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Hairball Audio 1176 compressors Dynamics Processors (HW)
Old 29th July 2013
  #121
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The Beatsmith's Avatar
 

Hi,

My buddy made my Rev A for me for me and he's building a Rev D too. It sounds really great. But when the release is fully clockwise (fastest), the compression kind of 'stops' or at least you need to crank the input a lot to hear it and get some more GR, and it sounds very grungy. Other than that it works well and sounds great, as long as it don't go into that 'zone'.

Any ideas why that would be?

Cheers
Old 10th August 2013
  #122
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hw2nw's Avatar
 

Wondering if anyone in LA wants to do a group build? I'll bring some beers...
Old 22nd August 2013
  #123
Here for the gear
Just ordered a G revision. If it works out well I'm going to do an A. Excited!
Old 22nd August 2013
  #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Beatsmith View Post
Hi,

My buddy made my Rev A for me for me and he's building a Rev D too. It sounds really great. But when the release is fully clockwise (fastest), the compression kind of 'stops' or at least you need to crank the input a lot to hear it and get some more GR, and it sounds very grungy. Other than that it works well and sounds great, as long as it don't go into that 'zone'.

Any ideas why that would be?

Cheers
there are two 47K resistors before the det diode in the GR circuit. they have to be exact. also you should be getting -9.85V to -10 on the qbias feed resistor (10K) and ratio switch feed resistor (2.2K)
Old 7th September 2013
  #125
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e3p0's Avatar
 

Any chance one of you fine slutz knows which caps I should sub with orange drops in a Hairball REV D? I have found conflicting info, but it looks like c2, c7, c8, and c10. 2x 100uF and 2x 1uF. Am I close?

Thanks.
Old 15th September 2013
  #126
Caps

Quote:
Originally Posted by e3p0 View Post
Any chance one of you fine slutz knows which caps I should sub with orange drops in a Hairball REV D? I have found conflicting info, but it looks like c2, c7, c8, and c10. 2x 100uF and 2x 1uF. Am I close?

Thanks.
BILL OF MATERIALS FOR MNATS 1176LN REV D VERSION 2.2 BOARDS
QUANTITY VALUE DESCRIPTION DESIGNATION NOTES
1 1uF CAPACITOR FILM C1
1 27pF CAPACITOR CERAMIC C2
2 200pF CAPACITOR MICA C3,C6
5 100uF CAPACITOR ELECTROLYTIC C4,C5,C12,C21,C28 35V
3 1uF CAP ELEC OR FILM C7,C10,C17
1 .15uF CAPACITOR FILM C8
2 .22uF CAPACITOR FILM C9,C22
2 1uF CAP ELEC OR FILM C10,C17
1 10pF CAPACITOR CERAMIC C11
1 270pF CAPACITOR CERAMIC C13
1 .033uF CAPACITOR FILM C14
1 .0047uF CAPACITOR FILM C15
1 1uF CAP ELEC OR FILM C17
1 47uF CAPACITOR ELECTROLYTIC C18 35V
2 6.8uF CAPACITOR TANTALUM C19,C20,
1 6.8uF CAPACITOR ELECTROLYTIC C23 35V
1 2200uF CAPACITOR ELECTROLYTIC C24 35V
2 2200uF CAPACITOR ELECTROLYTIC C25,C26 50V
1 .022uF CAPACITOR FILM C27 ON RATIO BOARD

Just search mouser web site Panisonic caps work. You can find the link to mouser cart on hairballs website. Seek and you shall find.
Old 16th September 2013
  #127
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e3p0's Avatar
 

Thanks for that. I have that list too. I was inquiring for someone that wants to upgrade some caps to Orange Drop. I was unsure which caps to swap. I will keep digging. Thanks!
-e
Old 17th September 2013
  #128
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e3p0's Avatar
 

I just heard back from Hairball. In case someone else was looking for the info here is a quote from my email from them:
"Ya they are C2 and C8 which are .15uF and C7 and C10 which are 1uF."
Old 2nd October 2013
  #129
Deleted User
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I just built a single A version and two D versions and all three both work perfectly and sound great. There were a few bumps in the road especially when it came to calibration. I thought I'd post some notes to help anybody having problems.

Here's my notes:

(1) The MNATS calibration video was confusing because it shows a different control panel then on the hairball, and the MNATS video talks about shorting pad 22 internally to ground with an alligator clip when this is not necessary on the Hairball because that is what the CCW Off switch on the Attack control does. Once I figured this out, things started moving again.

(2) It's important to understand that each of the calibration steps addresses setting a single internal trim pot. Once the pot is set, don't change it, especially in a later calibration step, or you will have to start calibrating all over. Here's the general lay of which pot is set in which step.
- Calibration Step #1 - R59, Q Bias pot.
- Calibration Step #2 - R75, Null adjust pot.
- Calibration Step #3 - R44, Gain reduction metering cal pot.
- Calibration Step #4 - R86, Distortion adjust pot (Version D only)

(3) For the D version, I found it necessary to first calibrate R86, being the distortion adjust trim pot in the input preamp section, before anything else, because without it being set properly, one of my units could not be properly Q Biased and had terrible distortion. I initially thought my compressor was blown but instead it was an R86 calibration problem. Hairball says you do this as step #4, but that didn't work for me. I needed to do it as step #1. R86 is a 100 trim pot and should be set initially to exactly 50 ohms, meaning exactly in center.

(4) The MNATS Q Bias instructions were confusing because of control panel differences. Instead I suggest you use the instructions on this page from Hairball I found using google.
Hairball Audio, LLC - Calibration
Note that you must first crank the trim pot all the way CCW, and then turn it CW until the voltage specified in the instructions starts to drop. This will take quite a few CW turns to get to that point and at first it will appear that the pot does nothing. Just keep cranking and the voltage will eventually drop.

(5) Once the Q Bias pot is set, your compressor will work and should then be fully tested with a preamp and a microphone connected to make sure that the attack and release, as well as all the other functions work. The meter readings will be inaccurate, but that will be corrected in later calibration steps. Do not proceed until you are satisfied everything works. If it doesn't, then you have a wiring or circuit problem somewhere that will need to be fixed.

(6) For "Calibration Step #2" both the MNATS and HB ways work. In fact they more or less describe the same process. Look at both sets of instructions until you understand them and then figure out what is needed.

(7) Calibration Step #3 is simple once you figure it out, but both explanations from HB and MNATS are confusing, so I wrote my own instructions, similar to the HB method:

- Input=Mid, Output=Mid, Attack=Full CW, Release=Full CW, Ratio=20, Meter=GR
- Shorting Plug=In Circuit.
- Connect a DMM to the XLR input.
- Apply a 1khz .775VAC signal to the XLR input. The input DMM should read .775VAC.
- Set the Attack control fully CW.
- Connect a DMM to the XLR output.
- Set the OUTPUT control so that the XLR output DMM reads .775VAC, being the same voltage as on the XLR input.
- Turn the Attack fully CCW and engage the OFF switch.
- Set the INPUT control to read 2.44VAC on the XLR output DMM.
FINALLY...
- Set the Attack control fully CCW, turning the switch to OFF, and adjust the meter zero pot on the front panel to show 0dBu on the meter.
- Then turn the Attack fully CW, turning the switch to ON, and adjust the R44 until the meter reads -10dBu.
- Repeat these last two steps over and over again until R44 keeps the meter at minus 10dBu when switch is ON, and the Meter returns to 0dBu when the switch is OFF.

(8) Regarding parts selection:
-- I recommend that you do away with the cheap Xicon resistors on the BOM and instead source better resistors that have the resistance value written on the side of the resistor in plain English. That way you can easily match up the resistors values on your board with a picture of an unpopulated board in case you think you placed a resistor in the wrong position. Xicon resistors sound OK, but I find the color coding near impossible to read due to the glazzing on the resistor. I mostly used a combination of PRP and Dale metal film resistors, which are known to sound excellent.
-- To reduce noise I threw out all of the carbon film resistors on the original BOM and replaced them with high quality metal film resistors. They cost a few dollars more, but the reduction in noise is worth it. And to reduce noise further, I used an Alps conductive plastic output pot.
-- For most electrolytic caps, I used Panasonic FR series caps primarily because of their high reliability and long life, as well as their great sound. On my A version build, I used a significant number of blackgate caps, just because I had a bunch of new ones laying around here. They likewise sound great.
-- I tossed the cheap disk ceramic caps on the original BOM that I received from Mouser and put in more expensive and better sounding multilayer ceramics.
-- For film coupling caps, I used Sprague 225P mylars, which sound surprisingly good. I then tried bypassing them with fast polypropylene caps thinking that it would improve the sound and performance. It did not work as anticipated, and made the 1176 sound sterile. I then removed the bypasses and got nice thick sound again. I really like the way 225Ps sound. The exception being that I used a high quality polypropylene 1uf cap as the input coupling cap on my D versions to give them a little more clarity. My A version uses a 225P as the input cap and sounds good as well, giving it a bit more vintage mylar mojo.
-- I used shielded Mogami Star Quad mic cable throughout. It's overkill but it looks good and also has a very sturdy feel to it.

That's it. They sound great! Good luck building yours.
Old 2nd October 2013
  #130
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frank thats amazing - thank you very much. Instantly filed away for my rev a build. OT completely do you really live on Karakoram?
Old 3rd October 2013
  #131
Gear Nut
 

Thanks Frank I'm about to get started on my Rev D & I expect that post will be a big help!
Old 28th October 2013
  #132
Just finished up my kit today. I need to get it calibrated all the way but I really dig the sound. I like the fact you can order the whole kit for $600 and everything is there. The case is the key to a pro looking build. I wish I could find a LA2a or a 670 kit this complete. I've seen the Drip stuff and it's cool, but no cases that I see for sale, just the guts.
Attached Thumbnails
Hairball Audio 1176 compressors-imageuploadedbygearslutz1382928490.751443.jpg  
Old 28th October 2013
  #133
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SamPura's Avatar
I finished my Rev D's a few weeks back. My friend did a new screen print on them. Loving these. Easy build. I find them to be way more flexible than the UA 1176 I had and recently sold because of these.
Attached Thumbnails
Hairball Audio 1176 compressors-imageuploadedbygearslutz1382934843.928779.jpg  
Old 28th October 2013
  #134
Gear Nut
 

Gotta get some of these

Sent from my SCH-I535
Old 28th October 2013
  #135
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Are there no complete 2a kits anywhere? They're all out of stock, or no longer for sale. What gives?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337
Old 28th October 2013
  #136
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jason baliban's Avatar
 

Here are mine. In pretty good company.



jB
Old 28th October 2013
  #137
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AndyFromDenver's Avatar
Nice pics guys!
@Frank, thanks for the detailed post.

I'm making an info plate (to conveniently hide the screws too), while awaiting the components.
I got super carried away with grounding the chassis too . From outside, all will look well.

The Hairball chassis is very nice!
Attached Thumbnails
Hairball Audio 1176 compressors-imageuploadedbygearslutz1382997218.737706.jpg   Hairball Audio 1176 compressors-imageuploadedbygearslutz1382997309.661234.jpg  
Old 29th October 2013
  #138
Quote:
Originally Posted by jason baliban View Post
Here are mine. In pretty good company.



jB
Looks awesome Jason. We have a lot of the same stuff, I was gonna do two hairball 1176 kits and set em right underneath my distressors and under em, my 160xt's and my Toft DC 2 which I really dig even though it gets lack luster reviews here.
Old 29th October 2013
  #139
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrhager84 View Post
Are there no complete 2a kits anywhere? They're all out of stock, or no longer for sale. What gives?
That's what I'm screaming! New LA2a units are $3500... I'd pay $1000 for a cool diy kit with a pro enclosure. I got the compressor building bug bad right now....
Old 29th October 2013
  #140
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The Beatsmith's Avatar
 

Isn't the LA2A just a case of buying a DRIP board, the BOM, and an enclosure - the perusha one for example?

I believe the build is much more expensive than the 1176 - more like £900-1000, depending on the quality of components?

There's always the option of a P2P version, too.

Certainly would love to get my friend building one once he's done with my 2nd 1176 and pedals hehheh
Old 29th October 2013
  #141
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The Beatsmith's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by drtechno View Post
there are two 47K resistors before the det diode in the GR circuit. they have to be exact. also you should be getting -9.85V to -10 on the qbias feed resistor (10K) and ratio switch feed resistor (2.2K)
Thank you! I never saw this reply - but i'll pass this information onto my buddy.

Thanks again.
Old 29th October 2013
  #142
Gear Nut
 

LA 2A Case

Collective cases makes an LA 2A case that can house the Drip LA 2A PCB. I'm building a Rev F Hairball right now. I noticed that Collective cases also makes a stereo 1176 case.

Collective Cases
Old 29th October 2013
  #143
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The Beatsmith's Avatar
 

Anyone know if anyone makes an exact clone of an LA2A enclosure? Is the Perusha the closest?

I know they're frowned upon because people are scared that they'll be sold on to people that didn't know better, but for my own uses, i'd quite like a Teletronix clone.

No big deal, though.
Old 31st October 2013
  #144
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Aww yeah
Revision R (Road House)
Attached Thumbnails
Hairball Audio 1176 compressors-imageuploadedbygearslutz1383242630.436130.jpg  
Old 31st October 2013
  #145
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jason baliban's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyFromDenver View Post
Aww yeah
Revision R (Road House)
Are you sure it isnt REV R (Red Dawn)?

jB
Old 1st November 2013
  #146
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AndyFromDenver's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by jason baliban View Post
Are you sure it isnt REV R (Red Dawn)?

jB
Haha! With the popular "Wolverines"
mod.

Just cause it's so easy with an iPhone, here's some wiring porn
Almost done and can't wait!
Attached Thumbnails
Hairball Audio 1176 compressors-imageuploadedbygearslutz1383309407.006126.jpg   Hairball Audio 1176 compressors-imageuploadedbygearslutz1383309428.921485.jpg  
Old 1st November 2013
  #147
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jason baliban's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyFromDenver View Post
Haha! With the popular "Wolverines"
mod.
Well done sir, well done

jB
Old 4th November 2013
  #148
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AndyFromDenver's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by jason baliban View Post
Well done sir, well done

jB
Thanks Jason! Btw, I watched your time lapse video when I was info pulling . Very classy

Well, I finished it tonight and did the calibration (except thd).
Here's some wiring porn to keep the thread going
Attached Thumbnails
Hairball Audio 1176 compressors-imageuploadedbygearslutz1383533064.895462.jpg   Hairball Audio 1176 compressors-imageuploadedbygearslutz1383533097.245889.jpg   Hairball Audio 1176 compressors-imageuploadedbygearslutz1383533110.063772.jpg   Hairball Audio 1176 compressors-imageuploadedbygearslutz1383533130.994004.jpg   Hairball Audio 1176 compressors-imageuploadedbygearslutz1383533163.146497.jpg  

Old 2nd December 2013
  #149
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does anyone have any A/B clips or shootouts between the hairball clones and the original urei units?
Old 3rd December 2013
  #150
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emrr's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Beatsmith View Post
Isn't the LA2A just a case of buying a DRIP board, the BOM, and an enclosure - the perusha one for example?
There's also the dual LA-2A circuit board for DIY, and I think Collective Cases makes that case too.

I have the DRIP LA-2A boards, and I personally can't find justification for the size or price.
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