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I have joined the cult of Eventide H3000
Old 27th July 2016
  #1441
Quote:
Originally Posted by italo de angelis View Post
I know you can get good service from Steve Lenham at Benden Sound UK.
Benden Sound Technology - Home
Cheers Italo!
Old 27th July 2016
  #1442
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italo de angelis's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by nodog View Post
Cheers Italo!

Cheers to you and good luck!
Any H3000 owner must have a natural right to use a well deserved full functional one.
Let us know...
Old 28th July 2016
  #1443
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TheBrightSide's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse Skeens View Post
Any fans here of the Rich Chorus preset (242)? That's like my 231 for synths now, works so well.
I haven't spent much time with that one, I'll have to have another listen.
My goto chorusy effect for strings/pads is Symphonic Chorus (#259).
It's pretty great, almost like an ensemble type effect.
Old 28th July 2016
  #1444
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBrightSide View Post
I haven't spent much time with that one, I'll have to have another listen.
My goto chorusy effect for strings/pads is Symphonic Chorus (#259).
It's pretty great, almost like an ensemble type effect.
Thanks for that, will give it a shot.
Old 29th July 2016
  #1445
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBrightSide View Post
I haven't spent much time with that one, I'll have to have another listen.
My goto chorusy effect for strings/pads is Symphonic Chorus (#259 ).
It's pretty great, almost like an ensemble type effect.
Good call, just check it out on the MKS80, really nice.

The Rich Chorus I'd probably use still on pop/radio type synths (it's a bit more static) but for more club/retro styles this #259 has got that extra woozyness that can work great there.
Old 30th July 2016
  #1446
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TheBrightSide's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse Skeens View Post
Good call, just check it out on the MKS80, really nice.

The Rich Chorus I'd probably use still on pop/radio type synths (it's a bit more static) but for more club/retro styles this #259 has got that extra woozyness that can work great there.
Ha, woozyness is a good word for it. It's probably best suited for more String Machine type sounds.
I did a mixdown today and put "Rich Chorus" accross several tracks, it's great as a thickener/sweetener.
By the way, have you tried the newish H910 plugin? It's pretty cool.
Old 30th July 2016
  #1447
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBrightSide View Post
Ha, woozyness is a good word for it. It's probably best suited for more String Machine type sounds.
I did a mixdown today and put "Rich Chorus" accross several tracks, it's great as a thickener/sweetener.
By the way, have you tried the newish H910 plugin? It's pretty cool.
Ha ya. It reminded me a little of the Roland Juno chorus although not exactly of course but somewhat similar feeling.


Cool, yes it can give some presence and 'big sound' without being too obvious.

I did, it's pretty cool. The UAD one had a 'bug' I found where it's calibrated differently so introduces more distortion/noise than the Native version. Not sure if they ended up fixing it but I liked that one more.

Oddy I just found it a bit too clean compared to the H3000. Not sure why as I know the modeled the conversion/output etc...

I've pretty much resigned myself to just tracking the H3000 when I need these sounds. That being said there's probably stuff the H910 can do that the H3000 doesn't.

Did you end up with the H910 then? I did a quick comparison with the H3000 and still need to learn where all the algos are that match what that and the H949 can do.
Old 30th July 2016
  #1448
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Instant H910 on the big tides...
just patch the LFO to pitch, with no more than +/-1 or 2 cents as max sweep--- like min -1 to max +2---- and use a random waveform.
Use a higher delay setting as the 910 has quite hefty delay latency even at 0 ms.... so use between 20 and 40 ms... use feedback as your ears will judge nice.
DONE!
On the DSP/H7/8000 units use the H3000 LFO module for the job.
Old 30th July 2016
  #1449
Quote:
Originally Posted by italo de angelis View Post
Instant H910 on the big tides...
just patch the LFO to pitch, with no more than +/-1 or 2 cents as max sweep--- like min -1 to max +2---- and use a random waveform.
Use a higher delay setting as the 910 has quite hefty delay latency even at 0 ms.... so use between 20 and 40 ms... use feedback as your ears will judge nice.
DONE!
On the DSP/H7/8000 units use the H3000 LFO module for the job.
Cheers Italo will give that a shot Btw is the Dual 910 basically doing what you described?
Old 30th July 2016
  #1450
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TheBrightSide's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse Skeens View Post
Did you end up with the H910 then? I did a quick comparison with the H3000 and still need to learn where all the algos are that match what that and the H949 can do.
Yes I thought I should get it while it's on special.
Really like it, it does a nice stereo spread but for me all the fun is in the feedback knob.
I was never crazy about the H3000 H910 emulation, but I'm interested to try Italo's tip.
Old 30th July 2016
  #1451
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBrightSide View Post
Yes I thought I should get it while it's on special.
Really like it, it does a nice stereo spread but for me all the fun is in the feedback knob.
I was never crazy about the H3000 H910 emulation, but I'm interested to try Italo's tip.
I think I did compare that pitch/fdbk trick and the H910 probably did do it a little better. I just don't know if it's something I'd use that often enough to justify the purchase.
Old 30th July 2016
  #1452
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italo de angelis's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse Skeens View Post
Cheers Italo will give that a shot Btw is the Dual 910 basically doing what you described?
Pretty much. Everything on the H910 is about that *glitch* you can make it happen as I described.
Old 30th July 2016
  #1453
Quote:
Originally Posted by italo de angelis View Post
Pretty much. Everything on the H910 is about that *glitch* you can make it happen as I described.
Cool, and for the LFO speed any suggestion to emulate it, or depends on the patch?
Old 30th July 2016
  #1454
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italo de angelis's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse Skeens View Post
Cool, and for the LFO speed any suggestion to emulate it, or depends on the patch?
Try between 0.5 and 1.0 Hz
Old 30th July 2016
  #1455
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italo de angelis's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by italo de angelis View Post
Try between 0.5 and 1.0 Hz
And if you also modulate the lfo freq (FM) a bit... you'll add more randomness to it...
Old 21st August 2016
  #1456
Gear Head
 
Kuusooka's Avatar
 

I recently bought an H3000 D/SE locally off of craigslist that was just fully serviced by Eventide earlier this year. It sounds fantastic, but there's one problem: the bypass switch doesn't work. I called Eventide to ask why they didn't fix it when the unit was serviced and to see if I could send it back to take care of it, but they said it was done intentionally and therefore they wouldn't touch it.

So, I can hear the magnetic reed switch clicking, but the bypass circuit has been totally, well, bypassed. I opened up the unit and can see some non-standard solder points behind the switch. I've attached a pic - can anyone tell me what I would need to do to undo this modification? I have very limited soldering and electronics experience but I can bring in someone to help once I identify what needs to be done.

In the attached picture you can see the solder bumps on the circuits near the edge near the two wires for the power switch. Hopefully the solution is straight forward - thanks!
Attached Thumbnails
I have joined the cult of Eventide H3000-h3000-2.jpg  
Old 22nd August 2016
  #1457
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SP2016's Avatar
Strange story and strange photograph.
I cannot imagine why Eventide would intentionally bypass anything.
Maybe they did not have a new bypass switch with led anymore ?
(If you would need switches: I can supply these.)
Or something is wrong with the LS244 chip on the front panel and that went out of stock ?
Do all front panel switches and keypad function properly ?
Also strange that Eventide did not explain WHY they 'would not touch it'.

The relay you mention is not a reed relay, but a standard electro-magnetic type.
You hear that relay clicking when you switch the H3000 on, so the relay works.
I understood you do get a processed signal at the output(s) ?

I see nothing strange on the photograph of the back of the front panel.
Maybe some extra explanation would clarify.

Last edited by SP2016; 22nd August 2016 at 08:38 AM..
Old 22nd August 2016
  #1458
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TheBrightSide's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by SP2016 View Post
Strange story and strange photograph.
I cannot imagine why Eventide would intentionally bypass anything.
Maybe they did not have a new bypass switch with led anymore ?
If you would need switches: I can supply these.
Also strange that Eventide did not explain WHY they 'would not touch it'.

The relay you mention is not a reed relay, but a standard electro-magnetic type.
You hear that relay clicking when you switch the H3000 on, so the relay works.
I assume you get a processed signal at the output(s) ?

I see nothing strange on the photograph of the back of the front panel.
Maybe some extra explanation would clarify.
I assumed the previous owner did the mod on the bypass switch, and Eventide left it "as is", as that's how the owner wanted it. (For some strange reason)
Old 22nd August 2016
  #1459
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SP2016's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBrightSide View Post
I assumed the previous owner did the mod on the bypass switch, and Eventide left it "as is", as that's how the owner wanted it. (For some strange reason)
Indeed: Seems a very strange modification to me too......
Old 22nd August 2016
  #1460
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italo de angelis's Avatar
 

I can only think of a typical dumb guitar player (I am a gtr player... not dumb though ) who doesn't know how to use MIDI to bypass the unit... and used a patch set for no effect at all instead. But I may be very wrong here....
Old 22nd August 2016
  #1461
Quote:
Originally Posted by italo de angelis View Post
I can only think of a typical dumb guitar player (I am a gtr player... not dumb though ) who doesn't know how to use MIDI to bypass the unit... and used a patch set for no effect at all instead. But I may be very wrong here....
Maybe the owner thought it was sacrilegious to ever bypass a H3000
Old 22nd August 2016
  #1462
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TheBrightSide's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse Skeens View Post
Maybe the owner thought it was sacrilegious to ever bypass a H3000
That's what I thought.
Bypass is only needed to hear how weak the dry signal is.
Old 23rd August 2016
  #1463
Gear Head
 
Kuusooka's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by italo de angelis View Post
I can only think of a typical dumb guitar player (I am a gtr player... not dumb though ) who doesn't know how to use MIDI to bypass the unit... and used a patch set for no effect at all instead. But I may be very wrong here....
I did indeed buy the unit from a guitar player who said he purchased it for a single preset - I have since forgotten which one! He didn't do the modification though, he said he purchased it from a studio owner in Nashville who told him he circumvented the bypass because "those switches are constantly failing" and he didn't want the H3000 to have any downtime in the studio.

Sounds ridiculous to me! If you go back about 30 pages in this thread, I asked about this same unit and then decided not to purchase it after you told me to avoid it. However, two years later it came up for sale again and I didn't realize it was the exact same one! When I showed up it was still boxed up from Eventide service and had the invoice with it. I should have checked it more carefully, but he said they just gave the unit a complete overhaul so I trusted him.

When I realized it was the same one I tried emailing him about it for additional details but of course he disappeared.

I realize the photo is not very helpful and it doesn't look like any work was done near that switch. For all I know the modification was done elsewhere in the signal chain. I suppose I expected to open the unit up and see one obvious change that didn't belong that I could undo, but it doesn't appear that way. If anyone is curious to see a photo of any other part of the board, let me know!

I called Eventide one time and the person on the phone put me on hold and spoke with the tech without passing along my call. She told me the tech was familiar with that particular unit but Eventide would not do any work related to a mod done by someone else. I sent a followup email for info about the mod so I could learn how to undo it myself, but they never wrote back and probably want me to stop bugging them.

It's annoying to me since I run all my effects in serial through my patchbays. I suppose the best solution is to just leave the unit as is and repatch if I want to hear the unaltered signal since I don't want to risk doing any harm to the unit, but this bothers me since I thought I had purchased a perfect D/SE.

What would all of you do? Just leave it alone and be happy with a D/SE that is otherwise in great shape? Bring it to a local tech? Give Eventide another call?
Old 23rd August 2016
  #1464
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SP2016's Avatar
Check the flat cable coming from the front panel and going to the mother board.
Any pin bent or cut ? No pin missing ?
Otherwise check 'work' around U61 on the mother board (also at the underside of the motherboard).
That is in the direct neighbourhood of that flat cable.
See attachments.
J12 is the flat cable connector. Pin layout on the left of the first schematic.

If you are not comfortable with soldering: PLEASE LEAVE THAT TO A REAL PROFESSIONAL !!!
Attached Thumbnails
I have joined the cult of Eventide H3000-frontpanelconn.jpg   I have joined the cult of Eventide H3000-motherboard.jpg  

Last edited by SP2016; 23rd August 2016 at 09:41 AM.. Reason: correction+addendum
Old 23rd August 2016
  #1465
Gear Head
 
Kuusooka's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by SP2016 View Post
Otherwise check 'work' around U61 on the mother board (also at the underside of the motherboard).
That's it! I hadn't taken the bottom off of the unit before. There is nothing obvious going on with the ribbon cable on the top of the main board or on the front panel board. However, on the bottom though it looks like there is a long wire possibly glued to the bottom of the board. It doesn't look like there is any solder at the end points of the wire in the attached pictures. It's just something like a hard resin all over the bottom of the board along the wire.

Please take a look at the attachments - one shows the whole path of the wire and one is a close up to show the material used. Any thoughts?

Thanks so much for sharing your expertise!
Attached Thumbnails
I have joined the cult of Eventide H3000-eventide-1.jpg   I have joined the cult of Eventide H3000-eventide-3.jpg  
Old 23rd August 2016
  #1466
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SP2016's Avatar
Your photographs do show a wire link.
Both ends are soldered and the wire is glued to the pc board.
However this link may be "normal" as I cannot see the exact location of the link.
So it is very well possible it is a 'factory link' and has nothing to do with the bypass modification.

Further information is needed.
Old 23rd August 2016
  #1467
Gear Head
 
Kuusooka's Avatar
 

What additional information would be helpful? Clearer photographs of the whole underside of the board so you can see where this is exactly? Photos of a separate unit's board to see if this is standard? It seems likely it's related to the modification since it stands out so much from the construction of the rest of the unit.
Old 23rd August 2016
  #1468
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Kuusooka's Avatar
 

Here are a few more pictures. Unfortunately, it looks like there may be more going on than just that one wire.

One picture attached shows the bottom of the entire unit.

The next shows a single resistor that looks to be soldered in to the center of the board, if you look carefully you can see it in the first picture. It is near the upper left of the glare from the light in the overall picture.

The third is a closeup of five wires in the back of the unit near the audio outs that appear to be added in after manufacture as well.

I'm not sure if this is helpful - this is way beyond my level of expertise at this point. If someone can provide an answer as simple as unsoldering a single wire I could do that. If that is not the case, I'm curious to see if people think it's something that could be worked out by a local synth/gear tech or if it's best to just leave it alone and deal with the problem.
Attached Thumbnails
I have joined the cult of Eventide H3000-eventide-6.jpg   I have joined the cult of Eventide H3000-eventide-7.jpg   I have joined the cult of Eventide H3000-eventide-4.jpg  

Last edited by Kuusooka; 23rd August 2016 at 06:30 PM.. Reason: Added additional info.
Old 23rd August 2016
  #1469
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SP2016's Avatar
The wire links on your close up photographs most definitely are not factory made.
Are these wires at the underside of the yellow relay ?
In that case it looks like the "modification" just connect relay contacts so that the processed signal always goes to the outputs, irrespective of how the bypass switch is operated.
I would suggest making a note of the present situation and just remove these four wires.

Can you make a more detailed photograph of the small blue wire bridge ?
Just keep that in place for the time being. I doubt that has to do with the bypass circuitry.
Can you see what is on the other side of the motherboard at the location of that small wire ?
Or make a photograph of that too ?

The resistor may be Eventide's work, as well as the wire link glued to the board.

Have fun !
Old 23rd August 2016
  #1470
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Kuusooka's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by SP2016 View Post
Are these wires at the underside of the yellow relay ?
Yes, the are exactly on the other side of this relay, which is shown in two of the attached pics.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SP2016 View Post
In that case it looks like the "modification" just connect relay contacts so that the processed signal always goes to the outputs, irrespective of how the bypass switch is operated.
I would suggest making a note of the present situation and just remove these four wires.
This is probably a dumb question, but before I bust out the soldering iron would it work for testing purposes if I just cut and sealed off these four wires?

It's been years since I've done an electronics project so I will bring in a friend who is more proficient than me if I need to do any soldering work (I wouldn't forgive myself if I hurt the D/SE!) but if just cutting them to break that connection would work I could give it a try today.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SP2016 View Post
Can you make a more detailed photograph of the small blue wire bridge ?
Just keep that in place for the time being. I doubt that has to do with the bypass circuitry.
Can you see what is on the other side of the motherboard at the location of that small wire ?
Or make a photograph of that too ?
See the attached pics - sorry for the poor quality! That small blue wire bridge looks like it goes to the 4 pin connector on Channel 2 Audio In. (The yellow relay nearby is of course behind the audio outs.)

Thanks again - let me know if breaking the circuit by cutting those wires might work! I won't try anything until I hear back!
Attached Thumbnails
I have joined the cult of Eventide H3000-eventide-8.jpg   I have joined the cult of Eventide H3000-eventide-9.jpg   I have joined the cult of Eventide H3000-eventide-10.jpg  
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