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Problem with my SPX90
Old 27th January 2017
  #61
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Here are some pictures of C19! Best I could do…
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Old 27th January 2017
  #62
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Beatsmith View Post
Here are some pictures of C19! Best I could do…
Definitely looks a little bulged.
Old 27th January 2017
  #63
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12ax7's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjrippe View Post
[...] It would not be bad idea to replace all the electrolytic caps. [...]
Old 27th January 2017
  #64
Gear Head
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse Skeens View Post
Mine's like that too. If you press on it you'll feel is squish down like it's rubber.
Hmm, yeah, maybe that's how it was supposed to be. Or maybe it was initially snug but some sort of chemical leakage has swelled it up like a balloon? Either way, if it was bulging or leaking underneath then, you might not even notice it.

I'm not an expert but it seems like replacing all electrolytics on the PSU often resolves issues on these units, and if trying that path is of interest then this one would be replaced.

C19 does look funky though.
Old 30th January 2017
  #65
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Hi guys,

Thanks for the advice. From a site from one of the lovely chaps from this forum, i know I need the following:

C11 = 68uF 400WV (this means peak operating voltage)
C19, 21 = 470uF 25V
C22, 20 = 330uF 25V
C23 = 1000uF 10v
C24 = 2200uF 10V

Where in the UK is best to order these? I know of Mouser, but there are so many different brands with different variants.

Is anyone able to point me in the right direction, website etc?

Maybe we can put together a Mouser BoM for people?

As I (clearly) don't know what I'm doing, I'll be getting someone else to do it but would like to give them the caps.

Cheers!

Ed

Last edited by The Beatsmith; 30th January 2017 at 12:30 AM..
Old 30th January 2017
  #66
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Beatsmith View Post
Hi guys,

Thanks for the advice. From a site from one of the lovely chaps from this forum, i know I need the following:

C11 = 68uF 400WV (this means peak operating voltage)
C19, 21 = 470uF 25V
C22, 20 = 330uF 25V
C23 = 1000uF 10v
C24 = 2200uF 10V

Where in the UK is best to order these? I know of Mouser, but there are so many different brands with different variants: Tantalum Capacitors, Ceramic Capacitors, Polymer Capacitors etc etc

Is anyone able to point me in the right direction, website etc?

Maybe we can put together a Mouser BoM for people?

As I (clearly) don't know what I'm doing, I'll be getting someone else to do it but would like to give them the caps.

Cheers!

Ed
I get most of my stuff from Farnell. Fast shipping and most components in stock.

Here's a link to one of the caps I already saved:

EEUHD1E471 PANASONIC ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS, Electrolytic Capacitor, 470 µF, 25 V, HD Series, ± 20%, Radial Leaded, 10 mm | Farnell element14
Old 30th January 2017
  #67
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Thanks so much for that!

I didn't think it would be so hard to track down the parts in stock all in one place. It seems like they either have 1000 similar capacitors, or none at all!
Old 30th January 2017
  #68
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Beatsmith View Post
Thanks so much for that!

I didn't think it would be so hard to track down the parts in stock all in one place. It seems like they either have 1000 similar capacitors, or none at all!
There is another thread I think where I got the recommendation for this type of caps.

I'd stay away from Tantlum btw.

If I can find the thread that details it more I'll post it here. In general though you can probably do with the same type as the one I posted with the different specs needed.
Old 1st February 2017
  #69
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Hello gearslutters!

Would anybody be so kind as to check this list of capacitors and let us know if they're OK/suitable? As Jesse posted a Panasonic cap (thank you for that!), I tried to stick with Panasonic unless it wasn't in stock, in which case I just selected the most expensive (they're cheap anyway):

C11 = 68uF 400WV (this means peak operating voltage): 860021380017 WURTH ELEKTRONIK, Electrolytic Capacitor, 68 µF, 400 V, WCAP-ATG5 Series, ± 20%, Radial Leaded, 16 mm | Farnell element14

C19, 21 = 470uF 25V: 515D477M025CD6AE3 VISHAY, ALUMINUM ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITOR 470UF, 25V, 20%, RADIAL | Farnell element14

C22, 20 = 330uF 25V: EEUTA1E331 PANASONIC ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS, Electrolytic Capacitor, 330 µF, 25 V, TA Series, ± 20%, Radial Leaded, 10 mm | Farnell element14

C23 = 1000uF 10v: ESMG100ELL102MJC5S UNITED CHEMI-CON, ALUMINUM ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITOR 1000UF, 10V, 20%, RADIAL | Farnell element14

C24 = 2200uF 10V: EEUHD1A222 PANASONIC ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS, Electrolytic Capacitor, 2200 µF, 10 V, HD Series, ± 20%, Radial Leaded, 10 mm | Farnell element14

Many thanks!

Ed

Last edited by The Beatsmith; 1st February 2017 at 07:48 PM..
Old 1st February 2017
  #70
I'd be interested to know that too before I finally make my purchase. Had a look through my bookmarks and this was the part I had that spoke about what type of caps to get, from Jakob of Gyraf:

"90% of the SPX90 psu's I've repair'd suffer'd from bad electrolytics on the low-voltage side. This because it runs much hotter than the 85-degree lytics like.

Try exchanging all the low-voltahe electrolytics to low-esr 105-degrees types - most of the time this will fix it..

Jakob E."

The link I posted is rated at 105C and as far as I can remember I looked up what a low ESR was and that one fit the bill. Looks like a couple of yours are only rated at 85F so maybe see if there's any 105F ones. Some of those don't list the ESR either, not sure why but maybe it's listed in the PDF specs.

Last edited by Jesse Skeens; 3rd February 2017 at 02:35 PM..
Old 3rd February 2017
  #72
Quote:

Cheers, yes meant C not F, sorry. Fixed now.
Old 4th February 2017
  #73
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dfchandler's Avatar
 

My opinion:
If you have one of these spx effects boxes, and they have original caps,
replace all of the electrolytics now.
These are over 20 years old. Way past their life span.

Denny
Old 4th February 2017
  #74
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The Beatsmith's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by dfchandler View Post
My opinion:
If you have one of these spx effects boxes, and they have original caps,
replace all of the electrolytics now.
These are over 20 years old. Way past their life span.

Denny
Hi Denny,

Yes, that's what we're trying to do... just looking for clarification on the power supply cap types listed

Cheers,

Ed
Old 5th February 2017
  #75
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When replacing existing caps, I look for matching the voltage and capacitance. Then the 105C rating. Next, I start with my favorite types/brands, then price.
I am not as picky on power supply caps as I am the caps in the audio path.

Denny
Old 30th April 2017
  #76
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elasticc's Avatar
 

Don't want to hijack the thread, but i have a SPX1000 and it has some random crackle/surface noise/pink noise coming from the right channel every now and then.

just wondered if anyone had any tips or help for fixing it?

Many thanks guys
Old 1st May 2017
  #77
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Studerfreak's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by elasticc View Post
Don't want to hijack the thread, but i have a SPX1000 and it has some random crackle/surface noise/pink noise coming from the right channel every now and then.

just wondered if anyone had any tips or help for fixing it?

Many thanks guys
Instead of "hijacking" a thread you might have started a new SPX1000 thread here....
You can still do that and keep this thread SPX90.
Old 22nd December 2017
  #78
Gear Maniac
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjrippe View Post
I am simply replacing it with a linear PSU. All you need is +/- 18 volts and +5 volts.
Does anyone know roughly whats the power consumption of the SPX90 for each rail?

I can build a Linear PSU, but I can only go 1Amp max for each rail, would that be enough ?

thank you
Old 22nd December 2017
  #79
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The Beatsmith's Avatar
 

BTW, just to update that I ended up sending it to someone in London (putney) and he replaced all the caps very cheaply. It's been working a treat and I'd like to buy another!
Old 24th December 2017
  #80
Gear Maniac
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by iLCacciLLo View Post
Does anyone know roughly whats the power consumption of the SPX90 for each rail?

I can build a Linear PSU, but I can only go 1Amp max for each rail, would that be enough ?

thank you
the 5V rail power consumption is around 500mA.

Does anyone know the power consumption on the +18V and -18V rails?

thanks
Old 3rd May 2019
  #81
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Beatsmith View Post
BTW, just to update that I ended up sending it to someone in London (putney) and he replaced all the caps very cheaply. It's been working a treat and I'd like to buy another!
Still working? Just ordered my caps after 3 years. Saw this post just now and probably could have taken it to the same tech but should be an easy enough job.
Old 3rd May 2019
  #82
Gear Maniac
Remove ALL the yellow glue and make sure none of the components have been eaten by it or eaten by a cap that has leaked. BOTH cause big problems.

I didn't realize until yesterday that it's +/-18v. Those are some large rails. Hard to find a replacement power supply if these ever bite the dust.
Old 3rd May 2019
  #83
Quote:
Originally Posted by grantb3 View Post
Remove ALL the yellow glue and make sure none of the components have been eaten by it or eaten by a cap that has leaked. BOTH cause big problems.

I didn't realize until yesterday that it's +/-18v. Those are some large rails. Hard to find a replacement power supply if these ever bite the dust.
Thanks. For the R18 it's 1.5k but not wattage listed. Is 5w enough or should I get something larger (10-15).

I've yet to hear of anyone in these threads replace a resistor but might try it if the caps don't do the trick.
Old 3rd May 2019
  #84
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The Beatsmith's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse Skeens View Post
Still working? Just ordered my caps after 3 years. Saw this post just now and probably could have taken it to the same tech but should be an easy enough job.
Still working!

Was using it today
Old 3rd May 2019
  #85
Gear Maniac
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse Skeens View Post
Thanks. For the R18 it's 1.5k but not wattage listed. Is 5w enough or should I get something larger (10-15).

I've yet to hear of anyone in these threads replace a resistor but might try it if the caps don't do the trick.
I had to replace that one and a ceramic disc capacitor (C29?) that had legs eaten by the glue or cap guts. A 1/4w or better should do. I just used a regular through hole resistor.
Old 3rd May 2019
  #86
Quote:
Originally Posted by grantb3 View Post
Remove ALL the yellow glue and make sure none of the components have been eaten by it...
It's epoxy glue. If anything, it's corrosion resistant. Does not eat components. I can find no evidence that has ever been an issue. What's your source?
Old 3rd May 2019
  #87
Gear Maniac
Quote:
Originally Posted by madtheory View Post
It's epoxy glue. If anything, it's corrosion resistant. Does not eat components. I can find no evidence that has ever been an issue. What's your source?
Omg, that stuff's famous. Ask any experienced tech.

https://www.electronicspoint.com/for...-boards.61364/

Was (is?) used all over the electronics world. Becomes hygroscopic and eats components like Pac Man. Chomp, chomp, chomp...
Old 3rd May 2019
  #88
Quote:
Originally Posted by grantb3 View Post
Omg, that stuff's famous. Ask any experienced tech.

https://www.electronicspoint.com/for...-boards.61364/

Was (is?) used all over the electronics world. Becomes hygroscopic and eats components like Pac Man. Chomp, chomp, chomp...
I am an experienced tech, always willing to learn That link says something completely different than you said. Says it becomes conductive not corrosive. Show me some real evidence please?
Old 3rd May 2019
  #89
Lives for snowflakes
 
12ax7's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by grantb3 View Post
Omg, that stuff's famous. Ask any experienced tech.

https://www.electronicspoint.com/for...-boards.61364/

Was (is?) used all over the electronics world. Becomes hygroscopic and eats components like Pac Man. Chomp, chomp, chomp...
Here's what I've been using for that sorta thing for about 20 years:
(Never had a problem with it.)
.
Old 3rd May 2019
  #90
Gear Maniac
Sorry, my wording wasn't great. Net result is components get eaten such as on my SPX90 (photos someplace). Possibly the conductive nature causes issues that in turn eat resistors? Maybe hastens the cap destruction?

More discussion on glues and their affects:

https://electronics.stackexchange.co...oid-vibrations
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