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DB25 gender changer
Old 12th October 2013
  #1
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DB25 gender changer

(Apologies if this is the wrong place for this question, but it seemed like I'd get the best signal:noise in here.)

I have a few Planet Waves modular snakes, and I would like to use just the breakout cable without the "core" cable. The breakout ends are DB25 female, so I need a male-male gender changer to plug the breakout cable straight into my interface. Am I OK going to an office supply store and getting an off-the-shelf gender changer, or do I need something specific for audio?
Old 12th October 2013
  #2
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Hi
On the basis that it is just 2 connectors 'back to back' then an 'office' store unit is fine as long as all pins are wired, which they porbably will be.
Matt S
Old 12th October 2013
  #3
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Great, thank you!
Old 12th October 2013
  #4
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For anyone else considering this with the Planet Waves stuff, let me save you the trouble. You can connect these up just fine with a gender changer, but due to the orientation of the screws on the breakout cables, there's no way to secure it. So, I'm back to using the "core" cables, which are too long (5') for the inside of my rack. Bummer.
Old 14th October 2013
  #5
DB25 Male - Male Mini Gender Changer


If you get one of the slim ones, you should be able to secure the cable. You may have to remove the jack screws and make a trip to the hardware store for 4-40 screws...


-tINY

Old 14th October 2013
  #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tINY View Post
DB25 Male - Male Mini Gender Changer


If you get one of the slim ones, you should be able to secure the cable. You may have to remove the jack screws and make a trip to the hardware store for 4-40 screws...


-tINY

I have the slim ones. Can't see how I could attach them, though. The connectors on both sides of the gender changer require screws. Can't screw it into both sides when the screws only go one way.
Old 14th October 2013
  #7
4-40 Hex Standoffs - Convert Male Mating Hardware to Female

Something like this is needed, then....

Also, you can take the jack-screw-with-thumbwheel out of the connector body if it helps.



-tINY

Old 14th October 2013
  #8
It's a problem if you are going into a panel mount which has the normal panel arrangement of a female hex on the connector. If the [thin] gender changer has female hex (sockets) on both sides, as they usually do, there is no easy way to form the mechanical connection. You wind up with two females facing each other and no way to fit the screw.

One solution is to remove both of the female hex "sockets" from the [thin] gender changer and to open up the hole slightly. Then use a longer screw that goes from the cable connector, through the "floating" gender changer and into the female hex on the panel-mounted connector. The screw must be cut to the right length.

If the (2) screws are cut to the correct length, the "sandwich"of cable connector, gender changer and panel connector will be secure.

That's why they make the "thick" versions of gender changers. So you can have male screws at both ends.
Attached Thumbnails
DB25 gender changer-gender-changer.jpg  
Old 15th October 2013
  #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotus 7 View Post
That's why they make the "thick" versions of gender changers. So you can have male screws at both ends.
Yes, this is what I'm looking for. Can anyone recommend someplace other than Monoprice that sells these with male screws at both ends? I find Monoprice's build quality on adapters to be fair at best. I want something more reliable, and I didn't have any luck with Google.
Old 15th October 2013
  #10
Belkin makes good quality adapters. DB25 M/M Gender Changer.
You may need to switch to screws at one end by removing the thick hex "nuts".
Available directly from Belkin or at your local Office Depot.

I'd still be careful to not put too much stress on the snake when using a long adapter like that. It adds a lot of leverage to the force applied to the interface connector.
Old 15th October 2013
  #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjeffers View Post
Yes, this is what I'm looking for. Can anyone recommend someplace other than Monoprice that sells these with male screws at both ends? I find Monoprice's build quality on adapters to be fair at best. I want something more reliable, and I didn't have any luck with Google.
IMHO, even Belkin (and ANY "brand" for that matter) are not "high"-quality. If you really want something reliable then use a short adapter cable vs a long rigid piece. As Lotus says, there will be a LOT of torque on any kind of long rigid adapter. And those little screws on the back of the gear won't take a lot of stress before breaking.
Old 17th October 2013
  #12
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Thanks for all the advice, everyone. For the moment, I'm just dealing with the too-long cables I have and wrapping/zip-tying them as neatly as possible inside the rack. I looked at what it would cost to get shorter DB25 cables, and I can't justify spending the $400-500 it would cost (I need 8 of them).
Old 18th October 2013
  #13
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I use the slim gender flips on several of my multitrack outs when using different tape machines. Never had a problem.

Don't put any stress on the connectors, and usually wrap them with some gaffe tape just for extra security.
Old 20th October 2013
  #14
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^ What he said. I use F-F dsub gender changers all the time when I want to bypass the patchbay and connect 2 snakes together. Works great.
Also, I use Planet waves snakes and I think they are Really good quality. If I had to buy cabling all over again, it would only be planet waves stuff. Great prices too, at around $1/foot (for the core cable db25-db25).
Old 21st October 2013
  #15
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I feel like some of you might not be understanding the problem, so here are some pics that will help to clarify.

Here's the Planet Waves breakout cable, with a DB25 female end:



Here's the back side of the patchbay I want to plug that into, also DB25 female:



Notice also that both connectors have are not only female DB25 connectors, but that the screws to connect them to each other are also both female. So, I can use a gender changer to plug them into each other, but I can't screw them together to make a solid connection.

So, a mini gender changer isn't going to work (unless I am missing something), and a larger gender changer is going to put too much strain on the patch bay, meaning something will likely break, especially considering this is a rig that's occasionally mobile.
Attached Thumbnails
DB25 gender changer-modsnakexlrm-xlarge.jpg   DB25 gender changer-xlr_db25_2u_back_angle.jpg  
Old 21st October 2013
  #16
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Your options appear to be:
1) Make/buy a cable with 8 XLR-M to DB25-M which will plug directly into your patch bay.
2) Make/buy a short adapter cable with DB25-M to DB25-M connectors.

That is the downside of trying to use the wrong cable for the job.
Old 21st October 2013
  #17
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Maybe you can unscrew the female screws on the patchbay, disassemble the patchbay front plate and use a new screw to tighten the cable + slim gender changer to the chassis from insede out.
Old 21st October 2013
  #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Crowley View Post
Your options appear to be:
1) Make/buy a cable with 8 XLR-M to DB25-M which will plug directly into your patch bay.
2) Make/buy a short adapter cable with DB25-M to DB25-M connectors.

That is the downside of trying to use the wrong cable for the job.
Yes, I know this. I was attempting to find a creative solution that didn't involve stuffing too-long cables inside the rack, as well as one that wouldn't cost another several hundred dollars in new cables.

If you look at the 4th post in this thread, you'll see that I already gave up on the idea. However, people kept posting ideas, and it seemed like they maybe didn't understand the problem, so I thought it would be a good idea to clarify.

BTW, your suggestion about making a short cable with DB25-M on both ends? That exactly what the Planet Waves "Core" cables are in their Modular Snake line, but the shortest length they sell is 5 feet -- which is what I have and am currently using to connect the two ends.

Last edited by jjeffers; 21st October 2013 at 01:45 PM.. Reason: Added info
Old 21st October 2013
  #19

I like the suggestion of mounting the changer behind the panel that the snake terminates on...

Alternately, you could get some 4-40 all thread (or long screws) and cut-off lengths to make studs for screwing the females together.




-tINY

Old 21st October 2013
  #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tINY View Post
Alternately, you could get some 4-40 all thread (or long screws) and cut-off lengths to make studs for screwing the females together.
This is probably a failure of imagination on my part, but I just don't understand how you would do this. Something has to rotate, and the female ends are fixed parts, right? So how would you screw one into the other with studs? Sorry if I'm being dumb.
Old 21st October 2013
  #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjeffers View Post
This is probably a failure of imagination on my part, but I just don't understand how you would do this. Something has to rotate, and the female ends are fixed parts, right? So how would you screw one into the other with studs? Sorry if I'm being dumb.
I'm with jjeffers. The female ends are FIXED and don't rotate. So there would be no apparent way to actually screw them together with a long 4-40 screw???

If I wanted to do this quick-'n-dirty, I would probably just use a couple of inches of 26-wire ribbon cable and a pair of DB25-M clamp-on (IDC) connectors. Probably wouldn't cost even $5 worth of parts.
Old 22nd October 2013
  #22
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjeffers View Post
This is probably a failure of imagination on my part, but I just don't understand how you would do this. Something has to rotate, and the female ends are fixed parts, right? So how would you screw one into the other with studs? Sorry if I'm being dumb.

You bottom out the stud into one of the female threads (may need to cut a small slot to use a jeweler's screwdriver for this). Then, turn the other female thread down on it using a wrench....

Nevermind. The planet waves DB25 being a fixed, non-removable retention screw is the issue. That design is strictly to force you to buy their cable.

You could secure everything from the back of the patch panel with long screws....


-tINY

Old 19th May 2014
  #23
Hi guys,

I know it's an old threat, but maybe this hint could help people facing the same question.
... or to be honest: I'm looking for a solution for this, too! heh

How about this Belkin gender changer?:
DB25 Male/Male Gender Changer

What do you think about this solution?
Will impedance be affected negatively in regard to the Planet Waves' 110 Ohm?

This is the technical info Belkin gives out:

"State-of-the-art wiring design ensures 100% compatibility with all devices 100% of the time.
Gold plated copper connectors for a clean, clear, error-free transmission.
Aluminum undermold shield helps to meet FCC requirements on EMI/RFI interference.
Belkin certifies that this adapter will be free of defects in design, assembly, material and workmanship for a lifetime, or we’ll replace it for free.
PVC premold encapsulates individual conductors to ensure electrical isolation and relieve stress.
28 AWG stranded tinned copper conductors for excellent signal transmission.
All lines wired straight-through point-to-point.
This adapter is fully tested and certified by Belkin to meet or exceed applicable industry standards.
Connect two cables, or a cable and a device with female DB25 connectors."

[source: DB25 Male/Male Gender Changer]

Cheers,
CK
Old 19th May 2014
  #24
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Hi
Pretty much as I said in post#2 as long as you can resolve any jack post issues you are good to go.
Note a possible increased price to justify Belkin writing a load of largely irrelevant twaddle about a D sub.
You are not using it in a 110 Ohm system.
Matt S
Old 19th May 2014
  #25
Hi Matt,

helluva quick reply! Thanks.

I think the Belkin gender changer not only connects two female DB25s, but solves the problem of the "double female" screw retention, too(!).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Syson View Post
Note a possible increased price to justify Belkin writing a load of largely irrelevant twaddle about a D sub.
Sure. That's buzzwording!

Hm, but what do you mean by "jack post issues"?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Syson View Post
You are not using it in a 110 Ohm system.
Right. But I am just not sure, if it could possibly have a siginificantly higher impedance and thus could affect the audio signal negatively (damping factor)?
Guess, they produced the gender changer for data stuff. That's my chain of thought.

Would love to hear your opinion.

Cheers
Old 19th May 2014
  #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CKONE View Post
... what do you mean by "jack post issues"?
Have you tried to install one of those? There is no way to get a conventional screw driver into those screws on the adapter. You will need to find a mini (1/8 inch) flat blade, flexible shaft screw driver and/or be a contortionist to tighten those screws.

Quote:
Right. But I am just not sure, if it could possibly have a siginificantly higher impedance and thus could affect the audio signal negatively (damping factor)?
Guess, they produced the gender changer for data stuff. That's my chain of thought.
Would love to hear your opinion.
My opinion is that you are obsessing over this Do you have special "damping factor controlled" cable? (hint: no, you don't) So why do you think that 4 inches of signal path is going to make any perceptible difference?
Old 19th May 2014
  #27
caught!

I'll try the adapter then.

Thanks Matt
Thanks Richard
Old 17th January 2018
  #28
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I have connected planet waves female db25 to MOTU 24Ao female DB25 using a slim gende

I have a MOTU 24Ao audio interface and a 24 Ai.
Racked with a 6 channel headphone amp and a trs 48 point patch bay.
I have used 6 mini slim male to male DB25 gender changer adapters to connect 6 planet waves DB25 to TRS 8 channel snakes to the patch bay. Thus all 24 ins and outs are on the front of the patch bay as TRS jacks.

It's intended for use as a mobile recording rig with a laptop.

The planet waves DB25 snakes have female hex nuts on the DB25 connecter. The MOTU 24 interfaces have female hex nuts on their female DB25 connecters.
I had to unscrew the hex nut female head to male bolt from the slim male to male gender changer DB25 adapter so that the connecters would even connect.
Obviously having a female Hex nut on two connecters stops them from mating. Because of lack of space.

So I have the DB25 snakes connected to the MOTU interfaces via slim DB25 gender changers. But they are completely unsecured, not bolted.
And yes, the DB25 snakes have a bit of weight putting some strain on the connections. I am concerned they will pull out quite easily.

One idea I had was to try to find a suitable threaded screw headed bolt that could fix the slim gender changer adapter to the MOTU female DB25 connecter by bolting into the MOTU interfaces DB 25 Hex nuts. But the bolt head would have to be perfectly flush with the slim gender changer adapter because the planet waves DB25 snake has a Hex nut that fills up the space right up to the slim gender changer adapter.
Any protrusion of the bolt head going into the gender changer to the MOTU interface would prevent the planet waves connecter fully connecting. Hope that is visualisable.

Then I could wrap some sort of tape around the gender changer adapter and the planet waves snake to help keep them connected and possibly more importantly organise some clever strain relief of the planet waves connecters by holding them horizontal with cable tie supports or even some thin wooden dowel screwed into the rack case to hold the planet waves connecters horizontal.

The better option in my mind is using a Belkin male to male DB25 gender changer with the bolts at both ends and using strain relief that I think becomes even more important with the added length of the Belkin 'thick' gender changer adapter.

But because the planet waves DB25 snake and the MOTU interfaces both have female Hex nuts the Belkin adapter would need to have the Hex bolts removed. As seen in net photos of the adapter:
AAFES : DB25 Male/Male Gender Changer
So I will email Belkin asking if the Hex bolts can be removed leaving a hole so that a bolt can go through to a fixed female Hex nut on the MOTU interfaces and the planet waves DB25 connecter.

I do wonder with concern, as previously alluded to in this thread, how can you screw the bolts in the Belkin adapter when it seems you would have to screw from an angle.
Perhaps another question for Belkin.

Obviously all this, except for possibly some need for strain relief, would have been unnecessary if I had bought a male DB25 to 8 channel TRS snake.

Anyone know if the Belkin male to male DB25 gender changers bolts can be removed?
Anyone tried screwing from an angle with these adapters successfully?

Thanks,
Roman.
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