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new Juno 106 Midi Board, self-installable? (sorry for having too many Juno questions)
Old 13th January 2020
  #1
Gear Nut
new Juno 106 Midi Board, self-installable? (sorry for having too many Juno questions)

Hello,

is it easy to install a new 'midi board' for Juno 106 (HS-60)?
*I've ordered 2nd hand midi board from Japan since my HS-60 has no midi out (literally taken off, I had a close look inside)
I do not have any soldering equipments.

I had a deep search on google and youtube but no luck, could not find any detailed process of it.

Does it involve any technical difficulties..? or just plugging and unplugging...?

Thank you in advance


*extremely strange that 'midi out' has been literally snatched off...
I was gonna use it without midi out function but then, midi board was pretty cheap on ebay so I've just ordered one today.
Old 13th January 2020
  #2
Lives for gear
 
Synth Buddha's Avatar
Sorry, can't help you, but don't be sorry for asking questions like this. These types of threads can actually be super helpful for those of us who own old synths. I say we need more of them, not less.
Old 13th January 2020
  #3
Gear Nut
Quote:
Originally Posted by Synth Buddha View Post
Sorry, can't help you, but don't be sorry for asking questions like this. These types of threads can actually be super helpful for those of us who own old synths. I say we need more of them, not less.
Oh yeah thanks man I learn a lot from gearslutz and because vintage synths in my country is so unpopular and this forum helps me a lot
Old 13th January 2020
  #4
Lives for gear
 
kpatz's Avatar
It should be a straightforward swap, it's just one connector on the midi board or (if the new one has cables, 2 connectors going to the CPU board).

Remove the screws holding the old board in place (check rear panel as well), disconnect the cables, remove board, install new board, reconnect cables, install screws, done.

Standard disclaimers apply... unplug before opening 'er up, ground yourself to avoid static discharge, note where cables go and orientation of connectors, avoid spilling beer inside the synth, etc.
Old 13th January 2020
  #5
Gear Nut
Quote:
Originally Posted by kpatz View Post
It should be a straightforward swap, it's just one connector on the midi board or (if the new one has cables, 2 connectors going to the CPU board).

Remove the screws holding the old board in place (check rear panel as well), disconnect the cables, remove board, install new board, reconnect cables, install screws, done.

Standard disclaimers apply... unplug before opening 'er up, ground yourself to avoid static discharge, note where cables go and orientation of connectors, avoid spilling beer inside the synth, etc.
Thanks! I will try myself once it gets here yeap 2 pin(?) cables I believe, I think I might also have to unscrew panel board

Midi board seems to be connected to the panel board (I will double check this too myself).
Old 13th January 2020
  #6
Lives for gear
 

Apologies don't belong in headlines.

And you shouldn't apologize for using the forum to ask questions. It's what it's here for.

Too much apologizing and self censureship going on in general these days. (Please don't apologize for apologizing)
Old 1 week ago
  #7
Gear Nut
Quote:
Originally Posted by kpatz View Post
It should be a straightforward swap, it's just one connector on the midi board or (if the new one has cables, 2 connectors going to the CPU board).

Remove the screws holding the old board in place (check rear panel as well), disconnect the cables, remove board, install new board, reconnect cables, install screws, done.

Standard disclaimers apply... unplug before opening 'er up, ground yourself to avoid static discharge, note where cables go and orientation of connectors, avoid spilling beer inside the synth, etc.
Hello, Kpatz, my midi board has been arrived and I am trying to sort it out myself, but I got stuck.

I am not so sure how to unplug the ribbon cable(?) or pin cable(?) from the original Midi Board...?

I have 2 questions:
1. Can I just pull it out with force...? Or is it soldered so the board and the cables are stuck...? (It looks like its not pullable, more like soldered...)

The other side 2 small cables, well, they look different, they seem to be pluggable and pullable.

I really do not want to unscrew everything...... like keybeds etc.
But if I have to, I guess I should.



My first thought was,
unscrew broken old midi board out, just unplug the 1 ribbon cable from it,
and replug it into the new board. (*which means I will have 1 extra ribbon cable for midi board left over from the arrival box)

IF it is soldered then of course, I really have to dig in....
Old 1 week ago
  #8
Lives for gear
 
kpatz's Avatar
If the end that is soldered is on the midi board, just unplug the other end and swap the board and cable.

If the end that is soldered is on the other end, unplug from the midi board and swap the board, plugging in the existing cable.

You shouldn't need to unsolder anything unless it's soldered on both ends.
Old 1 week ago
  #9
Gear Nut
Quote:
Originally Posted by kpatz View Post
If the end that is soldered is on the midi board, just unplug the other end and swap the board and cable.

If the end that is soldered is on the other end, unplug from the midi board and swap the board, plugging in the existing cable.

You shouldn't need to unsolder anything unless it's soldered on both ends.
This is where I get confused the most, unlike other cables... Midi board cable (one wide pin cable) on it looks like it is not plugged, but rather soldered.. (*because unlike other cables on like it don't seem to have 2 layers. Shall I just pull it firmly... and have an another try?
Old 1 week ago
  #10
Lives for gear
 
Rob Ocelot's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Method Man View Post
This is where I get confused the most, unlike other cables... Midi board cable (one wide pin cable) on it looks like it is not plugged, but rather soldered.. (*because unlike other cables on like it don't seem to have 2 layers. Shall I just pull it firmly... and have an another try?
No, don't pull on the soldered end of the cable. Unplug the two smaller connectors at the other end of the cable from the board they are plugged into. Your replacement board should have the same two connectors. The connectors have a notch so you can only plug them back in one way.

If your replacement board doesn't have the soldered on cable with two connectors then you are going to have to desolder it from the old board and resolder it to the replacement board.
Old 1 week ago
  #11
Gear Nut
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Ocelot View Post
No, don't pull on the soldered end of the cable. Unplug the two smaller connectors at the other end of the cable from the board they are plugged into. Your replacement board should have the same two connectors. The connectors have a notch so you can only plug them back in one way.

If your replacement board doesn't have the soldered on cable with two connectors then you are going to have to desolder it from the old board and resolder it to the replacement board.
Thanks! I totally get what you mean and I am about to replace it myself.
Old 1 week ago
  #12
Gear Nut
Thanks guys! I've successfully managed to re-assemble a new midi board and it is working great! One thing I've noticed though, every parameters respond well with my Juno editor on mac but HPF seems slopy a little..? it meant to be like that? 4-steppy...?

Also how do you guys manage your own custom patches? directly replace with factory patches you don't like? or any good all-around recommendations?

cheers!
Old 1 week ago
  #13
Lives for gear
 
kpatz's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Method Man View Post
Thanks guys! I've successfully managed to re-assemble a new midi board and it is working great! One thing I've noticed though, every parameters respond well with my Juno editor on mac but HPF seems slopy a little..? it meant to be like that? 4-steppy...?

Also how do you guys manage your own custom patches? directly replace with factory patches you don't like? or any good all-around recommendations?

cheers!
Yay! I knew it wouldn't be too hard. Just use zip ties to secure the cables in place of the original bands/zip ties.

HPF is a 4 step slider on the 60/106 so this is normal.

The Juno is a simple enough synth that it's a snap to create new patches on it. Just overwrite the factory ones as you go along... maybe figure out which factory ones you like the least and overwrite those first. You could use a librarian program if you want to keep more patches than will fit on board.
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