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Soundcraft 6000 solo problem
Old 26th March 2015
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Soundcraft 6000 solo problem

I have a soundcraft 6000 which started with a solo fault. Every now and then the solo light would light up on the master section but not on any of the channels, the audio would mute then everything would return to normal. As I only use the desk for its mic pre's and monitoring for mixing, I started using the studio outs instead of the control room outs and this solved the problem until it got worse. when the solo light came on the audio would degrade then one day I came in and the desk would not output any audio at all.
Do you have any adea what this may be? I do have some electronics knowledge but I thought some of you guys may be able to help with this.
Many thanks,
Old 26th March 2015
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Hi Mike,
I have a SC6000 - i recognise those symptoms :
If you have not already tried it, exercising all the 'PFL' buttons on the console might be a good starting point - those little switches get unreliable and a permanently stuck 'on' PFL switch could explain your issue. Also check the AFL buttons for each aux master, and the group modules PFL - any combination of these switches being stuck could be the problem.

There is also the solo in place and electronic mute group - you can bypass the SIP signal to each channel by removing the module, and changing the state of J1 (a small jumper block on the PCB). Otherwise its a case of removing all the modules, adding just one. If it is a fault with the master section then you will need to get it looked at (or buy another one somewhere)

Best of luck anyway..
Old 27th March 2015
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Thanks for that I'll make a start today
Old 27th May 2015
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Did you solve the problem with your 6000 PFL buss ? I'm interested to know what the issue was and how you solved it ..

I am also a sc6000 user, Are there any other users out there ??

Old 16th January 2020
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I have this problem today, 5 years later...has anyone found a solution?
Old 16th January 2020
Yes, replace the DPDT momentary solo switches on every channel. Most of them are shot by now.
Old 16th January 2020
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crosscutred's Avatar
Originally Posted by Jim Williams View Post
Yes, replace the DPDT momentary solo switches on every channel. Most of them are shot by now.
Yes, it's a shame about the switches on that era of soundcraft desks.
I had a 1624 that was cheaper to move on and upgrade than replace all the switches.
It was a good sounding desk.
Old 19th January 2020
Those switches cost a buck and they take 10 seconds to remove with the proper tools.
Old 20th January 2020
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crosscutred's Avatar
I couldn't find them that cheap at the time, around £1.25 was I think the cheapest I saw, it needed all the group assign switches doing as well as the solo etc, it soon added up.
I think I was looking at around £1500 in the end for the parts.
Time wasn't an issue, 10 seconds is fast though, which is the proper tool? I tried an electronic solder sucker on that desk and it had a tendency to pull the pads off.
As I had only paid £500 for the desk and that was all I was likely to get back from it, new switches or not, I thought the money was best going towards something else.
The patchbay on it was a constant PITA too.
In the end I managed to scrape together the funds for a Calrec M series and have not regretted it one bit, it's a great desk, has been extremely reliable and most importantly sounds "better" to my ears.
Old 20th January 2020
Some of those consoles have had switch replacements done 3 times. If done professionally it will look like it was never touched. It's pretty easy to ruin a desk doing it wrong. Don't be that guy.
Old 24th January 2020
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All of the solo switches on the channels and subs work fine. The problem seems to be in the master section, the solo in place light blinks rapidly and produces a rhythmic, thumping bass tone, like an 8th note maybe around 120bpm. This creates a skipping sound like a tremolo in any music that is played through the board.

However, I can work around this by monitoring through the studio speakers or the direct outs of channels where every thing is fine. Just no solo function...

Can anyone help with this? I'm in NYC, or if you know what this is I can ship the master section.
Old 26th January 2020
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Brian M. Boykin's Avatar

1) it does the rhythmic thing only in solo or even when no channels are in solo?

2) the rhythmic noise is a thump or a pop or some other sound?

My gut is a channel solo is not fully disengaging and intermittently popping. Engaged it appears to work fine. This would explain why the direct outs of other channels are not effected and also the studio monitors. Have you monitored out of the mains? Only the control room monitors are effected by the solo function in most SC designs I’m familiar with so both the mains and the studio monitors should not be affected. I suspect the main meters are jumping also because it’s going in and out of solo. Yes? No? I’d start unplugging one module at a time until it stops to find the faulty module. That’s if my theory sounds plausible to you. I can have my console apart and back together again in an hour. I hot swap but I’m not advising that. There’s a risk.
Old 27th January 2020
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When I said the solo buttons work fine I meant that before this started they didn't stick or be intermittent like some of the channel on switches can be.

I will try disconnecting each strip and see what happens, not hot swapping though.
Here is the sound, and what it looks like blinking the solo in place button.

I made a little video

Thanks for helping.
Old 8th August 2020
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Hey I had this issue, I fixed it heres how :

The mute flip flop requires a stable power supply to work - Unstable voltage can cause the mute logic to open and close in a seemingly rhythmical way. Its a bit like the threshold of a noise gate...

The original CPS450 has trimmer pots for each rail, in my case they were dirty, I actually replaced them all. The cps is now a spare, i got a Blue Dog power supply made and that made it really solid.

Check the rail voltages on a fast meter or scope. You could also try exercising the trimmer pots in the power supply to dislodge any corrosion...

The problem in my case was not in the desk at all, but the power supply.

Hope that helps and good luck.
Old 8th August 2020
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I ended up doing the same, we got a Blue Dog power supply. Everything is fine now, and the board is quieter than ever.
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