The C78 pads are still extraordinarly intricate soldering work even with as tiny of tip as you can likely get your hands on, though not unbearably harrowing as trying to connect to the SMC. Blackout has mad like stupid mad skills and nerve, be sure of that.

I stress that damaging surrounding components with an average iron/tip should be a top concern for any novice solderer.
I mentioned earlier ITT that I used a variable iron of good quality and kept it as low as I seemed to be able to melt the (very thin gauge) solder. I also mentioned that I believe hotter may have been a better way to go; an immediate flash bond rather than having the heat in the area of the adjacent parts, but a clean and tiny tip, steady and pro technique are critical, even the C78 pads. Zero room for fumbling about, which is why perhaps the lower wattage iron may be the most prudent way to go, b/c one even instantaneous slip elsewhere on the board to any of the SMC can melt those SMC off shockingly fast.

Hey, I didn't know if this could be a good thread to ask about the volca beats but I figure someone might have a work around for my issue since you have some modding going on. So I love the v-beats, BUT I'm really disappointed with the individual part volumes. The Kick decimates everything in a mix and the PCM's are so faint. My question is do any of you have a solution to keeping the part volumes set to a way that works for me without having to set each part's volume level every time I turn it on? So far I have found that there is nothing in the joke of a manual available from Korg's website and it's just annoying when I want to record to have to set the volume's every single time. Talk about crushing my inspiration with techincal junk, but I get it's a budget piece of gear so I'm not expecting any solutions other than I have to do this to get the results I want. Any help is appreciated. And if anyone knows how to mod the volca so you can over write the pcm sample slots with your own pcm samples that would be a great mod to come up with.

If part balancing is a big concern, maybe you should think about the individual outs mods. The connections/soldering part of that mod is pretty easy. The hardest part is adding the physical jacks. I love the outs mod and now couldn't imagine using the Beats without separate outs. Being able to process/effect each part separately is now a must for me.
However it does mean you need to have extra separate mixer channels or interface inputs available.

You could put it through a limiter/maximizer. I tend to just record my parts in separately into the DAW and go from there.

Hey, thanks for the suggestions. I don't really record at a serious level as far as separating each individual part. Sure I separately record the drum line and the synth line and so on, but I don't have a beat or loop going with only the kick and then go back and do the snare like that. I'll try the compressor I have with bandcamp as that's what I'm currently recording with, but when I record a drum track with all parts going I have to have it leveled to the quietest part which is usually one of the pcm parts. So I just dial down the kick, snare, and toms so they aren't way above what output I'm getting from say the agogo which especially when played at a slower speed seems to be barely more than one or two dots on my mixer's output and then I just boost the gain till it's where I want on bandcamp's recording level. Yeah, satansrobotho that individual level mod does sound like a good fix. I have at least 4 channels on my mixer to use at one time. So that mod, would that allow me to have a separate knob for each part? That would be perfect so long as I don't have to re-adjust them every time I turn it on to get them to those level's like you already have to with just the one knob. But at least that way I can mark where I like having them and just tweak them quickly at the start to set them. I still have a lot to learn so far as mixing levels and EQ'ing everything so my recordings don't have the pro smooth gloss where every part is in that perfect place but I don't mind my rough, crunchy, rawness so long as I'm having fun. And I just don't have fun doing the technical process though doing that pays off in the end in overall quality. It just makes my jam sess more of a task than just a jam.

is Blackout/Darren still around on this thread?
this is old but i thought i should link it up here,
the Muffwiggler thread re: a eurorack mod of
the VBeats:

https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/vi....php?p=1402134



for Kick/Snare/Toms,
he's got the 'last pads before VCA' outputs shown, 2 each,
in phase, and out of phase, which need to be summed.

just out of interest, really. (and if you look, there's labels
for Kick + Tom EG. the toms really need something.
more pitch control. the manual says they are resonator circuits,
so EG is really what creates the Bump/boom; don't know
if useful control is possible?)

(edit:duh, that can't be correct: In+Out of phase =cancel so it
must be something else)
------------------------------------------------------------

Hi, Don't know if anyones still on this one but i've just soldered the 104 cap in the c78 space. I have some double sided tape holding it in place with a bit of insulation tape under as not to touch the resistors. It seems like a good solder although i wouldn't really give it a prob.. is it a good idea to hot glue the spot or do you think its unwise as if it pops out while gluing it ill never get it off to try again. any ideas? Cheers :D

My modded beats (midi out, individual outs, snare 'fixes') has been running happy for a while now. All I did for the small components was attach some fine single core wire to the pads and use a through hole component, stuck down somewhere safe. My soldering iron has a tip about 5x bigger than the components so this seemed safe and also allowed me to trial different components without risk to trash the PCB.

Keep meaning to open it back up, once I get my first modular rig, it's bound to happen...

I would not do this. If it's working leave it be. Glue will only complicate and possibly eliminate possibility of further attempts, should they be needed.

If it comes loose, perhaps try the method in the post below yours.

Hi, yeah i'm doing that with the MIDI and Separates. i didn't think to do it for the cap as its a small component not a socket or pot. Anyhow decided it wasn't a good idea (I kind of answered my own question really) and put it back together. Very happy , sounds ace. I'm doing the MIDI tomorrow with enough length for a euro-rack breakout strip (another project in the making). Did you use the original points for kick , snare and tom or did you go down the Differential amplifier route? I'm going to try with just a cap on the one + side as well . Then try all of them to see which sounds the best. I'm very new to all this but i'm loving it should have got into this years ago lol. So much so it's why i'm typing this now as I woke up thinking about it all and can't get back to sleep!!! Thanks to you both for your replies

Hello, just took an out from kick and snare bottom far right (not Diff just K and S) and i'm getting a little bleed on top which on Kick its snare.. so if i connect the SDIFF to the K and KDIFF to the S would they cancel out the bleed? Also if thats not the case would i use an electrolytic capacitor from signal to ground and if so what would be the farad amount?

HI , So How do i do the white noise tom pot? I really like it.. have done all the others can't seem to get hold of you to find out on youtube:( Thanks for all your mods :P

So many experienced modders of Volca Beats here that has seen the internals that I would like to ask: is there a way to access 5V current inside Volca or do I need a power regulator? I would like to power some external equipment that requires 5V and avoid doubling power sources.

I've just ordered a pack of these 104s to do this VBeats Snare Mod,

I selected - 100nf (104) 50v Ceramic Disc Cap

https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/231179599601

Can someone just confirm I've ordered the right ones ?

If not, post a link (uk) to the correct ones.

Thanks in advance

yes they will do

hi there my first post goes here

so i did the midi out mod mod on the VB and after that i looked into the snare mod

bought the 100nf/50V cap and was looking forward to apply it

so i opened the VB and to my surprise the C78 pads where missing instead on the position is now C73 i bought the VB at the end of 2015 - i did the mod there and it worked

is there a thread where all of the mods are explained in more detail on how to apply them havent found anything despite searching like a moron ??

j4i: i know the solder joints are not the most beautyful ones but at least it works

thx in advance

You can see C73 is directly above the potentiometer on the right at the bottom of your pic.
I think the 8 in C78 just looks like a 3, bad silkscreening perhaps.

It seems blackout took down his vids of the mods. (Probably tired of people who bricked their Beats doing the mods contacting him for advice :P )
They were the most detailed chronicle of the mods I've seen.

sry for the late answer had much to do

yeah i also tought its missprinted but just asked here to be sure

You've probably figured out your answer by now, but for anyone wondering, this is generally a bad idea. Switching regulators like the TPS62112RSAR in the Volca Beats do typically have over current protection which will momentarily disable and restart the device in the event of a short circuit. However, if you continuously try to draw more current than it's able to provide, the built in protection can only do so much and eventually the regulator will fail. Often this entails the full input voltage (9v in this case) getting passed to the regulator output which will likely kill any 5v logic devices powered off of that rail.

Also, if anyone is interested in having their Beats modded (or if you have a damaged one that needs saving) contact me here. 9Lives Repair - 9Lives Repair & Metatronic Mods

Snare drum modified for $30 shipped to the continental US. 1-day turnaround time for snare modifications and many repairs. I've got a 100% success rate repairing Beats that were previously damaged from a snare mod attempt, and in many cases can do any needed repairs at no extra cost.

cool! can you do any of the other mods (midi out, separate outs, tom/pcm mods, etc)?

The MIDI and PCM mods are no problem. I don't know the Tom mod, but I might poke around on it some time, or if Blackout is still around here maybe we can work something out.

I'm not doing separate outs on an individual basis right now, too much work to do right (the only way to pull off the snare without getting noise bleed through is to use the differential output from the VCA, and that requires installing an additional op-amp, hooking up power, etc.). Anyways, I've been working on an expansion board for the Beats off and on for the last several years. The final prototype is done and includes per channel audio outs and trig outs, per channel trig ins, and a mess of CV control. So for now I'll be more focused on getting the boards made than doing more extensive mods on an individual basis. On my site there's a sign up for a mailing list to get a notification when it becomes available.

I think I might have cooked one of my SMD parts, is that something you could fix?

The only things I can't fix/replace are the input and main microcontrollers, since I don't have access to the firmware to flash new chips. So as long as the problem isn't with one of those you're good.

And I'm comfortable with basic PCB rework procedures, so damage to the PCB itself ie. ripped up traces are fine.

Is there anyone in the U.K. That can do these mods? Please let me know.

I'm after the individual out mod, the midi out mod and the snare mod.

Thanks

Try this guy

Korg Volca Beats Modification Service Snare Mod & Volume Mod Manufacturing Fault | eBay

I tried that guy, he said he doesn't do them anymore because it was taking to much time.

Anyone else that can mod a volca beats with midi out and individual outs?

Thanks

Hi guys, just wanted to share my Daren's mod version. I have made an input for capacitors via raster 2.54mm pins so i can change them as i want. The Hihat mod is that little round switch.

Thanks Daren for your work, its a better unit now.

what's the hihat mod?
i like the cap sitting there like that !