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Old 14th August 2019
  #54
Lives for gear
 

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In short: I don't need any help from trolls like you,
Predictable. Well, I kinda figured you would refuse to post your MDAT here: because you know that when the experts analyze it, we'll find all the things that are wrong with your room, even though you think it is perfect... even though its clear that it isn't very good, from your comments about it! I suppose that's why you don't want to show your data from your room. Nor photos. Nor diagrams. Because you are finally realizing that your room is rather bad, and are ashamed to show it, ... because someone might be able to help you fix it. How sad.... But really, there's no need to be ashamed of a bad room! There's a LOT of people that come here to the forum with bad rooms, and want help to make them better.

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because you basically know nothing about acoustics
heheheh! If only you know... if only you would do some due diligence... I think you'd be eating your words...

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No other hobbies than to spend time writing endless postings here?
It's a pretty good hobby, actually! I think it's a good thing when people spend time helping out others like this. I think its sort of noble, in a way. I enjoy it, too. Well, with most people I enjoy it, but some are very annoying and just need to be put in their place. Fortunately, most people are very grateful to get professional help for free, and save lots of money. I'm surprised anybody would think that's somehow a bad thing... Fortunately, there are like-minded people around here, such as Andre, Bert, Jens, Boggy, Northward, DanDan, and a few others, who don't mind donating some of their valuable time to forums like this, to help out people who could probably not really afford to hire acoustic consultants. Yet, here and on other forums they get the same professional advice, for nothing! Why would that be a bad thing?

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Because I can treat first reflection points and bass at the same time, since the whole area at the side walls in the front cannot be used to place any instruments or whatever, no need to go for cheesy internet solution for home studios (corner Bass Traps / side wall absorbers).
So instead of taking the time to do it right and get good results, you prefer to waste 22% or your room width, and 6 cubic meters of space, killing the room entirely so that is practically dead... but only in the width-wise axis???.... A rather strange way of "treating" a control room. No wonder it sounds so bad in there, and you are getting the poor results that you keep on telling us about... If you would have done it correctly, you'd have a lot more space in the room, and it would sound great too. But if you are content with working in a room that sounds something like the interior of a dead mattress, and you think that it is better than Galaxy Studios, then that's fine! As long as you are happy in your delusion.

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There is still enough space to arrange a stereo width of 1.80m
I think you are confusing "speaker spread" with "stereo width". It's not the same thing. The sound stage does not only extend from speaker to speaker. Neither does the stereo image. Well, maybe in your room that's the case, but in a well designed room, that's not how it works.

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The only considerable better solution would have been to use angled side walls and redirect sound
Angling the side walls is a mistake for a small room. People who have large rooms can afford that luxury, but not in small room. Rather, achieving an RFZ or CID concept is usually done by angling surfaces within the room, at the front of the room, not the sides. It isn't hard to do at all, but it takes some knowledge of acoustics, careful design ability, then some accurate building. I guess that's why you didn't do it, maybe because all three of those are outside of your skill set? But you could hire people to do it for you.

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but that was too much effort
Well, that explains it then, doesn't it?

But anyway, in the interest of trying to get the thread back on track (yet again!):

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Originally Posted by gedna View Post
wow :D so much information, some of them conflicting, anyway,
There's actually no conflict here among the people who know what they are doing. All of the experts are in total agreement here: placing your speakers against the front wall will improve the SBIR situation, and will NOT, repeat NOT damage your stereo imaging, or the sound stage. That can only happen in a room that is very badly designed and treated, with no treatment on the rear wall, for example. So it won't happen in your room, because I'm assuming you will treat it correctly.

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thank you all for the input, my speakers are on stands, and since i will put bass traps in corners, moving speakers closer to front wall, they will be really close to my bass traps,
Right! Do try to get the speakers as close as you can to the front wall. As dinococcus mentioned, even if your speakers are rear ported you can still have them 5cm away from the wall. That's plenty. And as NMS said, placing an absorptive panel between them will help.

Once you get your speakers in place, then you can follow the procedures that people have given you here regarding how to optimize their position, and also the location of the mix position.

Your front wall bass traps are good, but you should really concentrate a lot of your treatment efforts on the rear wall. That's always the most problematic one in any small room. And I'd also suggest that you should think about putting up a "cloud" above the desk.

For the side wall treatment on your first reflection points, you can get good results with absorptive panels about 10cm thick, or 15cm if you can spare the space. But not 50cm! Make panels about 120cm high and 60cm wide, and hang them on the wall at the first reflection points. You do not need to make those floor to ceiling, nor do you need to make them nearly 4m long, and certainly not 50cm thick! That's extreme overkill. If you do that, you'll end up with a very dead room that has no life at all to it, is very fatiguing to work in for long periods, and sounds unnatural and unpleasant. The acoustic response will not be flat: it will be very uneven. So don't make that mistake.

I would also suggest that you after you measure with REW, please do post your MDAT file here, so we can take a look at it, and help you figure out what treatment you might need, and how to get the room sounding as good as it can be. I think I posted this before, but just in case, here's a brief tutorial on How to calibrate and use REW to test and tune your room acoustics


- Stuart -