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Sound proofing a door Signal Splitters (HW)
Old 5th October 2014
Here for the gear

I've got a 2x6 door jamb in my jam room -and I'm planning on putting double doors into. I have very heavy (175lbs each) commercial wood doors pulled from an high end office that are about 2 inches thick and my idea is to build a jam that would result in an air gap about 3" (the size of the handles) and a left and right hand door.

The room is double 5/8 drywall, green glue and RSic clips.

Can the door jam be one unit (about 7 inch deep) or should I fabricate 2 separate jams? I don't know if I should worry about isolating the jamb from the drywall or what is optimal.

Looking for best bang for my buck - equal to dd/gg/RISC assembly.

Old 5th October 2014
Lives for gear
Rod Gervais's Avatar

I would not bother with double jambs (in fact I would have some concerns about jambs that narrow supporting doors of that weight.

Personally I might not even bother with double doors in that wall assembly........ I doubt seriously that the 2nd door is going to gain you a whole lot of isolation over a single door with great seals.- the wall itself is probably going to end up the weak link.....

You could always install 1 door with seals & then check out the isolation levels - if adequate you're fine - if you find you want a wee bit more at the doors you could always add the 2nd one afterwards.

Old 5th October 2014
Here for the gear

Thanks for the quick info and great tips and great advice try one door first. My biggest concern was putting all this effort into the walls and ceiling only to have the door not isolate so I was planning double doors.

As an add on, how would 2 doors glued together (350 lbs and 4 inches thick) with a good seal compare against 2 separate doors on same wide jam as described. Would The bang for my buck be in seals at this point? It's almost sixes to me since it's labor due to the fact I already have the doors and hardware - 25 bucks Craigslist jackpot.

Drywall gets hung tomorrow!
Old 5th October 2014
Gear Head

Again Rod thank you for all your help with my build. I've finished framing and am set to install the door.

I'll post back when it's closer to being finished
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Sound proofing a door-img_20141005_111054_zpsyxv4onn5.jpg  
Old 5th October 2014
Gear Head

How effective/non effective is expansion foam when used to seal between the jamb and rough opening? I've read mixed reviews that say it works for isolation but really isn't dense enough.

And as you mentioned before Rod, to fill this area with backer rod and compressed insulation, if I cut small enough strips of Roxul SnS and put that in between with backer and caulk, would that suffice?
Old 6th October 2014
Lives for gear
Rod Gervais's Avatar

I don't see any issue with expansive foam as long as you can trim it back to allow for caulk....... I don't use it because it's pretty messy stuff to work with - but it does create a nice air seal.

As I said earlier - my best guess would be that your weak link is going to be the existing walls.............

Personally I would not screw around trying to put 2 doors together........

Look at it this way - you have existing walls - spaces outside of those walls - those walls have a single layer of drywall (most probably 1/2") directly attached to either faces of a wood framed assembly - which is probably 2x4 framing.

Those frames are directly attached to the structure connecting to spaces outside of that room.......

When all is said and done, the level of isolation you achieve is exactly as good as it's weakest link........ and those walls (along with that ceiling) are going to be the weak links....

If you took the best isolating doors in the entire world and installed them in those 2 openings you would (most probably) not increase the level of isolation you will achieve with a single solid core door in that new opening with good gaskets....

I see (however) another challenge for you as I look at that picture....... it doesn't look like you can get any drywall on the inside face of that door frame due to the location of those light switches.......

Personally I would have moved it to the other side of them and allowed enough room for a couple layers of drywall (that were clear of the cover plate.)

Old 6th October 2014
Gear Head

The switch box will be removed and filled with drywall, I will take down the ceiling fan/light and putting up my acoustic panels so it wont be used.

So you think I should put a couple layers of drywall on the inside face of the frame? Just caulk them together, or what?

How about the outside frame(in between new and old door)?

I thought for density I would fill the space between the jamb and rough opening with the Roxul, then spray a layer of the foam on either side with caulk on either sides of that, will that work or is that too much?
Old 6th October 2014
Gear Head

Please pardon me be so annoying with all of these questions along the way, I hope this thread will help others for their builds.

Anyway, I've put the insulation, and spray foam in between the jamb and rough opening and cut the excess. Rod, you were right, this stuff is messy!

Now its time to caulk. Do you caulk over the foam? or just around the door trim? I didn't mention it before but I decided to add trim. so just caulk that to the drywall and jamb?
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