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tube amp
Old 9th September 2015
  #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ruffrecords View Post
I just checked out the Ferrograph Series Five schematic and they did use a centre tapped transformer so the wiring so there should be no need to alter the heater wiring. You just need to check if the centre tap on the mains transformer is used.

Cheers

ian
Hi, he hasn't used the original rerrograph psu as you can see in the supplied pics I've put up, as someone has quoted above he's used one that is susceptible to macanical noise which I have rectified but noise is still there, over the next few days I hope to try dr techno suggestions as I have all the parts just hope I do it well.

And is there any chance of fuse rating and Amps , i live in UK 230-240V

cheers Louis

Last edited by louis1; 9th September 2015 at 07:37 PM.. Reason: Forgot fuse rating.
Old 14th September 2015
  #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drtechno View Post
ok pictures. the orange dot is where you mount the fuse holder ( other pic)
the white line running to the front is the twisted pair wire going to the switch.
the blue messy line in the center is where you would run both secondary wire runs.
the yellow blobs represent two toroids installed on the two wire runs.
Hi drtechno, could i ask which amp fuse I'm meant to use , i live in the UK so the voltage is 230-240V

Cheers Louis.
Old 16th September 2015
  #33
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Bump Anyone!!!!
Old 16th September 2015
  #34
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wires

Quote:
Originally Posted by drtechno View Post
ok pictures. the orange dot is where you mount the fuse holder ( other pic)
the white line running to the front is the twisted pair wire going to the switch.
the blue messy line in the center is where you would run both secondary wire runs.
the yellow blobs represent two toroids installed on the two wire runs.
Hi drtechno , opened it up tonight to start the work. Thanks for the detailed pic, but could I ask you if you look at pic, there are a pair of orange & yellow wires coming from the 6.3v, going to a valve i take it these are the heated wires and a pair of grey wires coming from the 230v, and these are going to a bridge rectifier.

Do I twist these separately with ferrite choke on or all together.

cheers Louis
Old 16th September 2015
  #35
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pic

Sorry don't think pic went in first time
Attached Thumbnails
tube amp-20150916_195137.jpg  
Old 16th September 2015
  #36
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jp22's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by louis1 View Post
Bump Anyone!!!!
Just put a ground loop isolator between the amp output and speaker. Forget about all the rest of the rhetoric. Trying to track down the cause when using older gear is a waste of time and dangerous, especially if it's not properly grounded. If there's any remaining buzz after using an isolator, scoop the rest out with an EQ (narrow Q or bell). Pull it down to around -20 to -30db.
Old 16th September 2015
  #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jp22 View Post
Just put a ground loop isolator between the amp output and speaker. Forget about all the rest of the rhetoric. Trying to track down the cause when using older gear is a waste of time and dangerous, especially if it's not properly grounded. If there's any remaining buzz after using an isolator, scoop the rest out with an EQ (narrow Q or bell). Pull it down to around -20 to -30db.
Thanks for your slant on it, interesting with the very narrow bell eq ing, I could see that helping but while this suckers open I'd rather do it the right way,
I just needed a bit of a heads up off drtechno as he did go to the effort of doing me a detailed instructions on it. And yes no one need worry it is properly earthed,

cheers Louis
Old 16th September 2015
  #38
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latest prolem

Thought I'd just tackle the installed fuse and as you can see from my twisted wires I'm not sure twisting the earth wire with the switch wire. NEED HELP.
Attached Thumbnails
tube amp-20150916_220753.jpg   tube amp-20150916_220801.jpg  
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