The No.1 Website for Pro Audio
 Search This Thread  Search This Forum  Search Reviews  Search Gear Database  Search Gear for sale  Search Gearslutz Go Advanced
Redco TT/DB25 96pt Patchbay? Digital Converters
Old 16th August 2007
  #1
Redco TT/DB25 96pt Patchbay?

Hi guys,

I finally decided, as I have collected some outboard to play with, to get a patchbay.
Now I wont cope with all the soldering ****, cause I am a total idiot as it comes to tech stuff. So I came across this redco thing. Has anybody used it? Is it worth the 500$ price tag?

Also- this is my first patchbay so please advice guys in few things:

1) Will 10 bantam connectors suffice? I have three synths (Monomachine, Machinedrum and Virus C) which will have its two inputs and two outputs each, stereo comp (Drawmer 1968), MC77, and will add two more comps soon). I interface thru FF800.

2) Will this purchase make sense? I mean- with all the cables (4x db25 --- jack, 1x db25--XLR, 10 bantams) this will be approx. 1000$ - is it worth it?

Cheers

Marty
Old 19th August 2007
  #2
Gear Nut
 
chrisredco's Avatar
 

Hope my response doesn't come across too biased, but regardless of whether you get our TT/Dsub bay or another brand, they are very convenient as far as re-configuring in the future or making changes as opposed to a solder bay or a EDAC/DL multipin bay.

I would advise at least 8-10 TT cable to start, depending on if you will be utilizing normalling in your patchbay configuration.

All that being said, I hope you decide to go with the Redco bay!

Feel free to contact me anytime with questions about your setup.

Thanks,
Chris Stubbs
Redco Audio
800-572-7280
Old 19th August 2007
  #3
Lives for gear
Redco makes very good stuff....we have quite a bit of it floating around.

I recently added an Elco terminated bay to our existant bay. Its not Redco, (Ebay deal, ADC), but i;m sure theirs is fine. Elco bays make a lot of sense flexibility wise and I highly recommend them.

If you need to mix and match normals, you might want to look at the new Switchcraft product, but if not the Redco sould do fine.

If you don't mind EBay....I see lots of bantam cables up there for good deals.
Old 20th August 2007
  #4
Lives for gear
 
Daedalus77's Avatar
I'm looking at a 96-point bay with DB25 connectors myself—both the Redco and the Audio Accessories (Mini-Short Quick-Switch DB 25).

Not to hijack the thread, but a related question: I'm attracted to the ease of normalling options of the Audio Accessories model, but I'm admittedly not sure what to make of the various grounding options (Grounds Vertically Strapped vs. Grounds Bussed). I understand the difference (i think), but I'm not sure the practical implications of each option—or whether I should be concerned about it.

Like the original poster, I'll be using the bay with a host of outboard compressors and EQs and as a means of patching inputs and outputs on a Rosetta 800.

What's the appropriate grounding scenario for such applications, then? Or can I simply patch everything up and go?

Many thanks.
Old 20th August 2007
  #5
Lives for gear
 
Mike O's Avatar
 

I've got 5 of the Audio Accessory DB25/TT patch bays (from Redco). Great stuff. PBs ARE worth it. Very cool to be able to change normally, etc.

Only you can decide if that is the place to put your money. Perhaps you have done so, but if not, you might consider writing down exactly how you will patch your gear before you buy. This should help you.
Old 20th August 2007
  #6
Lives for gear
 
Daedalus77's Avatar
Anyone on the grounding set-up?
Old 20th August 2007
  #7
jho
Lives for gear
 
jho's Avatar
 

I got my bantam bays from Redco along with the D subs etc. (Sygnex Isopatch Bantam Pro's) Great co. and good folks. Chris I think is one of the guys there that usually answers the phone.

We didn't do any particular grounding on mine (we have 2) that I know of. All the gear is grounded of course. We normalized the studio snakes etc to the pres for convenience, some of the outputs of the pres to the in's of the 192s, and some of the the outputs of the 192's to the console and hearback system. Of course easy to bypass by patching. The EQ's and Comps are non-normaled.

They sell the Mogami patch cables for pretty cheap. You should probably have them make up some XLR to TT patch cables too for when you want to record from within the control room.
Old 20th August 2007
  #8
Thanks for all Your replies- I think I will go for it- the only thing I dont get is the normalling thing- Well I know there are some different options for different equipment (normalled,half normalled etc) right? - so what's the difference between the redco and audio accesories unit? Can't I switch the normalling modes on Redco? Whats the deal with „ease of normalling options of the Audio Accessories model” as Deadalus stated before?

Also- jho- why would I need an XLR to bantam cables for? I did not get this one- maybe cause its Monday ;-)

and the last thing- does any of You have any link where I can obtain some detailed info about the normalling options? I definitely need to learn more about this stuff cause I have no clue which mode is appropriate for which appliction... not to mention the grounding stuff.

Cheers

Marty
Old 20th August 2007
  #9
jho
Lives for gear
 
jho's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by vibralux View Post
Thanks for all Your replies- I think I will go for it- the only thing I dont get is the normalling thing- Well I know there are some different options for different equipment (normalled,half normalled etc) right? - so what's the difference between the redco and audio accesories unit? Can't I switch the normalling modes on Redco? Whats the deal with „ease of normalling options of the Audio Accessories model” as Deadalus stated before?

Also- jho- why would I need an XLR to bantam cables for? I did not get this one- maybe cause its Monday ;-)

and the last thing- does any of You have any link where I can obtain some detailed info about the normalling options? I definitely need to learn more about this stuff cause I have no clue which mode is appropriate for which appliction... not to mention the grounding stuff.

Cheers

Marty
I'm sure you will get some more technical responses to your questions, but basically when you normal a channel on your patchbay, they are connected so that signal flows through from top to bottom. (at least that's the way mine is setup). So I can have the studio snake 1-16 coming to the top 16 channels of the patch bay, and the row just below that going to the inputs of the mic pres. So with no patch cables inserted, I'm ready to record. You can cross patch that if you want to, i.e. put a patch cable coming from the top row channel 1 over to a different mic pre in my case etc so you still have that flexibility. SO basically you normal stuff that you want to be normally connected to each other.

As far as changing it from normal to non-normal etc on the top of these units there is a solder connection that you interrupt or connect.

It's really pretty simple and there are lots of threads and such out there that could help you find your way on it.

Oh and the XLR to TT plug... that's so if I'm sitting in the control room I can plug a microphone or other XLR device directly into the front of the patch bay. Let's say I'm working on my own stuff, no assistant in sight and I want to record a vocal or a voiceover etc. I can plug a mic right into the front of the patchbay directly into a mic pre without having to plug into the snake in the other rooom or reach around back of the rack. Does that make sense?
Old 20th August 2007
  #10
Cool- I think I understand it know. Thanks. And the XLR to TT cables- now I got it. I am definitely in this kind of situation- self recording freak ;-) I just have to watch out for the Phantom power? It flows thru the bay right? So I dont want to patch my synths out to GR NV1 input with phantom enabled, right? Any tips on that one?

Marty
Old 20th August 2007
  #11
jho
Lives for gear
 
jho's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by vibralux View Post
Cool- I think I understand it know. Thanks. And the XLR to TT cables- now I got it. I am definitely in this kind of situation- self recording freak ;-) I just have to watch out for the Phantom power? It flows thru the bay right? So I dont want to patch my synths out to GR NV1 input with phantom enabled, right? Any tips on that one?

Marty
Yeah the phantom with go there, but you don't want to patch the synths directly into the microphone pres because of impedance. (-10 / +4) . If your mic pre's have a line input on the back, you can bring those inputs to the patch bay and then yes you could normal the keys to them.

I don't have my keyboards on the patch bay. What I do is I plug the synths into my studio snake which also has 1/4 plugs... the snake is all on the patchbay... then I come out of the bay (from where the 1/4 inch snake line terminates to the bay) with a 3 foot TT to 1/4 cable (i have those also) and then into the front panel DI input of the pres (yeah not as pretty but works) direct inputs. So... keyboard->snake 1/4-> patchbay->out of bay with TT to 1/4 cable, over across the rack to the DI input of my API 3124, etc.
Old 30th August 2007
  #12
Gear Addict
 
SHIRK's Avatar
Signex Isopatch Bantam = CRAP!

I bought one of these Signex Isopathc Bantam patchbays a little over 2 years ago and it is a piece of crap. A month after I bought it, it started getting scratchy and cutting out..a little wiggling seems to fix the problem. Then next time I plug in a cable, it's cutting in and out again until I spin the plug and pull it in an out a few times. In addition the DB25 connectors on the back are built wrong. When I plug a DB25 cable in the hood butts up against the board the signex' dsub jack is mounted on and won't allow the bolts to extend far enough to reach the nut that they fasten into. Sometimes I can get the bolt to bind about a half turn. But most time I have to rely on luck.

Back in 2005, I purchased it in a big order I placed through Dale Pro Audio-NYC (whom I have always been and still am very happy with). They ordered it from Redco along with a bunch of DB25 cables and Bantam patch cables. So after awhile, I'm getting pretty annoyed by this bays' lack of performance, so I call Redco to find out what steps we can take.

I got some cleaning spray/contact cleaner stuff from Redco and it takes care of the problem for awhile. But the bad contact problem returns the next day when I plug in a cable. Redco also sent me a few replacement hoods for the DB25 cables they sold me....hoping that this particular design would allow the cable to seat properly against the Synex dsub jack. No luck...the bolts still barely reach.

I called Redco again sometime a few months ago to see what we could do and I was recommended a different kind of spray cleaner (forgot the name). But more or less, the guy on the phone told me that the Signex stuff was worthless and that I wasted my $. Instead, I should by the new Redco branded 96pt TT/dsub patchbay. While I'm hoping the design is better than the signex, I'm still a little hesitant. Has the quality control on signex' manufacturing gone to hell? Or China? Could the problem be in this whole type of design? The one's we used at the studio I worked at in NYC was rock solid and worked perfectly...still does 5 years later.

Should I just ditch this dsub design and pony up and get an ADC with a punchdown panel from Mr. Patchbay.com? I've heard good things about that brand and Mr. Patchbay as well.

Suggestions or comments?
Old 30th August 2007
  #13
jho
Lives for gear
 
jho's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by SHIRK View Post
I bought one of these Signex Isopathc Bantam patchbays a little over 2 years ago and it is a piece of crap. A month after I bought it, it started getting scratchy and cutting out..a little wiggling seems to fix the problem. Then next time I plug in a cable, it's cutting in and out again until I spin the plug and pull it in an out a few times. In addition the DB25 connectors on the back are built wrong. When I plug a DB25 cable in the hood butts up against the board the signex' dsub jack is mounted on and won't allow the bolts to extend far enough to reach the nut that they fasten into. Sometimes I can get the bolt to bind about a half turn. But most time I have to rely on luck.

Back in 2005, I purchased it in a big order I placed through Dale Pro Audio-NYC (whom I have always been and still am very happy with). They ordered it from Redco along with a bunch of DB25 cables and Bantam patch cables. So after awhile, I'm getting pretty annoyed by this bays' lack of performance, so I call Redco to find out what steps we can take.

I got some cleaning spray/contact cleaner stuff from Redco and it takes care of the problem for awhile. But the bad contact problem returns the next day when I plug in a cable. Redco also sent me a few replacement hoods for the DB25 cables they sold me....hoping that this particular design would allow the cable to seat properly against the Synex dsub jack. No luck...the bolts still barely reach.

I called Redco again sometime a few months ago to see what we could do and I was recommended a different kind of spray cleaner (forgot the name). But more or less, the guy on the phone told me that the Signex stuff was worthless and that I wasted my $. Instead, I should by the new Redco branded 96pt TT/dsub patchbay. While I'm hoping the design is better than the signex, I'm still a little hesitant. Has the quality control on signex' manufacturing gone to hell? Or China? Could the problem be in this whole type of design? The one's we used at the studio I worked at in NYC was rock solid and worked perfectly...still does 5 years later.

Should I just ditch this dsub design and pony up and get an ADC with a punchdown panel from Mr. Patchbay.com? I've heard good things about that brand and Mr. Patchbay as well.

Suggestions or comments?
I've had a completely different experience with mine, they work great and have for years. Maybe it's who wired them up?

I've moved once since and had the same guy wire them up and no troubles whatsoever either time. No wiggling, no noise, no need for any contact spray. I think they rock... maybe it's not the bays just poor wiring job? Hope you get it resolved though!
Old 30th August 2007
  #14
Lives for gear
 
Mike O's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by SHIRK View Post
Should I just ditch this dsub design and pony up and get an ADC with a punchdown panel from Mr. Patchbay.com? I've heard good things about that brand and Mr. Patchbay as well.

Suggestions or comments?
I have no experience wi/Signex, but you will have no such problems with the Audio Accessories TT/DB25.
Old 30th August 2007
  #15
Gear Nut
 
chrisredco's Avatar
 

We had had many issues with the Signex bays over the years we offered them. Many never had problems, but many had failures/shorts, etc. Also, their design caused Dsub Hood mounting issues as mentioned above where the PC board interfered with certain brands of hoods.

This, and other reasons, is what prompted us to develop our Redco version of these bays. Although we do use a more economical jack than Audio Accessories, we did do EXTENSIVE testing on ours by testing many thousands of insertions and are very confident in the reliability of the TT jacks used. Also, our chassis design fixed any mounting issues and work with any DB25 hood on the market.

As always, don't hesitate to contact me directly with any questions.

Thanks,
Chris Stubbs
Redco Audio
Old 30th August 2007
  #16
jho
Lives for gear
 
jho's Avatar
 

Nice Suit, Chris!!

I would be apparently one of the ones that never had any problems, praise the Lord thumbsup

If I do have problems I'll replace with the Redco brand for sure. Any vendor that offers this kind of support will have my business
Old 30th August 2007
  #17
Gear Guru
 
jwh1192's Avatar
signex working flawless here also .. sorry to hear your plight
Post Reply

Welcome to the Gearslutz Pro Audio Community!

Registration benefits include:
  • The ability to reply to and create new discussions
  • Access to members-only giveaways & competitions
  • Interact with VIP industry experts in our guest Q&As
  • Access to members-only sub forum discussions
  • Access to members-only Chat Room
  • Get INSTANT ACCESS to the world's best private pro audio Classifieds for only USD $20/year
  • Promote your eBay auctions and Reverb.com listings for free
  • Remove this message!
You need an account to post a reply. Create a username and password below and an account will be created and your post entered.


 
 
Slide to join now Processing…
Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Similar Threads
Thread
Thread Starter / Forum
Replies
chrisredco / Product Alerts older than 2 months
12
vibralux / So much gear, so little time
0
rdraudio / Gearslutz Secondhand Gear Classifieds
5
bleen / Gearslutz Secondhand Gear Classifieds
2
dsteve / Gearslutz Secondhand Gear Classifieds
1

Forum Jump
Forum Jump