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Door Frames?
Old 26th December 2010
  #1
Lives for gear
 

Door Frames?

Hey Gang....

So, preface: this will be my 3rd door install at my new location. For the first two, I went with double 1-3/4" doors screwed together mounted into a big-ass frame with two sets of seals for the 2 doors (inner door was cut down around the sides). This was a huge pain in the ass, and I've now realized that the thickness of the door wasn't the limiting factor, the seal is. To make matters worse, the double-door is so heavy that getting a consistent fit with the seals is difficult, as the weight of the door makes it hard to keep the frame aligned perfectly.

Rebuilding those doors ain't happening, and anyway the isolation I'm getting is acceptable, but for my 3rd door I want to be a little smarter.

I can't afford a pre-fab like the $5k overly doors - I know that's the best option.

My plan was to buy a pre-hung, 1-3/4" solid-core door to install into my concrete-block rough opening. I've attached a picture of the existing, hollow steel door (to be replaced). You'll notice a significant (1" in places) gap between the door-frame and the rough opening. My first question is: what's my best bet for filling that gap? It'll be covered up on both sides by the door trim, with caulk behind it, but I know this isn't enough. Great Stuff would be the obvious choice for insulation purposes, but I think the gap is too big for great stuff to be effective sound-isolation-wise. What about quickrete? Just fill in the whole gap with concrete once the door-frame is installed? Since the gap is so uneven, it'll be impossible to fill the gap with wood or other rigid material. (Although I could add an extra layer of 3/4" outside the pre-hung frame to make the gap smaller....).

For the pre-hung door, I will be adding 3/4" pieces with weatherstripping foam to provide a tight seal. I know about the GM K rubber, and I used it on my other doors, but it seems too rigid - it was hard to fit. Either the door needed way too much force to close, or the seal wasn't tight. The weather-stripping foam isn't hollow, and compresses more, so it was easier to get into a tight seal -more margin for error. (I used both types on the two seals of my doors).

I have Rod Gervais' book and have read his door chapter about 90 times. I will be using a lot of his tips for this new door, but I'm not sure what to do around the frame.

Thanks!
Attached Thumbnails
Door Frames?-img_0100.jpg   Door Frames?-img_0101.jpg  
Old 26th December 2010
  #2
Lives for gear
 

PS: Ahhh the majestic elegance of shoddy concrete block
Old 26th December 2010
  #3
Lives for gear
 

PPS: For one of the doors I have just a deadbolt installed, but the other one has a regular doorknob - I know this large hole in my door is a problem. What's a way around this for future reference, and for now, what can I do about the knob?

Contractor suggested taping the barrel and filling w/ great stuff (including the hollow knobs themselves). Will that work? What would be better? What do people usually use?
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