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Diy ribbon mic scrapheap challenge
Old 2 weeks ago
  #1
Here for the gear
 

Diy ribbon mic scrapheap challenge

Given the current climate, I decided to see if I could make a ribbon mic for as little as possible, with some success!

I decided to repurpose a broken ribbon tweeter I had lying around taking some of the magnets out and the burnt tweeter. trying to keep the purchasing to a minimum I used craft imitation silver for the ribbon, and bought a t25 shinhom Transformer. for the mic body I used an old railing pipe and the of and xlr cable for the connector.

Some of the snags I hit when making this was that it was pretty quiet! it had quite and audible hiss and some grounding noises!

I was thinking the hiss and quietness was maybe to do with the spacing of the magnets? they're about a 1cm apart, so the ribbon had to be quite wide there for heavier, I did make it thinner but that didn't make much difference.

Also could the grounding issue have something to do with the body being made of steel? or using the xlr cable as the connector?

Any pointers for this would be helpful! it started as a side project but I've gone further down this rabbit hole then I anticipated, I may start again make the body based on royer shaped body with a perspex motor and aluminium body.

Thanks!
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Old 2 weeks ago
  #2
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Dr. Jule's Avatar
 

Very cool project! Good luck!
Old 1 week ago
  #3
Here for the gear
 

A narrower ribbon will have more output, not because of the lower weight but
from a much higher field strength due to the closeness of the magnets.

For this reason many mics have a ribbon width of less than 1.5mm.

An increase in front to back path length increases low frequency output but reduces high frequencies. When the path length equals one wavelength output is zero.

The imitation silver leaf is a bit too thin for an optimum ribbon.

A magnetic return structure will increase output as well.

To decrease hum use two wires at the top and one at the bottom. That will make the motor hum bucking.

To learn more you can read this from my website:
[url]http://lmwattstechnology.com/microphone/polyribbon/polyribbonstory
Old 5 days ago
  #4
Here for the gear
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by leswatts View Post
A narrower ribbon will have more output, not because of the lower weight but
from a much higher field strength due to the closeness of the magnets.

For this reason many mics have a ribbon width of less than 1.5mm.

An increase in front to back path length increases low frequency output but reduces high frequencies. When the path length equals one wavelength output is zero.

The imitation silver leaf is a bit too thin for an optimum ribbon.

A magnetic return structure will increase output as well.

To decrease hum use two wires at the top and one at the bottom. That will make the motor hum bucking.

To learn more you can read this from my website:
[url]http://lmwattstechnology.com/microphone/polyribbon/polyribbonstory
Thanks for the pointers, because I was using a pre made adam ribbon tweeter the spacings were pre determined, I've since started a new one with a much narrower spacing. fingers crossed this one sounds better!
Old 4 days ago
  #5
Here for the gear
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcuswcw View Post
Given the current climate, I decided to see if I could make a ribbon mic for as little as possible, with some success!

I decided to repurpose a broken ribbon tweeter I had lying around taking some of the magnets out and the burnt tweeter. trying to keep the purchasing to a minimum I used craft imitation silver for the ribbon, and bought a t25 shinhom Transformer. for the mic body I used an old railing pipe and the of and xlr cable for the connector.

Some of the snags I hit when making this was that it was pretty quiet! it had quite and audible hiss and some grounding noises!

I was thinking the hiss and quietness was maybe to do with the spacing of the magnets? they're about a 1cm apart, so the ribbon had to be quite wide there for heavier, I did make it thinner but that didn't make much difference.

Also could the grounding issue have something to do with the body being made of steel? or using the xlr cable as the connector?

Any pointers for this would be helpful! it started as a side project but I've gone further down this rabbit hole then I anticipated, I may start again make the body based on royer shaped body with a perspex motor and aluminium body.

Thanks!
The project is really wonderful! thnx
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