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Reanimatorstudio 18th May 2011 08:40 PM

HEAR technologies mixer problem
 
I've had it for 3 years. Now it stops working every 10 minutes while the power supply is OK. I phoned 2 distributors and mailed Hear technologies 2 times. Got no answers. Session with 5 studio musicians failed. Such an important piece of gear but you can not rely on it nor on it's support.

Don't read any further: support is great if you know the right guy and tornados stay away.


I did the mod and it is working now for more than a year!! Thanx

1- Remove the top of the unit. You should position the hub with the front faceplate towards you.
2- Locate the attachment “hub jumper” and note a PURPLE wire that goes from the power supply over to a trace
on the main board.
3- Look at attachment “R20 Connection”. This is on the supply, just in front of the RED wire coming f the 8-pin
connector. R20 is brown in color, with the body of the resistor to the LEFT, and a loop of wire going back into the
supply board on the RIGHT.
4- Tack-solder a 3” or so wire to the top of the wire loop on R20. DO NOT SHORT THIS TO ANY OTHER
COMPONENTS!!! The caps and small inductor near the resistor can be gently pushed a bit out of the way.
5- See attachment “main bd conn”. With an exacto knife or similar tool, scrape back about 1?2 “ of conformal
coating on the trace shown. NOTE THIS TRACE IS DIRECTLY SHORTED TO THE RED WIRE COMING FROM THE
MULTIPIN CONNECTOR. You can use a meter to ohm out this point just to make sure.
6- Tack-solder the other end of the wire to the trace. Make sure it does not short to the trace to the left of it.
7- Plug up the AC cord, STAY AWAY FROM THE SUPPLY and apply power. The clock LED should come on green with
the unit in analog mode.
8- Unplug from the wall, replace the top.
9- Have a cup of coffee or a beer........job well done!

otobianki74 18th May 2011 09:09 PM

are the ethernet plugs snug on both ends?

seeing lights on the satellites and the hub?

outputs on hub working fine?

had issues with my satellites going down and it was the teeth of the ethernet cables not making a connection.

oto

Cornvalley 18th May 2011 09:40 PM

It's a wise investment to have a second Hub on hand. The price of the system pretty much warrants it.
Sorry for your predicament. It really screws up a session to have drop outs. Otherwise, the mixers are very helpful for keeping players happy with what they are hearing.

sounddevisor 18th May 2011 09:42 PM

@Reanimatorstudio -

Sorry to hear about your problems, but I gotta disagree - I've had a Hearback system running for 4 years or more. I did have a few problems with the power supply early on, and the customer support from Hearback was great. I called them up, described the issue, they recognized it right away and sent me out a replacement power supply which i was able to swap in in about 10 minutes - problem solved.

Haven't had an issue with it since. Works great, sounds great, totally reliable - that's my experience.

- sounddevisor

sounddevisor's tracks on soundcloud

warhead 18th May 2011 10:31 PM

Email me, I will get them in touch with you.

I have found them to have exceptional support to say the least. Everyone I know who uses these systems loves them.

War peachh

DDD 19th May 2011 09:59 AM

my experience...
Max, at Hear Technologies=the best.

dwight dunlap

Reanimatorstudio 19th May 2011 10:57 AM

First of all thanks for all the care and replies kfhkh

Quote:

Email me, I will get them in touch with you.

I have found them to have exceptional support to say the least.
I will do that, thanks in advance!

The hub was even not working on my bench with only one mixer connected. Even without anything connected.
I was inspecting and measuring the things I could do without the schematics and didn't find anything wrong. Than I puched one spot on the pcb to detect soldering problems, the led "clock" went immediately from red to green. grrr heppy
Now it is working for 3 hours. So now I have to find the bad contact. could be pretty impossible on a digital smd unit without schematics.

Keep you informed

True North 19th May 2011 01:51 PM

Max has been awesome to me even with stuff out of warranty

Follow up with Warren to get in touch with him, they will fix you up in no time.

RCM - Ronan 20th May 2011 01:42 AM

My experience does not invalidate yours, but I have had really good luck with the system, especially considering the price.

warhead 20th May 2011 02:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reanimatorstudio (Post 6656937)
I will do that, thanks in advance!

I never heard from you and hope all is well.

War peachh

studio1670 20th May 2011 07:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reanimatorstudio (Post 6656937)
First of all thanks for all the care and replies kfhkh


I will do that, thanks in advance!

The hub was even not working on my bench with only one mixer connected. Even without anything connected.
I was inspecting and measuring the things I could do without the schematics and didn't find anything wrong. Than I puched one spot on the pcb to detect soldering problems, the led "clock" went immediately from red to green. grrr heppy
Now it is working for 3 hours. So now I have to find the bad contact. could be pretty impossible on a digital smd unit without schematics.

Keep you informed

If you think you might have soldering issues on a board, you can reflow the solder using a heat gun. I fixed my friend's laptop this way. It sounds hokey, but it works. No need for schematics.

T_R_S 20th May 2011 08:03 AM

I built my own analog split system with standard balance TRS connections 12 years and zero issues. Uses a standard mixer so each channels has EQ / sends etc.

warhead 20th May 2011 07:20 PM

As an update, I was just reminded by the HEAR rep that the tornadoes devastated their area in Alabama USA and they were offline for a number of days. This could be part of the issue with your communication, their whole operation got turned upside down from weather.

I will hit you by PM with the info I got.

War

the_sonic 20th May 2011 07:23 PM

I had the same issues. I decided to switch over to an Aviom system, much better in my opinion.

Steffmo 20th May 2011 08:39 PM

and another.....great support.

Reanimatorstudio 23rd May 2011 12:00 AM

Thanx to Gearslutz esp.War, Max from Hear technologies got in contact with me and gave me a decent answer.
It is probably some minor problem with a pcb trace. Something that can be fixed in 5 minutes. I did the small mod he suggested (one extra wire). Let's hope it will solve the problem.

Seems Hear Technologies has got a serious support after all if the tornados don't pass by. Let's hope all went well there.

Padje 3rd May 2012 10:28 PM

Hey Reanimatorstudio, could you tell me what the mod is ? I have 2 hubs en 6 satellites. I had my hubs (after they both went down in 10 days) repaired with the distributor in the Netherlands. Today during session I experienced dropouts. Not long. The dropouts appeared after working for 3 hours without any troubles. Suddenly they were there.

Or maybe you, or somebody else, can point me in the right direction for good service.

Thanks

Reanimatorstudio 10th May 2012 08:43 AM

I did the mod and it is working now for more than a year!! Thanx

1- Remove the top of the unit. You should position the hub with the front faceplate towards you.
2- Locate the attachment “hub jumper” and note a PURPLE wire that goes from the power supply over to a trace
on the main board.
3- Look at attachment “R20 Connection”. This is on the supply, just in front of the RED wire coming f the 8-pin
connector. R20 is brown in color, with the body of the resistor to the LEFT, and a loop of wire going back into the
supply board on the RIGHT.
4- Tack-solder a 3” or so wire to the top of the wire loop on R20. DO NOT SHORT THIS TO ANY OTHER
COMPONENTS!!! The caps and small inductor near the resistor can be gently pushed a bit out of the way.
5- See attachment “main bd conn”. With an exacto knife or similar tool, scrape back about 1?2 “ of conformal
coating on the trace shown. NOTE THIS TRACE IS DIRECTLY SHORTED TO THE RED WIRE COMING FROM THE
MULTIPIN CONNECTOR. You can use a meter to ohm out this point just to make sure.
6- Tack-solder the other end of the wire to the trace. Make sure it does not short to the trace to the left of it.
7- Plug up the AC cord, STAY AWAY FROM THE SUPPLY and apply power. The clock LED should come on green with
the unit in analog mode.
8- Unplug from the wall, replace the top.
9- Have a cup of coffee or a beer........job well done!

Padje 10th May 2012 09:22 AM

Thanks for the info

mjdemaris 5th August 2012 06:51 PM

Red, Green on Rocky Road
 
We've had a Hearback for a couple of years and it ran fine. Until this morning. As I powered up the SRS for church service, the clock bus indicator light came on red, and stayed red. I could get it to change to green for a few seconds by playing with some knobs, but that's it.

After reading through this thread, my question is: is this a similar problem to what you have experienced and does this MOD fix this particular problem?

Thanks!

pacallo 20th July 2014 10:48 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Reanimatorstudio (Post 6654734)
I've had it for 3 years. Now it stops working every 10 minutes while the power supply is OK. I phoned 2 distributors and mailed Hear technologies 2 times. Got no answers. Session with 5 studio musicians failed. Such an important piece of gear but you can not rely on it nor on it's support.

Don't read any further: support is great if you know the right guy and tornados stay away.


I did the mod and it is working now for more than a year!! Thanx

1- Remove the top of the unit. You should position the hub with the front faceplate towards you.
2- Locate the attachment “hub jumper” and note a PURPLE wire that goes from the power supply over to a trace
on the main board.
3- Look at attachment “R20 Connection”. This is on the supply, just in front of the RED wire coming f the 8-pin
connector. R20 is brown in color, with the body of the resistor to the LEFT, and a loop of wire going back into the
supply board on the RIGHT.
4- Tack-solder a 3” or so wire to the top of the wire loop on R20. DO NOT SHORT THIS TO ANY OTHER
COMPONENTS!!! The caps and small inductor near the resistor can be gently pushed a bit out of the way.
5- See attachment “main bd conn”. With an exacto knife or similar tool, scrape back about 1?2 “ of conformal
coating on the trace shown. NOTE THIS TRACE IS DIRECTLY SHORTED TO THE RED WIRE COMING FROM THE
MULTIPIN CONNECTOR. You can use a meter to ohm out this point just to make sure.
6- Tack-solder the other end of the wire to the trace. Make sure it does not short to the trace to the left of it.
7- Plug up the AC cord, STAY AWAY FROM THE SUPPLY and apply power. The clock LED should come on green with
the unit in analog mode.
8- Unplug from the wall, replace the top.
9- Have a cup of coffee or a beer........job well done!


I have this problem on my hub hear back please let me help you with some sample photos are not an electrician thank you in advance