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Hard flush-mounting speakers - how to do correct?
Old 4 weeks ago
  #1
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Hard flush-mounting speakers - how to do correct?

I want to build a Newell control room with a hard front and flush-mounted monitors. I have Newell's book "Recording Studio Design," but he didn't go into detail about how to mount the speakers.

Do they need to be mounted inside a box with a sealed back? Or can I simply mount them on an open back structure and line up the face of the speaker with the face of the front wall?

I want to install ATC SCM25A monitors or similar. I want to take full advantage of the LF extension provided by hard flush-mounting, and these monitors need good ventilation.

Last edited by chrismeraz; 4 weeks ago at 06:21 PM..
Old 4 weeks ago
  #2
There are a few good threads here and at the Sayers forum on this. But ultimately I found them to pose more questions than answers. Eventually the answer comes around to being that it depends. Since flush mounting makes the speakers an integral part of the room (even more than they were already), the whole design comes into play. That makes the answer a difficult one. I've seen lots of advice suggesting that it's way easier to do this wrong, than right. In the sense that altering entire walls in order to tweak your speaker position will drive a person insane. So you have to design everything just right, ahead of time.

Sorry I know that's not very helpful. I'm going through this process myself, although I'm more interested in a soft flush mount. More than likely if don't get a professional designer, I will end up going with stands.
Old 4 weeks ago
  #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrismeraz View Post
I want to build a Newell control room with a hard front and flush-mounted monitors. I have Newell's book "Recording Studio Design," but he didn't go into detail about how to mount the speakers.

Do they need to be mounted inside a box with a sealed back? Or can I simply mount them on an open back structure and line up the face of the speaker with the face of the front wall?

I want to install ATC SCM25A monitors or similar. I want to take full advantage of the LF extension provided by hard flush-mounting, and these monitors need good ventilation.
Don't believe everything Newell says or doesn't say and beware of the things other people say to interpret Newell.
The baffle is to prevent sound bending around the speaker and causing reflections out of phase with the direct sound. That's all. You can research the effect using stiff cardboard and do some measurements.
That monitor you use seems to have a reflex opening at the side. That could cause a problem.
If the reflex is at the front it either works or you can stuff it.
Old 4 weeks ago
  #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bert stoltenborg View Post
The baffle is to prevent sound bending around the speaker and causing reflections out of phase with the direct sound.
Yes, that's exactly what I want. I don't understand however if the speaker has to be mounted inside a box that is sealed to the rear in order to get this effect. How is it usually done in a Newell design?

Quote:
Originally Posted by bert stoltenborg View Post
That monitor you use seems to have a reflex opening at the side. That could cause a problem.
Yes, ATC say it is designed for flush mounting with the provided port plug.
Old 4 weeks ago
  #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrismeraz View Post
Yes, that's exactly what I want. I don't understand however if the speaker has to be mounted inside a box that is sealed to the rear in order to get this effect. How is it usually done in a Newell design?



Yes, ATC say it is designed for flush mounting with the provided port plug.
Plug the port then and youre good to go there.

Ideally, you want a very massive front baffle, and a completely decoupled monitor.

The Fc of your springs or whatever you used, should be one octave lower than the lowest frequency your speakers put out. The baffle should also be massive enough to have a resonant frequency around 10hz or lower.

If your monitors are active, you must either remove the amps and add an extension cable to a ventillated area OR provide ventillation behind the monitors.

The monitor does not have to be in a box to work, but it makes securing the speaker easier than screwing into the cabinet. On my speakers, the manufacturer recommended something like a 1 inch gap all around the monitor when flush mounting, and i left the back open to allow for ventillation. I used sorbothane bumpers to "decouple" my monitors. Im not sure what the Fc is, but the monitors are crossed over at around 100hz, which helps, but all in all my room measures well. The manual for your speakers should have requirements or you can email them and ask for tips.
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Old 4 weeks ago
  #6
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Thanks Jason.

How did you attach the grey surround trim to the white front wall in a way that is solid but easily removable? Just plain screws into wood?
Old 4 weeks ago
  #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrismeraz View Post
Thanks Jason.

How did you attach the grey surround trim to the white front wall in a way that is solid but easily removable? Just plain screws into wood?
Steel threaded inserts so the bolts can be removed without ruining the holes
https://www.rockler.com/steel-thread...ts-select-size
Old 4 weeks ago
  #8
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Thanks! I'll do an open back system, with a surround trim just like yours. However, I'll build a solid brick stand that sits on the floor rather than installing the monitor on a cabinet attached to the baffle.
Old 4 weeks ago
  #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrismeraz View Post
Thanks! I'll do an open back system, with a surround trim just like yours. However, I'll build a solid brick stand that sits on the floor rather than installing the monitor on a cabinet attached to the baffle.
Awesome, good luck, and keep us updated please!
Old 3 weeks ago
  #10
Old 5 days ago
  #11
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Still in the design and budgeting phase... it'll be a few months before all that is approved (or disapproved)!
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