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Need advice with setting up new room treatment
Old 12th September 2020
  #1
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Need advice with setting up new room treatment

I moved into a new house and need to treat my workspace. I need some advice on the materials and how to deal with some problems (like windows). I'm hiring a carpenter to make these panels so I can make what I need. I will be adding in sets of panels over the next few months.

I'll be using this room to record vocals and mix. Image attached of rough layout of the room. Dimensions are 125.5"W x 98"H x 144.5"D. It's not a huge room but the proportions are close to a good room ratio (the depth of the room is shy a few inches). Right now I'm sitting in front of the window at around the 38% position.

1) I'm not sure how to treat the windows. They are not centered along the walls. Should an absorber be made to size to fill them besides placing absorbers in front of them?

2) For first reflections, I was considering stacking 2 2'x4'x4" 703 boards wrapped in Dacron and Fabric. I'm not sure how far off the wall they should be. I can easily place them 4" away from the wall, 8" might be tight with my gear rack, but it will fit.

3) The back right (behind listening position) is the entry door, so not sure how to handle bass absorption there. Back left has a double door closet. I suppose I could move them around to get in and out, though annoying. I will need to put absorbers back there as well, but not sure what size or thickness is needed.

4) For bass traps in the front corners of the room, I was thinking of doing 2'W x 7'H traps with 4" of 703 and 6-8" of Safe'n'Sound, straddled across the corner with a 12" air gap behind. Figure I can wrap in dacron and fabric and leave the backs open. Later I can add panels in the ceiling corners.

5) I'm not sure what materials to use for a cloud (if 703 + Rockwool is good). Thicker ones seem better and I want to control bass. I don't mind if the cloud hangs low. I can easily have an 8" tall trap 8" off the ceiling and still have plenty of room above me. Currently looking into doing some LED backlighting so I can control the color and keep the light bright enough but dim.

6) Also unsure what types of panels to put behind my desk, between the desk and the front wall. There's a little more than a foot of space.

7) For all panels, I'm not sure which wood would be best to keep the frames thin and plenty of space for air to get in while maintaining structural integrity. Maybe plywood? Carpenter thought pine would work for basic panels.

8) For fabric I'm leaning toward Camira Cara, even though it isn't cheap. I don't need fancy patterns, just a good quality, black acoustic fabric. Open to suggestions. I'd prefer not to use burlap as I don't like the look of it.

I figure the best route to go is to try and get the corner traps, first reflections and the cloud done, then do more. I'm no wizard with this stuff so open to suggestions.

I want to start getting these built asap, and the carpenter is ready to roll, so any advice you can lend will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Attached Thumbnails
Need advice with setting up new room treatment-room.jpg  
Old 16th September 2020
  #2
I wouldn't bother with thin panels, I think. Add as much treatment as you can to all walls except the floor and maybe the front wall and see what your room measures.

Edit: "As much treatment" may be around 30 cm deep. Plan to add another 10 or 20 cm to your treatment down the road.
Old 16th September 2020
  #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johannburkard View Post
I wouldn't bother with thin panels, I think. Add as much treatment as you can to all walls except the floor and maybe the front wall and see what your room measures.

Edit: "As much treatment" may be around 30 cm deep. Plan to add another 10 or 20 cm to your treatment down the road.
Are 8" (20.3 cm) panels considered thin for first reflection points? I could make them 12" (a little over 30cm) but then I will have to keep them closer to the wall and the extra material cost may mean I can't get panels for the front or back wall at first. Would adding a second layer of 703 or Rockwool be best—i.e. 8" of 703 with 4" Safe'n'Sound, or 4" 703 with 8" Safe'n'Sound?

Are 16" (40.6cm) bass traps not thick enough?

Since I can't afford to do the whole room at once, I need to try and keep the area around the listening position good enough to record vocals in and build out from there.

First reflection panels, front bass traps, a cloud and 2 panels on the back wall and the front wall seemed like a good starting point—to at least get things tamed and so I can get cleaner recordings. I can add more over time (possibly every month). If there's a better setup to build off of, please let me know.

Thanks
Old 17th September 2020
  #4
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.E View Post
Are 8" (20.3 cm) panels considered thin for first reflection points?
No, that should be in the bass trap territory which is a good idea to me because I wouldn't make a difference between bass traps and "first reflection" if I redid my room today and just use all bass traps everywhere.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.E View Post
Are 16" (40.6cm) bass traps not thick enough?
That depends on where your room modes are. In your room, probably in the 50 Hz region which is easier to treat than 40 and 30 Hz.

Maybe you can start with 20 cm, add strips of material and measure the differences every time.
Old 17th September 2020
  #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johannburkard View Post
No, that should be in the bass trap territory which is a good idea to me because I wouldn't make a difference between bass traps and "first reflection" if I redid my room today and just use all bass traps everywhere.
Okay. Budget depending, I'll try to make them 12", but they will be 8" at minimum.

Quote:
Originally Posted by johannburkard View Post
That depends on where your room modes are. In your room, probably in the 50 Hz region which is easier to treat than 40 and 30 Hz.
I still have to measure in here, but there is a large dip in the bass. I listened to one of my projects where there is heavy sub bass and I could barely hear it, so there must be a big null.
Old 17th September 2020
  #6
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.E View Post
Are 8" (20.3 cm) panels considered thin for first reflection points? I could make them 12" (a little over 30cm) but then I will have to keep them closer to the wall and the extra material cost may mean I can't get panels for the front or back wall at first. Would adding a second layer of 703 or Rockwool be best—i.e. 8" of 703 with 4" Safe'n'Sound, or 4" 703 with 8" Safe'n'Sound?

Are 16" (40.6cm) bass traps not thick enough?

Since I can't afford to do the whole room at once, I need to try and keep the area around the listening position good enough to record vocals in and build out from there.

First reflection panels, front bass traps, a cloud and 2 panels on the back wall and the front wall seemed like a good starting point—to at least get things tamed and so I can get cleaner recordings. I can add more over time (possibly every month). If there's a better setup to build off of, please let me know.

Thanks
8" of the right material with the right flow resistivity is fine for first reflection points. Instead of OC703 go with Rockboard 40.

But you should measure first, the room empty with no treatment, subwoofer on one end in bottom corner , mic on opposite side in top corner and middle of room ceiling to confirm modes against predicted modes.

Then measure at proposed locations(no desk, speakers on stands) analyze and the decide on course of treatment based on all analysis.
Old 17th September 2020
  #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thethrillfactor View Post
8" of the right material with the right flow resistivity is fine for first reflection points. Instead of OC703 go with Rockboard 40.

But you should measure first, the room empty with no treatment, subwoofer on one end in bottom corner , mic on opposite side in top corner and middle of room ceiling to confirm modes against predicted modes.

Then measure at proposed locations(no desk, speakers on stands) analyze and the decide on course of treatment based on all analysis.
I don't have a sub, just 2 8" near-field monitors.

For what it's worth, I did run a rough REW test this morning without removing anything from the room, doing sweeps at -20dBfs and whatever the default was (maybe -12?). Image is attached below. There is definitely a dip below 60Hz in here. I can hear it (or rather, not hear it) in playback with tracks that have sub bass.

I'm not sure if I even have enough room elsewhere to move everything out right now to test it. I'll make it happen though if it will make a big difference in the test results being useful.

(I was typing the following message when I saw the quoted reply)

I spent a while this morning using the Multi-Layer Porous Absorber calculator, punching in various arrangements for fluffy fiberglass (5000 Pa.s/m2) 703(16,000-24,000), AFB (18,000) and Rockboard 80 (53,000) and now my head just hurts. The 53k value seemed kinda high, but that's what I found.

Once I hit 12" thickness, the low density fluffy fiberglass seems to be outperforming every other combination I've tried with just a 4" air gap, across the entire frequency range, short of 20-30hz. I assume this is just for normal panels for the walls. Some posts on here said corner bass traps behave very differently.

At this point, I have a migraine and don't know what to do.

Should I be using 12" cheap fluffy fiberglass for the wall panels? Same for a cloud?

What would the right material(s) and stacking order be for making 16-20" corner straddling bass traps? I can't make them cubic and fill the corners because unfortunately the power outlets are near the corners and I can't move them as I'm renting this place.

I also came across some posts about rockwool off-gassing that can cause respiratory problems. If that's the case, I'll have to opt for something else that won't do this. I don't want to jeopardize my health or anyone else's.

P.S. One thing I will say is that I have much more respect for you guys who grasp this stuff and build rooms for a living. It gets confusing.
Attached Thumbnails
Need advice with setting up new room treatment-screen-shot-2020-09-17-6.37.45-am.jpg   Need advice with setting up new room treatment-screen-shot-2020-09-17-6.43.32-am.jpg  
Old 17th September 2020
  #8
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.E View Post
I don't have a sub, just 2 8" near-field monitors.

For what it's worth, I did run a rough REW test this morning without removing anything from the room, doing sweeps at -20dBfs and whatever the default was (maybe -12?). Image is attached below. There is definitely a dip below 60Hz in here. I can hear it (or rather, not hear it) in playback with tracks that have sub bass.

I'm not sure if I even have enough room elsewhere to move everything out right now to test it. I'll make it happen though if it will make a big difference in the test results being useful.

(I was typing the following message when I saw the quoted reply)

I spent a while this morning using the Multi-Layer Porous Absorber calculator, punching in various arrangements for fluffy fiberglass (5000 Pa.s/m2) 703(16,000-24,000), AFB (18,000) and Rockboard 80 (53,000) and now my head just hurts. The 53k value seemed kinda high, but that's what I found.

Once I hit 12" thickness, the low density fluffy fiberglass seems to be outperforming every other combination I've tried with just a 4" air gap, across the entire frequency range, short of 20-30hz. I assume this is just for normal panels for the walls. Some posts on here said corner bass traps behave very differently.

At this point, I have a migraine and don't know what to do.

Should I be using 12" cheap fluffy fiberglass for the wall panels? Same for a cloud?

What would the right material(s) and stacking order be for making 16-20" corner straddling bass traps? I can't make them cubic and fill the corners because unfortunately the power outlets are near the corners and I can't move them as I'm renting this place.

I also came across some posts about rockwool off-gassing that can cause respiratory problems. If that's the case, I'll have to opt for something else that won't do this. I don't want to jeopardize my health or anyone else's.

P.S. One thing I will say is that I have much more respect for you guys who grasp this stuff and build rooms for a living. It gets confusing.
First of all when using the acoustic modeling website, make sure when comparing its a zero degrees not random. For first reflection points the 703 formulation has changed over the years as well as its flow resistivity. Rockboard 40 at 14000 is your best for 8-12 inch panels. Its also easier to mount. If you plan using 12 inches of fluffy how can you mount it so it doesn't sag or compress? Also in terms of wood for frames, its easier to find a 1 x 10(9.25 depth) at any lumber yard, then to order something custom in order to fit deeper depths.

For the back and front walls, the depth needed is dependent on how active the first and second mode length are. If the 1-0-0 mode is really strong than a different course of action may be needed. That is why its good to confirm what the first axial modes are, especially if something tuned to those frequencies is needed.
Old 17th September 2020
  #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thethrillfactor View Post
First of all when using the acoustic modeling website, make sure when comparing its a zero degrees not random. For first reflection points the 703 formulation has changed over the years as well as its flow resistivity. Rockboard 40 at 14000 is your best for 8-12 inch panels. Its also easier to mount. If you plan using 12 inches of fluffy how can you mount it so it doesn't sag or compress? Also in terms of wood for frames, its easier to find a 1 x 10(9.25 depth) at any lumber yard, then to order something custom in order to fit deeper depths.

For the back and front walls, the depth needed is dependent on how active the first and second mode length are. If the 1-0-0 mode is really strong than a different course of action may be needed. That is why its good to confirm what the first axial modes are, especially if something tuned to those frequencies is needed.
Makes sense Re: the fluffy. I suppose that's why people lean toward the rigid boards most times—sacrifice a little but gain as well.

As for the wood frames, the carpenter will handle obtaining the wood. If it will cost a little more for wider pieces, I don't mind, especially if it will improve the room to have them thicker. I figured he would buy larger pieces and cut them to size. Is plywood good for these applications since it's strong, comes in larger sheets, and can be thinner than using a regular piece of wood? I think the carpenter suggested 1" pine initially, but I'm open to suggestions on type and thickness that will hold up over time.

To save a little cash on finishing the wood, the plan was to wrap the entire panel in Dacron to prevent any fibers escaping and then wrapping in acoustic fabric. Since I can't mount these to the wall now, they will have to be floor-standing. Not sure if I should still go the original route of wrapping and just have wood stands attached, or wrap the boards by themselves and stick that into a standing frame...

Re: the Rockboard 40, does that off-gas like the other Rockwool products? If so, I'd prefer to find an alternative that (hopefully) performs the same.

Thanks
Old 17th September 2020
  #10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.E View Post
Makes sense Re: the fluffy. I suppose that's why people lean toward the rigid boards most times—sacrifice a little but gain as well.

As for the wood frames, the carpenter will handle obtaining the wood. If it will cost a little more for wider pieces, I don't mind, especially if it will improve the room to have them thicker. I figured he would buy larger pieces and cut them to size. Is plywood good for these applications since it's strong, comes in larger sheets, and can be thinner than using a regular piece of wood? I think the carpenter suggested 1" pine initially, but I'm open to suggestions on type and thickness that will hold up over time.

To save a little cash on finishing the wood, the plan was to wrap the entire panel in Dacron to prevent any fibers escaping and then wrapping in acoustic fabric. Since I can't mount these to the wall now, they will have to be floor-standing. Not sure if I should still go the original route of wrapping and just have wood stands attached, or wrap the boards by themselves and stick that into a standing frame...

Re: the Rockboard 40, does that off-gas like the other Rockwool products? If so, I'd prefer to find an alternative that (hopefully) performs the same.

Thanks
You are talking about stands, but what if the whole wall needs treatment? You say you have a hole in your bass response around 60hz? If that is because of SBIR, you will need to treat every surface that is reflecting it and that is a huge 19ft wave that is touching pretty much everything. If your treatment is on stands it will bend around it like its not even there.
Old 17th September 2020
  #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thethrillfactor View Post
You are talking about stands, but what if the whole wall needs treatment? You say you have a hole in your bass response around 60hz? If that is because of SBIR, you will need to treat every surface that is reflecting it and that is a huge 19ft wave that is touching pretty much everything. If your treatment is on stands it will bend around it like its not even there.
Okay, so if it's on stands, what if instead it's all filled—i.e. the top is filled with 2'x4', the stand goes to the floor, and the bottom is filled with another 2'x2' and possibly angled as if you laid a panel across the seam of the floor and the wall.

As I said, treating the entire room is the goal, but I can't treat the entire room at first. I'm trying to setup the best initial setup I can build off of.
Old 17th September 2020
  #12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.E View Post
Okay, so if it's on stands, what if instead it's all filled—i.e. the top is filled with 2'x4', the stand goes to the floor, and the bottom is filled with another 2'x2' and possibly angled as if you laid a panel across the seam of the floor and the wall.

As I said, treating the entire room is the goal, but I can't treat the entire room at first. I'm trying to setup the best initial setup I can build off of.
All of this is just a thought exercise. Measure to see what the issues are and then decide on the appropriate treatment process to incur.

Post the REW MDAT afterwards and we can analyze to suggest a course of treatment. Then its up to you to decide if its possible to accomplish.
Old 17th September 2020
  #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thethrillfactor View Post
All of this is just a thought exercise. Measure to see what the issues are and then decide on the appropriate treatment process to incur.

Post the REW MDAT afterwards and we can analyze to suggest a course of treatment. Then its up to you to decide if its possible to accomplish.
Sounds like a plan. Thanks for the info.
Old 17th September 2020
  #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.E View Post
Okay, so if it's on stands, what if instead it's all filled—i.e. the top is filled with 2'x4', the stand goes to the floor, and the bottom is filled with another 2'x2' and possibly angled as if you laid a panel across the seam of the floor and the wall.

As I said, treating the entire room is the goal, but I can't treat the entire room at first. I'm trying to setup the best initial setup I can build off of.
By the time you build stands, and a bunch of individual panels, and wrap them all, you will probably find its cheaper, faster, and looks more "pro" if you just make a simple frame from 2x framing lumber and cover it with fabric. Less cutting, easier assembly.

You can staple 6" fluffy right to the wall or strapping, and make a 6" frame in front. You can also drape 6" fluffy over a "clothesline" running along the wall, giving you 12" of depth. Then you can use 1x2 or 2x3 in front to hold the fabric. You could put 1-2" rb40 in the frame for a clean semi resilient finish. You can mount some strapping at ceiling and floor, and put uprights where your fabric seams are, and cover the seams with a thin moulding or lattice.

In addition to being cheaper, easier, and looking clean, it gives you more lattitude to place the treatment. You can tune and test, then cover with fabric when done. You also dont have to paint those walls, saving more time and money.
Old 17th September 2020
  #15
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Originally Posted by Kyle P. Gushue View Post
By the time you build stands, and a bunch of individual panels, and wrap them all, you will probably find its cheaper, faster, and looks more "pro" if you just make a simple frame from 2x framing lumber and cover it with fabric. Less cutting, easier assembly.

You can staple 6" fluffy right to the wall or strapping, and make a 6" frame in front. You can also drape 6" fluffy over a "clothesline" running along the wall, giving you 12" of depth. Then you can use 1x2 or 2x3 in front to hold the fabric. You could put 1-2" rb40 in the frame for a clean semi resilient finish. You can mount some strapping at ceiling and floor, and put uprights where your fabric seams are, and cover the seams with a thin moulding or lattice.

In addition to being cheaper, easier, and looking clean, it gives you more lattitude to place the treatment. You can tune and test, then cover with fabric when done. You also dont have to paint those walls, saving more time and money.
Thanks for the ideas.

I can't staple, nail or bolt anything to the walls in here as per the owner of the house's demands, so I'm restricted from doing certain things that would make life easier. It's a long story, but the nutshell version is this place was a fallback choice and I'm renting it. I'll probably be here for a minimum of 1 year and need to make do, and can't do whatever I want. Hanging a cloud is probably the only thing I can do involving putting holes into a surface. Whatever it is for panels will need to be contained on all sides—and I have a young, inquisitive cat who would find his way into anything not well secured with nails or screws (or maybe titanium) and knock anything over that isn't built to prevent that.

If I do go with a type of simple, floor-standing "box" design a la framing wood—and that does make sense, short of if I can afford all of the materials needed at once to fill these structures, if you mean to do entire walls like that or make single tall panels—it will still need some kind of "feet" so it wouldn't easily tip from the aforementioned feline or an accidental bump—since I'm not allowed to secure things to these walls. Even corner traps will need to be raised slightly to allow for power cords, unless I leave a gap at the sides.

Unfortunately, as much as I love tinkering, I currently don't have the time or the means to experiment. What I need to do is figure out a simple, effective (and hopefully visually appealing) design that will allow for expansion and have this guy start building the key starting pieces so I can get my work done.
Old 17th September 2020
  #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.E View Post
Thanks for the ideas.

I can't staple, nail or bolt anything to the walls in here as per the owner of the house's demands, so I'm restricted from doing certain things that would make life easier. It's a long story, but the nutshell version is this place was a fallback choice and I'm renting it. I'll probably be here for a minimum of 1 year and need to make do, and can't do whatever I want. Hanging a cloud is probably the only thing I can do involving putting holes into a surface. Whatever it is for panels will need to be contained on all sides—and I have a young, inquisitive cat who would find his way into anything not well secured with nails or screws (or maybe titanium) and knock anything over that isn't built to prevent that.

If I do go with a type of simple, floor-standing "box" design a la framing wood—and that does make sense, short of if I can afford all of the materials needed at once to fill these structures, if you mean to do entire walls like that or make single tall panels—it will still need some kind of "feet" so it wouldn't easily tip from the aforementioned feline or an accidental bump—since I'm not allowed to secure things to these walls. Even corner traps will need to be raised slightly to allow for power cords, unless I leave a gap at the sides.

Unfortunately, as much as I love tinkering, I currently don't have the time or the means to experiment. What I need to do is figure out a simple, effective (and hopefully visually appealing) design that will allow for expansion and have this guy start building the key starting pieces so I can get my work done.
I understand the compromises. It sounds like what your looking for is a gobo, a freestanding panel. If you used 1x12, 2x12, it would be pretty easy to make, and you could staple the insulation to the frame to keep it in place. The downside of fluffy is it can look "pillowy" so you may want to use some wire or mesh to make sure the finish looks neat.
Old 18th September 2020
  #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle P. Gushue View Post
I understand the compromises. It sounds like what your looking for is a gobo, a freestanding panel. If you used 1x12, 2x12, it would be pretty easy to make, and you could staple the insulation to the frame to keep it in place. The downside of fluffy is it can look "pillowy" so you may want to use some wire or mesh to make sure the finish looks neat.
Yes, Gobos. Apologies as my recent sleep deprivation is probably not helping me explain things. The reason for 2'x4' is budget, but if they will suck I'd rather make them as tall as the corner traps and make fewer at first. I was hoping that 2x4's for reflections (with tall corner traps, cloud, etc) would provide a good enough small area to get cleaner recordings and do some mixing and do everything near the listening position (2 birds with one stone) and then add sets of more panels each month. I can get things to translate decently given the complete lack of anything now—either by miracle or just because I know my gear—but I hear the problems in the mixes and in the room that I can't work around.

So yeah, beefy gobos. They won't fix every peak and null but it seems like it would have to help a hell of a lot more than no treatment at all. If this is not the case, then I'm obviously missing something about how this all works.

The idea of lumpy panels isn't appealing, which is why I was exploring mixing materials... so maybe a compromise would work as thethrillfactor said—using stuff a little more dense that is easier to work with that will still produce good results, even if not the best on earth. I did come across one thread a little while ago where someone used very thin plywood with fluffy in a creative way to make it not collapse. I just have no experience building things so it's hard to design the structure to allow the most airflow while remaining structurally sound and in a way where the material will stay put. I have mocked up some that seem practical, but have to speak to the carpenter. My initial designs he said were good and he could tweak them.

Bottom line, I can't make this stuff here and I don't know what works from lack of hands-on experience, so I'm reading like crazy, trying to sift through all the varied opinions, asking you guys and hiring someone to build—but I still need to tell them what I need, so they can give me the budget for their end and build it. He's not daft and makes suggestions, but I'm not paying him to design the panels, so I have to provide the majority of the specs.

For now I just need a best starting point solution given this less than ideal situation and I'll keep adding panels as the months go on until I leave here and find a place I can make proper. I use a dynamic mic, and I think that I'll be able to get some decent recordings if the panels are setup right.

And with that, I need to sleep. It's been about a day and a half. I do appreciate all the suggestions from everyone. Thanks for your time.
Old 18th September 2020
  #18
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.E View Post
Thanks for the ideas.

I can't staple, nail or bolt anything to the walls in here as per the owner of the house's demands, so I'm restricted from doing certain things that would make life easier. It's a long story, but the nutshell version is this place was a fallback choice and I'm renting it. I'll probably be here for a minimum of 1 year and need to make do, and can't do whatever I want. Hanging a cloud is probably the only thing I can do involving putting holes into a surface. Whatever it is for panels will need to be contained on all sides—and I have a young, inquisitive cat who would find his way into anything not well secured with nails or screws (or maybe titanium) and knock anything over that isn't built to prevent that.

If I do go with a type of simple, floor-standing "box" design a la framing wood—and that does make sense, short of if I can afford all of the materials needed at once to fill these structures, if you mean to do entire walls like that or make single tall panels—it will still need some kind of "feet" so it wouldn't easily tip from the aforementioned feline or an accidental bump—since I'm not allowed to secure things to these walls. Even corner traps will need to be raised slightly to allow for power cords, unless I leave a gap at the sides.

Unfortunately, as much as I love tinkering, I currently don't have the time or the means to experiment. What I need to do is figure out a simple, effective (and hopefully visually appealing) design that will allow for expansion and have this guy start building the key starting pieces so I can get my work done.
If you are only there for a year and only renting then it isn't worth it to go all out for treatment. Its a waste of money as you can't take it with you.

You are better off just finding the best speaker and listening location, maybe some minimum phase Eq for modal peaks below 115hz and just deal with it by using a bunch of different reference checks in and out of studio.
Old 18th September 2020
  #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thethrillfactor View Post
If you are only there for a year and only renting then it isn't worth it to go all out for treatment. Its a waste of money as you can't take it with you.

You are better off just finding the best speaker and listening location, maybe some minimum phase Eq for modal peaks below 115hz and just deal with it by using a bunch of different reference checks in and out of studio.
Yeah, that's why I was hoping doing it gobo style would at least make it better.

What would you do about recording vocals?
Old 18th September 2020
  #20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.E View Post

What would you do about recording vocals?
Book time in a studio specifically built for recording with a wide mic choices.

Its good in 2 ways:

1) You will get the best capture of your vocal tracks which will mean less processing down the line

2) You support local businesses which need it and that will bring good karma all around.
Old 18th September 2020
  #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thethrillfactor View Post
Book time in a studio specifically built for recording with a wide mic choices.

Its good in 2 ways:

1) You will get the best capture of your vocal tracks which will mean less processing down the line

2) You support local businesses which need it and that will bring good karma all around.
I agree, to an extent. Cutting rough vocals are fine for my songs, and I do that here, as anything I need to do in a studio will be recorded there. I already made preliminary arrangements at one of the best and budgeted for that (in another city where the studios are top notch) with an amazing engineer and musicians etc.

For this project, I need to record here and it needs to be pretty dry and is unrelated.

I was looking into some acoustic blankets this morning. Rigging those up might provide enough for now to tame my voice and keep the cost down until I can get into a more permanent place where I can setup proper treatment. Obviously this won't do a lot for mixing, but I need the recordings to be better more than anything. I'm not recording ballads and won't be screaming into the mic, so it may suffice. If it works, I'll probably throw in some traps for the hell of it in the coming months as well.

In any case, I will have to make a decision by Monday and move forward as time is ticking.
Old 18th September 2020
  #22
Lives for gear
 
Kyle P. Gushue's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.E View Post
I agree, to an extent. Cutting rough vocals are fine for my songs, and I do that here, as anything I need to do in a studio will be recorded there. I already made preliminary arrangements at one of the best and budgeted for that (in another city where the studios are top notch) with an amazing engineer and musicians etc.

For this project, I need to record here and it needs to be pretty dry and is unrelated.

I was looking into some acoustic blankets this morning. Rigging those up might provide enough for now to tame my voice and keep the cost down until I can get into a more permanent place where I can setup proper treatment. Obviously this won't do a lot for mixing, but I need the recordings to be better more than anything. I'm not recording ballads and won't be screaming into the mic, so it may suffice. If it works, I'll probably throw in some traps for the hell of it in the coming months as well.

In any case, I will have to make a decision by Monday and move forward as time is ticking.
I wouldn't pay a premium for "acoustic blankets". Typical moving blankets and theater curtains have been used in studios for a long time.
Old 18th September 2020
  #23
Gear Head
 
Mr.E's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle P. Gushue View Post
I wouldn't pay a premium for "acoustic blankets". Typical moving blankets and theater curtains have been used in studios for a long time.
I'm checking out all of that stuff.

Edit: I actually got the idea from a moving blanket I wrapped one of my keyboards in.
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