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CM3 tiny detail that is a BIG detail.
Old 1 week ago
  #31
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hbphotoav's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by studer58 View Post
... The only trouble with the adapters (most types) is that they can get so deeply and tightly lodged in the mic holders, that a pair of pliers/grips or a wide flat blade screwdriver tip is often required to remove them !
Somebody needs a Leatherman tool...

Don't leave home without it.

Unless, of course, you're flying commercial. Then wrap it in a sock and stuff it into one of the shoes you'll need to pack into checked luggage. Otherwise...

HB
Old 1 week ago
  #32
Lives for gear
Quote:
Originally Posted by hbphotoav View Post
Somebody needs a Leatherman tool...

Don't leave home without it.

Unless, of course, you're flying commercial. Then wrap it in a sock and stuff it into one of the shoes you'll need to pack into checked luggage. Otherwise...

HB
I wish it were true....but I don't believe any of the multiple fan-out tools of a typical Leatherman has the width to catch both cut-outs of these adapters, they're a just a little narrow for that ? Maybe only the pointed pliers ends, if thin enough ?

https://www.leatherman.com.au/produc...ools/c-25/c-79

I'd be very happy to proven wrong on this though......!
Old 1 week ago
  #33
Gear Addict
 

If I recall, I used a dime to remove a insert from a mic but you better have a strong finger grip.
Old 1 week ago
  #34
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celticrogues's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by studer58 View Post
I wish it were true....but I don't believe any of the multiple fan-out tools of a typical Leatherman has the width to catch both cut-outs of these adapters, they're a just a little narrow for that ? Maybe only the pointed pliers ends, if thin enough ?

https://www.leatherman.com.au/produc...ools/c-25/c-79

I'd be very happy to proven wrong on this though......!
You are correct that a leatherman cannot typically catch both cutouts, but as long as the adapter isn't in there too tightly, I've always been successful in using the flathead screwdriver to get it out. I wouldn't leave home without my leatherman either!

-Mike
Old 1 week ago
  #35
I've used a dime, gripped by the needlenose of the leatherman.
Old 1 week ago
  #36
Gear Addict
 

Dimes and Leatherman are indispensable!
Old 1 week ago
  #37
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hbphotoav's Avatar
 

With the Leatherman 200 (my preferred tool) you open the pliers end a bit, fit the ends into the stuck adapter and... bingo. Works a treat.

HB
Old 1 week ago
  #38
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boojum's Avatar
And if you have your old C-rations P-38, that works just great, too.
Old 1 week ago
  #39
Gear Maniac
Some other options:
(see photo below for reference)

After struggling with stuck insert adapters that got buried too deep to get out
and especially when complicated with 3/8"-16 threaded rod (used as stand extensions) inserted into the adapter and not easily able to grip the rod to unscrew it without destroying the threads on the rod, I came up with some preventive measures and 2 DIY tools.

Prevention recommendations:

A.The best preventive option is to ALWAYS USE THREADED INSERT ADAPTERS WITH A RIM that limits insertion depth and so the "dime" trick is always an option.
Most "Rimmed" insert adapters have only 2-3 turns to engage which makes me nervous about them accidentally coming loose (see 1st adapter below). However the second adapter, available from Monoprice, has approximately 9 turns to fully engage!

NOTE the slot on the Monoprice adapters is narrower (approx. 1.5mm vs approx. 2mm for all the other adapters I have) so I recommend widening the slots of the Monoprice to make more "tool" options available (similar to other adapters).

I plan on using the Monoprice adapters exclusively from now on.

B. Even if you never intend to use 3/8 threaded rod inserted into the adapter,
I would recommend using a tool that properly fits both slots at the same time: to provide maximum torque if very stuck, to avoid damaging the slots of the adapters (typically softer metals like brass or aluminum) and to prevent possibly damaging the mic mount threads when eg the screw driver slips.
(see #2 below)

Related issues of things being "stuck":

C . If you are using 3/8 threaded rod ( I find it very useful for DIY) then always use a file to make a short segment with flat surfaces on two opposing sides of the rod to allow easing gripping with a wrench or pliers without damaging the threads. Makes it really easy to grip and loosen/tighten.
Duh! I really wish I had thought of this a long time ago!!

Yes the threads on the remaining 2 "sides" still work and allow things to smoothly move past the flattened segment.
(see example below)

D.If using 3/8 rod, use knobs with inserted 3/8 nut (see picture below) rather than regular nuts or "Jam" nuts. No tools needed and very quick to hand tighten/loosen/adjust.

DIY "Tools"

1. If you have threaded rod inserted into the adapter and the adapter is buried deep inside the mic holder then tool #2 is ideal. The tool (second from the top in the picture) is a piece of steel DOM Tube: 9/16" O.D. x .065" wall. The end was trimmed with a grinder, but could be done with a hacksaw, to leave 2 teeth at 180 deg to fit into the slots of the insert adapter. The teeth were
fine trimmed with a file.
The handle is a removable piece of 1/4" steel rod that can be removed and inserted inside the handle for storage.

2.If the other end of the 3/8 rod is NOT available then you can use tool #1 (top item in picture. It was made by a friend who welded a 1/2 round slice of tool #2 onto a handle.

I haven't tried it but you could probably make a similar tool by taking a length of flat steel 9/16" width and drilling a 7/16" hole near one end. Then bend 1/2 of the hole down by 90 deg. and then use a hacksaw to trim the bent portion to form 2 teeth that fit into the slots on the threaded insert adapter.
Again you will probably need to use a file to tweak the "teeth".

"simple" tool: Of course if you are never dealing with 3/8 rod inserted into the adapter then you can simply use a straight piece of 9/16" wide steel and file the end down to thickness that fits the slots on the adapter. Though making a 90 deg bend would give you better torque.

If you always use 3/8 rod with "flat" segment as in "C" above then you may be able to unscrew the 3/8 rod from the adapter first and then the "simple" tool should work fine.
Attached Thumbnails
CM3 tiny detail that is a BIG detail.-img_3680.jpg  

Last edited by Folkie; 1 week ago at 08:57 AM.. Reason: problem adding photo
Old 1 week ago
  #40
Gear Maniac
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by boojum View Post
And if you have your old C-rations P-38, that works just great, too.
I have one of those nifty can openers.
Old 1 week ago
  #41
Quote:
Originally Posted by boojum View Post
And if you have your old C-rations P-38, that works just great, too.
Before my time - My era of service was MREs, three lies in one.
Old 1 week ago
  #42
Gear Maniac
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMetzinger View Post
Before my time - My era of service was MREs, three lies in one.
Never had the pleasure of C-Rations
or MRE's but at least they weren't my
mother's cooking!
Old 1 week ago
  #43
Lives for gear
 

Stashing a ration pack for remote sessions isnt actually a bad idea. AB biscuits would be useful if you get stage fright, or you if need something dense to lob at hecklers
Old 1 week ago
  #44
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Howie J's Avatar
 

Thread Starter
Once again...this is why I love this part of the forum...2 pages of dialog on adapters from a random late night, tired, beer infused moment.

Cheers slutz!!
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