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tascam uh7000 Audio Interfaces
Old 20th May 2015
  #91
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monkeyxx's Avatar
You can use the UH-7000 as a DAC in standalone mode. You just configure it on your computer, then it "remembers" where it was and you can leave the USB unplugged.

Interfacing the XLR SPDIF with an RCA on the other end is not too hard. Just set the digital section to "SPDIF" in the Tascam control software, and use a special XLR-RCA cable to make the connection. I posted the cable in another UH-7000 thread. It only uses two of the 3 pins on the XLR end. Pin 2 of XLR goes to the TIP of the RCA, and pin 3 goes to the SLEEVE (ground) of the RCA. Pin 1 of the XLR is not connected.
Old 20th May 2015
  #92
m_b
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A big thanks for your help
Old 21st May 2015
  #93
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JLiRD808's Avatar
Quote:
I like the price of the Lynx cable, but I need ~4-5'.

Looks like I'll need to spend closer to $30-40?

Pro Co 5' PDRXM-5 Premium Digital Cable - 5' RCA-XLRM | Sweetwater.com <--touts neutrik and Canare DA202 110-ohm

TecNec SPDIF AES 6 Cable, SPDIF/AES Adapter, SPDIF-AES-6 | Full Compass

THANKS!
Old 21st May 2015
  #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcus Mars View Post
I actually think mine sounds better with the unlinked setting, but in order to use it like that it is important not to miss both channels pan settings and spread them out, otherwise you'll hear basically a mono signal output.

This thing sounds so good though that when I first got it I didn't even notice that the mixer was running in mono for a good 20 minutes or so lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by Melodicmusic View Post
I just tried it in unlink mode panning one channel hard right and the other channel hard left and it makes everything sound louder and with more space. When I link the channels it takes the volume down a little but it puts this nice mellow or warm sound to the channels when linked.
Interesting....is the only difference between linking/unlinking the stereo out a bit of gain then? Melodicmusic, you seem to notice a space and warmth difference too.

I'm playing around with it, but it's difficult to A/B since it requires a couple of steps to go back-n-forth.

Just curious what other people's thoughts might be
Old 21st May 2015
  #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLiRD808 View Post
Interesting....is the only difference between linking/unlinking the stereo out a bit of gain then? Melodicmusic, you seem to notice a space and warmth difference too.

I'm playing around with it, but it's difficult to A/B since it requires a couple of steps to go back-n-forth.

Just curious what other people's thoughts might be
When you use the link button it reduces the volume a little but adds a small amount of stereo width. With it unlinked and panned hard left and right it has more volume and sounds more in your face but with added stereo depth. I prefered it unlinked because of the added headroom but linked had a better stereo width and space. Hope that helps.
Old 21st May 2015
  #96
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monkeyxx's Avatar
The Line Link button runs the analog outputs through the headphone amp circuitry I believe I read. So you're getting an extra analog stage, an active one, which will add some THD and whatnot. I'm running mine this way currently and I do like it. I just think of it as an active monitor controller. Which is free because it's already there at the push of a tiny button.

I do not prefer running any DAC through a potentiometer, like the SM Pro M Patch, the TC Level Pilot, any similar devices to those. I find that they muddy up the tone a bit in a way I've come to not like. Something like the Drawmer MC2.1 looks more promising, but I have yet to try it, since my system is fully functional already with my current setup. I am also curious about a 4-gang rotary switch with a variable resistor-ladder H-Pad as a passive attenuator. This would give better in and out impedances than a simple stereo potentiometer. I haven't heard this yet either, but, I am hearing some line level H-Pad XLR attenuator plugs on the back end of my Tascam, and I do think it sounds fine. So I would be pretty confident buying or building an attenuator like that.

My point is, if you are going to run in "unlinked" full level output mode, make sure your analog volume attenuator is up to snuff. Not some cheap Presonus thing or whatever. You'd probabpy be better off in Line Link mode.

At least if you're a borderline audiophile like me, haha.

Last edited by monkeyxx; 21st May 2015 at 09:03 PM..
Old 22nd May 2015
  #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tui View Post
I would have thought 110-ohm AES Cable would be the correct choice. Why don't you send Sweetwater an email and ask them.
Actually Sweetwater suggested this one, which is 75ohm AES.

I responded, and asked if this 110 ohm was ok, but have not heard back.
Old 22nd May 2015
  #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyxx View Post
The Line Link button runs the analog outputs through the headphone amp circuitry I believe I read. So you're getting an extra analog stage, an active one, which will add some THD and whatnot. I'm running mine this way currently and I do like it. I just think of it as an active monitor controller. Which is free because it's already there at the push of a tiny button.

I do not prefer running any DAC through a potentiometer, like the SM Pro M Patch, the TC Level Pilot, any similar devices to those. I find that they muddy up the tone a bit in a way I've come to not like. Something like the Drawmer MC2.1 looks more promising, but I have yet to try it, since my system is fully functional already with my current setup. I am also curious about a 4-gang rotary switch with a variable resistor-ladder H-Pad as a passive attenuator. This would give better in and out impedances than a simple stereo potentiometer. I haven't heard this yet either, but, I am hearing some line level H-Pad XLR attenuator plugs on the back end of my Tascam, and I do think it sounds fine. So I would be pretty confident buying or building an attenuator like that.

My point is, if you are going to run in "unlinked" full level output mode, make sure your analog volume attenuator is up to snuff. Not some cheap Presonus thing or whatever. You'd probabpy be better off in Line Link mode.

At least if you're a borderline audiophile like me, haha.
Total borderline audiophile here

Probly a noob question, but does running the signal to the monitors in Line Link mode thru a potentiometer cause the same muddiness? I know I could just use the headphone knob to adjust, but it simultaneously adjusts the headphones lol....not what I want.

BTW, Melodicmusic & I were actually talking about the "Link" in the Mixer Panel, the button that links "Computer 1" & "Computer 2". Have u tried playing with that option?

I'm liking this UH-7000 more and more...just getting used to it some of the quirks. Looks like I may need to buy a DI box, gain knob, and SPDF to AES cable to get this thing flowing
Old 22nd May 2015
  #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLiRD808 View Post
Total borderline audiophile here

Probly a noob question, but does running the signal to the monitors in Line Link mode thru a potentiometer cause the same muddiness? I know I could just use the headphone knob to adjust, but it simultaneously adjusts the headphones lol....not what I want.

BTW, Melodicmusic & I were actually talking about the "Link" in the Mixer Panel, the button that links "Computer 1" & "Computer 2". Have u tried playing with that option?

I'm liking this UH-7000 more and more...just getting used to it some of the quirks. Looks like I may need to buy a DI box, gain knob, and SPDF to AES cable to get this thing flowing
Oh wow. I just run it in stereo. I guess "Linked" then. Or panned apart. I don't see any difference theoretically.

Line Link mode uses the headphone knob exclusively to control volume, that is its purpose.

I don't adjust volume digitally, I only use the headphone level knob to control my volume. Digital attenuation affects the bit rate of the signal, something don't want, so I keep my attenuation in the analog domain. I guess if I were redesigning the UH-7000 I would have two volume knobs. One for the headphones, one for the analog monitor outputs... duh! But in the end it seems to work out how they did it. You never need both at the same time, anyway. It's just slightly awkward.

I agree, the UH-7000 presents a few unique challenges with interfacing. But ultimately, I admire its simplicity and build quality, even if I do need a few special cables and attenuators. I don't see the feature set as a detriment to its quality. For example, any properly equipped studio would have a few direct boxes on hand already. But it does seem to have a learning curve to it, compared to other interfaces. I love mine though! It's the best DAC I have heard in my life, for my personal taste.

I do think Tascam could do a lot better job with documentation and guides for getting people started. The manual does not even mention the correct way to use a SPDIF cable with an RCA on the other end, I mean come on Tascam!! I think they need to put down the sushi and get down and dirty with the customer base a little more.
Old 22nd May 2015
  #100
Tui
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLiRD808 View Post
Actually Sweetwater suggested this one, which is 75ohm AES.

I responded, and asked if this 110 ohm was ok, but have not heard back.
OK. I would be interested to know what they think about the 110 Ohm option. It is an issue that comes up from time to time.

The 75 Ohm lead appears to be designed specifically for the Dangerous Music D-Box, though.
Old 22nd May 2015
  #101
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My only complaint about the UH-7000 is like monkeyxx stated where it should have had two volume knobs. One to control the headphone output and one to control studio monitor output. I hate when I have to change between headphones and monitors and have to turn my JBL LSR 308's off. I guess it would not be as bad if JBL would have put the on/off in front instead of the back. Anyway I love the UH-7000 and of all the interfaces I have owned it is the best overall.
Old 27th May 2015
  #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tui View Post
OK. I would be interested to know what they think about the 110 Ohm option. It is an issue that comes up from time to time.

The 75 Ohm lead appears to be designed specifically for the Dangerous Music D-Box, though.
From Sweetwater:

Any SPDIF output connection is going to be 75ohms, so there is no need to get a cable that is rated 110. Just keep in mind that a SPDIF to AES is somewhat unbalanced, so long cable runs can cause interference and signal loss. The Dbox cable will work fine for connecting your Emu 1212m to the Tascam..

This is all VERY new to me....75ohm is for SPDIF and 110ohm is for AES/EBU? Does that mean we should use a 75ohm cable and switch the Digital Outputs Format in Mixer Panel to SPDIF?

@monkeyxx, do you have insight on which cable to use for connecting the AES/EBU to SPDIF?

Thanks!

...hopefully I haven't thread jacked, this is the most in-depth discussion of the UH-7k on the web right now
Old 27th May 2015
  #103
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monkeyxx's Avatar
I thought about it and I am upgrading to 75 ohm coax cable for my SPDIF connections.

I was using regular zero ohm balanced microphone audio cable and it works fine, but

Both the Tascam and Universal Audio state that 75-ohm cable is recommended for best performance, and is the SPDIF international standard. So that's what I'm going with. I'd like the peace of mind.

AES specifies twisted pair, 110 ohm balanced cable, and XLR termination. I believe Canare and some of the other big cable names make this kind of cable. Note that this is not the same thing as microphone cable.

I am using the UH-7000 in "SPDIF" mode in the internal settings (software control panel), so that's the cable standard I'm working with.

These are radio-frequency digital signals, so coax cable is recommended for SPDIF (like the stuff you hook up to your cable TV,) as is the proper impedance for your application (there are a few varieties you can get). The rules are different for this type of signal than a typical audio signal. Even though the connectors on the ends are familiar audio types. You could buy some coax cable from Lowes or Home Depot if you wanted to quickly and locally roll your own cables.

Last edited by monkeyxx; 27th May 2015 at 09:37 PM..
Old 27th May 2015
  #104
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monkeyxx's Avatar
Please review the "Hardware Connections" heading on this page

AES3 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Old 5th June 2015
  #105
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Bobby Digital's Avatar
 

have you ever connected a say... budget pre amp through it's line input? (VTB-1 for example or a Eureka) if so, how well did the conversion process go?
Old 5th June 2015
  #106
Tui
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Tui's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by JLiRD808 View Post
From Sweetwater:

Any SPDIF output connection is going to be 75ohms, so there is no need to get a cable that is rated 110. Just keep in mind that a SPDIF to AES is somewhat unbalanced, so long cable runs can cause interference and signal loss. The Dbox cable will work fine for connecting your Emu 1212m to the Tascam..

This is all VERY new to me....75ohm is for SPDIF and 110ohm is for AES/EBU? Does that mean we should use a 75ohm cable and switch the Digital Outputs Format in Mixer Panel to SPDIF?

@monkeyxx, do you have insight on which cable to use for connecting the AES/EBU to SPDIF?

Thanks!

...hopefully I haven't thread jacked, this is the most in-depth discussion of the UH-7k on the web right now
Well, two questions arise:

- Why does Sweetwater also sell a cable that is, on the face of it, "incorrectly" rated at 110 Ohm?

Pro Co 3' PDRXM-3 Premium Digital Cable - 3' RCA-XLRM | Sweetwater.com

- What would be the correct rating for an AES out to S/PDIF in cable - 110 Ohm, according to their logic..?
Old 5th June 2015
  #107
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monkeyxx's Avatar
If you use the UH-7000 in SPDIF mode, it is an SPDIF connection. Do not be confused. It is still on an XLR connector, but only two pins are used, and it is very much an SPDIF cable that you need.

If you switch to AES mode, well now you need an AES cable.

I have no idea what is going on with that ProCo cable.

The UH-7000 is capable of operating in either SPDIF or AES/EBU digital modes. Use the right cable for your application.
Old 6th June 2015
  #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Melodicmusic View Post
My only complaint about the UH-7000 is like monkeyxx stated where it should have had two volume knobs. One to control the headphone output and one to control studio monitor output. I hate when I have to change between headphones and monitors and have to turn my JBL LSR 308's off. I guess it would not be as bad if JBL would have put the on/off in front instead of the back. Anyway I love the UH-7000 and of all the interfaces I have owned it is the best overall.
Agreed

I use a Hosa SLW333 three position stereo line selector as a monitor controller. I have 2 sets of monitors. The third position on the selector is connected to nothing - so I just turn it to position three to kill the monitors when I am going to phones. At some point I will get a better monitor controller.

You really need some sort of monitor controller with the UH-7000.

Otherwise is a very a good unit. Sounds great.
Old 6th June 2015
  #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby Digital View Post
have you ever connected a say... budget pre amp through it's line input? (VTB-1 for example or a Eureka) if so, how well did the conversion process go?
Outboard preamp running Line In to the UH-7000 sound great. That's all I ever use.
Old 6th June 2015
  #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DougS View Post
You really need some sort of monitor controller with the UH-7000.
Haha this is my temporary "kill switch" for my monitors when I want to go to cans only. I leave the remote on my desk.

Old 28th July 2015
  #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyxx View Post
That is correct, you cannot bypass the preamps, and the line inputs go through the preamps and then into the ADC. there is no way to separate anything. I guess the Audient has the advantage there with its inserts.
When running an external preamp into the UH-7000 I would prefer to put the UH-7000's internal preamps on unity gain - in most equipment this results in the lowest THD and best signal to noise ratio. But the gain knobs on the UH-7000 have no marking for unity gain. They range from 22 through 68 (if I recall). I've been running them at about 30. Any ideas where the best setting for this would be on the UH-7000?

I checked the manual -- nothing.
Old 28th July 2015
  #112
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monkeyxx's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by DougS View Post
When running an external preamp into the UH-7000 I would prefer to put the UH-7000's internal preamps on unity gain - in most equipment this results in the lowest THD and best signal to noise ratio. But the gain knobs on the UH-7000 have no marking for unity gain. They range from 22 through 68 (if I recall). I've been running them at about 30. Any ideas where the best setting for this would be on the UH-7000?

I checked the manual -- nothing.
Sorry I don't know. I would just use the Line Inputs on the rear of the UH-7000 and then set an appropriate gain. I haven't tried this yet, I'm always using the UH-7000 mic preamps, they are wonderful.
Old 28th July 2015
  #113
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I think I'm ready to use the UH-7k as an outboard box only, and connect it via SPDF to my EMU 1212m.

I haven't been happy with the performance of the Tascam drivers, especially when switching audio sources and sample rates. I end up having to close out Cubase each time I open a new project, or sometimes even restarting my PC. The latency was pretty bad, and some of my JBridged plugins were having "buffer compatibility" issues with some of the Mixer Panel settings (even João was stumped), causing them to disable.

Anyone who knows much about the EMU drivers knows they're not all that stable either though, which says something about the Tascam. But I love Patchmix (EMU's crazy and in-depth DSP mixer) and kinda miss it

I'm mostly editing & mixing now, so don't really need the UH-7k's inputs at the moment, so I should be good with just this cable right?

Last edited by JLiRD808; 29th July 2015 at 01:51 AM..
Old 31st July 2015
  #114
Gear Nut
 

Hey, I want to record my elektron analog rytm with Tascam 7k (8 inputs). Can anyone recommend a nice and cheap 8 inputs preamp to run through the Tascam 7k via SPDF?

Best
John
Old 31st July 2015
  #115
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Sorry, John. AES/SPDIF is 2-channels, not 8. If you need that many channels, maybe look for an interface with ADAT i/o. Good luck!
Old 1st August 2015
  #116
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zohomoho's Avatar
 

I'm getting clipping when trying to run a preamp through the line input and it happens at a relatively low input, -13db or so. Does anyone know what I'm doing wrong?
Old 1st August 2015
  #117
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monkeyxx's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by zohomoho View Post
I'm getting clipping when trying to run a preamp through the line input and it happens at a relatively low input, -13db or so. Does anyone know what I'm doing wrong?
Use a pad.
Old 4th September 2015
  #118
Quote:
Originally Posted by thefyn View Post
EDITE: I bought the uh7000. Initially the monitoring was frustrating and I returned it, but ended up getting another because the sound quality was much better, even than the RME I tried.
Which RME did you compare with the Tascam uh-7000?
Old 4th September 2015
  #119
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Originally Posted by kodebode View Post
Which RME did you compare with the Tascam uh-7000?
The baby face at the time but I've had other rme stuff in the past.
Old 8th September 2015
  #120
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I tried the UH7000, I really did. Just had way too many shortcomings/work arounds to deal with even in spite of the great sound quality and price. It took almost blowing up my monitors for me finally throw in the towel. Picked up an Audient ID22 and have not been happier.
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