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Need help identifying and replacing a capatitor. Condenser Microphones
Old 14th September 2011
  #31
Lives for gear
 
S2udio's Avatar
 

Theres gonna be smoke or electrocution here.
The motor start can be tested by the switches,do it !
Google single phase capacitor start....the switches choose the direction.
Forget the rest at the mo...and dont get a fire started !
If you know what your doing ??? then as stated by shorting a switch the motor will run..
unless the cap or the motor are OC, THE LATER verified by an ohm meter !
Old 18th September 2011
  #32
Gear Maniac
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2N1305 View Post
if you want to replace the 35V cap with a 200V cap, that's fine. Nothing "audio" will be affected by this change.

also, do you have tape thread on your machine? Did you notice the two switches near the motor (on the schematic), they make the motor run, if they are closed only.
this is probably why the motor does not work.
Thanks! Well i have located one switch at least Maybe thats what causing the thing not to start. I guess this machine hasent been used in over 20 years or so...maybe some loose connection somewhere?

I found smaller caps now. 1000uF 35V which i will use "if" they will explode

Its not like your average amplifier i understand with all these high voltages.

I get back as soon as i have tested it more thorough!

Thanks again for the time!

/R
Old 18th September 2011
  #33
Gear Maniac
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by S2udio View Post
Theres gonna be smoke or electrocution here.
The motor start can be tested by the switches,do it !
Google single phase capacitor start....the switches choose the direction.
Forget the rest at the mo...and dont get a fire started !
If you know what your doing ??? then as stated by shorting a switch the motor will run..
unless the cap or the motor are OC, THE LATER verified by an ohm meter !
those words, "smoke" or "electrocution" doesnt sound too good But ill do my best to avoid both of them!!

/R
Old 20th September 2011
  #34
Lives for gear
 
2N1305's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rymdis View Post
those words, "smoke" or "electrocution" doesnt sound too good But ill do my best to avoid both of them!!

/R
Yeah, electrocution especially. Smoke is OK until it gets in your eyes, and you don't want to be looking at the board when you power it up.

Be careful, check your wiring respect polarity of the caps or else POUFF again!!
Old 25th November 2016
  #35
Gear Head
 

i know its an old thread, but maybe some useful info here for the future:

Hello People!

This is a reply to my previous thread....doing this as I am always asking questions here so I thought I will update this maybe help other people with some useful information restoring their Tandberg 64x.

The main issue was/is Left channel weak, right channel out. No recording on sound and no sound on playback. Eagle eyes responding to signal.

Still having some issues with the unit, but as a great expert (Ricard) advised me and here may times too, dont change everything on this machine. I did as I was kinda ticking the boxes started with the old Rifa caps. They werent leaky, but followed the advise of many people...

So far, no better results. Then I have read some people ere advising to change those little Hunts caps…I have managed to do that , at least two of them only next to one ECC83 and ECC81.
No better results…and then I thought lets check the tubes. I heard loads of microphony so I decided to change ALL the tubes.

No better results.

Then I read someone advised to change those small Siemens caps 2.2uFs next to each tubes, which I did. No better results.

Then I have decided to change all the Rifa electrolyts hoping to solve everything.

Now, after doing that two of the tubes one ECC81 and one ECC83 does not even lights up when I switch on the unit.

I think now I am in the situation where I have changed way too many stuff on this and I will stop. What conclusion I draw of these:

Should have checked the tubes FIRST! Then change the big Rifa electrolyt caps THEN changing all the Rifa Miniprints.

I did kinda other way around which messed up everything. Now I really have to check ALL the components one by one which would take ages.
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