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Cleaning switches on a 31102
Old 7th May 2006
  #1
Gear Nut
 

Question Cleaning switches on a NEVE 31102

Is it difficult to clean the the knobby switches on a 31102? They seem to be getting stiffer with time and it's getting to the point I am afraid they will break or come looser. Is it as simple as spraying Caig or wd40 inside? Where though?
AND. . . Where should I keep the impedance switch set on the back? High or low?
We use a pair of KM54 and KM56 mainly. Also occasionaly an M269.


Merci Bien!
Old 7th May 2006
  #2
Gear Nut
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimini
Is it difficult to clean the the knobby switches on a 31102? They seem to be getting stiffer with time and it's getting to the point I am afraid they will break or come looser. Is it as simple as spraying Caig or wd40 inside? Where though?
AND. . . Where should I keep the impedance switch set on the back? High or low?
We use a pair of KM54 and KM56 mainly. Also occasionaly an M269.


Merci Bien!
Anybody ? (Please)
Old 7th May 2006
  #3
Lives for gear
 
Geoff_T's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimini
Is it difficult to clean the the knobby switches on a 31102? They seem to be getting stiffer with time and it's getting to the point I am afraid they will break or come looser. Is it as simple as spraying Caig or wd40 inside? Where though?
AND. . . Where should I keep the impedance switch set on the back? High or low?
We use a pair of KM54 and KM56 mainly. Also occasionaly an M269.


Merci Bien!
Hi

I'm a little concerned about your symptom.. the rotary switches being stiff to turn.

The usual malady is crackles from dirty contacts. Your's sounds like a seisure of the index mechanism.

I've never heard of this unless rust has played a part somewhere...

Are you sure this is the issue?

WD40 is an evil option with pro audio equipment!

The switch on the rear panel is selected to achieve the best sound for the mic you have. With very low impedance mics you would notice a small increase in gain in the 300 setting. Most of the time I'd leave it in 1200 position, especially with your KM's.

Old 7th May 2006
  #4
Gear Nut
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff_T
Hi

I'm a little concerned about your symptom.. the rotary switches being stiff to turn.

The usual malady is crackles from dirty contacts. Your's sounds like a seisure of the index mechanism.

I've never heard of this unless rust has played a part somewhere...

Are you sure this is the issue?

WD40 is an evil option with pro audio equipment!

The switch on the rear panel is selected to achieve the best sound for the mic you have. With very low impedance mics you would notice a small increase in gain in the 300 setting. Most of the time I'd leave it in 1200 position, especially with your KM's.


Yes a little stiff to turn. Stiffer than other rotary knobs on another 8068. No crackles though thank G_d. Seizure sounds terrible. I hope not. The 31102's sounds beautiful. I guess I will just have to leave it alone because I don't see how to take the knobs off. I am glad you told me about the WD40 I was ready to spray away! I thought I would just spray inside and voila! Easy turning. Works on my bicycle! I know this is a silly question but I guess the 1200 position is the HI switch? Great privilege btw that you responded to my post. Merci Mr. Tanner.
Old 7th May 2006
  #5
Lives for gear
 
Geoff_T's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimini
Yes a little stiff to turn. Stiffer than other rotary knobs on another 8068. No crackles though thank G_d. Seizure sounds terrible. I hope not. The 31102's sounds beautiful. I guess I will just have to leave it alone because I don't see how to take the knobs off. I am glad you told me about the WD40 I was ready to spray away! I thought I would just spray inside and voila! Easy turning. Works on my bicycle! I know this is a silly question but I guess the 1200 position is the HI switch? Great privilege btw that you responded to my post. Merci Mr. Tanner.
Hi

The knobs are held on by metric grub screws in the side of the moulding although there is little point in removing them unless you intend to replace a switch.

Pulling the side covers off will reveal the switches.

Which switch in particular is giving you grief?

The problem is that both the Elma 04 gain switch and the Diamond H EQ rotary switches have sealed index mechanisms inside the zinc casting at the front of the switch. You have nothing that you could spray at.

Are you sure that it isn't the knob set so it is pressing on the front panel?

Yes, 1200 ohms (= up) is the high.

Old 7th May 2006
  #6
Gear Nut
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff_T
Hi

The knobs are held on by metric grub screws in the side of the moulding although there is little point in removing them unless you intend to replace a switch.

Pulling the side covers off will reveal the switches.

Which switch in particular is giving you grief?

The problem is that both the Elma 04 gain switch and the Diamond H EQ rotary switches have sealed index mechanisms inside the zinc casting at the front of the switch. You have nothing that you could spray at.

Are you sure that it isn't the knob set so it is pressing on the front panel?

Yes, 1200 ohms (= up) is the high.

The low pass filter selector is stiff

The high frequency frequency selctor has a little "clunk" sound when turned all the way clockwise

The low pass frequency selector is very stiff so that it is loosening the knob it seems when turned because it resists

The knobs seem away from the front panel.

Merci!
Old 7th May 2006
  #7
Gear Nut
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimini
The low pass filter selector is stiff

The high frequency frequency selctor has a little "clunk" sound when turned all the way clockwise

The low pass frequency selector is very stiff so that it is loosening the knob it seems when turned because it resists

The knobs seem away from the front panel.

Merci!
I CORRECT MYSELF. The knobs in question ARE snug against the panel and the easy to turn ones are not. YOU were correct of course and it took my assistant to point it out to me :-) The knobs that turn easily you can fit your fingenail underneath and the stiff ones are close to the panel. Sorry for the misinformation. I wrongly assumed they would be symetrically un-snug. Is there a cure?
Old 7th May 2006
  #8
Lives for gear
 
Geoff_T's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimini
I CORRECT MYSELF. The knobs in question ARE snug against the panel and the easy to turn ones are not. YOU were correct of course and it took my assistant to point it out to me :-) The knobs that turn easily you can fit your fingenail underneath and the stiff ones are close to the panel. Sorry for the misinformation. I wrongly assumed they would be symetrically un-snug. Is there a cure?
Hi

When Neve fitted the knobs they had a piece of thick plastic with a slot that slid under the knob to keep it off the front panel.

Later, un Neve, fittings may have pressed them down onto the panel creating the issues you have. Slackening both knobs and raising them up would fix it.

You could use a piece of cardboard about 1mm thick under the knob to space it off.

Old 7th May 2006
  #9
Gear Nut
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff_T
Hi

When Neve fitted the knobs they had a piece of thick plastic with a slot that slid under the knob to keep it off the front panel.

Later, un Neve, fittings may have pressed them down onto the panel creating the issues you have. Slackening both knobs and raising them up would fix it.

You could use a piece of cardboard about 1mm thick under the knob to space it off.

Mr. Tanner, how do I slacken the knobs? I am not sure I know the technique. :-(
Is that done by loosening the screws? If I pull on them they don't seem to lift off and I am afraid to break them.


Merci
Old 7th May 2006
  #10
Lives for gear
 
Geoff_T's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimini
Mr. Tanner, how do I slacken the knobs? I am not sure I know the technique. :-(
Is that done by loosening the screws? If I pull on them they don't seem to lift off and I am afraid to break them.


Merci
Hi

You need a metric hex allen wrench to fit the screws that you'll see are in holes drilled in the side of the knobs.

I think the top knob has one screw and the bottom (very fragile!) knob has two screws.

Slacken the screws and gently pull both knobs off. Replace the lower one with a temporary packing piece of card below it to space it off the panel. Make sure it lines up with the positions on the artwork... compare with another module if you aren't sure.

Then fit the top knob and make sure it doesn't bind on the lower one.

Old 7th May 2006
  #11
Gear Nut
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff_T
Hi

You need a metric hex allen wrench to fit the screws that you'll see are in holes drilled in the side of the knobs.

I think the top knob has one screw and the bottom (very fragile!) knob has two screws.

Slacken the screws and gently pull both knobs off. Replace the lower one with a temporary packing piece of card below it to space it off the panel. Make sure it lines up with the positions on the artwork... compare with another module if you aren't sure.

Then fit the top knob and make sure it doesn't bind on the lower one.

I wonder is it possible to find/purchase the original spacers?
Old 7th May 2006
  #12
Lives for gear
 
Geoff_T's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimini
I wonder is it possible to find/purchase the original spacers?
Hi

No, they were actually made by individual Neve wiremen out of plastic sheet that was used to make the coloured knob inserts on earlier Neve consoles.

You can just as easily use a piece of card or a guitar pick or some similar temporary spacer.

Old 8th May 2006
  #13
Gear Addict
 
tmarra's Avatar
Hmmm.... Vintage Knob Spacers... How much do you think I can sell them for?

-Tony
Old 8th May 2006
  #14
Lives for gear
 
Geoff_T's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by tmarra
Hmmm.... Vintage Knob Spacers... How much do you think I can sell them for?

-Tony
Hi

Indeed, those were the days... then came collet knobs and next push on knobs.

Those vintage knob spacers will truly be collector's items.

I'll expect to see them on EBay soon!

Old 8th May 2006
  #15
Gear Nut
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff_T
Hi

No, they were actually made by individual Neve wiremen out of plastic sheet that was used to make the coloured knob inserts on earlier Neve consoles.

You can just as easily use a piece of card or a guitar pick or some similar temporary spacer.

We followed your instructions exactly and the knobs are now smooth and lovely. Just as you advised. We used a thin plastic/nylon similar to a guitar pick as you said which seems to have worked well.

Merci
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