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Behringer TD3 DIY Mods
Old 28th November 2020
  #631
I need a bit of help with the pre filter overdrive. I put the 500k log pot in parallel to r24 but when i turn the pot full down, i loose all sound. I assume i destroyed r24?
Old 29th November 2020 | Show parent
  #632
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crissmakenoises View Post
I need a bit of help with the pre filter overdrive. I put the 500k log pot in parallel to r24 but when i turn the pot full down, i loose all sound. I assume i destroyed r24?
do you have that pot also on ground? if so, that'd zero out the volume (since you write when your pot is all the way down, this would mean zero resistance, so it should make everything louder, i.e. decrease the resistance of r24 to zero)
Old 29th November 2020 | Show parent
  #633
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maffez View Post
do you have that pot also on ground? if so, that'd zero out the volume (since you write when your pot is all the way down, this would mean zero resistance, so it should make everything louder, i.e. decrease the resistance of r24 to zero)
Yes i have it on ground. It zeroes out the volume when i turn it fully counterclockwise. Gonna test this later and thanks.
Old 29th November 2020 | Show parent
  #634
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crissmakenoises View Post
Yes i have it on ground. It zeroes out the volume when i turn it fully counterclockwise. Gonna test this later and thanks.
Cool - remove the connection to ground and you've made yourself a gnarly beast

BTW in the guides I usually indicate when ground needs to be connected but lazily don't when not.
Old 29th November 2020 | Show parent
  #635
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maffez View Post
Cool - remove the connection to ground and you've made yourself a gnarly beast

BTW in the guides I usually indicate when ground needs to be connected but lazily don't when not.
Cool thanks. I assumed that if you don't mentioned it, it needs a ground connection because in the part of the filter feedback you wrote that it needs to be ungrounded
Anyways thank for your kind help. I would be lost.
Old 30th November 2020
  #636
Here for the gear
 

Does anyone have a link or a copy of the doc for the TD-3 pcb inventory?
Old 30th November 2020 | Show parent
  #637
Quote:
Originally Posted by korupt303 View Post
Does anyone have a link or a copy of the doc for the TD-3 pcb inventory?
here's schems: https://maffez.com/wp-content/upload..._NC_marked.png

and clock in schem is on the td3 thread on muff's (general gear section)
Old 4th December 2020
  #638
I was thinking about my mistake with the filter overdrive (connecting the pot to the ground too) and if i could utilize it, to turn the osc of. I would wire the ground of it to a switch to turn it of and on.
Is there an electrical reason why not to do ot this way.

This would gave me a sequenced acid filter box for some drums.
Old 5th December 2020 | Show parent
  #639
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crissmakenoises View Post
I was thinking about my mistake with the filter overdrive (connecting the pot to the ground too) and if i could utilize it, to turn the osc of. I would wire the ground of it to a switch to turn it of and on.
Is there an electrical reason why not to do ot this way.

This would gave me a sequenced acid filter box for some drums.
puliing the junction of r24 and c41 is safe - if you do it before r24 this can alter the pitch of saw, so that's not recomended

having a variable control for vco level is actually quite neat!
Old 4 weeks ago | Show parent
  #640
Here for the gear
 

Accent mod choices

Hi, I'm in need of some advice. I am about to start modding my td-3.

I want to use my beatstep pro sequencer to trigger it.

The CV and gate input mods I understand how to do.

What I don't know is which accent input mod I should do.

There is a choice of two 0V=on and high=on.

I think I would be using the velocity out of the beatstep pro sequencer or one of

its drum trigger outputs to trigger the accent so which one of the mods would be

best to chose?

I hope someone can point me in the right direction.

thanks
Old 4 weeks ago | Show parent
  #641
Quote:
Originally Posted by malleus View Post
Hi, I'm in need of some advice. I am about to start modding my td-3.

I want to use my beatstep pro sequencer to trigger it.

The CV and gate input mods I understand how to do.

What I don't know is which accent input mod I should do.

There is a choice of two 0V=on and high=on.

I think I would be using the velocity out of the beatstep pro sequencer or one of

its drum trigger outputs to trigger the accent so which one of the mods would be

best to chose?

I hope someone can point me in the right direction.

thanks
hey - do high = on and NB the version in the pdf guide is obsolete - check my webpage (see signature) for an updated version using an npn transistor and two resistors

have fun modding your td!
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #642
Here for the gear
 

Thanks for the tip
Old 1 week ago | Show parent
  #643
xox
Gear Nut
Quote:
Originally Posted by justmull View Post
I just did the rubber mod on mine and also the square wave pulse width. I was finding the envelope slightly abrasive when I first got the machine and although I haven't found the rubber mod to be hugely perceptible I believe it has smoothed things out just enough to stop me getting distracted by it.
For rubber do you use 1uf or 2uf?
Old 1 week ago | Show parent
  #644
Quote:
Originally Posted by xox View Post
For rubber do you use 1uf or 2uf?
hey, for rubber 1 like 1uf best (50v electrolytic)
Old 1 week ago | Show parent
  #645
Gear Maniac
 
captaink's Avatar
 

Looking to put a trimpot in place of resistor R189 for the hollow square mod. Does it matter which side of the resistor path I need to solder the ground or positive too?

Thanks
Old 1 week ago | Show parent
  #646
Quote:
Originally Posted by captaink View Post
Looking to put a trimpot in place of resistor R189 for the hollow square mod. Does it matter which side of the resistor path I need to solder the ground or positive too?

Thanks
pcb terminals of former r189 go to pin terminals 1&2 so when turning right the resistance increases

no ground on this one though!
Old 1 week ago | Show parent
  #647
Gear Maniac
 
captaink's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Maffez View Post
pcb terminals of former r189 go to pin terminals 1&2 so when turning right the resistance increases

no ground on this one though!
Thanks for reply. Sorry I did not ask my question correctly. On the trimmer I solder a wire to the first pin and then to the wiper pin (wrote before ground instead of wiper). Does it mater which way round I solder these wires to the pcb were the resistor was. Thanks again
Old 1 week ago | Show parent
  #648
Quote:
Originally Posted by captaink View Post
Thanks for reply. Sorry I did not ask my question correctly. On the trimmer I solder a wire to the first pin and then to the wiper pin (wrote before ground instead of wiper). Does it mater which way round I solder these wires to the pcb were the resistor was. Thanks again
ah, ok!

no, it doesn't, as long as one is on the wiper - if you use pin 1 or 3 for the other terminal just changes the direction your resistance increases/decreases when turning the trimmer! equally, it doesn't matter if the wiper goes to upper or lower terminal of the pcb place for r189 - hope this helps and have fun with that mod!
Old 1 week ago | Show parent
  #649
Gear Maniac
 
captaink's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Maffez View Post
ah, ok!

no, it doesn't, as long as one is on the wiper - if you use pin 1 or 3 for the other terminal just changes the direction your resistance increases/decreases when turning the trimmer! equally, it doesn't matter if the wiper goes to upper or lower terminal of the pcb place for r189 - hope this helps and have fun with that mod!
That’s great many thanks. Another question if you don’t mind. Could I use a trimpot for the PSU mod or is it better just to stick with a single resistor.

Thanks again
Old 1 week ago | Show parent
  #650
Quote:
Originally Posted by captaink View Post
That’s great many thanks. Another question if you don’t mind. Could I use a trimpot for the PSU mod or is it better just to stick with a single resistor.

Thanks again
theoretically trimpot is doable for psu (with higher values starving the psu more), yet not really recommendable - for testing maybe yes, but for final version fixed resistor makes more sense

similarly havoing this on a switch- doable but hm... if so, then make sure its a make before break switch because otherwise you have no connection at all when switch is in middle position
Old 1 week ago | Show parent
  #651
Gear Maniac
 
captaink's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Maffez View Post
theoretically trimpot is doable for psu (with higher values starving the psu more), yet not really recommendable - for testing maybe yes, but for final version fixed resistor makes more sense

similarly havoing this on a switch- doable but hm... if so, then make sure its a make before break switch because otherwise you have no connection at all when switch is in middle position
Thanks once again think I will stick with a single resistor
Old 6 days ago
  #652
Lives for gear
 

I have the feeling that the distortions circuit sucks because of the tone knob (filters?) is in it. Is it easy to bypass this? You will lose some tone sculpting possibilities, but it might sound a lot better then. Anyone tried this?

Maybe replace the filter(s?) in the distortion circuit with a HP filter? That usually goes well with distortion. So the tone knob would then function as a HP cutoff control
Old 5 days ago | Show parent
  #653
As far as I understand, the tone control rolls between a passive low pass filter (left) and passive high pass filter (right). Bypassing that still leaves you with the fixed high pass filter on the input, which is where the bass frequencies are getting filtered at the beginning of the distortion circuit. So the question of what to mod depends on what you want the distortion circuit to sound like. If you want an HP, it's already in there.
Old 5 days ago | Show parent
  #654
Lives for gear
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by BAK View Post
As far as I understand, the tone control rolls between a passive low pass filter (left) and passive high pass filter (right). Bypassing that still leaves you with the fixed high pass filter on the input, which is where the bass frequencies are getting filtered at the beginning of the distortion circuit. So the question of what to mod depends on what you want the distortion circuit to sound like. If you want an HP, it's already in there.
Hmm I had the feeling that even when centered, it filtered the sound somewhat.. but must confess I haven’t used it much - almost immediately connected a RAT. So maybe I judged too early and should inspect it better
Old 2 days ago | Show parent
  #655
xox
Gear Nut
I managed to do the vca declick (C51) and rubber mod (D22) despite my total lack of experience in soldering. Did it on the back of PCB using wires.

The improvement in sound is huge.

I find that setting the VR1 pot at mid range does a pretty good job to match the OG303 so I don't feel the need to do the lower cut off mod.

Although I am unsure about the need for the hollow square mod. To be honest I can't hear a difference in the audio files before and after the mod and I don't find it being too far from the OG303 by default.
Have you tried to eq the low frequencies on a mixing desk to simulate a more hollow sound?

As far as vca crunch is concerned is there any difference between this mod and just cranking up the volume on a mixing desk a bit (mackies are well know to add some subtle crunch)?
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