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Kiwi Audio (Jeff Hedback-designed) - Recording Studio Build (Chicago suburb)
Old 28th November 2012
Gear Maniac
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Kiwi Audio (Jeff Hedback-designed) - Recording Studio Build (Chicago suburb)

I've been a long time "studio build stalker" on these forums, and it's time for my contribution. It's been a long time coming actually. 10 years of dreaming, 7 years of planning, and the project is underway!! Actually, we were able to break ground towards the end of May 2012.

A very brief back story.
Years ago I moved into an older farmhouse about an hr west of Chicago. I knew I wanted to someday put a small studio out here. I've since been collecting gear and created a mix room that was able to bring in a sustainable living for years. For tracking projects I would use other rooms in the house. It's been very much a "living room" studio.

A few years later I stumbled on Jeff Hedback of HdAcoustics. Jeff is a great guy! I know he often peruses these forums commenting from time to time (so Jeff if you're out there...feel free to chime in!)

Anyway, after talking with Jeff about my current mix space, I hired him on to help deal with some acoustical issues I was having. We were working with an extremely small room, and given my goals for the space had some work to do. Employing Jeff on my small room was the best money I had spent!

So we started discussing bringing Jeff on to design a new facility. This new space would be built from the ground up, giving Jeff the freedom to design, then we would tweak together to achieve our goals. So far there have been many instances of "extreme thinking outside the box"....on both our parts.

Our philosophy is simple. Build a space that is acoustically as perfect and appealing as possible, then fill it with gear! The only drawback is $$. We are on a budget...but that's where the fun part comes in...

So here we are. 6 months in. I'll very quickly bring this thread up to speed (don't worry...we have only just begun the frame-out of the studio, so you won't miss any of the build-out slutyness).

Here is few pics of the plot of land where the studio will sit. There used to be an old barn crib that sat on this exact location...40 years ago. The old foundation is still sitting there (covered in weeds).

** I do plan on turning the old grain silo into a reverb chamber...

More to follow...
Old 28th November 2012
Gear Maniac
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Removing old foundation

Something I forgot to mention...

Early on, I decided this would be extremely heavy in the DIY department. Over the last number of years I have changed day job occupation from trade to trade, learning what I felt I needed to in order to be able to provide the manual labor required to take on this build. Over the past 3 years I spent 1 year as as a plumber/mechanical maintenance manager (learning and installing HUGE plumbing facilities, and also gaining experience on heavy machinery) and 2 years as a residential electrician. My boss at the electrical contractor spent 25 years as a framing I used this to my advantage . With that said, I have done everything I possibly could myself. There have been a few things I wasn't able to do (do to country requirements and time constraints...more on that later).

Anyway, this build promises to follow very near the footsteps of Neil over at Amish Electric Chair...his build has been extremely inspiring to watch!!

Moving forward...
After a lot of time spent thinking on if we could pour our new slab on top of the existing one, we decided to remove the old. The existing foundation was in bad shape in certain spots, but for the most time still intact...and EXTREMELY thick!! The footing walls extended more than 8' under ground (frost line here is 46").

It took 8 dump truck loads to remove the existing foundation. The original slab was almost 9" thick.

After the 8th truck load, we decided to go a different save time and $$.
The perspective on this hole we dug was very hard to achieve. The hole began as 16' deep...the deepest we could go with the backhoe. In this image, the top of the concrete is still 7' under grade.

Here you can see the old farmhouse and garage. We are on 197 acres of corn and soybeans (what we farm). The house is on a plot of 4 acres. You can see a good chunk of the land in the above images.

Burying the old concrete actually helped us in 2 ways. First we didn't have to truck out the old concrete, and 2nd the hole we dug supplied us with enough dirt to bring the site up to grade. This specific site was chosen because it's the highest on the property, so drainage will naturally not be a problem. There were a few low spots though, so the dirt from the hole gave us enough to accomplish what we needed.
Old 28th November 2012
Gear Maniac
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Bringing site up to grade

After the concrete removed, we established grade. We also cored out the driveway/parking area for the new building.

This image was taken on the roof of the old farmhouse. It shows a nice view of the property...also a great shot of the proximity of the building to the silo

This is a shot from 1 the north end of the site.

*May 2012
Old 28th November 2012
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Building begins...

So given our location...rural Illinois (1 hr west of Chicago) I decided to build a building that would fit in with the aesthetic of the neighborhood.

With that in mind, I decided to build a post-frame building. From a framing standpoint, one of the simplest structures to build. This building was re-engineered to withstand the high winds we frequently get out in here, and also a few other upgrades were made (mainly to do with the foundation...more on this later).

With a post-frame building, we did introduce some hurdles to over come. As with any build, we took them in stride. (details later).

The actual construction of the building is 1 part I did hire out. I've regretted that decision since the day the crew started. Long story short, their "standards of quality" were not in line with mine, however MOST of the issues were remedied with minimal stress.

The buildings inside dimensions are as follows. 64' length, 36' width, 14' height (concrete to bottom chord of trusses). I was very determined to have higher ceilings in the studio space, so the 14' was our starting point.

**I have HUNDREDS of pictures of the building process. If anyone is interested in more details on the post-frame process, just let me know. Here are the basics.

Here is the framing of the porch that will become the buildings main entrance.

*Mid June 2012.
Old 28th November 2012
Gear Head
I'm In

Subscribing sir, cant wait to see more.
Old 28th November 2012
Lives for gear
Nice start! Keep those photos coming!
Old 29th November 2012
Gear Maniac
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Concrete prep...

Looking back thru some pictures, I found a good one of how the foundation of a post frame building works.

Basically, you auger a hole down below frost line (in my area 46"...we went 50") and place the "Posts" into the hole. (there is actually a concrete footing at the bottom of the hole, roughly 4" thick). Plumb them up, add some supports, back-fill with dirt, rinse and repeat.

The standard post frame column is made of treated lumber. I opted for the concrete with re-bar option. This adds to structural strength, plus there is no wood under ground rotting away as time goes by.

Another thing we added for structural strength is a "down turned edge" of concrete around the perimeter. Since the basic post frame building is "slab on grade" we wanted to add whatever we could to minimize the chance of frost heave beneath the slab without having to do a complete footing and wall combination. With this technique (widely used across the country) we successfully raised the frost line beneath the building to 18" below grade.

To help with the work, we rented a mini. Spent a lot of time with this little guy (and his big brother later on).

Here's a good shot of the trench around the perimeter. Averaged about 28" deep.

Add rigid insulation to insulate the perimeter of the slab...this also helps raise the frost line.

Here's a great shot of the concrete portion of the columns...remember these end up sitting on a footing 50" below grade.

I asked an excavating contractor friend how much he'd charge to do this work....needless to say we rented the mini and knocked it out. This portion only took about 12 hrs. Unfortunately we did this over one of the weekends where we hit over 100 degrees in Chicago...with 95% humidity But we saved a good chunk of $$.
Old 29th November 2012
Gear Maniac
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Underground plumbing and re-established grade

We had the mini for a week, so in addition to the down turned edge for the pad, we also dug the trench for the plumbing, and brought the water line into the building. We're on a well and septic system out here, so the plumbing was easy. The county didn't give us any issues here....yet.

Here we dug the trench for plumbing, then filled in with gravel. The close pipe is the toilet, then you can see the shower and vent pipe. In the distance is the cleanout. The septic tank will be outside the far wall, with leach field nearby.

I called my excavator to come out and re-grade the inside. He added 4" of stone. He left me his compactor for the weekend, so we compacted to our hearts content. We also get some steal sheeting on the exterior walls.

Here you can see the South side of the building. The opening will be the future 18'w X 12'H overhead door leading into the garage portion of the building. This will be used for load-in/load-out of gear...large enough for most trailers to pull into and out of the lovely Chicago weather. A big plus!!

*Beginning of July 2012
Old 29th November 2012
Gear Maniac
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Radiant Floor....

One of the best decisions I've made so far....radiant floor heat. When installed properly (and it's really hard to mess this one up), the most comfortable heat, and quite possibly the most efficient.

The building is divided into 4 zones. Tracking room, Control room, Garage, Lounge. Each zone has numerous "circuits or loops" for a total of over 3000' of 1/2" tubing. We chose to do this on the hottest weekend in Chicago this year. 107 + the humidity only Chicago can offer!!

Rolls and Rolls of reflective bubble wrap (in it's basic form). This was rolled out and seams taped. This insulated the bottom of the concrete pad and also reflects 95% of the radiant heat back up into the pad (thus heating the rooms above).

We then laid a 6"x6" mesh grid...very helpful for laying out the zones and something to tie the tubing to. 3000'+ later and a few thousand zipties...

Here is where the circuits will penetrate the concrete slab. In the distance to the left, you can see the tubing "suspended" above the down turned edge mentioned earlier.

And pressure test to 45 PSI.
Old 29th November 2012
Gear Maniac
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Unfortunately, I left for a vacation with my wife the early morning of the day the concrete was poured. So because of this, all I have of this day is a very pour quality image taken from a window in the farmhouse. I did capture the days events in time lapse video though....

*Mid July 2012

I did have my dad (who has been a HUGE help in this project) stop by and cover the concrete with tarps...and water the slab while I was on vacation. We kept the slab under water for 27 days. Everything I encountered said 21 days for concrete to cure. Keeping it wet slows the process and allows for an even cure throughout. Any concrete experts out there what to chime in?

About a month later we pulled the tarps. During that period I piped some overhead lighting (temporary electrical) and the exterior sheeting was finished. Windows and doors were installed in the lounge area (and emergency exit door on the opposite side).

And the grand reveal of the exterior!! Like I said, I wanted to keep with the aesthetic of the neighborhood...what better way than to build a big red barn next to an old grain silo?? I think it turned out great!

*Beginning of August 2012
Old 29th November 2012
Gear Maniac
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Underground Plumbing and Electrical

Approaching the end of August 2012 so we rented some more heavy equipment. A 50" deep trencher and a larger backhoe for the underground electrical and underground waterline.

Here's a shot of the slightly larger backhoe...this one had AC in the cab.

A few years ago I was looking into buying a Mazda RX8. I loved that car. Reason got the best of me though, so I bought a truck instead. Turns out I made the right decision....

Here's my dad on the trencher. 300' trench for the electrical. Being at this point in my life an electrician, and having to do this sort of work, material costs + labor for this amount of work = >6,000$. Add setting the service and installing the panel and we're right about 10,000$...and that's a competitive price, non union. What can I say...everything more expensive in Illinois.

We were able to come in just over 1,400$ and a weekends work for 2 people. If anyone is interested in other cost savings incurred by DIY, just ask.

The trench heads west from the driveway and turns to the left to the far side of the building.

Here's a shot of the 200A direct burial cable.

And the trench from the waterline to the well. I wanted to make sure we were below the frost line, so I dug this out with the backhoe. You can see the top of the well cover in the lower left.
Old 29th November 2012
Gear Maniac
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Overhead Door install...

Another DIY weekend project. The overhead door. 18' wide, 12' tall.

I got the door delivered and we figured out the rest. Saved 950$. Hey..that's an API 500 series pre!!

All the hardware...

*Don't judge me by the pitiful screwdriver sitting on the table. I found that out in the gravel earlier that day. Must have fallen out of one of the framers pouches...(you can judge them by the screwdriver)

Panels and springs...

This is key...

Finished and functional. Contrary to popular can install an overhead door yourself...and you can wind the springs yourself. Just a bit of common sense is involved. After we finished the door my dad looked at me and said..."I will never call a garage door service guy again". I'll drink to that.

*Beginning of Sept 2012
Old 29th November 2012
Gear Maniac
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Fast-foward a month and a half...

Various things happened inside. Electrical company came out to do the final hookup to the grid. After numerous phone calls and arguing, I had to cave in to letting them come out and do it. Paid for it too. Remember...all the prep work I did for the electrical (cost=1,400$). For the electrical company to come out cost me 1,200$!!! During my final phone call I said... "I know whats going to happen here. Your going to send 4 guys out and 3 of them are going to stand there looking towards the sky". I was right. They sent 4 guys, 4 bucket trucks. 1 guy did the work in less than an hr, but they all stayed on site for 3. Oh well...not the first struggle.

I also added some framing members inside to hold future insulation (pics later), added some exterior lighting and outlets, re graded around the building, drew up material lists and about a half dozen other things.

So now we're to the 1st layer of insulation for the building (2nd if you count the concrete insulation).

After much thought and back and forth, I decided to go with SPF insulation. Spray Polyurethane Foam. SPF comes in 2 different types. Open cell, and closed cell. I opted for the closed cell due to a few reasons.

1-Supplies the building with an absolute moisture and vapor barrier. (when installing a minimum thickness of 2" in our region)
2-Adds significant rigidity to the building (1 major drawback of post frame construction...very loud in rain and wind).
3-provides a much needed "pest control" barrier. I'm in the middle of a crop fields here...when the harvest comes in, the mice come with it seeking new shelter.
4-Fills every crack and crevice meaning no draft.
5-Gives a TRUE R-Value. A 1" thick closed cell SPF provides and R value of 6.9. I had 2" sprayed on all walls and the underside of the roof.

The downsides. It's EXPENSIVE!! And it's even more expensive to DIY. And to do in the quantity that I needed, you have to be licensed to purchase the material. Unfortunately in my years I hadn't made friends with anyone who had such license.

So after much thought, we pulled the trigger. The pros far outweighed the cons.

I mentioned the rigidity the SPF would add. In constant talks with Jeff Hedback (designer) he ultimately made the decision that IF we went the route of SPF, we could scale down certain aspects of the interior wall and ceiling isolation systems. Basically meaning less material (drywall and green glue) and much less time in constructing and finishing the interior walls. So I hit the books, calculated out the cost difference.

Non SPF with original isolation plans vs SPF with scaled down isolation. The difference came out to be roughly a 3500$ investment for the SPF. So we pulled the trigger.

We prepped the space to be sprayed. Tarped everything (including the overhead door, tracks, and springs). Then the SPF guys rolled in.

I had to heat the building over the weekend in order to keep the steel at the right temperature for the SPF to stick. Multiple trips to the propane shop for bottles, and sleeping in 2-hr shifts to refill.

Mix the red barrel with the white barrel upon leaving the nozzle, apply heat and presto.

There is an art to spraying SPF. This guy did an amazing job! He sprayed the walls in 1 day, then it took 2 guys to spray the underside of the roof.

The gap filler "Great Stuff" is a form of "Closed Cell Foam". What I got is very very similar.

It wasn't all fun and games though. Unknown to me, and the guy spraying, something happened while he was spraying. To this day the reason behind what happened has not been determined. I noticed a day late.

The SPF foam is supposed to take the path or "least resistance" while it is expanding...and it expands fast. This stuff is dry to the touch within minutes after spraying. Well, some foam got between the interior framing and the exterior sheeting and "pushed" the sheeting out, instead of pushing the foam in. So from the outside, if you look close enough, you can see ridges along the entire face of the building....

What a disaster.

Before SPF.

After SPF.

Certain lighting brings it out better (sunlight vs overcast). It's an interesting situation...and the guy spraying and everyone else at the company cannot explain why it happened.

In a nutshell, after numerous discussions we were discounted the product. So we got the SPF insulation for no additional cost (vs doing fiberglass and the original isolation systems). Unfortunately everytime I pull in the driveway I notice those ridges.... but I'll get over it someday due to the cost discount!!! (when using the in that sense, I really look like an a-hole)
Old 29th November 2012
Gear Maniac
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Framing begins

It's now late October 2012. We spent a weekend and framed the lounge, kitchenette, bathroom. Above this ancillary space is a loft (accessed from the garage).

Perhaps it's about time I share a very rudimentary building layout?

This was a very early on block out by Jeff. I knew that I wanted to have a good sized garage space. That was all that was set in place when I gave him the freedom to design. Before walls and such, the studio footprint will end up just over 1400sf. This is not counting the ancillary or garage area.

I will work on editing the finalized footprint (taking out all the trade secrets) to post soon. I promise...the studio is not comprised of squares, rectangles, and parallel walls.

Here's the ancillary framing. 8' ceilings in the ancillary. The rough dimensions are 24' length, 14' width for the ancillary area. The kitchenette and bathroom are at the far end. You can also see the horizontal interior framing that will be used to hold fiberglass in place. (adding fiberglass on top of SPF will indeed add R-value to the space).

And the loft above (with knee wall for safety).

That plastic level has since snapped in half. Someone left that in my garage. It's been replaced with something of higher quality.
Old 29th November 2012
Gear Maniac
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We have heat!!

Welcome to November 2012. It's getting cold here and fast. After lots of layout planning, copper sweating, pex crimping, and pressure testing we are ready to fire up the radiant floor.

Here are all the pumps, supply, and return manifolds assembled.

And the finished system (sorry for the poor quality of the image). We opted for a tankless water heater. (the big white box on the wall) Overall more efficient in the long run, and instant hot water for making tea!! (and other reasons).

I hooked up the 4 thermostats in rough locations throughout the room. The thermostat monitors the slab temp and the ambient air temp. After 2 days, the slab was heated. After 4 days, the building was to hot. I heated to 61 degrees F. I've since turned the thermostats down to 59, and the slab has maintained a steady temp of 63F. It really is a nice, comfortable, and even heat.
Old 29th November 2012
Lives for gear
12thStreetSound's Avatar

I don't even know where to start to give you "props." Just fantastic work.
Old 29th November 2012
Gear Maniac
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Lots to share!!

Soon after I got the heat going, I decided to use the space to make my Halloween Costume (we had a late party to attend). I think it turned out pretty good!!

I also got the rough electrical wrapped up in the ancillary. I pulled all the wire, made up the splices and tied in the lighting circuits for some much needed light!!

We also framed the wall that separates the ancillary area from the studio proper. This wall sits on LMB so the only contact point of this wall to the concrete is the anchor points. We also added LMB between the ancillary framing and this entry hall wall (not called for, but we had some extra LMB and thought it be best).

We also insulated the ancillary walls (adding fiberglass on top of the SPF, also insulation the interior walls (separating the garage, garage, and bathroom).

Add drywall to the ancillary area (5/8" all around).

* The kitchenette will be in the alcove under the window, bathroom just to the right. The other door will lead into the garage.

And finally installed the septic leech field. This had to be hired out (to my excavator friend)...required by the county. Apparently they don't want toilet water to just go anywhere....

As we current stand with the county, I am building my PRIVATE music space/man cave/garage. We're in the process of changing the counties view to a private recording facility, but there are many many hurdles to overcome. So we recommended installing 200' of leech field and a 1000 gallon septic tank. They thought it was way over sized for a "garage" but I made sure we went ahead as planned. After all...we had the space to do so.
Old 29th November 2012
Gear Maniac
Kiwi Audio's Avatar

Originally Posted by 12thStreetSound View Post
I don't even know where to start to give you "props." Just fantastic work.
Thanks for the kind words! I have been watching your build since you began. Nothing short of amazing! I have friends out in Dallas, I'd love to drop in and see your space in person!! (I know it's a little bit of a hike...but if I'm coming from Chicago, whats a few more hours!?!)

It's builds like yours that give me hope that there is still a viable source of income in our industry!

Old 29th November 2012
Gear Maniac
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In Progress!!

We're caught up! Wow 6 months sure flies by!

Here's what we accomplished today.

The back half (studio half) needed to be cleaned out, to begin plating the studio walls.

We start with the 1st isolation layer. Perimeter walls, sheeted 1 side, lifted into place. Yesterday we plated these walls (LMB between concrete and plates). We got them to within 1/16th of an inch square. I can live with that .

I also started layering the fiberglass insulation on top of the SPF in the back half. Lots of fiberglass.

* The orange ladder is a 6' ladder...for a little perspective of our height!!!

A quick note on the SPF insulation. When I was talking with the company about the specs of their product, I was told that by adding 2" I would be adding an STC of 50 to my existing structure. "That's a far stretch" was my response.

With some inquiring, I was able to get a copy of their test data. I forwarded this on to Jeff for his analysis so we wouldn't have any surprises. Needless to say, their testing data was way bizarre. For starters, their test sample was a 2x6 wall cavity, filled with closed cell SPF, sheeted with 2 layers 5/8" drywall both sides (sound somewhat familiar??). Their test sample is not out of the ordinary, however the company I dealt with had no idea the sample tested or the test method. With that sample, they were able to achieve their STC 50...but not across the freq spectrum. There were a few other "issues" with their testing that I won't get into.

We did our own tests, before and after SPF. With Jeff's coaching, I measured an STC 17-20 prior to adding the SPF. After the SPF we moved up to an SPF 28-32. Not quite the STC 50 they had touted...but like I mentioned before, the benefits of the SPF are incredible!!
Old 29th November 2012
Gear Maniac
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Here's a nice shot I found on my phone of the placement of the to the future 50+ ft tall reverb chamber.

A little bit about why I decided to make it look like a barn. Just like any studio out there, this studio isn't going to be the studio for every client. From an advertising standpoint, I'm really not sure how we are going to go about it. It's been the stance for years of the idea that from the outside, it's clearly not a studio. So the conversation isn't

"Hey, there's a recording studio in there!"

but is rather,

"Hey, did you know there's a recording studio in there?!"

So that's why we chose a barn.

Also, I'd like to define the "we" I keep referring to.

We =

Me. Brad. 29.
My crazy awesome wife who supports this en devour more than I do.
My dad, a long time musician (since retired from music), and had a dream 20 years ago of building a recording studio in the basement of his house. He started, but us kids made it our playroom instead...which is where I got the itch.

Then I'll constantly refer to Jeff and his team of masterminds as a part of "we". I told Jeff early on that I wanted him to design a space that he was truly proud of, and to think of it as his studio. I think he has done just that. I had a brief conversation of him today and he said "man...I looked back at the graphs of the CR...that is a great sounding room". (paraphrased). Jeff's commitment and support to this project is unmeasurable.

Well...on to another day!!
Old 29th November 2012
Gear Maniac
Kiwi Audio's Avatar

Updated Layout

Here's where we ended up with on our layout. Jeff designed the control room to be the best possible room it could be, given our goals. He is confident he achieved this.

The 2 booths will have totally acoustics...which I'm really really excited about .

One of our primary goals was sight lines. Once I get the OK from Jeff, I'll show some of the 3D renderings that portray the sight lines this space was designed around. Lots of big expensive windows....

Old 29th November 2012
Lives for gear

How will you be, or are you, anchoring the interior walls to the slab? If you drill and anchor, knowing the hoses are in the slab, how would you avoid them?
Old 29th November 2012
Gear Addict
Downsound's Avatar

Hi Brad - WOW! Awesome job so far. I will be checking in daily to see your progress! I myself live in the west suburbs of Chicago (Downers Grove), so I would love to come by and visit someday. If you EVER need ONE MORE GUY for a heavy lift, or really anything at all, PM me and I can help (with a framing nailer and screw gun!). Very excited for this build and it's looking great! Scott
Old 29th November 2012
Lives for gear
12thStreetSound's Avatar

Originally Posted by Kiwi Audio View Post
I have friends out in Dallas, I'd love to drop in and see your space in person!!
You're welcome any time.

We can commiserate on the highs and lows of studio construction.
Old 30th November 2012
Gear Head

Looks great. I'll have to take a field trip sometime!
Old 30th November 2012
Lives for gear
Jens Eklund's Avatar
Looks great!
Old 30th November 2012
Gear Addict

a couple super geeky studies

Hey Brad,

Great diary start. You're not only a crazy "take all challenges" client, but a great storyteller! This is really fun to read and I know the story.

Here are a couple BEM studies. One is a predictive LF response (two omni point source speakers) and I have three mic locations: ~mix, ~client & the lower right rear corner (to see resonant peaks). This study includes a very safe estimation of about half of the trapping that will be in the room and has no smoothing. The other study is a 60Hz horizontal pressure study at 18" above the finished floor. For the curious, I use ABEC for these studies. The room took roughly 3 hours to "build" and each study is taking just slightly less than an hour to solve.

The deviations within each curve are excellent and the consistency between each curve is a great indicator.

Brad's workflow, desire for lots of glass and open site-lines, his Barefoot speakers and the future inclusion of full-range surround monitoring were driving factors of this CR design. It is an RFZ room model.
Attached Thumbnails
Kiwi Audio (Jeff Hedback-designed) - Recording Studio Build (Chicago suburb)-kiwi_bem-predictive-lf-study.jpg   Kiwi Audio (Jeff Hedback-designed) - Recording Studio Build (Chicago suburb)-kiwi_bem_60hz-horizontal-study.jpg  
Old 30th November 2012
Very cool! Best of luck with the build.
Old 3rd December 2012
Gear Maniac
Kiwi Audio's Avatar

Originally Posted by OpusOfTrolls View Post
How will you be, or are you, anchoring the interior walls to the slab? If you drill and anchor, knowing the hoses are in the slab, how would you avoid them?
Great question. I anchored the plates for the 1st isolation layer this weekend. Here are a few images.

My slab is 5" thick...and as far as I know, the radiant tubing is down at the bottom of the slab (thousands of zip ties hold the tubing to wire mesh).


We squared up our plates and drilled a 5/8" hole in the plate (with mass loaded vinyl between concrete and 2x6 plate).

Then a 5/8" hole into the concrete...2" depth.

Cut some piece of re-bar at 3-1/2". (2" into concrete, 1-1/4" into plate. This allows the re-bar to be flush with the top of the plate.

Added some concrete rated adhesive into the hole, tapped re-bar in with hammer, and presto. Once the adhesive dries, that plate isn't going anywhere.

*(the glue on the surface of the plate will be cleaned off for a nice flush connection)

Then each wall section will be framed like a typical wall. The bottom plate of the wall section will then be glued and nailed to the plate anchored to the concrete...resulting in a double bottom plate.
Old 3rd December 2012
Gear Maniac
Kiwi Audio's Avatar

Originally Posted by Downsound View Post
Hi Brad - WOW! Awesome job so far. I will be checking in daily to see your progress! I myself live in the west suburbs of Chicago (Downers Grove), so I would love to come by and visit someday. If you EVER need ONE MORE GUY for a heavy lift, or really anything at all, PM me and I can help (with a framing nailer and screw gun!). Very excited for this build and it's looking great! Scott
Thanks for the kind words! You're always welcome to stop in and see how we're progressing! I'll probably take you up on your heavy lifting skills!!
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