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Hairball Audio 1176 compressors Dynamics Processors (HW)
Old 21st January 2014
  #151
Hello,

I have been wanting to jump on a pair of HB 1176 for a while after filling a DIY lunchbox with VP28x2, Vp 312DI x2 and a TBDD (Dimension D clone)

I had a question,

When you buy the kit do you have options for anything?

Meaning does it comes with EA Transformers, or an option to upgrade any electronic component?

if it does or doesn't, is it worth it or a lot more $ needed?



Thanks!


Eddie
Old 21st January 2014
  #152
PRH
Gear Addict
 

If you haven't already, I suggest you sign up at groupdiy.com. There is lively and ongoing discussion over there on the 1176 and a bunch of other DIY projects.
Old 8th February 2014
  #153
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jason baliban's Avatar
 

Finished up a Rev A. This thing sounds great!



jB
Old 10th February 2014
  #154
I built 2 REV D units and a REV A and totally love em.. I got the stereo link kit for my REV Ds but a flood last month has postponed electronics work for now as I am having to drywall my whole studio..
Attached Thumbnails
Hairball Audio 1176 compressors-1176.jpg  
Old 11th February 2014
  #155
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Hey, i might have asked this before - but did any of you guys order the LED meter/light? My rev A was done by a buddy, and my meter light has a 50hz flicker to it bugs me, especially when i catch it in my peripheral vision.

He's doing a Rev D now, does anyone know how to avoid this? Where can the meter easily be powered from? I could pass the info onto him on the Rev D!

Cheers

Ed
Old 11th February 2014
  #156
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jason baliban's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by countrymetalguy View Post
a flood last month..
Next up, ice!

Hopefully you fair well. This thing looks like its going to be rough.

jB
Old 11th February 2014
  #157
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jason baliban's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Beatsmith View Post
Hey, i might have asked this before - but did any of you guys order the LED meter/light? My rev A was done by a buddy, and my meter light has a 50hz flicker to it bugs me, especially when i catch it in my peripheral vision.

He's doing a Rev D now, does anyone know how to avoid this? Where can the meter easily be powered from? I could pass the info onto him on the Rev D!

Cheers

Ed
So yours uses an LED version or not?

I run my (non LED) meters right off the secondaries without probs.

jB
Old 12th February 2014
  #158
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The Beatsmith's Avatar
 

yeah both are LED
Old 12th February 2014
  #159
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jason baliban's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Beatsmith View Post
yeah both are LED
I dont have experience with LEDs on those kits but i know you would want to grab DC for them, not AC. If its not too late, maybe you can exchange the LED meter?

jB
Old 12th February 2014
  #160
Deleted User
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Just a guess...the flickering LED could mean too large of a dropping resistor to properly voltage the lamp, meaning it may be running at too low a voltage. You can easily check this by measuring the voltage across the lamp. My Hairball light does not flicker.
Old 27th February 2014
  #161
led should be 3 volts. Led series resistor = (Power rail volts-3v) / 0.01 (eg (12v-3v)/0.01 = 900ohms (use 910ohms or 1k)

Quick resistor guide 6v = 330R, 9v = 680R, 12v = 1k, 15v = 1.2k, 18v = 1.5k, 24v = 2.2k. 1/4w or 1/2w types are fine.
Old 3rd March 2014
  #162
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The Beatsmith's Avatar
 

Thanks chaps - but regarding the LED - my buddy is asking:

"not sure where they are getting a +/- 12vdc rail from?"

Where are you getting the power for the LED from?

Cheers!
Old 4th March 2014
  #163
Wiring Led

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Beatsmith View Post
Thanks chaps - but regarding the LED - my buddy is asking:

"not sure where they are getting a +/- 12vdc rail from?"

Where are you getting the power for the LED from?

Cheers!
You would have to tap the the 30 volt DC power supply resistor R87 at the +30 test point. Leave the 1.1k 1 watt resistor leg long enough under the board to connect a wire. Wire from the DC power supply test point resistor to the led. Between the led, and wire from the +30 test point. Add a voltage dropping resistor like 2.7k 1/2 watt to the + terminal of the led. Make sure to put shrink wrap on all points.
Old 4th March 2014
  #164
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The Beatsmith's Avatar
 

Thank you! I'll pass this information on! heh
Old 9th May 2014
  #165
Here for the gear
 

I build gear in my spare time...

I've been building and selling gear to friends and associates for a few years now.
I don't do this for a living but LOVE doing it - I've done four LA-2A's, one EPQ-1A, I'm up to 20+ Hairball 1176 units (A,D, F).

I have a Drip Fairchild 670 in the works as well.
If you want a trusted, reliable and experienced guy to help you with a project please let me know.

You can find out more about me here:
SCA Kit Builder :: Index

I post video's on YouTube now and again here: Don Bonin - YouTube

I have some hi res pics on Tumblr here from some of my previous builds:
1176 Rev D Black Face
1176 blackface rev D 002

Cheers!!
-Don
Old 9th May 2014
  #166
Here for the gear
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob G View Post
Although these are kits that you can buy and assemble if you have electonics engineering skills,

Hairball Audio

I have seen that there are people building the kits and selling the finished units. For example, there are two people selling completed Hairball 1176 compressors on ebay for the buy it now price of $850 USD.


Who are the most reputable people selling finished units who are doing the best job and making the final product sound as close to an original Blue Stripe Revision A or Blackface Revision D?

I'm not and audio electronics engineer so I am just looking to buy one that will be put together the best possible way. I know that Hairball has done some revisions to make their parts list more accurate so the right person will build one for me now using the current parts list and properly calibrate the unit to original specs.

Thanks for any information you can share.
I build gear as an electronics hobbyist - (I'm not a business) - built lots of LA2A's, more than 20 hairball 1176 units, an EPQ1A and in progress on a Fairchild 670. I explain what I do here: SCA Kit Builder :: Index

Cheers!
-Don
Old 23rd August 2014
  #167
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rhino666's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by subzero View Post
I recently finished building a few Rev A and Rev D clones. I made a video comparing the two revisions. I used audio directly recorded from the DAW instead of the camera audio. I think the difference between the two revisions is very noticeable, but they both sound sweet.

SZR76 Comparison - UREI 1176 Clones (HD) - YouTube
Thanks for sharing the video!
Old 14th April 2017
  #168
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stevep's Avatar
Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank_Case View Post
I just built a single A version and two D versions and all three both work perfectly and sound great. There were a few bumps in the road especially when it came to calibration. I thought I'd post some notes to help anybody having problems.

Here's my notes:

(1) The MNATS calibration video was confusing because it shows a different control panel then on the hairball, and the MNATS video talks about shorting pad 22 internally to ground with an alligator clip when this is not necessary on the Hairball because that is what the CCW Off switch on the Attack control does. Once I figured this out, things started moving again.

(2) It's important to understand that each of the calibration steps addresses setting a single internal trim pot. Once the pot is set, don't change it, especially in a later calibration step, or you will have to start calibrating all over. Here's the general lay of which pot is set in which step.
- Calibration Step #1 - R59, Q Bias pot.
- Calibration Step #2 - R75, Null adjust pot.
- Calibration Step #3 - R44, Gain reduction metering cal pot.
- Calibration Step #4 - R86, Distortion adjust pot (Version D only)

(3) For the D version, I found it necessary to first calibrate R86, being the distortion adjust trim pot in the input preamp section, before anything else, because without it being set properly, one of my units could not be properly Q Biased and had terrible distortion. I initially thought my compressor was blown but instead it was an R86 calibration problem. Hairball says you do this as step #4, but that didn't work for me. I needed to do it as step #1. R86 is a 100 trim pot and should be set initially to exactly 50 ohms, meaning exactly in center.

(4) The MNATS Q Bias instructions were confusing because of control panel differences. Instead I suggest you use the instructions on this page from Hairball I found using google.
Hairball Audio, LLC - Calibration
Note that you must first crank the trim pot all the way CCW, and then turn it CW until the voltage specified in the instructions starts to drop. This will take quite a few CW turns to get to that point and at first it will appear that the pot does nothing. Just keep cranking and the voltage will eventually drop.

(5) Once the Q Bias pot is set, your compressor will work and should then be fully tested with a preamp and a microphone connected to make sure that the attack and release, as well as all the other functions work. The meter readings will be inaccurate, but that will be corrected in later calibration steps. Do not proceed until you are satisfied everything works. If it doesn't, then you have a wiring or circuit problem somewhere that will need to be fixed.

(6) For "Calibration Step #2" both the MNATS and HB ways work. In fact they more or less describe the same process. Look at both sets of instructions until you understand them and then figure out what is needed.

(7) Calibration Step #3 is simple once you figure it out, but both explanations from HB and MNATS are confusing, so I wrote my own instructions, similar to the HB method:

- Input=Mid, Output=Mid, Attack=Full CW, Release=Full CW, Ratio=20, Meter=GR
- Shorting Plug=In Circuit.
- Connect a DMM to the XLR input.
- Apply a 1khz .775VAC signal to the XLR input. The input DMM should read .775VAC.
- Set the Attack control fully CW.
- Connect a DMM to the XLR output.
- Set the OUTPUT control so that the XLR output DMM reads .775VAC, being the same voltage as on the XLR input.
- Turn the Attack fully CCW and engage the OFF switch.
- Set the INPUT control to read 2.44VAC on the XLR output DMM.
FINALLY...
- Set the Attack control fully CCW, turning the switch to OFF, and adjust the meter zero pot on the front panel to show 0dBu on the meter.
- Then turn the Attack fully CW, turning the switch to ON, and adjust the R44 until the meter reads -10dBu.
- Repeat these last two steps over and over again until R44 keeps the meter at minus 10dBu when switch is ON, and the Meter returns to 0dBu when the switch is OFF.

(8) Regarding parts selection:
-- I recommend that you do away with the cheap Xicon resistors on the BOM and instead source better resistors that have the resistance value written on the side of the resistor in plain English. That way you can easily match up the resistors values on your board with a picture of an unpopulated board in case you think you placed a resistor in the wrong position. Xicon resistors sound OK, but I find the color coding near impossible to read due to the glazzing on the resistor. I mostly used a combination of PRP and Dale metal film resistors, which are known to sound excellent.
-- To reduce noise I threw out all of the carbon film resistors on the original BOM and replaced them with high quality metal film resistors. They cost a few dollars more, but the reduction in noise is worth it. And to reduce noise further, I used an Alps conductive plastic output pot.
-- For most electrolytic caps, I used Panasonic FR series caps primarily because of their high reliability and long life, as well as their great sound. On my A version build, I used a significant number of blackgate caps, just because I had a bunch of new ones laying around here. They likewise sound great.
-- I tossed the cheap disk ceramic caps on the original BOM that I received from Mouser and put in more expensive and better sounding multilayer ceramics.
-- For film coupling caps, I used Sprague 225P mylars, which sound surprisingly good. I then tried bypassing them with fast polypropylene caps thinking that it would improve the sound and performance. It did not work as anticipated, and made the 1176 sound sterile. I then removed the bypasses and got nice thick sound again. I really like the way 225Ps sound. The exception being that I used a high quality polypropylene 1uf cap as the input coupling cap on my D versions to give them a little more clarity. My A version uses a 225P as the input cap and sounds good as well, giving it a bit more vintage mylar mojo.
-- I used shielded Mogami Star Quad mic cable throughout. It's overkill but it looks good and also has a very sturdy feel to it.

That's it. They sound great! Good luck building yours.
Thanks for the tips
Old 15th April 2017
  #169
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jdier's Avatar
 

Just wanted to jump in here with a pimp for team at Hairball. The lengths they are willing to go to help out someone putting together a kit is incredible.

If you are on the fence on one of these kits, rest assured that the Hairball kit is super solid, has great instructions and is backed by people willing to help out if you get stuck or confused.

Great experience all around.
Old 2nd February 2018
  #170
Lives for gear
any source of these kits in the U.K (seems a pain to ship and import/customs fees)

Or does anyone in the UK know the total price, shipped and duty paid?

Am after rev a.


Cheers
Old 28th August 2018
  #171
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Typhus's Avatar
Has anyone tried doing the orange cap mod to their REV D? I'm curious as to how it sounds.

Just built me second kit.

Choose a the REV D this time. Before I did the Rev A.

Was very surprised how much easier the folks at Hairball mad it to build these kits.

Before It took me a month and half to build my REV A (mainly spending time on doing the wiring), but now you don't even have to wire anything.

Probably going to get a second REV D for linking.
Old 28th September 2018
  #172
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BIG BUDDHA's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob G View Post
Thanks a lot for the replies. What makes the D better than the A for you?

A lot of people consider the version A Blue Stripe to be the pinnacle of 1176's.
i owned and used a genuine blue stripe for over 12 years every day.

the Low noise mods that came later were introduced for a reason.

the D model is low noise ( better for me)

the bluey had a sound, but it didn't work well for really clean sources.

thats why i sold it.

Buddha
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