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New Sequential Prophet 5 and 10
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #4651
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Life View Post
cbmd posted it here: New Sequential Prophet 5 and 10
Thanks! I guess between all the flame wars going on here I somehow missed this So assume this is only something needed if one would intend to ship the synth again but the screws should not come loose without Loctite if the synth is just being played and used normally?
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #4652
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javd007 View Post
I just love it , really nails the classic Roland Polys and sounds analog. I jam with it alongside the Prophet 5s and it can hold its own. The Jupiter X and Prophet 5 are perfect pair. Covers 75% of any 80s sound you need minus DX7 and Oberheim sounds .
what is your take on the Jupiter X versus the System 8 ACB Jupiter 8 model?
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #4653
Lives for gear
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Deckdaddy View Post
Do we know when they started using loctite?
Gluing screws isn’t a good solution, especially with the Fatar TP-9 series. These have an annoying proclivity to collect little bits of muck in the keyboard contacts (which can happen to those of us who habitually use dust covers).

The most common symptom of this is a key that starts to play at maximum volume all the time because one of the two sensors under that key is dirty. The only solution in these cases is to take the keyboard out, gently peel off the rubber dome strip where that key is located (the strips are held to the sensor board by little rubber lugs) , and clean all the contacts and the insides of the domes with isopropyl alcohol (not rubbing alcohol, which has oil in it).

This usually simple operation will be difficult (or perhaps impossible) if the screws are glued down, especially given the fact that cyanoacrylate glue has a low viscosity, so it tends to flow into areas that were not necessarily intended by whoever made the design revision.
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #4654
Gear Maniac
 

Using superglue does not sound like the smartest solution to me.
Old 3 weeks ago
  #4655
Gear Addict
 

slightly longer screws?
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #4656
Here for the gear
 
Robert Smedberg's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by drifter7508 View Post
Using superglue does not sound like the smartest solution to me.
Loctite blue is for securing screws and will be able to unscrew with normal hand tools...
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #4657
Quote:
Originally Posted by RonF View Post


She has arrived and she’s glorious! I pulled the caps, no regrets!
Congrats! And another Montage user. Im finding they’re not getting much love amongst “vintage enthusiasts”. Nice to see a good mix of gear.
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #4658
Gear Maniac
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert Smedberg View Post
Loctite blue is for securing screws and will be able to unscrew with normal hand tools...
Ok, I’m fine with that :-)
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #4659
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javd007's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by electro View Post
what is your take on the Jupiter X versus the System 8 ACB Jupiter 8 model?
I can’t say but I have the Sh-01a and 101 model in the X. The 01a is slightly better but it’s close . Sometimes I’m playing the X and I can’t believe it’s digital. One thing Roland nailed is the filter , I mean it sounds friggin analog and the voices are random every time you play it too like a real analog synth.

The Prophet 5 and Jupiter X go so well together I often feel like I don’t neee the other 10 keyboards. But hey z, it’s Gearslutz .

Was playing the Rev 4 a lot today, with the Linndrum Vintage knob at 2 and she sings like it’s 1982.
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #4660
Lives for gear
Mine was just decapitated this morning by my tech. Does sound brighter and I like it more. As others said, you can always dial this back with EQ later if desired or another lowpass filter plug-in.
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #4661
Lives for gear
Quote:
Originally Posted by electro View Post
what is your take on the Jupiter X versus the System 8 ACB Jupiter 8 model?
As a previous owner of the S8 and all Boutique modules and now an X owner (as well as Roland Cloud subscriber and back in the 90s an owner of all the originals) I'm very qualified to give an opinion on this.

The Jupiter X's model of the JP-8 is now quite as good as the ACB version. In most patches you won't hear this difference, but where it's most striking for me is in the detail of PWM (especially noticeable on the classic JP8 patch "Mellow Strings"). The X just isn't the same. As for the Juno stuff it's pretty much on par with the ACBs and the JX sounds as good as I remember my MKS-70 sounding.

As Javd007 said, the SH-101 model on the X is a major letdown compared to the Boutique SH-01A, which in my view is the absolute best option for an SH-101 clone even today. But for me the 101 sound was never my favourite (prefer SH-2) so I'm happy enough with the X version to give some of that flavour.

The thing about the X is that it just all comes together in a way that for me is better than any other option. It's the sum of the parts that make it a killer, not nit-picking every small detail.

That kind of detail is strictly reserved for this thread on the P5 Rev4.
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #4662
Lives for gear
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by javd007 View Post
I can’t say but I have the Sh-01a and 101 model in the X. The 01a is slightly better but it’s close . Sometimes I’m playing the X and I can’t believe it’s digital. One thing Roland nailed is the filter , I mean it sounds friggin analog and the voices are random every time you play it too like a real analog synth.

The Prophet 5 and Jupiter X go so well together I often feel like I don’t neee the other 10 keyboards. But hey z, it’s Gearslutz .

Was playing the Rev 4 a lot today, with the Linndrum Vintage knob at 2 and she sings like it’s 1982.
That Rev 4 P5/P10 looks amazing and I want a desktop version (preferably eurorack form factor)! For SH-101 ITB I turn to the TAL Bassline 101
https://tal-software.com/products/tal-bassline-101
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #4663
Gear Maniac
 

There is a Jupiter X thread you know? Continue there please.
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #4664
Pym
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I just checked the schematic, I think that would be ok

It will probably do about half as much but I haven’t tested it, they are different parts of the circuit but the effect should be similar

Quote:
Originally Posted by lark830 View Post
Hey Chris/Carson! What do you guys think of that? Me removing one capacitor. Do you know what it would do to the sound? I'm super curious
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #4665
Pym
Lives for gear
 

Not really, it will be close but the slope won’t be the same

Quote:
Originally Posted by Smokey510 View Post
@ Pym And with that said is simply rolling off on the filter the solution to basically emulate how it was before (Pre cap)?
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #4666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert Smedberg View Post
Loctite blue is for securing screws and will be able to unscrew with normal hand tools...
Loctite Blue is a different matter entirely, although I’m a bit confused about the need for it to secure a keyboard assembly, because it’s more commonly used on nuts and bolts in things that are prone to a lot of long term vibration such as generators and lawn mower engines. Other manufacturers such as Moog, Nord, and Kurzweil have managed to use the TP-9 in products without resorting to Loctite Blue to stop their screws falling out either in transit or during normal use.
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #4667
Gear Addict
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaish View Post
Nice! Which store?
Well it’s not gear4music in the UK. Mine was supposed to be shipped today and they’ve emailed me to say it’s not coming and they’ve no idea when it’s coming.
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #4668
Gear Addict
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Weedlekin View Post
Loctite Blue is a different matter entirely, although I’m a bit confused about the need for it to secure a keyboard assembly, because it’s more commonly used on nuts and bolts in things that are prone to a lot of long term vibration such as generators and lawn mower engines. Other manufacturers such as Moog, Nord, and Kurzweil have managed to use the TP-9 in products without resorting to Loctite Blue to stop their screws falling out either in transit or during normal use.
Is this a screw into wood? I don’t think loctite is designed for that.
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #4669
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pppch's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Weedlekin View Post
Loctite Blue is a different matter entirely, although I’m a bit confused about the need for it to secure a keyboard assembly, because it’s more commonly used on nuts and bolts in things that are prone to a lot of long term vibration such as generators and lawn mower engines. Other manufacturers such as Moog, Nord, and Kurzweil have managed to use the TP-9 in products without resorting to Loctite Blue to stop their screws falling out either in transit or during normal use.
only works when it's metal on metal, otherwise not. For wood, I would rather recommend a CA gel that doesn't dry too quickly.
at all ... stop vibrating so hard on the bender ..
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #4670
Here for the gear
 
Robert Smedberg's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by UroWho View Post
Is this a screw into wood? I don’t think loctite is designed for that.
Are the location/position of the screws that fall off verified?
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #4671
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pym View Post
Not really, it will be close but the slope won’t be the same
That's it folks, capped Rev4s just shot up in value :p
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #4672
Lives for gear
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by UroWho View Post
Is this a screw into wood? I don’t think loctite is designed for that.
It’s metal to metal. These are not the screws that screw directly to the tp9. These are the screws that attach a plate that the tp9 is attached to, to the main chassis. Blue loctite is exactly what is needed and many manufacturers use blue loctite as standard for metal screws to metal.
Old 3 weeks ago
  #4673
Gear Addict
 

According to my retailer the shipment has been held back at EU level. Is this to reduce the numbers of prophets in the wild with the errant capacitors fitted? Are they going to be disassembled and removed before getting to retailers across the EU? Seems odd the order has suddenly gone back a month. Personally I’d have rather got it now and done it myself! But I can see the reputational and practical issues for manufacturer, distributors and retailers.
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #4674
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RichPT's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vertflyer View Post
It’s metal to metal. These are not the screws that screw directly to the tp9. These are the screws that attach a plate that the tp9 is attached to, to the main chassis. Blue loctite is exactly what is needed and many manufacturers use blue loctite as standard for metal screws to metal.
Are there any pictures of the screws and the parts there are meant to secure?
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #4675
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichPT View Post
Are there any pictures of the screws and the parts there are meant to secure?
I just did the HI CAP yesterday, and there were 3 screws loose(the 3 furthest to the right.) I did not take photos but the keyboard is screwed into the bottom panel by 5 short screws along the top of the keyboard. I could see how these could wiggle loose over time with "rough" handling(or sitting in a UPS truck and for a long ride) I was unable to locate my bottle yesterday so Im going to buy a new bottle here shortly and I will post pictures.
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #4676
Gear Addict
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vertflyer View Post
Blue loctite is exactly what is needed and many manufacturers use blue loctite as standard for metal screws to metal.
I'd say blue loctite is probably fine, but why not a locking washer?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lockring


I did read that the screws are apparently a bit short so that might be a problem but in that case perhaps just replace the screws with slightly longer ones to compensate for the thickness of the locking washer?

I suppose loctite is easier but I wonder which method would be better. And I do wonder why the screws come loose so easily in the first place.
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #4677
Here for the gear
 

Just re-placed my order for a P10 this morning A quick question though; Has anyone that ordered from ZZounds received their P5/P10 yet? I'm curious if they even shipped their first batch or if they have shipped some already and I'm in the second batch.

If they haven't shipped their first few already, there's a possibility that I'm in batch one and might get my P10 before Christmas which would be awesome
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #4678
Lives for gear
Quote:
Originally Posted by TOYZ View Post
I'd say blue loctite is probably fine, but why not a locking washer?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lockring


I did read that the screws are apparently a bit short so that might be a problem but in that case perhaps just replace the screws with slightly longer ones to compensate for the thickness of the locking washer?

I suppose loctite is easier but I wonder which method would be better. And I do wonder why the screws come loose so easily in the first place.
I also think having just slightly longer screws would be better.
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #4679
Gear Maniac
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by UroWho View Post
According to my retailer the shipment has been held back at EU level. Is this to reduce the numbers of prophets in the wild with the errant capacitors fitted? Are they going to be disassembled and removed before getting to retailers across the EU? Seems odd the order has suddenly gone back a month. Personally I’d have rather got it now and done it myself! But I can see the reputational and practical issues for manufacturer, distributors and retailers.
Same with my order. New shipment date 11/11. Was gonna ship today.
Old 3 weeks ago
  #4680
Lives for gear
 
kwaping's Avatar
I haven't been able to keep up with this thread, but has anyone considered adding a switch/button to bypass the two capacitors in question? That would make for a dark-mode/bright-mode switch and it seems easy to do. That is, if you like the current sound but also want the fix. If you don't like the current sound then of course forget it.
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