I'd highly recommend popping the lid before applying power and giving it a thorough visual inspection looking for any signs of leakage from the caps and more importantly the Backup battery which will be long past its use by date.
If there's no obvious corrosion then replace the battery and if you do take the plunge, cross your fingers and power it up then it will be necessary to do a Factory Reset before it makes much sense as all the User patch data will be screwed up.
Cheers, Pat.
Got a new JV-1080, still unboxed, never used, bought around 1994. Would it still work?
OMG!!!
If only you were Cambridge UK, I would have bought it. You might know I'm a JV/JD fan since mid 90's. This would come as an icing on a cake. It would actually be operated with gloves only.
Regarding will it work, there is a small chapter in my FAQ called "Quality issues with JV/XP series" which I highly advise you to read as it details exactly about the things that worry you:
I'd highly recommend popping the lid before applying power and giving it a thorough visual inspection looking for any signs of leakage from the caps and more importantly the Backup battery which will be long past its use by date.
If there's no obvious corrosion then replace the battery and if you do take the plunge, cross your fingers and power it up then it will be necessary to do a Factory Reset before it makes much sense as all the User patch data will be screwed up.
Hope it works.
You should have written him a letter to tell him instead.
If only you were Cambridge UK, I would have bought it. You might know I'm a JV/JD fan since mid 90's. This would come as an icing on a cake. It would actually be operated with gloves only.
Regarding will it work, there is a small chapter in my FAQ called "Quality issues with JV/XP series" which I highly advise you to read as it details exactly about the things that worry you:
I enjoyed the read. It really surprised me to read that the reconstruction filters in the JV DAC are so poor to leave all those images beyond 16k. There seems to be a lot of energy at 24kHz in your example. The reconstruction is quite poor, but I guess unlike the other type of aliasing, when foldover is below the Nyquist (e.g. transposing a wave carelessly), it is not so objectionable (I certainly can't hear beyond 16k).
Interesting you noted that people say a DAC can't produce a signal with energy beyond the Nyquist, which is obviously mistaken. Maybe they're thinking of the ideal DAC, or maybe they are confusing ADC with DAC.
Funny thing this thread keeps bumping up. I got a 1080 again recently although I've got an XP80 as well. It's lovely to rediscover this old rack mounted friend. It really sounds warm and the piano sounds in all their simplicity actually sound pretty convincing. I've not compared them with my XP but I might do so. I don't like comparing videos though as this is something I rather do myself. One thing I do know though is that the 1080 is faster over (multiple) midi, which is kind of why I got one again.
remember that looking interesting - is there a function where you assign a pattern to a midi note, with the sequencer?
i have a 1080 mainly because it was 100eu and local, and memories of the 880 owned many years before, which i happily replaced with an emu. same sort of rompler deal but easier.
Why Cambridge, UK?
your sig says that you are in Hamamatsu, Japan.
Oh you mean "Current deployment" signature?
It's a reference to company I currently work for and their respective HQ's location. Just like it said Waldorf / Remagen Germany until recently. So that one does not confuse me for someone working for Waldorf Hotels in New York. Or if I were to work for Moog it would say - "Current deployment: Moog Music, Asheville, North Carolina, U.S". That way I don't ever get confused for being employed here:
I have both. The 2080 is fine. However, if you feel the 1080 sound is *far* superior, use the 2080 as an editor for the 1080 with its large graphic display. Works perfectly when editing using the internal waveforms.