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rubber cups to rest speaker stand spikes on? Dynamics Plugins
Old 30th December 2010
Gear Addict

rubber cups to rest speaker stand spikes on?

i've got speaker stands that come with spikes as optional accessory; they however aren't meant to rest on hardwood floors. seeing as the manufacturer themselves don't offer a tailored fix, i'm wondering if there is a common DIY / hack solution, eg. to have the spikes rest in some sort of a solid rubber (what exactly though? some puck with a hole in it? a squash ball...?)

cheers for any suggestions.
Old 30th December 2010
Gear Guru

I would replace the spikes with rubber feet. The things used to stop doors opening too far look like the right sort of size and stiffness.
I have seen plastic 'saucers' used to stop furniture legs scratching wooden floors also. I really don't like spikes. I replaced mine with round head bolts. As I have a carpet this slightly isolates my stand from the boomy concrete on insulation slab underneath.

Old 30th December 2010
Lives for gear
SörenHjalmarsson's Avatar

I though that to avoid transmittion, the support surface should be as small as possible (because of the fact that low tones can't be transmitted across a small surface). The spikes have a very small support surface, in order to mechanically isolate the stands and insure an acceptable acoustic separation.

So DanDan my man,

If you could choose between these two alternatives (see pictures), you would disregard the spikes? And if so... why? I mean, the support surface of the spikes would be a great deal smaller than that of the alternative...

Would love to hear you thoughts DD! Keep in touch...


EDIT: sorry about the bad photo quality
Attached Thumbnails
rubber cups to rest speaker stand spikes on?-img_0546.jpg   rubber cups to rest speaker stand spikes on?-img_0547.jpg  
Old 30th December 2010
Gear Guru
Swings and Roundabouts

Hi Soren, It's not that I have some secret information or theory, it's the opposite. I just don't know what these spikes achieve as a fact.

I don't know if Bass or other frequencies find it difficult to travel through a thin piece of steel or not.
Bass strings aren't that thick. Maybe there is an impedance change which might refuse some energy at the border?
However, a spike will become very intimate with a soft floor.
This seems like a better contact and I am guessing a better transmission.

Your flat feet provide a much bigger area of contact but unless they and the floor are perfectly flat and aligned, I bet the spikes provide a better contact and more transmission.

I just see contradictions and confusion here, thus my dislike for spikes.

Most of us want the option to move the speakers and don't want holes in our wood floor. Some manufacturers supply little metal cups to place under them. Placing these cups underneath, sliding around they fall off, then the finger gets punctured trying to put them on again. LOL

How about a round headed bolt or nut. That's what I use. Mine ones are about 8mm or so. A bit small so they would still make dents in wood, but fine on carpet. Stable but still slightly floating.
Larger ones would make less of an impression on the wood, if you could find them.

In your case I would buy or construct a rubber alternative.
I can't see how rubber would not be the best. The only drawback being wobbles if it is too soft.
Take a look at the expensive but IMHO ideal rubber feet at

Happy New Year, DD
Old 31st December 2010

Spikes do one thing for speaker cabinets - they get the bottom pannel off the floor and allow it to vibrate. Since the spike locations are fixed, it becomes pretty consistent, not determined by the type of floor that it's resting on.

Why you'd want a speaker panel to vibrate at all is beyond me. Sounding boards of instruments are another thing entirely.


Old 31st December 2010
Lives for gear
LeeYoo's Avatar

Hi tINY,

I always thought that spikes were used to stop the cabinet from moving/vibrating backwards and forewards due to the opposite movement of the bass driver.
Have seen a design once with two opposite side-firing woofers to stop this from happening.
Old 2nd January 2011
Gear Addict

reading a bit on the topic, there seems to be a great deal of challenging theories on the topic, from prosumers through to professionals. i for one have now decided to go the sand-filled stands + rubber route and leave the spikes in the closet.
Old 3rd January 2011
Lives for gear
Whether you believe in it or not, the audiophile thing to do is to have small metal disks on the floor that the spikes sit on. There are various fancy ones but most are basically a metal disk (metal of your choice) with some non marring bottom (felt, rubber, etc) and a shallow countersink or depression in the middle where the spike sits (more to center it for aesthetic reasons than anything else.

You could even use quarters if you wanted to. There's probably some audiophool out there who claims that original silver quarters sound better than the copper cored ones, silver being used in higher end wire and better instruments like flutes and trumpets.

One thing the spike feet do accomplish is to let you level things so the cabinet/stand is sitting firmly on the floor.

The idea is to have a solid point contact that the speaker is resting on. Depending on who you read, this either improves coupling to the floor making the cabinet less resonant, or decouples the cabinet from the floor so that it isn't affected by the resonance of the floor.

Where carpets are involved, the spike pokes though to the base, making the speaker less wobbly. This actually would seem to have some benefit where the cabinet was fixed and only the cone moved. Although the effectiveness of the Auralex isolators would support floating or decoupling the cabinet.

Let your ears be your guide.
Old 3rd January 2011
Lives for gear
PaulP's Avatar

Originally Posted by SörenHjalmarsson View Post
I though that to avoid transmittion, the support surface should be as small as possible (because of the fact that low tones can't be transmitted across a small surface). The spikes have a very small support surface, in order to mechanically isolate the stands and insure an acceptable acoustic separation.
I used to think this as well, but I've since been converted to the idea that
spikes are for better coupling, not isolation. The contact area is very small
and it seems like nothing could find it's way through, but the pressure is
immense (if the point were infinitely small, the pressure would be infinitely
high) so sound will easily pass, no matter what the frequency.
Old 3rd January 2011
Gear Guru

The 'ideal' rubber feet I mentioned at Towersonic are cones, i.e. rubber spikes.
I reckon this takes care of the different loads, as in they will squish down progressively.

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