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One of my monitors die frequently, comes on if I higher the volume - any simple fix? Studio Monitors
Old 4 weeks ago
Gear Addict

One of my monitors die frequently, comes on if I higher the volume - any simple fix?

One of my Behringer Truth B3031A dies frequently but when I turn the volume up and a transient hit it turns back on.

Both the sound and light indicator dies just as if I had turned it off.

I know I should switch place/cables on them to see if the same thing happens with the same monitor and no I've not tried that yet but will see if I got some time to troubleshoot it later today.
Figured I should ask you about advice to save myself some time if anyone have an idea about what's wrong.

I can still use them but if I use them with low volume I go crazy because it dies several times, maybe even once every 5 minutes.

Been thinking about buying new ones for a long time though now is not the time economically. Will have to figure out something to sell.

New monitors?
If you don't have any idea about what to try or what's went I'd apprichiate some advice on what direction to look for new monitors because I think it's more likely that I buy new ones that try to repair these unless it's a repair I'll be able to do myself.
What's most price worthy (~$1000 for a pair)
I currently use my monitors when recording/producing music right now and quite rarely when mixing but of course I'd want them to be appropriate for mixing.
What I feel I've been missing in my current monitors is detail and tight bass. I also feel I get ear fatigue after 2-3 hours but it's probably due to playing music too loud.
Old 4 weeks ago
Gear Addict
Murky Waters's Avatar

Bad connection (or component). Possibly a bad pot or switch on the rear. Try exercising the switches and pots.
Old 4 weeks ago
Lives for gear

Sounds to me like you have a cracked solder joint some place on the board. When you turn up a spark bridges the crack in the solder and the speaker vibration keeps the two contacts rubbing and making a contact. When you turn down the voltage and vibrations are less and getting that initial spark between the solder joint doesn't happen.

What I suggest is you pull the board out and inspect it carefully. The odds of a dodgy solder joint being the cause is very high. I'd focus on areas around the power supply components, anything soldered to the board that has allot of weight/mass. They will have the greatest pull on the solder joints when the unit was originally transported from the factory. Sold joints could have been fractured before you ever bought the unit and it simply took time for the oxygen to get in a tarnish the solder and create a bad electrical connection. The metal may be touching but the oxidation causes the effect you're having when you turn up and it jumps the gap and begins conducting for awhile.

The other possibilities can be something like a switch going bad. Power switches can be bypassed to see if they are loosing conductivity when turned on. Loose wires on the connectors or speakers can do the same thing as can a bad cable connecting the speakers to your interface. Those probably wouldn't cause your LED's to go dead however. The amp has to be still functioning for a boosted signal to kick it back on. That pretty much narrows it down to a power supply component or even a defective cap. Pulling the board out then wiggling each component a little to see if its solder connection moves should reveal any cracked solder joints.

Beyond that it requires a good electronic tech to diagnose the problem.
Old 4 weeks ago
Lives for gear
Phil Cibley's Avatar

Originally Posted by Murky Waters View Post
Bad connection (or component). Possibly a bad pot or switch on the rear. Try exercising the switches and pots.
Could be a cold solder joint as well. See if any of the solder joints look more
dull and gray instead of shiny and silver. Re-soldering the bad joint might
fix the problem.
Old 4 weeks ago
Gear Addict

Thanks for your input.
I'll do what you suggest and if I find something on the board and feel my soldering skills are enough I might give it a go.
The monitors has served me well for almost 10 years now and have been moved around 5 times so I must say I'm not dissatisfied with the quality at all. Quite funny though that the one that my girlfriend tried to lift together with it's floor stand and that she dropped on the floor is the one that's working the best out of them haha (and from that it just got a scratch, not bad for a 15 kg studio monitor).
Old 4 weeks ago
Lives for gear
Dr. Mordo's Avatar

I would start by thoroughly cleaning the pots, switches, plugs, and jacks in the signal path.
Old 4 weeks ago
Gear Addict

I started preparing opening and my cleaning my monitors, before I had just had a chance to swab some isopropanol around on the connectors before and that didn't solve the issue (not even sure I did it properly)..

Anyway, as I massage all switches on the back I also reacted on this switch called Power Mode which I believe has always been set to Auto.. Turning it ON instead have solved my issue. I'm guessing this function is what's broke down. So I'm a bit relief not having to decide on monitors just yet even though I think I want to trade them towards something better in the future.

Thanks for your help everyone!
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