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Old 17th November 2009
  #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noiseformoney View Post
I am in the process of treating my tiny post production studio at work.
The room is nearly a perfect cube, with the dimensions W:273 L:299,5 H:276 cm.
ok that IS tiny... only 22 cubic meters. ALMOST a cube.. but, luckily, not quite. heh You will have modal issues - but you probably already knew that. Right around 100 Hz.

Quote:
Originally Posted by noiseformoney View Post
The studio is used for post audio editing and mixing of a TV soap.
Are you doing surround mixing?? 5.1?? etc.

Quote:
Originally Posted by noiseformoney View Post
The next layer is studs placed 1 cm away from the old wall... one layer of asphalt sheets... two layers of drywall ...rockwool...48mm studs (98mm in front), gradually getting wider towards the back.... The ceiling will also get higher towards the back, as you see on the sketch. I will fill the walls/ceiling with 50mm acoustic panels...
In the back, behind the last wall, I have planned to make a basstrap, made up of 50mm studs, filled with acoustic panels. There are two layers of these, 10 cm apart.
Well, first of all: You are wasting space and material with all that and not building an effective soundproof partition.

Give yourself some room in there.. it's tiny.. don't make it too much smaller.

1. Use steel studs. They are much better with transmission loss than wood.
2. Place your bottom plate leaving at least a 4" air space from the existing wall. -- this is what really does the isolation.
3. Rock wool between the steel studs.
4. 2 layers of 5/8" gypsum board sandwiched together with Green Glue.
5. You will need to install another door on the inside wall.

**** Do not Connect the new wall to the old ones. ANYWHERE ****

An exterior type residential door would be fine for this, but you must get the entire door & frame with weather seals as a unit.

With this suggested wall you could get an STC rating of 56 on all walls. Make sure that it is not compromised by the ceiling. - the same rockwool + double layer 5/8" drywall with Green Glue applies there too. Your ceiling joists are attached to your new wall only.

Room Treatment:

Well to start off let me quote Ethan Winer:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ethan Winer View Post
Here's my standard reply which will get you 99 percent of the way there. All rooms need:

* Broadband (not tuned) bass traps straddling as many corners as you can manage, including the wall-ceiling corners. More bass traps on the rear wall behind helps even further. You simply cannot have too much bass trapping. Real bass trapping, that is - thin foam and thin fiberglass don't work to a low enough frequency.

* Mid/high frequency absorption at the first reflection points on the side walls and ceiling.

* Some additional amount of mid/high absorption and/or diffusion on any large areas of bare parallel surfaces, such as opposing walls or the ceiling if the floor is reflective. Diffusion on the rear wall behind you is also useful in larger rooms.

For the complete story see my Acoustics FAQ.

There's a lot of additional non-sales technical information on my company's web site - articles, videos, test tones and other downloads, and much more.

--Ethan
There's more on the GIK site too. -- and mine JavAkustik

Basically, you will need to put some good bass traps in every corner, good broadband absorbers at all reflection points, eliminate flutter by checker-boarding absorbers on walls and ceiling so that opposing surfaces are not both reflective.

NOTE: If the ceiling is dropped, look up there - and check that the existing walls go all the way to the next floor or roof. IF THEY DO NOT - You must extend them to the roof or next floor (and seal them well), otherwise all your efforts to sound proof will be wasted.

good luck,
Cheers!