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Allen And Heath system 8 MK II RECAP Project
Old 21st March 2011 | Show parent
  #61
Gear Head
 
oscillat0r's Avatar
 
🎧 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Convicted View Post
If you replace the buss barr with a wire and then into a molex connector( the connector will not have the same spread as the channel).
Right, I was going to see if I could find a ribbon connector for the board in which some of the pins lined up with 3-4 channels of buss wire and just clip any pins in between the active connections. Off-the-shelf ribbon cable is pretty cheap so it wouldn't matter that i was using only a fraction of the connections.
Old 27th March 2011 | Show parent
  #62
Gear Addict
 
🎧 10 years
LEDs

Anyone know how I could replace the vu bulbs on my system 8 with LEDs. I tired of replacing bulbs I think the LEDs would be a permanent fix maybe.
Old 4th September 2011
  #63
Lives for gear
 
🎧 10 years
Thanks so much for the thread.

Im looking to buy a system 8 and im sure this thread will be a god send.
Old 4th September 2011 | Show parent
  #64
Gear Maniac
 
neil.johnson's Avatar
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by thrustman View Post
Anyone know how I could replace the vu bulbs on my system 8 with LEDs. I tired of replacing bulbs I think the LEDs would be a permanent fix maybe.
Its also something on my list of things to modify in mine. Probably looking at a small PCB with a number of orange or yellow surface mount LEDs and some sort of current limit.
Old 18th October 2011 | Show parent
  #65
Gear Addict
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Convicted View Post

P910-ND 10uf/16v KG Radial Cap - I couldnt find the FC or FM on this one, but its a panasonic KG series
There is a suitable FC series cap with a 25V rating Digi-Key - P11212-ND (Manufacturer - EEA-FC1E100)
Old 18th October 2011 | Show parent
  #66
Gear Addict
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Convicted View Post

From Mouser Catalog:

1500pf / 100v Wima Cap 505-FKS31500/100/10P
3300pf / 100v Wima Cap (3N3) 505-FKS23300/100/10
330pf / 100v Wima Cap 505-FKP2330/100/5
220pf / 100v Wima Cap 505-FKP2220/100/10
.0039uf / 100v Nichicon Cap 647-QYX2A392KTP (This One Substitutes .04/100v cap)
Did the channels with the WIMA caps make a difference?
Old 4th April 2012 | Show parent
  #67
Lives for gear
 
mutetourettes's Avatar
 
🎧 5 years
considering joining the system-8 party myself nd am trying to familiarise myself with it all... i notice that your board appeared to have no eq-cut switch next to the gain knob... doesn't that make it a mk1 ? did it have 90mm or 100mm faders?
Old 5th April 2012 | Show parent
  #68
Gear Maniac
 
🎧 15 years
Allen & Heath actually have an official LED modification kit for the GL and ML series mixer VU meters - consisting of a small PCB on which a pair of yellow 'tombstone' shaped LED's are mounted together with a dropper resistor.

It will probably be suitable for most of the VU meter movements found on popular mixers.

Contact A&H directly or your nearest service centre for more information.

I have modified a few mixer VU meters - and depending on the type and how they are mounted, it is possible to illuminate them very well from the edge, or even the rear - which has the advantage that you don't need to open the meter and risk damage to the delicate movement.......

Modern LED's are available in a variety of styles - and incredibly bright types are easily available now. Many might agree though - that the use of blue LED's ought to be against the law!
Old 5th April 2012 | Show parent
  #69
Gear Guru
Yellow LED's look bad. I use either pure white (with a slight bluish tint, but modern looking) or special incandesent colored white LED's that look like bulbs.

LED Lights, Bulbs & Accessories - SUPER BRIGHT LEDS

have them. I sand them to difuse the light, they look great.
Old 3rd July 2013
  #70
Gear Head
 
🎧 10 years
Is it just obvious once you get in there? When you say 'cut the buss lines' that sounds easy, but how are you reattaching them when you're done with the recapping?

I have a System 8 1616 which is in dire need of recapping. My master monitor is quieter on the left than on the right now, and there is some scratchiness in some pots which may clear up. Also, the main left VU meter doesn't work until the board is good and warmed up with lots of hot signals for an hour or two.

After seeing you leaking PSU cap, I'm gonna check that as well.

Thank you for posting the pics and the great thread. What are all of the tools you need to do this job, other than soldering iron, desoldering iron, and presumably a wire cutter for the buss lines? (yikes)

I was planning on doing that this month, but I've never done a project like this before.

The A&H site is down at the moment, but I'm going to take a look at the schematic as soon as I can.
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