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Korg DW8000: How to disassemble keys?
Old 27th December 2016
  #1
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Korg DW8000: How to disassemble keys?

Hi Guys!

I would disassemble the keys of my DW8000 because over the years have become very noisy and accumulated dirt. I would like to solve this problem of noise, but I need help figuring out how to dismantle them without making a mess. I extracted the mechanics and removed the circuit part of the keys.
I saw that there is' a spring under each key which is attached to the metal casing.

Does anyone have some experience/useful advice on this?

I can't post pics due forum restrictions..
Old 27th December 2016
  #2
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namnibor's Avatar
Here's the actual DW8000 Service Manual and on page 10, although no step-by-step disassembly is implied, it does show how this tank of a synth is put together. Good to have in any case and hope this at least gave you some direction. Oh, and the keys *clack* on the DW8000 very bad even when aftertouch works fine and all is clean. The *clack* is forgivable because of those wonderful filters. I would be more inclined someday to replace entirely the keys with same Fatar T8 that's on my Virus and Evolver.
http://www.pallium.com/bryan/dw/DW-8...ice_Manual.pdf
Old 27th December 2016
  #3
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marino's Avatar
The noisy keyboard is a problem on most aged DW8000s. Mine was easily the most clacky instrument I've ever experienced. But I was lucky: I brought mine to the tech to replace a few switches, and said, "see if you can do something for the noisy keyboard too"... but without much hope. Well, he replaced the whole keybed (presumably, from another unserviceable DW8000 or other compatible Korg instrument), so I now own - more or less - the quieter DW8000 on Earth.
I guess the source instrument had not been played much...
Old 27th December 2016
  #4
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synthRodriguez's Avatar
I'm getting ready to tear down a DW-8000 keyboard this morning to fix the clack, how coincidental!

The loud clack is caused by the old rebound felt (or in this case, more of a poly foam) being matted down hard over the years. It no longer has any "give" left and is almost like there's nothing there at all, hence the clack.

I'll be removing it and replacing it with F1 grade adhesive-backed piano felt.

Also, the rebound felt in the Korg is only 1/16" thick, the thinnest I've ever seen. Even when replaced with new it's bound to be a bit more clacky than other keyboards. Yamaha and Roland units typically use 1/8" felt.

You can't use thicker felt due to the design of the keys unless you wanted to modify all of the rebound catches, ugh.
Old 27th December 2016
  #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by namnibor View Post
Here's the actual DW8000 Service Manual and on page 10, although no step-by-step disassembly is implied, it does show how this tank of a synth is put together. Good to have in any case and hope this at least gave you some direction. Oh, and the keys *clack* on the DW8000 very bad even when aftertouch works fine and all is clean. The *clack* is forgivable because of those wonderful filters. I would be more inclined someday to replace entirely the keys with same Fatar T8 that's on my Virus and Evolver.
http://www.pallium.com/bryan/dw/DW-8...ice_Manual.pdf
Thank you for reply, I have already disassembled several times this synth to make various repairs: replacement of the battery and defective buttons on the panel. I know quite well how it is assembled inside. Instead, it had never happened to me before, disassembly the mechanical part of the keys. There is no reference to this procedure in the service manual.
Old 27th December 2016
  #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottrod View Post
I'm getting ready to tear down a DW-8000 keyboard this morning to fix the clack, how coincidental!

The loud clack is caused by the old rebound felt (or in this case, more of a poly foam) being matted down hard over the years. It no longer has any "give" left and is almost like there's nothing there at all, hence the clack.

I'll be removing it and replacing it with F1 grade adhesive-backed piano felt.

Also, the rebound felt in the Korg is only 1/16" thick, the thinnest I've ever seen. Even when replaced with new it's bound to be a bit more clacky than other keyboards. Yamaha and Roland units typically use 1/8" felt.

You can't use thicker felt due to the design of the keys unless you wanted to modify all of the rebound catches, ugh.
I too had thought of replacing the old felt. I managed to find a self-adhesive felt tape 5/64 "(2mm) thick. Do you think it can go well or may interfere with the keys response?
Old 27th December 2016
  #7
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synthRodriguez's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by klavix View Post
I too had thought of replacing the old felt. I managed to find a self-adhesive felt tape 5/64 "(2mm) thick. Do you think it can go well or may interfere with the keys response?
That should work great if it's dense enough. Is there a grade number from the supplier? (F1, F3, etrc.)

Just finished up mine, clonks are gone!

BTW, the factory felt is 1/4" wide, but the 1/2" wide stuff will fit ok as well if you don't have a good way to strip it in half.

Last edited by synthRodriguez; 27th December 2016 at 11:28 PM..
Old 28th December 2016
  #8
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Signifier's Avatar
 

This is a really nice keyboard.
HAs a classic 'intermediary' sound between analog and digi.
Dave Smith's modern keyboards are heavily influenced by this monster.
Old 28th December 2016
  #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottrod View Post
That should work great if it's dense enough. Is there a grade number from the supplier? (F1, F3, etrc.)

Just finished up mine, clonks are gone!

BTW, the factory felt is 1/4" wide, but the 1/2" wide stuff will fit ok as well if you don't have a good way to strip it in half.
Unfortunately, there is no information on density, but it looks very spongy to the touch. I also got a grease for electrical contacts ..

Great!! I haven't started yet, I don't know exactly how to proceed. Have you just replaced the felt or you also removed the keys?

Do you have any pics to post?
Old 28th December 2016
  #10
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synthRodriguez's Avatar
No photos, sorry. Procedure below.

BTW, that felt sounds like it might not be dense enough. You'll end up with a clacky synth again after a while if it's not dense enough. You can try though...

1. Remove bottom.
2. Clip ty-wraps (8 or so I think) holding wires along the keybed frame spine.
3. Remove the paper key contact covers (5 screws and tape along the bottom).
4. Remove key contact assemblies (20 screws). Leave screws in place.
5. Run a strip of masking tape along the tops of the screws to hold them in place and flip the contact assemblies over and away from the keybed to gain access.
6. Remove connector CN21B from the little aftertouch board attached to the keybed frame.
7. Remove the 2 screws on either side holding the frame to the body (4 total) and the 3 small screws holding the frame to the brackets along the spine.
8. Remove keybed from synth.
9. Remove white keys first. Pull key forward to the stop. Using a small screwdriver, spread the ears on the top of the key. It will pop out.
10. Remove the black keys. No need to spread ears, they will drop out of the slot. The springs are all the same for black and white, so no need to separate.

Refurbishing

1. Flip over all the little black (dark gray) self-lubricating bushings to provide a new surface for the sides of the key.
2. Remove the bracket on the right-hand (non-AT board) side.
3. Undo the little black tape wrapped around the felt ends, but leave in place (don't remove completely).
4. Strip the felt off. Mine came off clean leaving the old adhesive behind. Usually I remove that, but in this case it was so clean and still really sticky so I left it as-is.
5. Install new felt, wrap ends with the black tape.
6. Put it all back together, first the bracket, then black keys, then white, etc. Be sure to clean the slot in the keys where the black bushings ride with alcohol and a swab to remove the old gook. No need to lubricate anything.

The key goes into place first, then install the spring. Make sure the spring is seated properly both fore and aft. It's not hard, but the springs for the black keys sometimes didn't want to seat fully toward the back as they're squeezed a little harder (smaller slot). Just push down on the back until it seats against the stop. It's easy.

Also, when reinstalling the contact assemblies, be careful not to disturb the white standoff bushings holding the the board away from the keybed where the 5 paper cover screws go. They can fall apart. There are two bushings sandwiched together at each location. Make sure they're together properly before you screw the paper covers back in place.

I installed new double-sided tape along the bottom of the covers as well.
Old 28th December 2016
  #11
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toobdude's Avatar
 

aftertouch

Has anyone cleaned the aftertouch sensor ribbon? It seems like if you are going to take the entire keybed apart, it would be a good time to de-oxidize the aftertouch contacts. The Service manual says it is two metal ribbons with an intervening spacer. My DW8000's AT is really stiff now. Wasn't like that years ago.
Old 28th December 2016
  #12
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toobdude's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by namnibor View Post
........ The *clack* is forgivable because of those wonderful filters. I would be more inclined someday to replace entirely the keys with same Fatar T8 that's on my Virus and Evolver.
I agree and I think Korg is totally missing the boat by not releasing a polysynth with the "Korg custom filter # NJM-2069".

Imagine a "King Korg" type synth with all the digital waveforms, modulation, effects and eight 12/24db NJM-2069 analog filters?
Old 31st December 2016
  #13
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There, I finally did it.

Hello Scottrod! With your help I finally removed the keys and as you can see from the pics, they were really dirty!

https://s30.postimg.org/jbw79j201/IM...229_173246.jpg

... so I decided to wash them all
https://s23.postimg.org/ypdphfk97/IM...229_WA0003.jpg

Now I can better observe the original felt tape, so at sight it would appear to have the same density of the new one that I could find. I can also see where the keys touched, the thickness was reduced.

https://s30.postimg.org/nc3clrsgx/IM...229_183724.jpg

https://s28.postimg.org/dnna3bw3h/IM...231_163755.jpg

Even in the aftertouch there 'another strip of felt that looks very worn, advise me to replace it too? The black rubber bushings appear dry and not more elastic.

https://s30.postimg.org/m79age601/IM...229_183042.jpg

https://s30.postimg.org/fi2r0dko1/IM...229_183208.jpg

In your Refurbishing procedure, I didn't understand the first step well:

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottrod View Post
[...]
Refurbishing

1. Flip over all the little black (dark gray) self-lubricating bushings to provide a new surface for the sides of the key.
[...]
.
What are the self-lubricating bushings?
Old 31st December 2016
  #14
Deleted User
Guest
A little OT to the OP, after you get the keys back, don't forget to tune the 6 VCFs!
It is well worth it. I feel a bit bittersweet about getting rid of my DW-6000 now!
Old 1st January 2017
  #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toobdude View Post
Has anyone cleaned the aftertouch sensor ribbon? It seems like if you are going to take the entire keybed apart, it would be a good time to de-oxidize the aftertouch contacts. The Service manual says it is two metal ribbons with an intervening spacer. My DW8000's AT is really stiff now. Wasn't like that years ago.
If I were aware of the correct procedure to follow, I would certainly do so ... but at the moment I'm afraid to destroy it if I put my hands. I trust in someone more expert who can give me some hints..
Old 19th July 2017
  #16
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Dewdman42's Avatar
 

where did you guys find the felt that is 1/16 inch thick and sufficiently dense, that is working well for you?
Old 20th July 2017
  #17
Deleted User
Guest
I loved the NJM2069 in my DW6000, had to sell it, as the output was too low.


Quote:
Originally Posted by toobdude View Post
I agree and I think Korg is totally missing the boat by not releasing a polysynth with the "Korg custom filter # NJM-2069".

Imagine a "King Korg" type synth with all the digital waveforms, modulation, effects and eight 12/24db NJM-2069 analog filters?
Old 31st October 2018
  #18
Gear Addict
 

reviving the thread as I'm looking to fix the clacky keys on my DW8000 soon. I also found this article where a guy used a shoelace and appears to not have required disassembling the keyboard. Thoughts? Korg DW8000 shoelace key action mod - Album on Imgur
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