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Guitarists - Show me your pedalboard! Effects Pedals, Units & Accessories
Old 24th March 2015
  #1831
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Joe_K's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sascha Franck View Post
Thanks a lot for the reply anyway, I might even re-try the RC Booster. It's been a while so perhaps I don't remember clear enough what it exactly was that didn't work too well (let alone that I'd rather use it for something else, I find it to be extremely expensive - street price is 219 Euros over here!).
I tried the RC Booster out on another non-Master volume head I have. The modest Egnater Rebel 20. It knocked my socks off. The RC Booster acts as volume and presence, pus the bass shelving is like a variable Tight/Deep control. Amazing how this pieces are all in place, I just never put them in this order. Now I'm seriously considering using the Rebel power amp at gigs. The 20w it puts out is extremely loud and the tone is excellent. Plus, the amp is so light for a tube head.
Old 24th March 2015
  #1832
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Joe_K's Avatar
And I just tried the RC Booster out on my 5150 50w power section. This is my favorite power section that I own, but always hampered by the lack of master volume, so now I'm rediscovering it. The RC Booster works great in this role with every amp I've tried so far (5 total, but 2 already had master volumes). I'm picky enough about sound and feel ... and I can't find any negative effect using the RC this way. Thanks for asking the question, because answering it is leading me to some new possible gear permutations!
Old 24th March 2015
  #1833
Lives for gear
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sascha Franck View Post
Sorry, that's not exactly true. You will usually find -4dB for instrument level and +10dB for line level. My Laney (unfortunately) offers 0dB and +10dB, hence, for some pedals even 0dB is too high once I really crank the preamp levels.

-----

gollumsluvslave and Joe_K: Thanks for the info on the AMT pedals. Surely sounds promising. I wish I could easily check the F model out - but as said, we're in pedal stoneage over here...

- Sascha
Sorry, i should have been more clear. It is not about what the button label says. The actual loudness level between the two is 3-4db it is not 15db by any measure. This is a measured VU value not conjecture or opinion. Measure it. Most amp loops are either adjustable or they are set for one or the other. Few pedals can handle a line level signal. Many manuals with switchable level will clearly state the actual db loudness level between the two is 3-4db. There is more to it than that electrically, but 14-15db is a horrendous level change no way there is that much difference in volume level.
The voltage level and impedance are different maybe that is the -4 / +10 if you look further over on the chart it states about 3.5db amplitude.
Most pedals will be stated by the maker if they can handle line level which is usually more delay and reverb type pedals. Line level is low impedance and most pedals these days can handle that.
As long as the loop is instrument level, as most are these days, and more importantly a series loop any pedal will work. If line level, typical ODs and boosts cannot handle it. Or you are driving the hell out of the unit in a mismatch.
As stated, a clean boost or overdrive can tighten up and articulate a gain structure on high gain amps (less amp gain level and using the pedal enhances the tone), a volume boost jump happens when running a boost post preamp. You do get a slight volume boost from having an OD or boost pre gain pedals or amp preamp in but that is usually from the more intense gain driving the pedal or amp more. If you want a significant volume jump for solos while retaining the same gain structure tone, a loop boost is the way to go providing the levels are workable. Usually class A clean boosts work the best in a loop but anything will work if the loop is instrument/pedal level. The better Class A. like Radial, are less noisy and cleaner in that use.

Last edited by darkhorse; 24th March 2015 at 02:24 PM..
Old 24th March 2015
  #1834
Lives for gear
 

Joe_K: Very interesting! So you're saying the RC is as well staying completely clean if you take care with its drive knob? I would've never expected that when running it in the FX loop - as said, my tests resolved into something different. But it's quite some time ago, so perhaps I didn't take care of the loop level much. Too bad I need to ask a friend to borrow me an RC to do some more testing.

darkhorse: I will measure the differences in loop levels later on.

Cheers
Sascha
Old 24th March 2015
  #1835
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Joe Porto's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sascha Franck View Post
Joe_K: Very interesting! So you're saying the RC is as well staying completely clean if you take care with its drive knob?
Doesn't RC stand for "Really Clean"? (And AC= "Almost Clean")
Old 24th March 2015
  #1836
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Joe_K's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sascha Franck View Post
Joe_K: Very interesting! So you're saying the RC is as well staying completely clean if you take care with its drive knob?
Yes, I can't discern any distortion in the signal. With gain at 0 and the volume at unity, it is an extremely transparent device. It remains uncolored when the volume changes, as far as I can tell. Probably the best uncolored boost I've ever come upon (with the added benefit of it being a cut as well, something you don't find in too many boosts ... I guess calling it a boost is the easy way to market it though).

Now, of course, that all is with the caveat that it might change based on signal level. As I said before, I didn't have a good experience putting it after a preamp that outputs +10 dB, but at the end of the chain, after a Strymon BigSky, no trouble at all. It could really be marketed this way, as a Master Volume, Presence and Depth control. The EQ frequencies are nearly perfect in this role as well.

I've decided to give my 5150 a whirl at the next gig this way along with one of my Mesa 2x12 slant cabs. I've always loved this configuration for smaller stages.

Last edited by Joe_K; 24th March 2015 at 08:03 PM..
Old 24th March 2015
  #1837
Lives for gear
Xotic makes good stuff guys.
If you want an uncolored clean boost look for "Class A". My Radial PB1 has no EQ adjust and just boosts the signal to +15. The newer Elevator model has more features, also dead clean but has some EQ if you need it.
There's a million boost pedals out there, probably none are bad. Like I said if the loop is instrument level as most are these days, any decent pedal will do the deal.
Using an overdrive as a clean boost is a bit of a waste for an overdrive much less an expensive one. If it is something you already have obviously making use of on hand. But to purchase it for that end, there are better options. At least read the tech info.

Telling you the tech on these pedals is superior, but do what you like:
Radial Big Shot PB1 Power Booster Pedal at zZounds
Radial Elevator Multi-Level Booster and Buffer Pedal at zZounds
Old 24th March 2015
  #1838
Here for the gear
 
Folklore's Avatar
 

Here's my humble set up. So far I am pretty happy with the sound coming out of my tweed Blues Jr. but I am open to pedal order suggestions or other thoughts!

Note, the tuner is before the Wah in the chain, just placed where it is to keep it neat.
Attached Thumbnails
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Old 24th March 2015
  #1839
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Porto View Post
Doesn't RC stand for "Really Clean"? (And AC= "Almost Clean")
Well, the RC is able to add some dirt, so it's not exactly really clean all the time.

Joe_K, seems to be like a pretty nice option. I might give it another shot.
But well, need to make some other decisions first. I just wired up my humble Boogie MkIV system again, and well, that defenitely is giving me the best sounds I have in my arsenal. Unfortunately so far it requires an additional rack to work and I simply hate that with a passion...

Cheers
Sascha
Old 24th March 2015
  #1840
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Joe_K's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sascha Franck View Post
Well, the RC is able to add some dirt, so it's not exactly really clean all the time.

Joe_K, seems to be like a pretty nice option. I might give it another shot.
But well, need to make some other decisions first. I just wired up my humble Boogie MkIV system again, and well, that defenitely is giving me the best sounds I have in my arsenal. Unfortunately so far it requires an additional rack to work and I simply hate that with a passion...

Cheers
Sascha
True. I notice in their feature list for the RC Booster they don't even mention the gain control though. They definitely market this as their clean boost. The Gain control adds what I would call "hair" to the signal, not really an OD (unless you like the sound of the gain cranked really high ... but you'd probably be going for the AC Booster or even the BB Preamp in that circumstance). It makes it usable as a clean boost or a dirty boost. (For instance, my Luxury Drive is a dirty boost and I can dial in a passable result on the RC to match that one).

I could compare all the boosts I have and discuss the character of each (I have many), but it would be pointless since, in this case, you really want an amp Master Volume and the RC Booster is only one of two boosts I have that can do this. Luckily, it happens to be extremely transparent, making it ideal. The excellent shelving EQ is the icing on the cake. I'm looking forward now to using this. I have so many amps and speaker cabs, but my AC-30 and Night Train were the only amps that were "compatible" with my system. Now I have so many possibilities. Been playing my 5150/Boogie Cab all day and loving it.

I would definitely try out your friends RC before buying (unless you find one stupid cheap). It may not be the magic bullet for your signal chain that it is for mine.

Last edited by Joe_K; 24th March 2015 at 07:59 PM..
Old 24th March 2015
  #1841
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Joe_K's Avatar
BTW, I don't know if this is useful, I'm no engineer, but I was doing some research and the RC Booster can take up to 15v for increased headroom. Would that relate to the nominal input level as well? I tried running 12v from my Voodoo Lab psu and it didn't make any difference that I could tell, but then it already sounded fine at 9v anyway.
Old 24th March 2015
  #1842
Here for the gear
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sascha Franck View Post
lonzob and darkhorse, thanks for the replies.

Anyhow, the Volcano box doesn't seem to have an active boost, which is what I need. And I seriously don't even remotely need any of the other functions at all.

Not sure what was so tough to understand (is it a language thing? English isn't my native language...), but all I really need is something to give me master volume alike functions for non master volume amps. Has to accept anything from instrument to line level on the input and be able to cut the level (to zero, if desired) and boost it (I could perhaps find out how much boost it should be able to do in terms of dBs), all with one single pot. Really, exactly what you'd do with a master volume. And exactly what pretty much each and every multi FX unit is able to do (just that I won't use any of these anymore).

- Sascha
Hey Sascha, the Volcano is active. - it has an input and output buffer - and can go from 0 to +18db of boost. Plus you can set this up to have presets. Unless I'm missing something... If you have any questions you can email Sound Sculpture, they responded to my questions.
Old 25th March 2015
  #1843
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkhorse View Post
Sorry, i should have been more clear. It is not about what the button label says. The actual loudness level between the two is 3-4db it is not 15db by any measure. This is a measured VU value not conjecture or opinion. Measure it.
I have measured it.
My Laney offers 2 options: 0dB and +10dB.
I set the inout of my audio interface for 10dB and sent a continous signal into the amp, then adjusted the level so it reached 0dB in the soundcard.
Then I switched the FX loop to 0dB. The meter of my DAW showed -9.5dB.

So, the difference is pretty much exactly what it says on the FX loop switch.
And honestly, I have never heard it to NOT be like that before. Also, I wouldn't happen to know why it would say 0/+10dB (or most often -4/+10) and actually not deliver that difference.

And fwiw, it's pretty much the same on the Twin (just that it has 3 loop level options and no clear labeling, so I can't exactly say what it's supposed to be). It also seems to be like that on any other amp I ever used, featuring a switch.

Cheers,
Sascha
Old 26th March 2015
  #1844
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Joe Porto's Avatar
 

Line level is actually -10 (consumer) or +4 (pro)
Old 26th March 2015
  #1845
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Porto View Post
Line level is actually -10 (consumer) or +4 (pro)
I do (pretty much "of course", I may like to add, had to study that kinda stuff too, yadayada...) know. I just tend to mix it up while typing.

I do however think that anything noticeably below 0dB is not considered line level at all anymore but instrument level. Or well, let's better say, the "consumer" and "pro" monikers are something from, hm, "another world" (f.e. such as the Radio Shack world).

Doesn't change much, though. the Laneys loop level is switchable between -10 and 0 and my measuring test confirmed the difference pretty much 1:1 (with a difference of 0.5dB, quite understandable on analog equipment).

Btw, had a look at the Twins manual and remeasured it. The loop offers 3 levels, -16, -7 and +4. My measuring confirmed that again to be pretty much accurate.

Cheers,
Sascha
Old 26th March 2015
  #1846
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Joe Porto's Avatar
 

dB is a reference to something....usually, 1 volt=0dBv. There is dBv and dBu. -10dBv is a standard in consumer line level audio. The dB values on your amp's FX loop may be referenced to the voltage level at the point where the FX send is derived, allowing for 0dB (a straight signal), and -10dB (a reduced signal w/ makeup gain to allow for pedal use. Since there is no indication of dBu or dBv, it's hard to say exactly what they are referenced to as far as any standard, nor would Fender's dB reference correlate to Laney's.
Old 26th March 2015
  #1847
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Porto View Post
dB is a reference to something....usually, 1 volt=0dBv. There is dBv and dBu. -10dBv is a standard in consumer line level audio. The dB values on your amp's FX loop may be referenced to the voltage level at the point where the FX send is derived, allowing for 0dB (a straight signal), and -10dB (a reduced signal w/ makeup gain to allow for pedal use. Since there is no indication of dBu or dBv, it's hard to say exactly what they are referenced to as far as any standard, nor would Fender's dB reference correlate to Laney's.
Well, at least Fender says dBv.
Anyhow, I know that without a reference there's rather little sense in actual values, especially given that all this is happening after a tube guitar preamp, so you pretty much don't know which gain/volume settings things are referring to. at least i wouldn't happen to know...

However, all I wanted to know was whether the differences in values are actually worth something or not (as darkhorse stated...). And they are. The differences are in fact pretty much exactly what the FX loop level switches say.

Cheers
Sascha
Old 26th March 2015
  #1848
Lives for gear
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Porto View Post
Doesn't RC stand for "Really Clean"? (And AC= "Almost Clean")
So what does BB stand for?
Old 27th March 2015
  #1849
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkhorse View Post
So what does BB stand for?
Bad Boy?
Big Balls?
Bouncy B**bs?

- SF
Old 27th March 2015
  #1850
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Joe_K's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sascha Franck View Post
Bad Boy?
Big Balls?
Bouncy B**bs?

- SF
Bubbly Brew?
Ball Breaker?

.
.
.

Blues Breaker
Old 29th March 2015
  #1851
Well, it's not my floor setup, but my guitar room at any rate.
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Old 29th March 2015
  #1852
Gear Nut
 
mutronboy's Avatar
After happily playing my Dumble clone for a year with no pedals I recently got the pedalGAS bug
Really lovin' the Timefactor and Cusack Tap-A-Phase
I need to build a proper board, but I have to cram my Rotosphere in there somehow!

Old 30th March 2015
  #1853
Here for the gear
Built for speed

Hello fellow board tappers, knob twisters, tone junkies,

This is my touring rig. It is changing to a rack system using the RJM Rack Gizmo and the Voodoo Ground control. I also own a couple guitar pres like Avid Eleven and an old ADA MP-1, I bought when they 1st came out in the 80's. They pretty much live in the studio.

I own Dr Z, Marshall, Ampeg (1965 Gemini II), Peavey, Orange, Acoustic and several Fenders. They all have their place for respective tone in my book. I prefer the Fender Hot rod deluxe to the standard deluxe. There's more clean headroom on the hot rod and better for pedals.

The red tolex covered pedalboard I built, the custom length Mogami 2524 leads I cut from bulk & soldered Switchcraft 224 & 226 plugs on. I spent a ton on Bill Lawrence solderless cables and learned, for professional applications, hardwire is the only way to go. Stepping on the BL and gradually twisting off the top of the plug causes opens and failure. Frustrating when you're in the middle of your big solo and the "oh s#%^" moment happens. The rocktron is history now. One thing I learned with the Patchmate 8 floor, it's exactly the same architecture as the GCX rack unit. I opted for the Rack Gizmo instead tho. I really like RJM's stuff. I've since added the Radial SGI for relocating my amps back stage. The signal is sent back up thru my ears and the A-1 loves it.

The smaller board shown is the master controller of the larger board and used as a "Pod", as I call it, for smaller gigs where I don't use both boards. The studio shots show close ups of each board, the stage shot shows how it's setup on stage and another shot of a scaled down rig. I have presets for songs and can change anything on the fly. This will also be the case with the new rack system.

I'm also making a custom loom with quick connect, multipin MIL bayonet connectors for the rack system. One twist on each end and I'm up & going in 15 minutes or less, tuned & ready to rock. Load out is even faster. I do mostly big stages and can afford the luxury of a big rig. The guitars shown side stage; 1968 original Strat ("Scratchy"), 1978 original Les Paul ("Noche") & 1984 G&L Asat Classic ("Baron" American made in Leo's shop). The stage shot guitars are PRS ("Ruby"), another G&L ASAT Classic maple neck ("Sunny" also American made), Scratchy again and a Takamine "Sante Fe" previously owned by Hank Williams Jr's bass player ( a good friend). I have quite a few more guitars, amps and other pedals not shown but I'm sure you get the picture. It changes with the wind.
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Old 30th March 2015
  #1854
Lives for gear
 
Joe_K's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmize View Post
Hello fellow board tappers, knob twisters, tone junkies,

This is my touring rig. It is changing to a rack system using the RJM Rack Gizmo and the Voodoo Ground control. I also own a couple guitar pres like Avid Eleven and an old ADA MP-1, I bought when they 1st came out in the 80's. They pretty much live in the studio.
Nicely thought out rig. Lots of similarities to what I do (one pedal board with command and control stuff sending signals to a second larger pedal board via MIDI that I keep behind my amps ... which I can reconfigure quickly into 1 small pedal board for certain gigs).

I was researching a new MIDI foot controller for a while, and was going to get a Voodoo Lab Ground Control, but at the last minute I discovered the Fractal Audio MFC-101 foot controller. If you haven't already, check it out. It goes under the radar as a MIDI controller because of how it is marketed along with the AxeFX, but as it turns out, it is one of the most programmable and tough stand-alone MIDI controllers on the market. It occupies that market space between a Ground Control and a Liquid Foot (or an RJM MasterMind GT.) You can configure it to work simply like a Ground Control, but then there is so much more you can do if you choose.
Old 31st March 2015
  #1855
Lives for gear
 
noah330's Avatar
I have a whole mess of pedals but normally I use one of the two boards below.





I have probably 100 pedals. I just don't really use them all that much. Here are some from my collection. I buy a lot of pedals because they're fun to track down. I have all the old DOD stuff from when I was a kid (including the rare ones like the Stereo Reverb and Corrosion), I have a lot of the cool Boss stuff and I have some weird stuff like the Gibson Maestro Fuzz, etc.... Kind of more fun to collect then to actually use

Old 31st March 2015
  #1856
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RicTone's Avatar
 

^^^^ Noah, nice!

Some of you guys were talking about the RC Booster and I thought I'd mention the Mooer Pure Boost. As I've said in the past, before I buy a clone I virtually always also buy the original. I wish I wouldn't have sold my RC Booster but when I recently needed to add two boosts on my pedalboard (one as a boost and one as a cut) rather than buy two RC Boosters I got a Mooer Pure Boost and a Joyo Rated Boost.

I've been really happy with the Mooer Pure Boost. I don't have anything to A/B it with but it seems to be every bit as good as the RC Booster. As a boost however the Joyo disappointed me. The Joyo seemed to have the subtle characteristic of either adding slight compression sort of like a mini limiter. It was just subtle enough that it drove me crazy. I rely on picking dynamics - I hit the strings hard (I can shred one particular brand of pick in less than 20 minutes lol) and the Joyo seemed to interfere with dynamics (at least it seemed to on my pedalboard.) Anyway, the Joyo works fine as a cut.
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Old 1st April 2015
  #1857
Had a question for you all: I don't have a pedalboard yet as I haven't been able to find one that fits my needs, but I did just come across the Holeyboards and was wondering if anyone here has used them? I'm specifically looking at their Big Kahuna board. They seem fairly inexpensive and I think I like the idea of using zip ties over velcro. Any thoughts? Other Recommendations? Here are my pedals sans board (I will be adding one more pedal [Ditto x2] to this setup, or possibly two) -
Attached Thumbnails
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Old 1st April 2015
  #1858
Lives for gear
 
Joe_K's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by genshi View Post
Had a question for you all: I don't have a pedalboard yet as I haven't been able to find one that fits my needs, but I did just come across the Holeyboards and was wondering if anyone here has used them? I'm specifically looking at their Big Kahuna board. They seem fairly inexpensive and I think I like the idea of using zip ties over velcro. Any thoughts? Other Recommendations? Here are my pedals sans board (I will be adding one more pedal [Ditto x2] to this setup, or possibly two) -
The only thing I can say is that I started by going zip ties and not every pedal I own lent itself to being zip tied, but then I couldn't run zip ties and any angle like you could with that board. So it looks like a cool idea in theory.
Old 14th April 2015
  #1859
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Turdadactyl's Avatar
Guitarists - Show me your pedalboard!-pedalboard.jpg
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Old 14th April 2015
  #1860
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noah330's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by genshi View Post
Had a question for you all: I don't have a pedalboard yet as I haven't been able to find one that fits my needs, but I did just come across the Holeyboards and was wondering if anyone here has used them? I'm specifically looking at their Big Kahuna board. They seem fairly inexpensive and I think I like the idea of using zip ties over velcro. Any thoughts? Other Recommendations? Here are my pedals sans board (I will be adding one more pedal [Ditto x2] to this setup, or possibly two) -
The first thing I would say is just because you own a pedal doesn't mean you need it on your board.

I think a lot of the huge boards are overkill and/or confusing. Some people need all that stuff to play live, but I use effects more for recording and stick to a more basic configuration on my board.

There will always be some weird thing you need, but I find having a few different sized boards and being able to arrange them for each situation works best for me.
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