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Power amp / cabinet matching Studio Monitors
Old 6 days ago
  #1
Gear Addict
 

Cool Power amp / cabinet matching

I'm embarrassed to say I've been playing guitar for 20 years at this point but never used a power amp / cabinet setup - always guitar > pedal board > tube amp

I recently picked up a peavey pv260 power amp to use with an ampeg single speaker cab with a 12" v30 inside and my unpowered kemper.

I have spent a few hours in the search bar and google trying to figure out the best way to hook it up but I'm actually more confused than I originally started and have received conflicting advice.

The cab is 60 watt rms rated at 16 ohms and the power amp appears to have 2 ohm, 4 ohm, 8 ohm capabilities with 130 watts per channel, 2 channels.

I have pics of them below ( I grabbed from google images but the same units)

I do have the manual for the pv260 but it's honestly no help. Based on this, how would you hook this up for best results?
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Power amp / cabinet matching-photo4_zpsd1e2fb26.jpg   Power amp / cabinet matching-screenshot_20181109-081417_samsung-internet.jpg  
Old 6 days ago
  #2
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enorbet2's Avatar
Assuming this is the solid state amp, the output should be quite different at different impedance ie higher output at lower speaker load impedance and vice versa. 130 watts into a 60 watt speaker is fine in PA work but risky in a guitar rig. If the amp produces 130 watts into 8 ohms (I doubt it) running into a 16 ohm load should be pretty safe as the output should drop to roughly 65 watts but I'd call Peavey to be certain a 16 ohm load won't allow weird non-linear transients.

The smartest, safest choice would be to add another similar 16 ohm cab to drop the effective load to 8 ohms and power handling to 120 watts.
Old 6 days ago
  #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enorbet2 View Post
Assuming this is the solid state amp, the output should be quite different at different impedance ie higher output at lower speaker load impedance and vice versa. 130 watts into a 60 watt speaker is fine in PA work but risky in a guitar rig. If the amp produces 130 watts into 8 ohms (I doubt it) running into a 16 ohm load should be pretty safe as the output should drop to roughly 65 watts but I'd call Peavey to be certain a 16 ohm load won't allow weird non-linear transients.

The smartest, safest choice would be to add another similar 16 ohm cab to drop the effective load to 8 ohms and power handling to 120 watts.

The amp is solid state and rated at 130 watts rms per channel at 4 ohms and 90 at 8. To be honest I'm not even sure how I would choose one over the other as there is no switch or anything. The only thing on the amp worth noting are the outputs I have shown on the back panel in the pic above.


I do have other cabinets I could hook up but I am not wanting to drive two 12 inch speakers, I'd rather drive one as this is for recording and I'm not going for gigging volume here.

The manual has no instructions other than showing how to run stereo cabs vs mono which is basically the only obvious thing to me here. Am I over thinking this?
Old 6 days ago
  #4
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enorbet2's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by nmrecording View Post
The amp is solid state and rated at 130 watts rms per channel at 4 ohms and 90 at 8. To be honest I'm not even sure how I would choose one over the other as there is no switch or anything. The only thing on the amp worth noting are the outputs I have shown on the back panel in the pic above.


I do have other cabinets I could hook up but I am not wanting to drive two 12 inch speakers, I'd rather drive one as this is for recording and I'm not going for gigging volume here.

The manual has no instructions other than showing how to run stereo cabs vs mono which is basically the only obvious thing to me here. Am I over thinking this?
I don't think you're overthinking this since although theoretically any SS amp can operate into any load impedance things can get weird when gobs of negative feedback are involved as it is on virtually every SS amp ever made.

Firstly it's good that the amp is rated to drop to 90 watts into 8 ohms. That scales rather nicely for the combination of increased load impedance and the lower spl levels you mention. The amp isn't going to instantly evaporate in a puff of smoke with a 16 ohm load and very likely will perform just fine. I'd try it at low level settings and take note of temperatures. It should get quite warm but painfully hot is a bad sign on most amps, especially those with no external heat sinks. If that occurs shut it down.

BTW I looked and owners as well as repair manuals are available for download though some guy charges like 5 bux for one variety... still, prolly worth it, but if you're careful I don't predict any major issues. Just take your time and check periodically and especially listen for any very high pitched oscillations. Ideally this is better checked with a scope but it's up to ou how careful you want to be. I imagine a quick phone call would ease your mind. Peavey has a good rep for customer service.
Old 6 days ago
  #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enorbet2 View Post
I don't think you're overthinking this since although theoretically any SS amp can operate into any load impedance things can get weird when gobs of negative feedback are involved as it is on virtually every SS amp ever made.

Firstly it's good that the amp is rated to drop to 90 watts into 8 ohms. That scales rather nicely for the combination of increased load impedance and the lower spl levels you mention. The amp isn't going to instantly evaporate in a puff of smoke with a 16 ohm load and very likely will perform just fine. I'd try it at low level settings and take note of temperatures. It should get quite warm but painfully hot is a bad sign on most amps, especially those with no external heat sinks. If that occurs shut it down.

BTW I looked and owners as well as repair manuals are available for download though some guy charges like 5 bux for one variety... still, prolly worth it, but if you're careful I don't predict any major issues. Just take your time and check periodically and especially listen for any very high pitched oscillations. Ideally this is better checked with a scope but it's up to ou how careful you want to be. I imagine a quick phone call would ease your mind. Peavey has a good rep for customer service.

Thanks for response. I do have the owners manuals but hopefully wont need to download / buy a repair manual.

To be clear, I want to clarify what someone told me which was to run the output of channel a and b into the cab's 2 input jacks.

Does this seem right to you? It sure didn't seem right to me
Old 6 days ago
  #6
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I contacted peavey and they cleared this up for me.

They indicated to use both outputs of each channel if the speaker is stereo, otherwise to only connect one channel.

I appreciate your assistance.. i am glad I double checked it contradicted what someone else said which may have ended badly?
Old 5 days ago
  #7
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enorbet2's Avatar
ummm you did say this was a Single Speaker cab, right? Unless it is a dual voice coil speaker (Highly unlikely) Stereo is NOT an option. Just use one channel.

It is probably wise in a Mono situation to stick a load resistor on the unused channel output but that's just covering all the bases and not usually an absolute requirement on SS power amps as long as you're certain no signal is passing through that channel. It might be just as viable to have a tech install another Power switch to just turn off the unused side but again one doesn't need a load resistor of full output power rating for what amounts to fractional signal levels from crosstalk.
Old 4 days ago
  #8
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zerocrossing's Avatar
Make sure you disable the cab section of the Kemper or it may sound odd.
Old 3 days ago
  #9
Quote:
Originally Posted by enorbet2 View Post
ummm you did say this was a Single Speaker cab, right? Unless it is a dual voice coil speaker (Highly unlikely) Stereo is NOT an option. Just use one channel.

It is probably wise in a Mono situation to stick a load resistor on the unused channel output but that's just covering all the bases and not usually an absolute requirement on SS power amps as long as you're certain no signal is passing through that channel. It might be just as viable to have a tech install another Power switch to just turn off the unused side but again one doesn't need a load resistor of full output power rating for what amounts to fractional signal levels from crosstalk.
Shouldn't need a load resistor on a modern (made after 1980) SS Peavey. They generally have really good protection circuitry.

No need to turn off the unused channel, either.
Old 2 days ago
  #10
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enorbet2's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Eppstein View Post
Shouldn't need a load resistor on a modern (made after 1980) SS Peavey. They generally have really good protection circuitry.

No need to turn off the unused channel, either.
'

Thanks for the details but FTR I did say "not a requirement".
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