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UA 1176 voltage selection issue Dynamics Processors (HW)
Old 3rd September 2011
  #1
Gear Nut
 
CurlyWurly's Avatar
 

UA 1176 voltage selection issue

Bought an UA 1176 from the States. Read the following manual to find out what I had to do in terms of running it off 230v.

http://cachepe.zzounds.com/media/117...23e877c4d0.pdf

It just says "use the voltage selector switch", so I did. I turned on the unit to GR and the VU meter did not light up. The needle moved but came to rest on -1 instead of 0.

Then I came across another manual which said I needed to replace the fuse with a 63mA slow blow instead of a 125mA that is in there now.

http://www.uaudio.com/media/assetlib...6ln_manual.pdf

I was wondering if I've damaged the unit by powering it on with the incorrect fuse? I.e when I replace the fuse with the correct rating can I expect the VU meter to light and settle correctly at 0? I only had the unit on for about 60 seconds with wrong fuse and didn't notice any sounds/smoke/explosions!
Old 3rd September 2011
  #2
Lives for gear
Have you tried to run audio thru it? I'm saying this because it could easily be the light bubls blown, which is very common (and also why I have a whole replacement pack on my desk)

On the other hand, you should have probably turned the fuse, but it depends
on the serial number, I have one of the newer which has a red switch and it's easy to set from 110v to 220v, an older one that you have to physically take the fuse socket out and turn it upside down.

In both cases, check if the fuse is blown first
Old 3rd September 2011
  #3
Gear Nut
 
CurlyWurly's Avatar
 

125mA fuse looks to be intact.

Serial number is 3107. Has a red voltage selector but it doesn't look possible to turn the fuse holder upside down. Plastic locking thing only allows it to go one way.

I don't really want to turn it on again to run audio thru until I have the 63mA fuse installed. Bought the unit from a reputable fellow slut who did not mention any problems, certainly didn't mention a blown bulb or a needle resting at -1 in GR mode.
Old 3rd September 2011
  #4
Lives for gear
Yes you have a newer models (one of mine, the one that doesn't have the red switch is #610, way behind that)

Mh, the bulbs could have been gone during shipping (like mine did once)
as for the needle, I gotta be honest, I'm pretty sure it should sit on the zero.

Change the fuse first indeed, and then see what happens.
I feel you there, hope everything's ok once you change the fuse
Old 3rd September 2011
  #5
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Radardoug's Avatar
 

The value of the fuse will not stop the unit running, nor will it cause any problem. Low value fuses are very delicate and can fail for no apparent reason. I would leave the fuse as it is. Your problem is elsewhere.
Old 4th September 2011
  #6
Lives for gear
Actually yes, no need to change the fuse if it isn't blown since you have the model with the red switch. Definitely the prob is elsewhere

Quote:
Originally Posted by Radardoug View Post
The value of the fuse will not stop the unit running, nor will it cause any problem. Low value fuses are very delicate and can fail for no apparent reason. I would leave the fuse as it is. Your problem is elsewhere.
Old 4th September 2011
  #7
Gear Nut
 
CurlyWurly's Avatar
 

Ok, but my unit says on the sticker near power input:

115V ~ 50/60Hz 125mA Fuse Rating: T125mA L115V
230V ~ 50/60Hz 125mA Fuse Rating: T63mA L230V

Why would it give these instructions if it was not necessary to change the fuse when changing power input?

Checked the VU bulbs, both blown. They must have blown during shipping. That's one problem solved!

Thanks for the help so far.
Old 4th September 2011
  #8
Lives for gear


Does the rear look like this?
If yes you MIGHT have to remove the fuse soket (under the power soket) and simply put it upside down if it's on the 110v setting (according to the writing). If I don't remember wrong is not really upside down, it's a bit tricky.. inside the socket there's the part that holds the fuse itself
that can be put in two different ways, but is not the fuse that needs to be changed, once you swapped its position it will touch a different contact
and that's gonna be it.. Hard to explain, i remember fighting a bit with it to understand how to do it

For the bulbs, like I said, it's very common, I always keep a stock of 'em at hand
Old 4th September 2011
  #9
Lives for gear
 
Radardoug's Avatar
 

You don't need to reverse the fuse in that IEC socket! It's a standard IEC socket with fuse, NOT a voltage selector. That's the red switch underneath.
Old 4th September 2011
  #10
Lives for gear
From the manual:

NOTE: When changing operating voltage,
the fuse value must be changed as well.

Make sure the 1176LN is properly set for the voltage in your area before applying AC power to the unit! Failure to
do so may damage the unit.

Changing Fuses:
The AC power fuse is located in the AC power connector block. Remove the power cord before checking
or changing the fuse.

A 125 mA time delay (slow blow) fuse is required for operation at 115 V.

A 63 mA time delay (slow blow) fuse is required for operation at 230 V.


It says the fuse value, and for what I remember - which could be wrong - you just need to
change the position of it in the internal socket.
Old 8th June 2017
  #11
Gear Addict
 
eugtone's Avatar
Did you get anywhere with this? I just did the same thing: brought two 1176 Rev Hs from the US, switched to 230V and plugged them into NZ power at 240V. One of them works fine, but the other wasn't making any sound and then farted a quick death. I swapped their fuses and the same one is dead, so I know it isn't that. I hadn't realized the need to move to a 63ma fuse either. I'm wary of running the 76 and my LA3As further until I find the cause.
Old 9th June 2017
  #12
Lives for gear
 

That instruction in the UA manual has an overtone of hysteria. The fuse value is not all that critical. The higher value fuse is still quite sensitive and will protect the unit quite well in the event of an over current condition. It can't hurt to change it, but won't hurt much to leave the old one in place.

The lamps probably just burned out or opened in shipping, this is typical.

The -1 GR reading probably just means that the GR trim on the front panel needs to be adjusted. Do this after the unit has warmed up for 30 min or so.

Does the unit pass audio and operate? This is the real question. I would guess that it does.
Old 9th June 2017
  #13
Gear Addict
 
eugtone's Avatar
I fired up both of my 1176 Rev Hs and they were powered on and seem to react to the metering switches fine. When i went to pass audio through them to test I sent a stereo signal to them and only heard audio from the left, looked down and saw that one of them had the GR peaked all the way to the left and wasn't moving or responding to controls passing audio. Moments later it farted a noise and died completely as far as I can tell. Can't make it do anything now. I think it was working earlier when i tried one of them at 115V with a step down transformer, but I can't be sure that was the one or not. The other one still works fine at 230V, thankfully. Lovely machine.
Old 10th June 2017
  #14
Gear Addict
 
eugtone's Avatar
Nevermind: it seems to have come back to life.
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