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Soundproofing a basement studio Effects Pedals, Units & Accessories
Old 16th April 2018
  #31
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Originally Posted by Jason Foi View Post
Minisplit cools the existing air, no fresh air is introduced.
Are you sure about this. Check this link out.

John Sayers' Recording Studio Design Forum •

View topic - Humidity controlling air conditioner and fresh air
Old 16th April 2018
  #32
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Originally Posted by attaboy_jhb View Post
I am not having a floating floor. Also there is this material that is generally used so that the steel doesn't touch the floor or ceiling directly
Should work fairly well with glue, and your plan for the ceiling?
Old 16th April 2018
  #33
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Originally Posted by attaboy_jhb View Post
Thanks but I am not looking for advice on everything. I am adding exactly 2 sheets of drywall to the inside of a room to help with soundproofing my space. It doesn't matter what the space is for, mixing mastering or meditating. It also doesn't matter what kind of music and if there is a train station, well the sound will have two more sheets of drywall to go through That is it. Just looking for the best way to use this material in my room to help with soundproofing.

I don't want to be too hardcore about this. If I said to you my budget allows for 2 X sheets of inner drywall in that space, how can we use it for best results.

Hope this helps you help me
No problem. You are not hardcore at all. I hope you get the advice you are seeking and your space gives you what you need. I am sure you will be able to accomplish your goals via this community. Out.
Old 16th April 2018
  #34
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Originally Posted by attaboy_jhb View Post
The link to the product was from 2011 and no longer functions, but it will still require a return and supply opening. My point was that you need to supply fresh air to your room at appropriate cfm for exchange every 20min or so. This is a weak point in isolation and needs accounting for. Tbh i dont know if you need full blown isolation for personal use. Will you record all day every day? Are your kids home all day? Can they just not make noise while you record?
Old 16th April 2018
  #35
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Check out resilient channel on isolation clips.

NOISEPROOFING CLIPS | Green Glue
Old 17th April 2018
  #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Foi View Post
Check out resilient channel on isolation clips.

NOISEPROOFING CLIPS | Green Glue
Thanks, they look nice. I am going to be using only locally sold Spanish materials because I am on a tight budget and the materials used here do work so I am confident in that.
Old 17th April 2018
  #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Foi View Post
The link to the product was from 2011 and no longer functions, but it will still require a return and supply opening. My point was that you need to supply fresh air to your room at appropriate cfm for exchange every 20min or so. This is a weak point in isolation and needs accounting for. Tbh i dont know if you need full blown isolation for personal use. Will you record all day every day? Are your kids home all day? Can they just not make noise while you record?
It is impossible for my children to not make a noise for anything

I am not looking for full blown isolation. Just an improvement. I have budget for 2 sheets of drywall on the interior of the room. So that is what I have and need to use it in the best possible way. I am not buying green glue or any other thing that is going to give me a few db extra of isolation becuase I don't need that.

I am going to go with what Starlight said. Do what is in my 1st drawing and make sure the drywall doesn't touch the perimeter. I will then caulk like crazy and use the neoprene strips as Dan said between the framing and the concrete boundries.

The HVAC side of it is still gnawing at me though. Ok So a normal domestic split system won't work right? No way? So is there a name for a specific kind of air conditioner that I need to investigate? Also, I am pretty sure the HVAC supply and return can run in the wall instead of the ceiling right? That way I won't lose ceiling height which is my number one objective.
Old 17th April 2018
  #38
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Originally Posted by attaboy_jhb View Post
Also, I am pretty sure the HVAC supply and return can run in the wall instead of the ceiling right? That way I won't lose ceiling height which is my number one objective.
As far as I know, Yes. I have two homes and both have the returns in the walls and one has the vents in the floor and one has them in the ceiling. Placing the vents in the walls should not matter as far as air flow.

If the basement already has vents, then your HVAC should be just fine as that space was calculated into the design of your HVAC system. If your basement does not have any vents or returns, then you may need to look into an alternative method.
Old 17th April 2018
  #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by attaboy_jhb View Post
It is impossible for my children to not make a noise for anything

I am not looking for full blown isolation. Just an improvement. I have budget for 2 sheets of drywall on the interior of the room. So that is what I have and need to use it in the best possible way. I am not buying green glue or any other thing that is going to give me a few db extra of isolation becuase I don't need that.

I am going to go with what Starlight said. Do what is in my 1st drawing and make sure the drywall doesn't touch the perimeter. I will then caulk like crazy and use the neoprene strips as Dan said between the framing and the concrete boundries.

The HVAC side of it is still gnawing at me though. Ok So a normal domestic split system won't work right? No way? So is there a name for a specific kind of air conditioner that I need to investigate? Also, I am pretty sure the HVAC supply and return can run in the wall instead of the ceiling right? That way I won't lose ceiling height which is my number one objective.
Yeah it can run in the wall. You need something with a fresh air intake.
Old 17th April 2018
  #40
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Starlight's Avatar


Because a mini-split does not introduce nor remove any air the pipes are small enough to fit inside a conduit of approx. 8 x 4 cm as you can see on the left of my mini-split in the photo.

Think of a mini-split as a refrigerator - in the cooling mode hot coolant gets fed to the outside unit (hence the name split) which cools it and returns the cooled coolant to the indoor unit. That uses two thin bore copper pipes. The third is the water drain pipe which needs to run downhill (as it is powered by gravity) to a place where it can be disposed of. In my case the mains lead also ran in the conduit until it was ready to exit and head south to the nearest mains supply.

The indoor unit simply sucks air in the top, cools, heats or dehumidifies it and pumps the now conditioned air back into the room - no fresh air, just conditioned existing air.

Last edited by Starlight; 18th April 2018 at 08:19 AM.. Reason: Grammar
Old 17th April 2018
  #41
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@Starlight , Is it proper to ask the cost of your mini-split unit? In the US, they run about $500 to $1,000 depending on your space.
Old 17th April 2018
  #42
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Dana, you can always ask but that doesn't guarantee an answer!

The 3.5kw Mitsubishi mini-split system comprising the indoor unit, MSZ-SF35VE, and the outdoor unit, MUZ-SF35VE, were 950 Euros in 2015. Delivery, installation and parts, eg. cables, pipes, coolant, conduit were extra.

If it interests you, the photo is from my studio set up, started 3 years ago, here: 2nd room in Slovakia. Look at reply no. 22 for photos of the installation of the AC and the ventilator.
Old 17th April 2018
  #43
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Originally Posted by Starlight View Post
Dana, you can always ask but that doesn't guarantee an answer!

The 3.5kw Mitsubishi mini-split system comprising the indoor unit, MSZ-SF35VE, and the outdoor unit, MUZ-SF35VE, were 950 Euros in 2015. Delivery, installation and parts, eg. cables, pipes, coolant, conduit were extra.

If it interests you, the photo is from my studio set up, started 3 years ago, here: 2nd room in Slovakia. Look at reply no. 22 for photos of the installation of the AC and the ventilator.
It interested me very much Sir. What a wealth of information as well as some free education on the link you provided. I will not assume that the misses is happy with your decision, rather state that she must be elated with your expertise while bringing this project into reality. Very well done to all involved and I am sure you are proud of your accomplishment, as you should be.

As far as the price for the split unit, it seems that regardless of which side of the pond you are on, the prices seem to be very close. Thanks for the info.

Last edited by Dana_T.; 17th April 2018 at 08:54 PM.. Reason: Added space for thumbs up.
Old 19th April 2018
  #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Foi View Post
Check out resilient channel on isolation clips.

NOISEPROOFING CLIPS | Green Glue
I don't think I mentioned this but access to the basement is via a drive way that goes to an underground level. Several neighbours use this driveway so you can hear cars drive by in the basement. Do you think that this will make having a floating floor necessary too? What happens if I just do the walls and ceiling and not do the floor?
Old 19th April 2018
  #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by attaboy_jhb View Post
What happens if I just do the walls and ceiling and not do the floor?
Depending on the size of the traffic, you may get some low frequencies coming in via vibrations. A floating floor is extremely expensive.

Quote:
To be brutally honest, we didn't opt to build a floating floor because of cost. My budget was a modest £25,000, a fully floating floor system built from scratch would have been one expense too many. Instead, we chose to take inspiration from the floating floor concept by using a rubber material on top of the original floor with a layer of TECSOUND beneath.
View the article here.
Old 19th April 2018
  #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by attaboy_jhb View Post
I don't think I mentioned this but access to the basement is via a drive way that goes to an underground level. Several neighbours use this driveway so you can hear cars drive by in the basement. Do you think that this will make having a floating floor necessary too? What happens if I just do the walls and ceiling and not do the floor?
Possibly a problem. Impact noise travels very well through concrete. I highly doubt that the driveway and basement were the same pour though. Look for an expansion joint in front of the garage door
Old 20th April 2018
  #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Foi View Post
Possibly a problem. Impact noise travels very well through concrete. I highly doubt that the driveway and basement were the same pour though. Look for an expansion joint in front of the garage door
ok, will check although it is paved so not sure if it will be visible...I haven't noticed but must admit that I haven't looked hard either

I guess the question is, will soundproofing the walls and ceiling still benefit me if I don't do the floor?
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