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Shade-Tree Repair Guide: Fixing the Crackling/Static in KRK Rokit peakers
Old 30th October 2018
  #31
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Hey, everybody seems to have issues with the pcb with the amps on it but mine seems to work fine if i swap it with the one from my working speaker. So I did the same with the other pcb and bingo, well not really but the hf was gone again. So I suspect that the other board is faulty. This speaker has been repaired years ago when still in warranty and I think I've found the 2 caps they replaced. Thing is I don't know how to measure these caps. The power on all opamps is ok and there isn't all that much bgod on this board. Hope someone can lead me to resolving the issue.
Old 30th October 2018
  #32
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Richard Crowley's Avatar
If the problem is really one or two capacitors, simply replace them on speculation
If there was nothing wrong with them, then no harm, no foul.
Capacitors are cheap and replacing them is easy
Old 31st October 2018
  #33
Brb
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the awful glue gunk stuff they used has melted the inside one of my monitors. forcing me to mix in mono with actually helped my mixes a lot but it still sucks that one monitor is good and one is unusable
Old 1st November 2018
  #34
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I changed those two caps but the problem isn't resolved completely yet. I do hear a signal but it's very weak. So apparently those caps aren't the only issue here. There could be one ore more opamps blown as well. There are three opamps that have a different production code so maybe these were also replaced in the previous fix. I'm waiting to hear back from someone who is selling a oscilloscope so it's on hold for now.
Old 8th November 2018
  #35
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I've the same buzzing noise on a KRK 10S new out of the box.
Reading this post I've got the impression that the problem is that "glue":...
Old 22nd November 2018
  #36
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So I've come to the conclusion that I'm going to have to get all the BGoD off my PCB but before getting far enough into researching this, I did pull the two caps and resistors that OP originally thought were the cause on his board. My Rokit8's though had 4700uf caps not 3300. Would these be alright replacements?

UVY1H472MRD Nichicon | Capacitors | DigiKey
Old 22nd November 2018
  #37
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Yes, those caps are appropriate replacements.
However it is very unlikely those capacitors are the source of the problem.
So replacing them has little chance of fixing the problem.
Old 23rd November 2018
  #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Crowley View Post
Yes, those caps are appropriate replacements.
However it is very unlikely those capacitors are the source of the problem.
So replacing them has little chance of fixing the problem.
Yeah, I figured since I already took them off the board I'd replace them with new ones. I'll get to scraping off black goo while they ship and hopefully I'll have a working monitor again once the black goo is all gone.
Old 23rd April 2019
  #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyberish View Post
I've the same buzzing noise on a KRK 10S new out of the box.
Reading this post I've got the impression that the problem is that "glue":...
A fellow KRK user sent me this. I would like to share it with you as there must be quiet a lot of people out there with the same issues...
Attached Files
File Type: pdf KRK_10S_Service_manual_05:2009.pdf (667.6 KB, 125 views)
Old 26th November 2019
  #40
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Does anybody happen to know what kind of resistors these are? Watts/Amps?

All of mine got blown due to the black goop....
Attached Thumbnails
Shade-Tree Repair Guide: Fixing the Crackling/Static in KRK Rokit peakers-2019-11-27_00-03-40_092.jpg  
Old 29th November 2019
  #41
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M.Retra's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by avmack View Post
Does anybody happen to know what kind of resistors these are? Watts/Amps?

All of mine got blown due to the black goop....
In that location that you have circled are four components. From left to right, with the right being closest to the JP9 jumper and R108 big resistor, the components are as follows: DL100 and DL101 are both 1N4148 small signal diodes. RL106 and RL105 are 30K and 10K resistors, respectively. The resistors are 1/8W, but 1/4W will be just fine.
Old 1 week ago
  #42
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Hi all and a big big thank you for creating and maintaining this thread - it has been an absolutely great help to me - so far.
To not blow up my post, I'd like to ask some advice for my problem with the BGoD.

I baught a pair of KRK Rokit 8 Generation 2, one of them with very low volume, no tweeter sound and a crackling yet quiet noise - so after reading these posts and opening up my Speaker I was not suprised to find the Black Goo of Death all over the place:
(I am not allowed image links yet, please refer to here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/z1FreRA1QQRN99xN9

I took a good 4 hours, a pick, acetone and my "everything will be okay" mantra and cleaned out all of the gunk I could reach. I removed the 4700, 1000 and two smaller Caps to get better access and inspec them - all caps looked fine, however the goo got way into both amps, so I also removed the heatsink, cleaned it out and hoped for the best (Lesson learned: the plastic foil between amp and heatsink was there for a reason - I know, don't judge, I am learning ).
On the upside: I got rid of the crackling noise, on the downside, the volume was still very low and no tweeter still (so same behavior as before my repair attempt.

My feeling here is that I need to replace both amps - do you agree with my asumption? The Caps still look fine and no other components were blown after my little "amp-tab-isolation-fail" apart from the main fuse.
I'd like to get your opinion on this - the last image in the album shows how the TDA7294 looked like after cleaning.

Thanks again so much for all the help that I already got!
/squirralex

*****EDIT 21. Jan ******
Part A: So I decided to change both Amps on the board with some success: The woofer is still quiet but louder and clearer than before. Still no sign of life from the tweeter. Funny effect is that when I turn off the power while music is playing, it gets louder just before going mute.
Now the funny Part B starts: When I checked the tweeter (wanted to look at it to source replacement), it seemed to be very losely connected - I re-attached and got it back to working -- yaay.
I then changed the back side of my good-rokit with the one on my bad-rokit and got it fully functional again - problem is obviously on the boards of the bad-rokit. So right now the only thing I am missing is loudness, which is about half in my bad-rokit compared to my good-rokit.

Last edited by Squirralex; 1 day ago at 08:10 PM.. Reason: Readability edit
Old 1 day ago
  #43
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Oooooh YEAH, success, I brought it back to life!!!!
After the initial edit I was hungry for more, replaced two large Caps (just because they were the reason for many problems in all the other posts) and I got my Rokit back to full boost. I am playing them side by side now and they are sounding perfectly fine.

Retrospective:
I tried a lot and in the end am not sure, if all these steps were neccessary - just to be clear for anyone reading my post, cthink about the order of your steps and maybe save a little time and a couple of bucks.

- Initial crackling was probably caused by the BGoD.
- The missing tweeter was probably due to the weak connection in the front - So it ispossible that changing the TDA2052 was not neccessary.
- Missing volume overall: I am pretty certain that this was a corrupt TDA7294 (got better after changing it) AND the Caps (returned to full power after Cap replacement).

Thanks again for all the post and keeping this guide alive, next step is to clean out my good speaker so it does not turn bad ;-)
Have a great day folks, I am going to see how far I can go before my neighbours come and yell at me
Old 22 hours ago
  #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squirralex View Post
Oooooh YEAH, success, I brought it back to life!!!!

- Initial crackling was probably caused by the BGoD.
- The missing tweeter was probably due to the weak connection in the front - So it ispossible that changing the TDA2052 was not neccessary.
- Missing volume overall: I am pretty certain that this was a corrupt TDA7294 (got better after changing it) AND the Caps (returned to full power after Cap replacement).
Congrats! Add another happy customer to the roster!

The BGoD is the root of all evil. Like in Time Bandits, it's actually "concentrated evil. One drop of that will turn you all into hermit crabs!" ...or at least destroy KRK's very own creation. Therefore, it is without a doubt the cause of the crackling and the failure of the components in your speakers, including the capacitors...not by physically touching them, but rather by conducting and causing leakage currents, high/stray voltages, and/or abnormal current draws.

Curious..which capacitors did you replace to return the volume back to normal? Should be a little number next to them, e.g. C105, etc. The high-freq and low-freq amplifiers both have MUTE circuits in their design...either that or causing the LF/HF drivers to lock down on a DC bias.
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