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UA 1176LN reissue - with the T-bridge Dynamics Processors (HW)
Old 21st August 2007
  #1
Gear Addict
 

UA 1176LN reissue - with the T-bridge

Two questions:

1) I am considering buying a pair of UA reissue 1176 or LA-2A from american ebay. I live in Denmark - with 230V - would that be a problem? would I need a big expensive stepdown transformer?
I can't see a voltage switch on the back of the reissues.

2) The reason I actually consider buying the UA 1176 reissues (and not the Urei's) is after reading about the T-bridge which is back in the UA 1176. After beeing gone for some years because they went out of production... Now the T-bridge is back meaning the reissue is EXACTLY the same as a revision D or E (without the age thing). Right?!

I know there are plenty of threads discussing vintage vs reissues, but I haven't found many threads from 2007 discussing how close the "new" reissues with the T-bridge sounds compared to the vintage models....
All the UA reissue-HATE-threads are from the years where they produced the 1176 without the T-bridge.
So please don't kill me for bringing this discussion back...
Old 21st August 2007
  #2
member no 666
 
Fletcher's Avatar
Bro... you might want to check out the Purple Audio MC-77 as it's probably the most faithful recreation of a "70's era" 1176 you'll ever find. They're switchable to 230v and have the stereo link function built right into the units [on the originals you had to be a "stereo adapter" box which never really worked all that well].

Peace.
Old 21st August 2007
  #3
Gear Addict
 
The Reel Thing's Avatar
 

you know, converting 115V to 230V is not such a big thing.
you can find good new converters on the internet for 40 to 50 bucks, and they give you 5 or 6 ampere which is enough for a whole rack of outboard gear.

You should have one in the studio anyway, in case somebody comes along with a US guitar amp or so.

tom
Old 21st August 2007
  #4
member no 666
 
Fletcher's Avatar
It's even less expensive when there is a switch on the back of the unit [or in some cases inside the unit]...
Old 21st August 2007
  #5
Jai guru deva om
 
warhead's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fletcher View Post
It's even less expensive when there is a switch on the back of the unit [or in some cases inside the unit]...
Correct. From the 1176 manual:

230 Volt Operation
The 1176LN can be configured for either 115 or 230 Volt operation. This is selected by the voltage selection switch on the rear panel.


http://www.uaudio.com/_works/pdf/man...6LN_manual.pdf

Also in the same manual:

Stereo Interconnection
Two 1176 LN units can be linked for stereo mode operation using the 1176 SA stereo adapter. See the ‘Calibration’ chapter for instructions on calibrating the 1176 SA.


Hope this is of some assistance.

War
Old 21st August 2007
  #6
Gear Addict
 

thanks for helping me guys!
Yeah, maybe I should just get ovet it and buy an adapter - guess I would need one per unit right?

Can anyone comment on the sound thing regarding the UA 1176LN reissue (with the original T-bridge installed) compared to the vintage Urei's ??
I know there is the purple option, but I'm just so curious about all the UA hate giong on here... Maybe it's supposed to be over now they made an exact copy of the Urei 1176LN D/E revision...
Old 21st August 2007
  #7
Jai guru deva om
 
warhead's Avatar
 

Both of these companies are quite good in my eyes (I do not sell Purple or UA hardware at this time) but I would love to witness a direct comparison between 2 new models. I'm not sure anybody's done this. I'm starting to work on compressor comparisons for the ***************.com site and maybe they would be willing to send units out for that.

The Jam Room has an original Urei 1176 but I will have to ask Jay what revision it is.

A lot of that "UA hate" was confusion created over this t-pad mattering to some and not to others, and nobody correcting their statements when UA began using the part again in 2005. It's been repeated so many times now that nobody knows what applies to what situation now.

War

PS: Still...either of those could compare closer to an original (in what condition who knows) but one might apply better to your situation!
Old 22nd August 2007
  #8
Lives for gear
 

Quote:
A lot of that "UA hate" was confusion created over this t-pad mattering to some and not to others, and nobody correcting their statements when UA began using the part again in 2005. It's been repeated so many times now that nobody knows what applies to what situation now.
Man, I've used the "bad" ua 1176's, with the "righteous" ones - no big deal, just a bunch of cork sniffing. Patched them in and moved on - couldn't care less. The tone of any of them is over rated AFAIC - good workhorses that don't sound bad, can use them anywhere.

I say get the cheaper one

EDIT: Oooo, late one last night...some Remy XO b4 this post I'll stand by it until someone with the slightest point counters...then I'll concede
Old 22nd August 2007
  #9
Led
Lives for gear
 
Led's Avatar
Hi, the newer 1176 has a fuse clip that you pull out and turn around, then put back in to change the voltage. You have to change the fuse as well.
Old 22nd August 2007
  #10
member no 666
 
Fletcher's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sugarman View Post
Yeah, maybe I should just get ovet it and buy an adapter - guess I would need one per unit right?
Nope.

It's one box [that you have to build as they're not commercially available] that goes between the two units. I don't know about the new ones... but on the old ones there were RCA connectors on the back of the unit... each unit connected to the "SA" box and you were "linked" [in theory... I never got one of those things to work worth a damn!!].

FWIW, I've connected two MC-77's for stereo operation with one wire and no agita. The two units tracked far better than I expected!!

Peace.
Old 22nd August 2007
  #11
Lives for gear
 
Joe Porto's Avatar
 

I currently have 2 1176 RIs and used to have a third. I don't know the "T-bridge" configuration of any of them, but they were all within 20 SN# units of each other. I will say that every one reacted COMPLETELY different as far as knob position and taper in relation to gain.

I do use the SA adapter for stereo operation. You plug both units in, then you turn a pot on the SA box to "calibrate" the two units to 0 on the meters in GR mode.

What I noticed is the two units I have are SO different that I can only calibrate them if they are hooked to the unit one way. If I reverse them on the SA, I cannot calibrate them no matter what position the cal screw is in.

As far as the 1176 RI, they are cool, and they have a sound, but they are awfully big for a 1 channel comp. In this day and age, you can get pretty darn good quality in a smaller package. I've got some new comps on order. When they arrive, the 1176s are going up for sale.
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