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Chilton console appreciation...(with audio clip) Consoles
Old 29th November 2008
  #31
Gear Nut
 

Ha, yeah they are yes.

I mentioned in my earlier post that I actually quite like it like that as it feels like you are 'pulling the audio closer to you' as you mix. It's different but as I also do a lot of live sound (and therefore use a great many different mixers from day to day) the opportunity to bugger it all up mid mix is always there...

Time will tell.

I like the Siemens stuff a great deal. I have a few pre modules myself. I just got shot of a VERY cool RFT Disko 72 mixer that sounded great. I like the German stuff and looked out for a good few months for a suitable 'main console' but the trouble is that they always lack the features to cut it. The Chilton's are a good balance with 4 aux's, full EQ, good control room and monitor options etc.

For me it was an important factor that the desk had at least some vintage look or feel as the rest of my studio is seriously vintage and so I wanted to retain feel. Again the Chilton wins there.

M
Old 29th November 2008
  #32
Lives for gear
 
greatgreatriver's Avatar
 

Oh man I love those pictures - I just came home - I'm gonna read all posts tomorrow--- it's late here!

Cheers on a great console man!
Old 30th November 2008
  #33
Lives for gear
 
greatgreatriver's Avatar
 

Oh I had to stay up and read your posts! Wow, you really found a diamond! The desk look sooo cool - the right vibe for sure. It was very interesting to read your post. I wish that I could find a nice console like you. I would treat it like a woman. There is nothing like mixing on a real console.

Good look with everything and please keep us updated. Please PM if you post more pictures etc. I'm really interested in Clinton and I want to see your studio etc.

Keep it up - lucky bastard!!!
Old 4th December 2008
  #34
RGB
Gear Head
 
RGB's Avatar
 

Hi all - this is an amazing thread for me to come across! I wonder if any of you Chilton owners can help...

I recently picked up a 24ch Chilton QM3, quite similar to blivetaudio's one actually - but in nowhere near the same condition. this is my first mixing desk and, basically, it needs a service:

1 channel is giving spurious distorted output.
2 channels are not responding at all to any input.
There are a couple of VU meters missing bulbs.
There are a few scratchy pots.
The whole thing is really dirty and grimey from they outside (no idea what it's like on the inside).
The mix buss has a bit of hiss on it when it's turned up loud. It's not too bad, but I'm sure there must be more headroom in the thing.
I have not done any proper tests on it yet...

I have stored it at my brothers place until we move house next week. Once we move though, I want to start work right away! The trouble is that, although I have a masters in electronic engineering, I do not work as an engineer and I never did anything audio related, so I need some advice:

1. Is there any standard 'textbook' on servicing mixers/audio gear?
2. How do I clean this thing? (inside and out)
3. What tests should I carry out? I got some hints from reading blivetaudios posts here.
4. What equipment will I need? Also, do you know if you can still get the coloured tops for the knobs? A few are missing...
5. Can I actually do this? My soldering skills are good but my circuit analysis is a bit rusty (!) and, as I said, I never really looked at any audio stuff as a student... Am I better paying someone else to do it?

I would like to give it a go myself. I just hope I can get hold of the parts to fix those broken channels, once I even figure out what the problem is!

blivetaudio, i am more than a little jealous of the state of your chilton!!!! nice one man.

thanks a lot for any advice, cheers.

Albert
Old 6th December 2008
  #35
Gear Nut
 

Hey Albert,

Congrats on the console!

OK, it sounds like you have one similar in condition to my first Chilton (A QM1 16ch). Stay cool, I have no electronics background at all but with the help of an engineer friend who helped me identify the problems I had it up and running in no time at all.

The distorted audio is almost certainly Capacitors. My original desk sounded like a guitar pedal when I first fed audio through it. MY friend took one look at the circuit boards and pointed out 1 "Main" audio capacitor on each channel and a few on each EQ module (and a couple more on each para EQ board if you have these fitted- They are a 'daughter board' that bolts onto the main board to provide the circuits for the parametric EQ option). I ordered up the caps, soldered them on (I am fine with soldering from cable making). The boards on these things are laid out with heaps of room so no worries.

So here is what I would do (Bear with me, I'm a fastidious freak at times!)...

Firstly you need to get a pen and pad and set about running tests on your desk to assertain EVERY problem on the desk... and I mean EVERY problem. Although it's not rocket science, you don't want to be taking your desk apart more than once if you can help it!

So, get hold of te manual (I have it as a PDF and will happily mail to anyone who PM's me with their email address). The opening section tels you how to use the internal oscilator to test EVERY function of the desk using the PPM meters. (one of the traits I found with the dodgy caps was that the mtering was not level through the desk so some channels set at 0 would register elsewhere from meter to meter.

Once you have tested every switch and feature (Be sure to switch EQ in and out whilst playing music through each channel as some channels may appear to work but the EQ circuit may be down... Again usually caps) we can start to dismantle the desk for repair and cleaning.

Starting with the simple stuff, The VU bulbs are easily obtained from Maplins (In the UK) or any elctronics store. The type is listed in the manual and there are two per PPM meter wired in series so if one goes the circuit is broken and both will go out. For the price I ordered up enough to do the whole desk. If one has gone they will soon all go so best to do them all (saves on hunting down the dodgy ones too!).

The bulbs are replaced by undoing the three screws on the top peice of wood coverng. Lift the cover off and you gain access to a number of metal plates. Undo these but be careful when lifting them off. The bulbs are fixed to the underside of these pannels and they are attached by wiring. Replace the bulbs (Mine just screwed in to springs but needed to be screwed right in using pliars as 'finger tight' didnt make a connection on a few of them).

Once done the top can go back on as (providing all the meters work) you will not need to go in there again... One down...

Taking a breather from the electronics for a moment a bit of bad news... Unless you can nab another console for spares you aren't going to get replacement knob tops. Chilton are out and even my friends at the BBC repair dept couldnt help despite once owning 1000's of these consoles. My first console was missing a few and this type of thing gives me a headache! What I did was moved the knob caps around untill, say all EQ's had knob covers, all Auxs etc. (In my case I was missing about 5 red caps used for the gains. I 'stole' the required red caps from individual features on the master section (monitor level etc) and completed the main board. I then oredered up some funky retro chicken head knobs to replace the features on the master section. I ended up 'all knobed-up' (pardon the expression) with a cool looking master section that kept it's retro feel.

With regards to the 'loose knobs' (Another great inuendo, sorry)... this is a common problem with this desk which is why I was so supprised at how my new desk felt so taught. The good news is that although they do loosen off they do seem of decent quality audio wise and with a bit of Servisol switch cleaning spray squirted into the back of each and a few good twists they usually loose any crackle and clean up nicely. The other thing is that these knobs are removed (they ALL need to be to dismantle the mixer so I'll explain that next) by popping off the cap cover and undoing the screw slightly inside. This loosens the knobs grip on the pot-shaft and allows the knob to slide off... depending on how far down you push the knob onto the shaft before tigtening can affect the feel of how 'loose' the pot is so this is worth experimenting with when you put the console back together if you want a nice 'uniform feeling' console.

OK, with me so far?? I hope so.

Next comes dimantling, repairing and cleaning the concole. Something best done all at once as you remove each module.

Good news is that the Chiltons are 'semi-modular' so modules can be removed in handy 4-channel sections. Two screws at the top and two more at the bottom of each module. Undo them and use a very sharp bladed screwdriver or knife to lift up the module at the top. Careful... Each module has 8-ribbon cables atteched fairly tightly so as you pull it out you will see they have to be removed by carefully pulling them away form the board. Don't worry, all these ribbons remain in order once the module is out and it's easy to see which one goes back where when rebuilding.

So now you have a four-channel-module in your hand. Nice.

As far as Capacitors go you are probably best deciding which ones to replace but as you well know... Once one goes, they will all soon follow being of a similar age. Best to replace just as many of them as you can bare to solder. Take your time, get a brew (cup of tea), put on your favorite album and get comfy at a table. Don't worry, there is no point rushing these things. Do a channel at a time and once you have done four you can peice it back together and a module is done. I did mine over the course of about a week and it's amazing how easy (mind numbing) it becomes. You soon fall into a flow.

So, take your phone or a camera (or do it the retro way and draw a plan) and take a photo of the front of the module so you can see what knobs go where when yo come to put this all back together.

Then remove all the knob caps, undo all the knob screws and remove all the knobs. Put these all into a sock and tie the sock up. Fill a bowl with warm water and washin-up liquid and dunk the sock for an hour being sure to give it a good mix-up to get all the knobs washing around. This will keep all your bits in one place without loosing yet more down the plug-hole! Once you are sure they have had a good clean carefully open the sock (Over a good surface) and count out every knob onto a towel and leave to dry.

Whilst the knobs were soaking or drying you will need to dismantle the rest of the channel module so you can get to the boards for soldering.

Dead easy... Undo the bolts at the bottom of each pot (these bolt each knob onto the faceplate... good build). Once all of these are removed each of the channel boards will come away from the face plate leavinf four channel boards and your module face-plate. By this pont you are probably sick of this project and could do with a lift... so treat yourself and take the faceplate over to the sing and use more warm water and washing-up liquid to give the plate a clean. Take time out to revel in the nice white channel markings and the shiny clean paint. mmmm. Sad I know but you gotta admit it's satisfying!

You can then set about your soldering of components. It's no biggie, the channles are widley laid out and even if you replace EVERY cap on there it's not a massive project.

All this seems long-winded but remember, I had no electronics experience and it was the forst time I had set about restoring anything electronic. I took my time, cleaned as I repaired and worked a channel at a time, a module at a time (dont forget the caps in your master section too).

I left all the modules out of the frame so that I could give that a good cleanw ithout those tall knobs getting in the way everywhere. That way you can get to all the frame edges and meters. Use a damp cloth on the wood and then polish once totally dry.

I replaced a few caps, cleaned like an obsessive and sanded and re-varnished all the wood cheaks over the course of a week and at the end of it it looked the business. It also sounded wildly diferent and a lot more consistent. Sure, it wasn't perfect like my new one (Sorry, I can't help gloating... I still can't get over it myself!) but it did me good and I when I sold it I made a little to cover my time spent doing the work.

By the sounds of it your desks headroom is being hinderd by the old capacitors but be warned, these desks don't have MASSIVE headroom like some. It shouldn't be hugely noticable, it doesn't top out that easy but it's no Neve.

They are great sounding desks though, worth every second of the time taken to keep these beauties alive.

Get some before and after pics up and be sure to report back to the thread so other can benifit from your findings in the future.

Hit me back if you need any advice or the manual and best of luck, it will serve you proud and give you good vibes kowing that you had a hand in the sound of your studio.

Blivet (Marc)
Old 6th December 2008
  #36
RGB
Gear Head
 
RGB's Avatar
 

Wow! Blivet, what can I say? Step-by-step instructions... i think this thread will become the bible for all Chilton owners - great stuff. I now can't wait to move house and get this project started. As soon as we get moved I will take the 'before' pics and post them up. Annoyingly, I am then traveling for a month so the 'after' pics will probably be some time in 2009!

One last question: when you say you "cleaned like an obsessive" what products are you using to clean the desk? Anything special?

As for the dead channels, hopefully that will just be caps as well. In any case I intend to recap the whole desk and hope that, even if the problem is not dead caps, it will become obvious when I get to grips with the board layouts.

Once again, this will be so so useful. Thanks a lot.

Albert
Old 6th December 2008
  #37
Gear Nut
 

Ha!.. The Chilton bible, I like that. To be fair, that is what I set out to kind of do by posting as much info up as possible. I hate it when I'm trying to find info on a bit of kit and there is nothing. I do my research obsessively when it comes to buying my gear. Gearslutz is the ideal base to gather this info and share it and I intend to do it one by one for the rarer peices of gear I am fortunate to own... My newly aquired Scully 280 8-track will be next up.

When I say 'clean obsessively' I refer to taking time and doing a thorough job more then anything.

I do use alcohol based solvent cleaner on bare metal parts to clean off tape residue etc but was extra careful not to get this near the markings on the mixer as this can sometimes remove this.

I also use a great deal of anti-static foam cleaner on the main surface (always carefull to try a small amount on a 'hidden' bit of legending to make sure it doesn't remove it first!). Spray liberally and leave for 5 mins and the majority of grime is lifted away. It's also non-smear so wipes of leaving everything sparkling and new looking (and smelling).

Servisol and Q-tips (Cotton buds) are essential for detail cleaning and the de-crackling of pots and switches.

To be honest though, most of this grime on old gear is just dust and daily grime, all of which can be removed with a damp cloth with a touch of detergent. The foam cleaner is the easier option but not essential. Although if you can get hold of a can it's worth it as its great as an all purpose cleaner on gear fronts and monitors (screens NOT cones people!).

With regard to your non-working channels, I would suggest that it probably IS capacitors (from my limited experience) and that replaceing them will certainly eliminate the chance if not repar the fault completely.

Op amps are another chance (the main ones are socket mounted for ease of replacement... Or upgrade ... Hmmm.) so again should be an easy job. You will know more about this than I but if it helps, I never had to replace any in either of my chiltons.

Transformers on each channel... Do these 'go' completely? I don't know but other than that lot there's precious little on the channels to go.

Try the easy things like cleaning the 'insert' jack sockets on the back as I have had enough mixers to know that this little (and often forgetten) conection in the signal path can easily become oxidatied and loose the connection as it is one of the lesser used connections on the desks (especially ex-BBC ones as these were often wired to patch bays).

Internal wiring has never given me a problem on my two desks but there is always the possibility that a connection has come loose in the back of the desk. That's real basic stuff though and no problem to check. Be sure to swap modules around to see if the problem remains on that chanel in relation to the whole desk or it follows the module as you move it around... this will tell you if it's an internal wiring issue or a problem with the modules electronics.

Look forward to the pics and to hearing your progress reports... Don't forget the tea.

PS: Love Glasgow, worked there for months a couple fo years back. Good people.

Regards,

Blivet (Marc)
Old 6th December 2008
  #38
Gear Nut
 

CHILTON QM3 MANUAL HERE

Thought this would be of use to any onlookers looking to buy a Chilton or read up on the features/technical specs.

It also includes the Schematics.

A lot of the BBC desks came with additional modifications relative to the broadcast industry but by and large these desks retain the original features.

I hope this helps (and hope it's not against any Gearslutz rules?)...

Blivet (Marc)
Attached Files
File Type: pdf QM3 series Manual.pdf (2.44 MB, 1269 views)
Old 7th December 2008
  #39
RGB
Gear Head
 
RGB's Avatar
 

Excellent stuff!

I also wrote to a tech who said that with some of these desks it is easy to improve the sound quality by replacing the opamps with better quality. pin-compatible chips.

Have you ever thought about this?

Not that I want to fix something that ain't broke, but I thought I would look into it since I am planning to refurbish the whole thing anyway...

Food for thought :-)
Old 8th December 2008
  #40
Gear Nut
 

I mentioned in my previous post that the op-amps were socket mounted and therefore upgradable.. I haven't looked into this myself... yet (Although I will do ANYTHING to improve the sound of ANYTHING... very little of my studios vintage gear remains stock).

Rob acid, a German producer and mastering engineer has a 12 channel QM3 that he had modified by a guy over there. He sent me the contact details through so I may pursue that in the coming weeks (Rob acid is on GS and has posted a few Chilton related posts, he also has an excellent video on his website about mastering that features his modified Chilton).

If you find anything out about the Op-amp upgrade I would be extremely interested in hearing back... Burr Browns anyone? thumbsup

I'm sure I read somewhere that Rob had his desk modified so that his desk had a few 'different flavor' channels. So he has say... 4 that are upgraded to sound similar to Neve, another 4 to resemble API... These are examples as he is, perhaps understandably, shy on giving out details regarding exactly what he had done.

To be honest, the idea of having 16 channels of one type of upgrade and another 8 of another is quite appealing to me. Perhaps I'll whip a module out tomorrow and check the chip ID's against some more tasty options on the net... I'll be sure to let you know.

Blivet
Old 12th December 2008
  #41
Lives for gear
 
spitfire8898's Avatar
 

Anyone have any experience with a Chilton M10?
Old 13th December 2008
  #42
Gear Nut
 

Hey RGB,

With regard to Op amp upgrades on the QM3 I have spoken to a tech guy about refurbishing these desks and he says that the Op amps in the QM3 (NE5533) are of a high quality but mentioned if any were down then he would replace them with B&B Op amps.

He also mentioned that the most important area of the desk to set upon first is the master modules (Accessed by removing the bottom panel of the desk). This makes sense obviously as all audio passes through the master outs.

He also mentions that if you are refurbishing the whole desk then be sure to remember the filter modules for each channel in the meter bridge and also the routing modules. Prices to refurbish the whole desk came in quite expensive (as you would expect... these things take time) but he was willing to work on my desk a module at a time which means the desk can remain functional and also the cost is spread.

I am aware that although my desk looks perfect and sounds great (to my ears) after 30 years of life degradation in inevitable and so I will be having this work carried out over the coming year (Starting with the master modules). I'll be sure to keep you all posted on the outcomes.

Blivetaudio

Last edited by blivetaudio; 13th December 2008 at 08:15 PM.. Reason: Spelling errors!
Old 4th January 2009
  #43
Here for the gear
 

Hey all, I picked up a Chilton 16X2 mixer a while ago. It's quite small for being a transformered, all discrete console (it has the look of it's bigger brothers). I'm interested in using it as a sidecar, but it doens't have direct outs. Has anyone modified a Chilton for direct outs? On Chiltons with direct outs, what do they use (ie. buffer with transformer or left unbalanced)? I'll post a photo if anyone is interested. Best, -arlen
Old 10th January 2009
  #44
Gear Nut
 

Ahhh NeuTekNique... Good man, probably a QM1.

PERFECT as a sidecar... take a look at the schematics in the manual I posted above... may be some info in there?

Failing that drop me a PM and Ill take a look in my paperwork.

For the record, any Ex-BBC Chilton owners out there (I know there's a lot because they built them mainly for the BBC originally) I was lucky enough to be contacted by the guy at the BBC who sold me the console a couple of months after buying the console, he said he had found the schematics for the BBC modifications carried out on the desk and "Did I want em?"...

Hell yes!

Well, they arrived in a padded envelope and when I opened it I was shocked. ALL the original manuals in folders with letters to the BBC. On top of that, original internal, hand written notices from the BBC reporting on recommended modifications for the desk and all subsequent design drawings. It even came with 2 spare decals with all markings on for the console to replace it when it rubbed of in years to come.

All the schematics are there (and amended where relevant) to show every joint soldered or rear connection re-wired. It surely adds massive value to the console (not necessarily financially).

Anyone with one of these BBC desks (usually with added monitor functions and rewired rear connectors) can feel free to PM me with any queries and I'll consult 'The Bible' for possible info.

Hope this helps,

Keep me posted on the console man,

Marc
Old 14th January 2009
  #45
Here for the gear
 

so how does it sound?

Hello Marc,
I've read this thread and I'm very attracted by this desk, especially because of the hi&locut filters and the parametric eq. If I'm not wrong, you still haven't told us, how the desk sounds to your ears, especially compared to your older qm1. so far I found very different opinions on the sound of this desk (like with any audio equipment... , as you have owned both, I would be interested to know, what the difference in sound is, if there is one.
many thanks
silver surfer
Old 14th January 2009
  #46
Gear Head
 

someone near Köln/Cologne in Germany needs to pick this up!

Chilton Qm-3 bei eBay.de: Mischpulte (endet 18.01.09 14:14:36 MEZ)
Old 14th January 2009
  #47
Gear Guru
 
Karloff70's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by francis View Post
someone near Köln/Cologne in Germany needs to pick this up!

Chilton Qm-3 bei eBay.de: Mischpulte (endet 18.01.09 14:14:36 MEZ)
You spoilsport!!! Already seen it and my brother lives in Cologne, ready to go get.......heh Hands off folks heh
Old 14th January 2009
  #48
Gear Head
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Karloff70 View Post
You spoilsport!!! Already seen it and my brother lives in Cologne, ready to go get.......heh Hands off folks heh
sorry. dunno how many have seen it :(
PM me if you want me to take the link down - i fully understand your concern.
i'm sure it'll go cheap cheap cheap though.

i'll even be interested in taking my car and driving there (14 hour ride...)
Old 17th January 2009
  #49
Gear Nut
 

Oooh, that's a nice one!

16 channels into 8 with C30 comps (Great sounding and very useful) on EVERY group channel. Good luck guys and let me know if you need any schematics or info when you win!
Old 17th January 2009
  #50
Gear Nut
 

Silver Surfer...

That's a very valid question and one that I have held off from answering as the studio it will reside in in still being constructed.

I have carried out a lot of tests but until I get chance to mix a full 24 channels through it there isn't much I can say.

My QM1 sounded warm and woolly (slightly muffled in the high frequencies)... a bit too woolly for my liking. Would of been great if you were trying to achieve that 60's sound... and I mean with the low quality too, not just yummy vintage sound.

My QM3 (the new one) sounds far more crisp and detailed but still maintains an air of vintage crunch about it. Its not overly dirty as the QM1 was and the pre's do seem to kick well (I had to drag it down to the studio and track some drums through it to test it as waiting was killing me!).

I'm expecting it to be of a much higher fidelity in the mix but like you say, everyone has personal opinions on kit and when it gets to this age they ALL sound different depending on how they have been kept and maintained.

My QM1, as I have mentioned, was not in the best of condition. Im sure a fully sorted and internally recapped QM1 would blow the pant off my old thing. My current desk, the QM3 you see on this thread is in spanking condition and has spent its life being maintained by the BBC and so is probably a lot closer to sounding as it would of new than most.

A coupld of months will see the studio finished and I'll be sure to get plenty of audio tracks up here for you all to compare (other owners should do the same for comparisons).

In the meantime if you see one, I'd snap it up. Feature wise they are just amazing. The high and lo-pass filters (that are in addition to the EQ bands) are great. I remember thinking how improved my mixes were when you used them on almost every channel to filter out unneeded frequencies.. the mix clears up instantly and since then I have almost always used them when mixing in the box with protools. Having them for real on every desk channel is just dreamy as it reminds you to filter away.

Hope this helps and I'll get more sound opinions on here ASAP.
Old 19th January 2009
  #51
Gear Head
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Karloff70 View Post
You spoilsport!!! Already seen it and my brother lives in Cologne, ready to go get.......heh Hands off folks heh
did you get it?

EUR 1.421,75

is a pretty hefty price-tag...when knowing it's not in peak condition. :(
Old 19th January 2009
  #53
Gear Guru
 
Karloff70's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by francis View Post
did you get it?

EUR 1.421,75

is a pretty hefty price-tag...when knowing it's not in peak condition. :(

Nope....went slightly out of range........next time.....
Old 20th January 2009
  #54
Lives for gear
 
MidasHatesGold's Avatar
 

I did the second last bid 1411,77€ the guy who get it was an ebay newby, therefor I think the guy bought it itself...like a reserve price...

dammed

It would have been fun to repair this one...what a shame...good luck for the next time guys...does anyone have a chilton to sell for me??

cheers mates!
Old 20th January 2009
  #55
Gear Guru
 
Karloff70's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by MidasHatesGold View Post
I did the second last bid 1411,77€ the guy who get it was an ebay newby, therefor I think the guy bought it itself...like a reserve price...

dammed

It would have been fun to repair this one...what a shame...good luck for the next time guys...does anyone have a chilton to sell for me??

cheers mates!

lol....maybe he did.....I was there til 1200......next!
Old 20th January 2009
  #56
Gear Nut
 

Hey guys,

Not wanting to up prices or ruin anyones chances but there's a cute little 10 channel beauty on eBay.co.uk with no bids.

Perfect for a sidecar type thing.

Let me know if anyone gets it or I may have to snap it up myself for my 8-track!

Blivet.
Old 21st January 2009
  #57
Gear Guru
 
Karloff70's Avatar
 

Seen it heh Fancy more eq and auxes though......looks nice though!
Old 9th February 2009
  #58
Gear Head
 

if anyone has any spare Chilton Mic/Line channels, or just don't need a couple in their console - i'm looking to buy.

i have 2 chilton Line channels (M4b) i'm offering for sale/trade if anyone's interested.
Featuring Level gain (+10 to -10dB)
Pan/Balance
Aux Send 1
Aux Send 2
aux send pre/post
Stereo to Mono button
Ch. on/off
PFL
Left & Right on/off
and Fader.
Old 10th February 2009
  #59
Gear Head
 

More chilton eye-candy

i decided to take some pics of my chilton last night.

there are some questions in the pictures as well.

like, why is there a trimpot there?
could it have any usefulness for us? more gain? less noise? wider Qsweep/EQ?
and substitue questions for the Belclere EN 8219 transformer.
not that mine isn't working like it should - i just wouldn't mind knowing what sub. to use if it fails at some point - and also to upgrade the chilton down the road.

here we go (these are the M1 channels - meaning the line/mic input channels)

http://i42.tinypic.com/1179zb7.jpg
http://i40.tinypic.com/6z30j5.jpg
http://i44.tinypic.com/2mfkvbp.jpg
http://i42.tinypic.com/i55atg.jpg
http://i44.tinypic.com/6851sl.jpg
http://i41.tinypic.com/t0mghs.jpg
Old 14th February 2009
  #60
Gear Nut
 

Thought I would post this link...

It leads to a page detailing the BBC's use of the Chilton QM3 in their OB vans in the 70's.

The desk in the picture is identical to mine and shows what it looked like when I went to pick it up. Same Bedford van and everything.


Google Image Result for http://www.btinternet.com/~roger.beckwith/bh/locrad/images/chilton_desk.jpg
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