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Rode NT1 Capsule Replacement
Old 27th February 2011 | Show parent
  #91
Gear Nut
 
proletarian's Avatar
 
1 Review written
🎧 5 years
Sound Samples

Here is a comparison between my Stock C1 (which I love) and the NT1 with the new capsule and head basket.

I put both mics up in the same position, I didn't bother with moving them to get a good sound, I just aimed them at the bottom of the neck and screwed around.

It wasn't about getting a good sound, just comparing them. I ran them through regular old stock digi 002 pres set to the same tick marks.

I won't sit and comment on the differences, because they are very clear. I'm very happy with what I got out of this little experiment.

Again, a new crayon to color outside the lines with for a total of 180 bucks.
First link is the mod, second is the stock C1.

NT-1 Mod

C1 Stock
Old 27th April 2011 | Show parent
  #92
Here for the gear
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by truethomas2 View Post
the NT1 polarization voltage is probably about 60v

I have used 47 style capsules with 60v polarisation no problems, but it will of course depend on the individual capsule. the oktava capsule I used mentioned earlier in this thread is a 47 style, and works fine on the NT1 body without any modification to the circuit.

the NT1 like other schoeps based designs uses a DC converter with an oscillator to create the polarization voltage, parts L3 and L4 and Q4 C11 and C12 are likely doing this the output voltage is determined by the input voltage and the input voltage is usually determined by a zener diode - i don't see one close by, but D3 might be doing this. I'd have to trace the circuit more to be sure

you can get a semi accurate reading on polarisation voltage by putting a 100M resistor in series with your DMM, then assuming your DMM has 10M input impedance multiply the reading you get by 11 to get a closer to true value than using the DMM alone. my DMM is 20M so I multiply by 6 instead of 11. reading might still be 3v low or so,but it will be much closer
Hi all,
Sorry to revive an old thread but have searched far and wide with no answers in sight.
I am currently trying to mod an Rode nt2 with a k47 style capsule and have had some success but the the sound is a little strong in the 4-5k region making it a bit nasty on some sources, I'm thinking it could be due to the k67 Polarization voltage requirements being higher that of the k47 which I hear sounds best between 55 to 60 V.

Does anybody know the best way to reduce the capsule voltage on the Rode nt2? is the zener at D3 the answer?
Old 28th April 2011 | Show parent
  #93
Gear Head
 
🎧 10 years
I haven't checked, I feel no need to as my NT1 bodies are great as they are.

have you actually measured the polarization voltage as outlined above?

the NT1 is essentially a classic schoeps circuit, if you study that and learn what the parts are it wont be hard to find the correct zener to adjust the voltage. the original shoeps even has a trimpot to adjust the polarisation voltage.

you say an NT2 though - I haven't seen one and couldn't say how similar they are, can you post a pic of the board?

what 47 capsule are you using?

if i get time i could measure my NT1, but there's not much point if it is different to the NT2.
Old 28th April 2011 | Show parent
  #94
Gear Head
 
🎧 10 years
I should add, if you are looking for a classic 47 sound, you'd be better off using a different circuit entirely, I've made some based on a K84 circuit with a single fet and a transformer that sound fantastic, (but they are expensive lundahl transformers).
Old 28th April 2011 | Show parent
  #95
Gear Head
 
🎧 10 years
OK, i've measured my NT1

d3 has about 6v across it, I'm therefore confident that it is the DC converter input regulation zener as I thought.

I measured the polarisation voltage at R9, and to my surprise, it seems to only be about 40v! (that's allowing for measurement difficulties with the meter dragging down the reading)

so i doubt that that is what is causing your tonal problems, unless it is different in your one of course.
Old 28th April 2011 | Show parent
  #96
Gear Head
 
🎧 10 years
I'm actually tempted to try increasing that zener to 7v or even 8v, since my capsules perform well at 55-60v in other circuits.
Old 3rd May 2012 | Show parent
  #97
Gear Head
 
🎧 10 years
Hi all
Does anyone know where to get replacement capsules for the RODE NT1a mics please
Willing to experiment with different types-if neccessary
There must be a way to get spare cpasules for this-as Im not skilled enough to replace the foil
Ive cleaned the foil very carefully with a small soft camel hair brush and de-ionised water, but it works for a few seconds, then after a plosive sound-stops-I guess it sticks to the back plate-orits damaged/torn-not sure

Thanks in anticioation
Old 14th August 2012 | Show parent
  #98
Gear Head
 
🎧 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by valvusmusicus View Post
Does anyone know where to get replacement capsules for the RODE NT1a mics?

Ive cleaned the foil very carefully with a small soft camel hair brush and de-ionised water, but it works for a few seconds, then after a plosive sound-stops-I guess it sticks to the back plate-orits damaged/torn-not sure
Try Rode. Their service dept. is very helpful.

Is this an unmodified Rode? Was the mike working before your 'cleaning'? Can you see the diaphragm collapse to the backplate when it 'plops'?
Old 28th November 2012
  #99
Gear Head
 
1 Review written
🎧 5 years
I had OctavaMod's $400 U87 modification done, and I am IN LOVE with this microphone now. I also had a pair done by John Bonnell (just the electronics) and use these as my main OH mics as they're a LOT smoother than stock.

Recommend getting the mods done. It's an "ok" mic, "good" for the money, when it's stock, but the potential of that low-noise circuitry is compromised by the inexpensive (read: grungy sounding) electronics that are supporting an otherwise respectable 5dB noise-floor.
Old 23rd December 2012
  #100
Here for the gear
 
🎧 5 years
Is this an example of the high end issues with the Rodes NT1-A

Hello All, found this great post which evidently involves the person who designed the microphone I am using!

I just did some recording with a friend and have run across a disturbing buzzing sound in the original recording. I'm wondering if this buzzing sound is a symptom of the issues being discussed about the NT1-A.

Here is a sample of the recording.

https://www.box.com/s/rk0se1ygvx7fgpwk28mt

very pronounced in 'pullin' weeds and pickin' stones'
Old 14th March 2017 | Show parent
  #101
Les
Lives for gear
 
Les's Avatar
 
🎧 10 years
Matt at microphone parts is correct. Removing properly designed grilles don't "open up" the sound. And yes a lot of work has been done on grille design at the majors. At Shure we used to take a manometer to fabric stores to measure acoustic impedance. I still do, but using a computerized device.

What does an improperly designed grille do?

In general it acts as a wave plate. In the center between the front and back
there will be a pressure drop and a pressure gradient peak. so it causes a response dip in an omni capsule and a response peak in a figure 8 capsule.
In a cardioid mic the effect tends to cancel.

In some mics the grille is used to tailor the response on purpose. In the Coles 4038 ribbon the grille supplies a 4dB peak at about 12kHz to flatten high frequency loss. We do a similar thing with ours.
Old 1st April 2017 | Show parent
  #102
Gear Addict
 
🎧 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Williams View Post
Lucky boy. You have an original NT-1.

I designed it with super low noise Hitachi transistors and a Siliconix rf jfet. As you can see it has German Roederstein metal film resistors and Wima polypropylene film caps. As it is there is little to do to improve it. It was built "modified".

There are no frequency feedback nets in that design. There are a pair of 470 pf caps at the base of each Hitachi output transistor to ground that you can increase the value of to lower hf bandwidth. Try 1500 or 2200 pf.

Jim Williams
Audio Upgrades
Well I found this thread recently after picking up a mint condition NT1 and after wading through all the theories and various flavours of bull**** I thought I would take Jim's simple advice regarding switching the caps.
It works really well and my son and I settled on the 2200pf ones.... I feel like I now have the Jim Williams NT1 the way he intended, and it's very nice indeed. The mod cost 80cents and 10 minutes work.... Thanks Jim wherever you may be.
BTW I picked up the mic for $30.

Last edited by Mikey77; 2nd May 2017 at 01:06 PM.. Reason: typo
Old 1st April 2017 | Show parent
  #103
Gear Addict
 
🎧 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by Les View Post
Matt at microphone parts is correct. Removing properly designed grilles don't "open up" the sound. And yes a lot of work has been done on grille design at the majors. At Shure we used to take a manometer to fabric stores to measure acoustic impedance. I still do, but using a computerized device.

What does an improperly designed grille do?

In general it acts as a wave plate. In the center between the front and back
there will be a pressure drop and a pressure gradient peak. so it causes a response dip in an omni capsule and a response peak in a figure 8 capsule.
In a cardioid mic the effect tends to cancel.

In some mics the grille is used to tailor the response on purpose. In the Coles 4038 ribbon the grille supplies a 4dB peak at about 12kHz to flatten high frequency loss. We do a similar thing with ours.
Thanks Les... Someone removed my link to Mic-Parts for some reason. Shame they don't spend a bit more time removing the guys that incessantly market their wares around the site.
It's interesting to see the small, "congested" grilles on the TLM102 and the Gefell 930 etc. Those guys just don't know how to make proper mics.
Old 10th October 2017 | Show parent
  #104
Gear Addict
 
🎧 10 years
Just as a follow up to this thread I started a new thread to illustrate the Mod that Jim Williams suggests earlier in this thread.
A simple mod for the early Rode NT1 from Jim Williams
Old 6th November 2017
  #105
Lives for gear
 
5 Reviews written
🎧 10 years
@ Jim Williams

What would happen if one was to carefuly cut the thick metal bar in front of the capsule after moding the mic with the 2200pf ?
Old 14th January 2019
  #106
Gear Head
 
Hi! I´m new here. After reading a copule of times this thread, I´ve purchased one of that old white versions of the NT1 with the RODE vertical logo. Since this version seems to have a decent k67 type capsule, it will worth to buy a good (not cheap chineese) K47 capsule for it? And a CK12, it will be too bright?

My recording purposes involves acoustics, violins and male voice.

Thanks to all who wrote in this thread!
Old 14th January 2019 | Show parent
  #107
Gear Addict
 
🎧 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by LevinGuitar View Post
Hi! I´m new here. After reading a copule of times this thread, I´ve purchased one of that old white versions of the NT1 with the RODE vertical logo. Since this version seems to have a decent k67 type capsule, it will worth to buy a good (not cheap chineese) K47 capsule for it? And a CK12, it will be too bright?

My recording purposes involves acoustics, violins and male voice.

Thanks to all who wrote in this thread!
Before you go spending too much time or money on replacing the capsule..... do the simple mod that is explained in this other thread.

A simple mod for the early Rode NT1 from Jim Williams

If your existing capsule is in good shape you may be surprised at the result. Very smooth.
Old 14th January 2019 | Show parent
  #108
Gear Head
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey77 View Post
Before you go spending too much time or money on replacing the capsule.....
Thanks Mikey, I've saw your thread also and definetly will try it and compare results with my acoustics

By the way, I found the Amy Winehouse song that's supposed to be recorded whith this version of Rode and have the feeling that this mic can sound even better, so that's why my question about the capsule.

The song:
YouTube

The video:
YouTube
Old 26th January 2019 | Show parent
  #109
Gear Addict
 
🎧 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by LevinGuitar View Post
By the way, I found the Amy Winehouse song that's supposed to be recorded whith this version of Rode and have the feeling that this mic can sound even better, so that's why my question about the capsule.
No way of knowing but I would imagine that her NT1 was un-modded.

if it isn't enough to do the caps then Karloff recommended the Maiku K47... you'd then need to switch the caps back to the originals, otherwise it might be too dark.

MAIKU Capsules
Old 17th February 2020 | Show parent
  #110
Here for the gear
 
The components of this NT1, though through hole, look different from those at the first page. Anyone knows something about it?
Attached Thumbnails
Rode NT1 Capsule Replacement-nt1.jpg  
Old 22nd October 2020 | Show parent
  #111
Gear Maniac
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by s3mio View Post
The components of this NT1, though through hole, look different from those at the first page. Anyone knows something about it?
Good question !!

Also, I've read two versions. One, the bar in front of the capsule is the front and the bar is both a grounding rod for the mic and also there to limit plosives.

The other is that the bar side is the rear of the capsule.

Which is correct?
Old 22nd October 2020 | Show parent
  #112
Gear Addict
 
🎧 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorquin View Post
Good question !!

Also, I've read two versions. One, the bar in front of the capsule is the front and the bar is both a grounding rod for the mic and also there to limit plosives.

The other is that the bar side is the rear of the capsule.

Which is correct?
The bar is at the rear of the capsule for grounding.
Old 23rd October 2020 | Show parent
  #113
Gear Maniac
 
🎧 5 years
Thanks Mikey77.

I just received an older cream version of the NT1 today and once I connected it to my mixer it was easy to tell which side is the front.

Mine also has the same white caps as the one pictured above which are not labeled Wima, but the green caps are Wima.

I don't know who made the white caps.

From what I've read the capsule with the white plastic ring around the capsule(which mine does have) is a 797 Audio made in Beijing. ??

I'll have to do a before and after recording once I get the 2200 pf caps in.

I also have an MCA SP1 that I modded a few years back that I can compare it to.
Old 23rd October 2020
  #114
Gear Guru
One of the better mods for these mics is to rewire the capsule so the polarization voltage is applied to the backplate, not the diaphragm. You short the 1 meg feed resistor off the oscillator pcb and wire it to the backplate, wire the diaphragm directly to the jfet gate and reverse the output pins 2 and 3 (it's out of phase this way). This way the input blocking cap to the jfet gate is removed, a clearer signal path.
Old 23rd October 2020 | Show parent
  #115
Gear Maniac
 
🎧 5 years
Jim,

So looking at the schematic:

Lift the ground from back plate

Short 1M resistor (R12) on oscillator PCB

Move "B" wire to the backplate, leave C12 as is

Leave R8 (1G) resistor with N/C to "B"

Or should R8 be removed so it doesn't act like an antenna?

Short C13 or remove C13 and put a jumper in.

Reverse the output pins 2 & 3

Will that do it?

Thanks!
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