Allow me to add my experience to this thread.
I had been mixing on Yamaha HS7s since 2014, and always noticed an awful 200Hz hump whenever bringing the mix elsewhere.
I learned to compensate for that, and my instrumentals started coming together nicely, though the mids were tough to dial in.
I recently began mixing vocals again and just could not get things right with the HS7s and my room.
I have 8010s that I love, and thought the 8040 would be a good step forward.
Then I read this thread...
So, I wound up getting a NOS set of 1030A, and a 7060B sub-woofer.
I also got a set of 8040B to audition.
I set up the 1030As (sans-sub, no dip-switches engaged) and listened through the problem mix.
They showed me each and every issue I heard on other systems outside the studio all at once.
After taming, tucking, and smoothing, everything fell into place -a perfect car listen.
Then I plugged in the 8040s, which my reference material sounded heavenly on.
When I put my problem mix on those, everything was in a "mist"...
The problems were there, but... where? I couldn't get an exact cue.
I tried to mix on them anyway, but in the car, problems remained.
So, I kept the 1030A mix, and put up the 8040s to master the next day.
Now that was a treat -all I had to do was get the song sounding beautiful, and it translated perfectly.
So, in my experience, 1030A are great tools for mixing individual parts together, 8040 is for finishing.
Could you use the dip-switches on the 8040 to make them sound like the 1030A when needed?
NO. A resounding, "no".
So for me the 8040 just makes everything seem more glued together, like a cake that's been baked.
1030A shows you the individual ingredients along with the mess in the kitchen.
I plan to use
both in the way I described.
2 mixes and 9 masters so far, and I get a smile on my face on each listen, across every platform.
Adding the sub is the cherry on top, but you can do great things without it, if you aren't into bottom-heavy music.
-Adam.