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Originally Posted by
Stewix
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Maybe I'm simply "worried" by the fact that I own a budget pre (Fredenstein VAS Mic Pre), having often read that with "hungry gain dynamics" the preamp quality (and clean gain availability) has a big "impact" on the sound (and having also somewhat tested this with my brother's SM7B)...
"Hungry gain dynamics"? It never ceases to amaze me the rubbish terminology people come up with.
Don't overcomplicate it. Lower output mics need more gain. If you don't have gain, you won't get enough level out of it. You can calculate the required gain based on the specifications.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Stewix
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And one of my HOPES, when it comes to the RE20, is that less gain is needed when literally "kissing it"...
Well, you can hope, but it's not going to work out that way.
Here's how it works:
A mic sensitivity spec is rated as a level (in millivolts, dBV or dBU) at an absolute sound pressure of 1 Pascal, which translates to 94dB SPL. So, when a 94dB SPL sound hits the front grill of an RE20, the mic produces 1.5mV. That voltage converts to -54.2dBU. For that sound to produce a studio reference level of +4dBU, the preamp needs to amplify it 54.2dB to get to 0dBU, then another 4dB to get it to +4dBU for a total 58.2dB of gain for standard balanced line level. If the device your preamp feeds needs less than that, you just apply less gain.
Your preamp can provide up to 65dB of gain. All looks good so far, right? More than enough gain? Not quite. Remember that 1 Pascal/94dB SPL sound? What produces that? I think you were recording speech, right? "Normal" human speech at a distance of 1 foot comes in at about 70dB SPL. So, to get that sound up to +4dBU, you need 82.2dB of gain! Yikes, that's a lot! Does any preamp do that? Sure, but not many. But hang on, we're not done yet.
The basic way SPL works is, if you cut the distance from the source to the mic (or ear) in half, you increase SPL by 6dB. Cut the distance in half again, you get another 6dB. So, if you start talking at 1 foot away from the mic, then move to 6", you increase the level 6dB. Move to 3", up you go another 6dB. That's 12dB more level just by moving in. That puts your need for gain back to 70dB, which is reasonable, but not quite what your preamp does. See what "kissing it" does? It should be obvious that moving away does the same thing in reverse; double the distance, loose 6dB, etc. Works with speakers and ears too.
How is the SM58 different? To start with it's output at 1 Pascal/94dB SPL is -54dBV, so we already have a problem in that the two mics are specified using a different reference, dBV vs mV. But it's not a problem to convert. -54dBV is easily converted to -52.3dBU. And looking at that in comparison to the RE20, it starts out at 2dB higher output at the same distance. So, again moving in closer, the SM58 will aways have a 2dB higher output advantage over the RE20, and technically, you'd need 2dB less gain to hit studio reference level.
So unfortunately, the RE20 is not going to help you stay farther back from the mic. However, since it has much less proximity effect, it will sound more natural at 3" than the SM58, which will boost lows at that distance.
Back to your preamp, though. It might seem like it's at least 5dB short of having enough gain, but perhaps not. It depends on what comes next. If you go into a mixer, there's always an input gain control where you can pick up a few dB, no problem. If you go into an audio interface, same thing, there's usually an input gain control you can lift a bit. And finally, going back to your original post, you're singing! The singing voice is almost always louder than the speaking voice, sometimes a whole lot louder. You could easily end up turning down your preamp gain, but your reference here is your SM58. The RE20 will not be louder, it will be 2dB lower, at the same distance.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Stewix
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I've got also a KT2A (an LA2A budget clone), which can come in handy when more gain is needed...
Sure. And you might try a little more here, a little less there...play with it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Stewix
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But this is all budget and colored gear; which, when paired with a somewhat "dark" and "transformer-coupled" mic (not necessarily talking about the RE20), could very quickly become too much, if one does not pay enough attention when gain staging,...
Oh wait now. Transformer coupled mics are not "dark" by definition. Do you think a U87 is dark? Nope. Transformer. Budget gear is not "dark" either, just because it costs less. You know, the fact is, it's darn hard to build a mic preamp that isn't pretty spectacular and transparent. And as I've said a whole lot lately, preamps don't add color, mics and acoustics do. If you want deliberate electronic color, grab and EQ and compressor.
Gain Staging....this hangs on the ragged edge of mythology. It's like people think changing gain alters the color or something. Wow. I sure hope not! If it does, you have true junk in your hands. What gain staging is supposed to do is optimize your total dynamic range by ideally getting each stage to clip at the same point. So if you wang the gain on your preamp all the way up, kiss the mic and sing your heart out, the preamp is likely to clip. If the next device it feeds is many dB away from clipping under those conditions, you haven't "gain staged" (I'm starting to really hate the term now) because the preamp is your limiting factor. For most pro level gear, "gain staging" (yup, officially hating it) has already mostly been done for you by virtue of level standards. Your preamp clips at +26, and it has an input gain and a meter. If you were going next into a Motu M2, you'd adjust the input gain on the M2 according to its meter, and not drive it into clipping. Gain. Staged. If your next device was a Mackie 1202VLZ4 (I'm just pulling stuff out of thin air here), the maximum line input is +22, so you bump the pre down 4dB, and you're done.
But the key point here is, gain changes gain, not color. More gain brings up input noise, less brings it down. Match the points of overload of each device in the chain, and you have both maximized total system peak level, and minimized system noise.
One last word on "color". Hating that one too. But anyway, "color" is made of primarily of two different things. First is frequency response. This is the brighter/darker/warmer/cooler thing. All are easily achieved with EQ, learning exactly how takes a bit of effort. The second part of "color" is distortion (caused by level moving into transformer saturation), and that comes in many flavors. People assume transformers add distortion, and that is partially correct under certain conditions, but transformers at mic levels are very clean. Transformers operated at or below design parameters are nearly distortionless. But if you stress them, like push too much level into a low-level transformer, you get two kinds of distortion. First, harmonic distortion, a mix but mostly odd-order harmonics dropping in level as their order goes up, with much more distortion happening at very low frequencies. That's a little bit of color, but the big one is intermodulation distortion, literally one sound modulating another. Typically strong bass frequencies amplitude-modulating high frequencies giving the sound a gritty, growly, gravely color. This happens strongly with abused transformers, and is quite audible. I'm not sure why anyone would think it's good, though. And it is something transformer designers have beating out of their designs pretty well. But that, and frequency response changes, is "color". And nothing you can't do with a plugin. But please understand it's not easy to abuse a line-level transformer, and nearly impossible at mic levels. The classic one everybody pays hundreds for, the WE 111C, doesn't begin to "color" anything until you slam audio that averages over +22dBu, and not many devices will even do that.
I'd put transformers on the growing list of devices that don't do enough to improve or damage audio to warrant the trouble and cost, at least, not without a whole lot of fuss.