I stand corrected, thank you.

I know the original conversation in this thread was 5 years ago, but i just wanted to jump in on the wall mounting thing for those who are planning on wall mounting their 1032s or S30Ds (both have exactly the same measurements). DO NOT USE THE WALL MOUNT SUGGESTED BY Dr.Wu, drilling into a pair of speakers (specially such expensive speakers) is just a barbarian practice, that will make the resale value of the speaker to go to the trash, plus they look really bad, i never thought it was a good practice to do any drilling to a speaker, you could end up harming the speaker or god knows what, all i know is that they werent made to be drilled!

I dont know if the wallmounts posted by Dr.Wu were in fact the original wall mounts offered by Genelec back then (they look kinda cheap to me), but get these instead, they are made by Genelec and they will hold the speaker at the back, without having to drill any holes into the speaker, they are not cheap but i think they are worth it, they are model Genelec 1032-460b and are around $300 each! ouch!, but like i said they are worth it and they look a lot better, they work for both the 1032 and the S30D (dont know if they will work with the S30Cs)

While i didnt like the idea of drilling holes in my 1032 there were no other wall mount options back then and the holes didnt go thru the housing completely if i remember correctly. The change in sound that occured from repositiong the speakers from the table to the wall was definetly a lot bigger than any side effect that the drilling might have had.
i sold them including the wall mounts a couple of years later and the new owner is still happy with the setup.

Wasnt my intention to bash you or anything, thats why i said i didnt know if those were the original speaker mounts offered by Genelec back then, which i guess they were, and yes wallmounting the speakers does make a big difference.

Im fully aware that you meant well and that the original suggestion you gave was made in 2006!, just wanted to update on this, however like i said these "new" wallmounts are not cheap.

Funny thing thou is that you replied really fast, i guess that this thread just went to the top of your subscription and you must have been like WTF??? hehehe heh

Cheers!

Why not place 1032 on stand instead hang it on ceiling if it takes this much of problem?
Ceiling placement still wont be able to avoid all the reflection and alteration that caused by table/console lol.
Since there isn't any Perfect solution why not pick the easiest and safest method such as seal the speakers into the wall like the main speaker placement?

well yeah, if your built your studio to have the speakers flush mounted to the wall it may be better, if you dont, then thats not the easiest method to do it. But remember this is not always the best, specially on smaller rooms, flush mounting will overemphasize low frequencies, although you wont get the phase cancellations from the back wall, its a trade off, sometimes its better not to have them flush mounted.

there is no elimination of phase cancellation from the back wall. Flush mounting has nothing to do with that.

it is never better to not have speakers flush mounted, assuming it is carried out correctly.

flush mounting will add a bit of emphasis to the low end, but that's in every instance... nothing to do with small rooms.

the added low end response is an effect from loosing phase cancellation from the front wall (as well as all other boundaries behind the speaker). bass is not allowed to diffract around the speaker cabinet, react with the front boundaries and bounce back combined with original signal causing phase shift. So while the bass is perceived as stronger due to this mounting, what it actually is is more coherent. The shelving eq featured on 90% of monitors is more than capable of taming this... and what it is there for. Manufacturer's must account for "free field" mounting, as this is by far the most popular. But if you have ever wondered why anyone would use the high pass filter on the back of their speaker, flush wall mount is why.


none of this is what JCC449 had recommended. He suggested stand mount. I would agree this should be a more attractive option than wall mount. Regardless of design model, screws or no screws, if you are to have a set of speakers that are not flush mounted in the wall, than you are going to have SBIR (speaker/boundary interference reflections) effects. The positioning of the speaker in relation to the floor/walls/ceiling/ will cause phase cancellations the are frequency dependent to the distance to the boundary. With a stand mount, (preferable a heavy, solid, height adjustable one), you can play with placement to minimize these destructive cancellations. Sometimes getting lucky enough to line up and SBIR null over a room mode peak. With a shelf fixed to the wall, you'd have to make a lot of holes to figure a good placement... or be lucky. You will not however, be able to play with distance from the front wall with any significance.

Regarding 1032 mounting, I actually had a pair some years ago where I used to work and we had to drill the speakers in either side to install the 1032 genuine Genelec speaker stands. You need do do that in order to install the circular metal arm support, What´s the big thing? The supplied screws were of a short lenght so that they wouldn´t trespass to the box interior.

Although I have to agree that the quality of the stands was not that great. Nowadays, K&M does fantastic speaker stands and wall mounts for Genelec speakers, just check their website. I bought stands for 8040 and 8050 that are of great quality, with the corresponding price tag of course.