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Which fluffy wool is good behind straddled corner traps? Headphone Amps
Old 29th December 2010
  #1
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Which fluffy wool behind straddled corner traps? OR Superchunks + straddled traps?

Hi,

I'd like to pick up some fluffy insulation to place in round 'bales' behind my 4" (floor to ceiling) straddle corner traps - if you have any suggestions on which fluffy stuff to get out of these three, i'd appreciate that:

200mm Loft Roll Insulation - Loft Roll Insulation - Insulation -Building Materials - Wickes
Loft Roll Insulation - Loft Roll Insulation - Insulation -Building Materials - Wickes
Loft Roll Insulation - Loft Roll Insulation - Insulation -Building Materials - Wickes

Are any of these are fine for stuffing behind my straddled corner traps for extra low end efficiency? I would have to tie them up in smaller bundles.

Also, should i wrap them in anything, or leave them exposed?

How much better off would i be if i bought more RS100/RW5 and superchunked behind the traps (24" width not 36") instead of the fluffy insulation? I would need to use five and a half, 100mm thick, RS100/RW5 units per corner.

Many thanks

Eddie
Old 31st December 2010
  #2
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Bump - can anyone tell me if superchunking (24") behind my 4" panels would be better, or would fluffy insulation (such as the stuff i linked to) behind the 4" panels be better?

The 4" panels are floor to ceiling.

Thanks. If it's the fluffy stuff, i can get it tomorrow. It'll cost £60 from Wickes (4 bags).
Old 31st December 2010
  #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Beatsmith View Post
Bump - can anyone tell me if superchunking (24") behind my 4" panels would be better, or would fluffy insulation (such as the stuff i linked to) behind the 4" panels be better?
The fluffy is better.

Andre
Old 31st December 2010
  #4
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Thank you Avare. I'm going to and pick some up now.

Eddie
Old 31st December 2010
  #5
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if the rolls from the store are compact enough (say < 400mm) then you can probably use them as is - plastic and all. if larger, then re-pack them (the magic is the increased density due to the packing...) to the size needed - tie with twine and put into plastic bags?
Old 1st January 2011
  #6
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Which fluffy wool is good behind straddled corner traps?

That's exactly what I plan to do!

Thanks, and happy new year!

Cheers

Eddie

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Old 4th January 2011
  #7
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Wickes currently have a buy one get TWO free offer. So i'm going to get 6 packets (i could only fit 3 bags in the car), fill the corners, then find other places i can cram the stuff.

I think i'm going to build a stand 'column' for my monitor, a bit like the GIK one (sorry glenn!), but thicker and full of the fluffy stuff. Standing cuboid bass trap!
Old 17th January 2011
  #8
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Eddie -- I hope you don't ind of I piggy back on your thread -- In the sense of not starting new threads without searching first. How has it gone for you?

I'm building a corner trap. We already did a quick and dirty one for one corner. This is the opposing front corner. We'll build a corner frame and cover it with felt. I was going to STUFF IT with rockwool or something similar. But I don't know what I'm doing. I am not going to do a superchuck, or whatever it's called. It seems to be too expensive and too much effort to cut all those triangular 703 pieces. Although I could easily buy and use more OC 703 and could perhaps justify the expense. I was thinking FLUFFY too.

So what does it seem like? Would this work and still be effective?
Old 17th January 2011
  #9
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Glenn Kuras's Avatar
If you're stuffing the whole corner you could buy the fluffy fiberglass in rolls, stack it floor to ceiling and build a false wall in front of that. For panels make them 4" thick and make sure the back is open to let sound pass through it.
Here is some links for help you further understand acoustics.
GIK Acoustics presents Acoustics Primer: Some Basics on Acoustics.
How Bass Traps Work. GIK Acoustics Articles and Newsletters.

The following has a layout
GIK Acoustics: Room Setup
Old 17th January 2011
  #10
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I am also thinking of using rolls of fluffy loft insulation in their packs as corner traps.

According to the Chris Whealy Porous Absorber Calculator these should actually perform better than super chunks made of RW3 or similar. I think Avare has said that this form of insulation has a flow resistivity of approximately 5000 Rayls (compared to around 16,500 for Rockwool RW3) so as a thick corner trap it works very well.

Of course they are also much easier to construct (I only plan on adding a fabric covered panel to cover them). I'm not sure that there is any advantage to adding a panel of RW3 or similar for the face?
Old 17th January 2011
  #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by explorer View Post
I am also thinking of using rolls of fluffy loft insulation in their packs as corner traps.

According to the Chris Whealy Porous Absorber Calculator these should actually perform better than super chunks made of RW3 or similar. I think Avare has said that this form of insulation has a flow resistivity of approximately 5000 Rayls (compared to around 16,500 for Rockwool RW3) so as a thick corner trap it works very well.

Of course they are also much easier to construct (I only plan on adding a fabric covered panel to cover them). I'm not sure that there is any advantage to adding a panel of RW3 or similar for the face?
+1. I could do a +1 on each point, but one overall gets the message across.

Andre
Old 17th January 2011
  #12
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It seems crazy to go to all the effort of Super Chunks when compared to this design (which should perform better, cost less and take less effort!). Glad I did a bit more research before my studio build! (I say this without actually testing the results myself, but the science seems good)
Old 17th January 2011
  #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by explorer View Post
I am also thinking of using rolls of fluffy loft insulation in their packs as corner traps.
The rolls I've seen are packed pretty tightly in the plastic. Won't this affect absorption ?
There isn't much point in talking about airflow resistivity if there isn't any airflow.

I can see it working as a membrane absorber though, with unknown properties.
Old 17th January 2011
  #14
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Perhaps I will try it in a frame also and see what works best...
Old 18th January 2011
  #15
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Ha ha! I posted this question in an entirely wrong thread and waited all day to get a response!

-- Will any fluffy attic insulation do? Or should I look for a rockwool type? I know Rockwool is a brand.

And it's going into a corner with felt fabric stretched over. So a triangle would of course be the perfect shape. I'm a little concerned that stuffing fluffy insulation won't hold the shape well. I don't want it to look lumpy! LOL.
Old 18th January 2011
  #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by henryrobinett View Post
Will any fluffy attic insulation do?
Yes, any dream will do. Oops, this is not Joseph...

Yes, fluffy attic insualtion is fine.

Andre
Old 30th January 2011
  #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by explorer View Post
I'm not sure that there is any advantage to adding a panel of RW3 or similar for the face?
Any takers?
Old 30th January 2011
  #18
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Hey Beatsmith. What kind of material is this Loft Roll Insulation that you posted? Is this some type of minearl wool?

I've been searching for "fluffy" (as they call it here in the forums) in austria. The only thing that i found which seemed useful was rolled up glasswool. This is essentially the same as the glasswool panels just in roles. The problem was that the roles are actually more expensive and they are huge. Im still trying to find some "fluffy" that is cheaper, with little success. Any ideas?
Old 30th January 2011
  #19
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Hi guys,

The fluffy stuff is just attic/loft insulation. It's usually pretty cheap, in the UK there is a place called Wickes, who have a buy one get two free promotion, so it was relatively cheap to get the extra insulation behind my corner panels.

Cheers
Old 30th January 2011
  #20
SAC
Registered User
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by explorer View Post
I'm not sure that there is any advantage to adding a panel of RW3 or similar for the face?
No.

First, there is no advantage to mixing acoustical impedances, and perhaps more significantly, there is little reason to add the relatively significant addition expense when the 'only' practical advantage is to contain the material.

Simply apply plastic orchard bird netting or chicken wire (etc) to trim sticks inside/behind the cosmetic fabric covered face frame. As there will be a small, say 3/4", gap, it will not press against the cloth and thus no imprinting will occur. If this is done along with horizontal screen placed every few feet to segment the larger chamber, you will minimize the total vertical mass that will tend to compress over time, provide additional support, and make it easy to fill and top off each segment with fiber fill. And the various sections of the netting can be opened at the top of each section to fill the absorbent material and later adjusted for any settling.
Old 31st January 2011
  #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulP View Post
The rolls I've seen are packed pretty tightly in the plastic. Won't this affect absorption ?
There isn't much point in talking about airflow resistivity if there isn't any airflow.

I can see it working as a membrane absorber though, with unknown properties.
I too was worried about the fact that they're relatively tightly rolled in their plastic packets, and am unsure of the effect this has. I was going to unpack them, tie them less loosely with twine, and then place them behind the straddled panels, so that the corner panels sat flush against the walls.

But in the end, i I just bunged em behind my panel traps and hoped for the best - and even though this means my 4" straddling panels aren't touching the walls, i don't think it looks too bad. I put them there in the packets because a) i've read that they work really great just like that b) the plastic adds greater bass performance c) much less hassle and i put 'em there 'just to see' and didn't bother moving them.

There was an improvement which i measured and documented in my thread in the Studio building / acoustics forum. It didn't work miracles but it took my large 64hz peak from 'ridiculous and unlistenable' (with just the 4" straddled panels in the corners, back wall treatment, and side RFZ panels) to 'pretty bad'
Old 31st January 2011
  #22
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vgg
Old 31st January 2011
  #23
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I can only imagine the flow resistivity of fluffy pink in the rolls must be like a million or something...can't be that great for absorption.
Old 31st January 2011
  #24
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Which fluffy wool is good behind straddled corner traps?

In a thick bass trap lower density insulation performs better. You could probably get better performance by unpacking the rolls and covering them with fabric.
Old 31st January 2011
  #25
SAC
Registered User
 

And why, in the name of spreading the joy around, should some folks be spared the joys of dealing with loose fill fiberglass??? heh
Old 31st January 2011
  #26
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defenestration's Avatar
 

couldn't you puncture the sealed plastic packaging (membrane) of a fiberglass roll in various locations thus largely negating the effect of the membrane?

unfortunately I am not able to test this any time soon
Old 4th February 2011
  #27
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Sure, but then you lose the extra bass absorption you're getting from the membrane
Old 5th February 2011
  #28
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does anyone have any photos of their ultra thick pink fluffy traps?
Old 5th February 2011
  #29
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sure, but i'm not sure if this is what you meant...

the cylindrical trap on the right side of mix position (not pictured) is covered loosely with cream fabric because you can see the bin liner/packaging - with the one i took a picture of, you can't really see all the ugliness if you're in the room, in any normal seating/standing positions

- https://www.gearslutz.com/board/attac...ce-photo-5.jpg
- https://www.gearslutz.com/board/attac...-photo-2-1.jpg
- https://www.gearslutz.com/board/attac...e-corners1.jpg
- https://www.gearslutz.com/board/attac...e-corners2.jpg
Old 5th February 2011
  #30
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vggg
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