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Help: Need a power supply for Otari Radar I Recorders, Players & Tape Machines
Old 10th January 2017
  #1
Here for the gear
 

Help: Need a power supply for Otari Radar I

Hi all,

i just bought a used Radar 1 with the controller. It arrived to me a bit poorly packed… :-( I powered it on and it started to boot up. It showed the wave shape welcome on the led bar display and went onward.

Then the display said ”Please wait a moment” (or something like that…) and that was showing on for many tens of minutes. I even went away and dis something else when waiting. When I came back it was still stuck in that point of the procedure. I shut it down and switched it on again. I heard a puff from inside of it and all went silent and didn’t go on at all when trying again later.

I took the power supply out of it. It doesn't smell like it was burnt or anything like that. The fan doesn't go on, any of the couplings doesn't give you any DC out? There is no fuse in it.

I contacted IZcorp but they said that there are no such power supplies as spares no more.

Just wondering if someone of you might have a spare power supply available?

The power supply info: JABA SYSTEM INC, Model NO: SPQ-4303, OUTPUT 300 WATTS, MADE IN TAIWAN. Measurements (w/d/h) are 15/14/8,6 cm (about 6/5,5/3,5 inches)

I guess any other power supply with similar specs would do but the original power supply has got 6 pieces of 6 pin couplings along the normal 4-pin couplings.

Please, see the attached photos!

Funny but that info on the PSU says: FUSE 7A? I wouldn't dare to open the PSU being afraid to never get the guts back in again... :-( Anyone know if there really is a 7A fuse inside it? See the last three photos where the cover of the PSU was removed. Didn't have the courage to proceed more demolition to it!

Any help appreciated,

Jorma K.
Finland
Attached Thumbnails
Help: Need a power supply for Otari Radar I-img_4525.jpg   Help: Need a power supply for Otari Radar I-img_4527.jpg   Help: Need a power supply for Otari Radar I-img_4530.jpg   Help: Need a power supply for Otari Radar I-img_4531.jpg   Help: Need a power supply for Otari Radar I-img_4533.jpg  

Help: Need a power supply for Otari Radar I-img_4527-1-.jpg   Help: Need a power supply for Otari Radar I-img_4513.jpg   Help: Need a power supply for Otari Radar I-img_4506.jpg   Help: Need a power supply for Otari Radar I-img_4511.jpg  

Last edited by Stratoblaster; 12th January 2017 at 08:26 PM.. Reason: added photos, edited text
Old 11th January 2017
  #2
Good for you on not wanting to dig further as the caps in that power supply can still hold lethal voltage even when unplugged. You would want to drain the caps before digging any further into it. Yes there probably is a fuse soldered to the board somewhere in there, but not user serviceable and most likely blew for a good reason. I have a Radar 24 and the power supply is fairly close to the Radar 1's. It's basically an AT computer power supply with extra 17-+ voltage rails for the audio cards, so it's custom and not something you can get off the shelf. Given that the power supply is from the mid nineties, I would say it is in need of a recapping. My advice would be to find someone nearby and have them recap and repair the supply. Occasionally they do come up on Ebay, but all of them are old now and sometimes they can fail catastrophically and take out other components.
Old 11th January 2017
  #3
You need ±5 and ±12 volts so you could replace it with two power supplies like these

TXL 035-0512D TRACOPOWER, AC/DC Enclosed Power Supply, Compact, Adjustable, Fixed, 2 Outputs, 85 V, 264 V, 35 W, 5 V | Farnell element14

The current required is assymetrical (see the label on the old PSU) and always with gear containing logic the +5 volt rail will demand more current than the other rails

I'd be tempted to get a +5 supply and a separate ± 12 Volt supply then derive the -5 from the -12 via a voltage regulator

Nick Froome
Old 11th January 2017
  #4
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[QUOTE=bolide;12368699]You need ±5 and ±12 volts so you could replace it with two power supplies like these]

Hmm.... What about 17V (in the label)?

-sb
Old 11th January 2017
  #5
Didn't see 17 Volts - your eyes must be better than mine!
Old 11th January 2017
  #6
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SP2016's Avatar
Not only his eyes....
Look again at the right hand side of the attached enlargement of the label and even you may see it !!
+17 and - 17 !!
Attached Thumbnails
Help: Need a power supply for Otari Radar I-psu.png  
Old 26th January 2017
  #7
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Progression!

Hi,

My friend who is a pro in electronics took the guts out of it and is replacing the capacitors to the PSU but he also found out that two transistors were in bad condition and had caused the fuse to blow!
Attached Thumbnails
Help: Need a power supply for Otari Radar I-img_0003.jpg   Help: Need a power supply for Otari Radar I-img_0004.jpg  
Old 27th January 2017
  #8
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stratoblaster View Post
Hi,

My friend who is a pro in electronics took the guts out of it and is replacing the capacitors to the PSU but he also found out that two transistors were in bad condition and had caused the fuse to blow!
Thanks for the update and pics! Good to hear you found someone to rebuild the PSU and hope your Otari is back up and running soon.
Old 6th February 2017
  #9
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Hi, The PSU of the Otari Radar I is now up! However, I should get into BIOS Setup. See the pics! I just wonder where to put the keyboard in to be able to <press F1>???

Or has this got something to do with the CMOS battery?
Attached Thumbnails
Help: Need a power supply for Otari Radar I-img_4574.jpg   Help: Need a power supply for Otari Radar I-img_4575.jpg   Help: Need a power supply for Otari Radar I-img_4576.jpg   Help: Need a power supply for Otari Radar I-img_4577.jpg  
Old 7th February 2017
  #10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stratoblaster View Post
Hi, The PSU of the Otari Radar I is now up! However, I should get into BIOS Setup. See the pics! I just wonder where to put the keyboard in to be able to <press F1>???

Or has this got something to do with the CMOS battery?
Possibly the battery-did you change it? You'll need an old style keyboard with a DIN connector or an adapter and that gets plugged into the pc keyboard in port next to the midi connectors. They have DIN to PS/2 connectors on Ebay for around $4.
Old 7th February 2017
  #11
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You got to be kidding man! I must be blind! Thank You!

I searched all over the back panel for the keyboard connector! However, must have been too tired because I thought all the DIN connectors are MIDI. I even have an old KB with a PS2 connector and a PS2-to-DIN connector in my "treasure box" where I keep my old PC stuff. I have built dozens of PCs starting in the 90's. So I should have known to search the DIN connector. Will be continued this evening...

-sb

Last edited by Stratoblaster; 7th February 2017 at 10:59 AM..
Old 7th February 2017
  #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pitchbend View Post
Possibly the battery-did you change it? You'll need an old style keyboard with a DIN connector or an adapter and that gets plugged into the pc keyboard in port next to the midi connectors. They have DIN to PS/2 connectors on Ebay for around $4.
I didn't change the CMOS battery (yet). Is there a risk of losing something when taking off the battery? Should I close/open some pins on the motherboard? Been sooooo long since made anything like this...

-sb
Old 7th February 2017
  #13
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stratoblaster View Post
I didn't change the CMOS battery (yet). Is there a risk of losing something when taking off the battery? Should I close/open some pins on the motherboard? Been sooooo long since made anything like this...

-sb
It sounds to me like the settings might have already been lost when the machine was without it's power supply and the battery didn't have enough juice to keep the settings. Usually the machine is set to not error during post when a keyboard is not connected(the mobo's default is probably to stop when no keyboard is detected), so that's my first clue the settings got blown out. What's kind of a bummer, is I think the battery in the Radar 1 is soldered to the mobo, so that makes it a pain to replace. Possibly a workaround would be to just have a keyboard and monitor(although once you memorize the keystrokes the monitor prob won't be needed) connected during power and bypassing the cmos error screen to get you going for each session.
Old 7th February 2017
  #14
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Progress! I guess I have the wrong kind of SCSI terminator? It says "DIFFERENTIAL" on it. The RADAR did not "see" the SCSI drives when the terminator was installed. I had an idea that maybe it is that f***ing terminator that bothers the system and as soon as I got it off the boot went ok and the RADAR saw the three SCSI drives and mounted them.

I already listened a 16-track recording that was in there as a Project 1 and made a 2-track test recording. Everything seems to be ok BUT when booting again the system said "WEAK CMOS BATTERY" so I guess I have to change it anyway.

The problem is that the battery seems to be that green barrel-shaped thingie in the rear part of the MOBO. It says something like "NiMH 3,6V". Are there still batteries like that available? I guess it has to be soldered out.

Does anyone of you know about the right kind of SCSI terminator?

All help appreciated on how to change the battery.

Last edited by Stratoblaster; 8th February 2017 at 09:14 PM.. Reason: Spelling mistake
Old 7th February 2017
  #15
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Some new pics

Here are the pics!
Attached Thumbnails
Help: Need a power supply for Otari Radar I-img_4579.jpg   Help: Need a power supply for Otari Radar I-img_4580.jpg   Help: Need a power supply for Otari Radar I-img_4581.jpg   Help: Need a power supply for Otari Radar I-img_4582.jpg   Help: Need a power supply for Otari Radar I-img_4583.jpg  

Old 7th February 2017
  #16
Here for the gear
 

The battery may be soldered in there- but to me it looks like the type of CMOS battery that used to be in most Mac computers- up to and including the first generation iMac models. So it shouldn't be too hard to find.

Val
Old 7th February 2017
  #17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stratoblaster View Post
Progress! I guess I have the wrong kind of SCSI terminator? It says "DIFFERENTIAL" on it. The RADAR did not "see" the SCSI drives when the terminator was installed. I had an idea that maybe it is that f***ing terminator that bothers the system and as soon as I got it off the boot went ok and the RADAR saw the three SCSI drives and mounted them.

I already listened a 16-track recording that was in there as a Project 1 and made a 2-track test recording. Everything seems to be ok BUT when booting again the system said "WEAK CMOS BATTERY" so I guess I have to change it anyway.

The problem is that the battery seems to be that green barrel-shaped thingie in the rear part of the MOBO. It says something like "NiMH 3,6V". Are there still batteries like that available? I guess it has to be soldered out.

Does anyone of you know about the right kind of SCCI terminator?

All help appreciated on how to change the battery.
Yes it's possible you might need a Single-Ended 50-pin Passive SCSI terminator instead of the differential. Is that the terminator the seller sold with the machine or did you purchase it?

Those batteries are still available, you just need to double check the length and number of pins(some have 2 neg tabs and one pos tab). This could work if the length and pins match:

Help: Need a power supply for Otari Radar IVarta 3/V80H 3 Pin 3.6V 80mAh NiMH Battery 55608303059 FAST USA SHIP | eBay


Resoldering a battery of this type is not too hard with the right equipment. It would require completely removing the mobo, desoldering the battery from the bottom of the board and soldering in the new one. Most of the work will be in removing the motherboard from the unit.
Old 8th February 2017
  #18
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Today I started up the unit many times and shut it down and it didn't give any false codes! Everything works ok! I guess the battery still is on the edge of running out. I don't rush soldering it off right now. Thanks for the link Pitchbend, I found those both battery types (2-legs/3-legs) also here in Finland for 3-4 EUR. So I'll get them when needed.

Extended my test recording to 7 tracks today. I think that this 16-bit machine sounds great!!! I was using my quite cheap Yamaha (for live rentals) MG-series mixer, Shure SM-58, Lindell 500-series pre-amps, bass straight line in, Ovation guitar straight line-in. I think that Radar I has got some strange magic. Sounds real "healthy" without need of using too much EQ.

Of course there are few annoying things! The three Seagate Cheetah SCSI discs sound like a grinder was used nearby! Needs really a good isolated rack with fans or placing to another room far away!

The Otari Radar I has a software version 1.50. I guess the newest (last one) is 1.68. Should I update to that? I guess I have to prepare a floppy for doing that?

The SCSI terminator did not come with the unit. I bought it on Ebay. I have to find the right one. You said single ended passive terminator?

Thank You all for your valuable help!

-sb
Old 10th February 2017
  #19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stratoblaster View Post
Today I started up the unit many times and shut it down and it didn't give any false codes! Everything works ok! I guess the battery still is on the edge of running out. I don't rush soldering it off right now. Thanks for the link Pitchbend, I found those both battery types (2-legs/3-legs) also here in Finland for 3-4 EUR. So I'll get them when needed.

Extended my test recording to 7 tracks today. I think that this 16-bit machine sounds great!!! I was using my quite cheap Yamaha (for live rentals) MG-series mixer, Shure SM-58, Lindell 500-series pre-amps, bass straight line in, Ovation guitar straight line-in. I think that Radar I has got some strange magic. Sounds real "healthy" without need of using too much EQ.

Of course there are few annoying things! The three Seagate Cheetah SCSI discs sound like a grinder was used nearby! Needs really a good isolated rack with fans or placing to another room far away!

The Otari Radar I has a software version 1.50. I guess the newest (last one) is 1.68. Should I update to that? I guess I have to prepare a floppy for doing that?

The SCSI terminator did not come with the unit. I bought it on Ebay. I have to find the right one. You said single ended passive terminator?

Thank You all for your valuable help!

-sb
Cool man, glad you got the Radar up and running. That's a great sounding box and even being 16-bit, still bests most modern converters. Yes it is loud though, but there's mods you can do to quiet it a bit. I put a quiet fan in my Radar power supply and a variable fan controller on the CPU and it helped a bit, but mine is a 24, so I think the scsi drives in it aren't as loud as the older ones. I've read that you can use a scsi to sata bridge to use modern drives as well, but haven't tried it yet.

I'm not 100% sure about the scsi terminator and don't want to steer you wrong, but based on some research I did online, it seems like actually a passive one isn't what you want either and actually it would be an Active 50-pin as that's the more commonly used terminator. Here's an example of one I think might be the right one: Help: Need a power supply for Otari Radar IGeneric 1901021 50 pin Active SCSI terminator Ship in USA tomorrow! | eBay

Sorry I know you are not in the US, but this is just for reference. Maybe someone who knows more than I can chime in a verify that is the correct terminator for a 1st gen Radar.

Yep, to update you'll need to create a floppy disc and it should boot during startup. IZ even has the disk image for 1.60 series on their website.
Old 14th June 2017
  #20
Here for the gear
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stratoblaster View Post
Today I started up the unit many times and shut it down and it didn't give any false codes! Everything works ok! I guess the battery still is on the edge of running out. I don't rush soldering it off right now. Thanks for the link Pitchbend, I found those both battery types (2-legs/3-legs) also here in Finland for 3-4 EUR. So I'll get them when needed.

Extended my test recording to 7 tracks today. I think that this 16-bit machine sounds great!!! I was using my quite cheap Yamaha (for live rentals) MG-series mixer, Shure SM-58, Lindell 500-series pre-amps, bass straight line in, Ovation guitar straight line-in. I think that Radar I has got some strange magic. Sounds real "healthy" without need of using too much EQ.

Of course there are few annoying things! The three Seagate Cheetah SCSI discs sound like a grinder was used nearby! Needs really a good isolated rack with fans or placing to another room far away!

The Otari Radar I has a software version 1.50. I guess the newest (last one) is 1.68. Should I update to that? I guess I have to prepare a floppy for doing that?

The SCSI terminator did not come with the unit. I bought it on Ebay. I have to find the right one. You said single ended passive terminator?

Thank You all for your valuable help!

-sb
Hi I have been a Radar 1 user since 2007. I have 2 units 1 for spares and other was in use up until recent. I have to say the sound from the converters is amazing blows away most other convertors. I have the later models which has the disc battery which is not soldered to the motherboard. I came unstuck when I replaced one of these simple job remove all audio and adat cards fit battery, but when i fired it up it would not play and with a monitor connected. it showed screen perfect but meters were going mad. Hence this is the spares model. I contacted IZ but they are no longer interested and I think maybe their newer staff don't know much about them. I have carried out all maintenance on mine which i must say isn't much ( Card re-seat) Drive replacement etc.
There is not much advantage in upgrading Radar software but if you get a 1.68 floppy in the drive you can boot from it and record using 1.68. As for Scsi terminators I have never needed to use them, Both my Radars operate with out them. I use an exabyte tape drive for backup s as HDD storage is not that big.

Glad to see you got some help in getting yours up and running, support is thin on the ground sos if you plan on doing that battery i recumbent that you have a spray like deoxit for electrical cleaning and lubrication. Once those audio and Scsi or dat cards get moved out they can become interimittant and cause loads of issues so best have the connections clean and lubricated
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