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My Bass trap build Studio Monitors
Old 7th December 2009
  #61
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takman's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Anselmo View Post
Excellent craftsmanship!! thumbsup
thanks! thumbsupthumbsupthumbsup
Old 7th December 2009
  #62
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takman's Avatar
 

made a vid giving a brief "tour" of my studio since it was hard to tell what was going on with just pics...

YouTube - My new music studio
Old 7th December 2009
  #63
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PaulP's Avatar
 

Great video, takman. Nice room you've got there to work in. I really like
the lights ! gotta put those in my cloud as well.

Oh, and thanks for not showing us the scene outside your house. I don't
think I could have taken it. It was snowing pretty hard around here a few
hours ago.

Paul P
Old 8th December 2009
  #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by takman View Post
Depends on the type of absorber...these are bass traps...they do act like broadband absorbers to a degree...but their main function is to trap bass ....Low Freqencies ( bass collects in corners)...So its not really technically bass trap unless its mounted across a corner. Although other type of absorbers that are mounted to flat walls can absorb some bass....
How did those relatively narrow-faced corner basstraps work for you? I'm facing the same situation....don't really have the space to do a full 24" face. Are the slim ones effective?

Really nice work on all your pieces, by the way.
Old 8th December 2009
  #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor View Post
How did those relatively narrow-faced corner basstraps work for you? I'm facing the same situation....don't really have the space to do a full 24" face. Are the slim ones effective?

Really nice work on all your pieces, by the way.

i think they are working well. and i think making it an open frame then installing with a gap was better than just filling the corner..at least in my case.

i havent done any room testing yet...i am going to soon though...

i've been playing a lot of trance music that has really deep basslines...and a lot of low frequency's, and the bass is crisp, clean, punchy etc....no muddy or boomy sound in the room at all...even at high volumes..

im really suprised at how well the room came out on the first try....couldnt be happier.thumbsup
Old 8th December 2009
  #66
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Glenn Kuras's Avatar
Quote:
and a lot of low frequency's, and the bass is crisp, clean, punchy etc....no muddy or boomy sound in the room at all...even at high volumes..
no need to test that is what you should be getting. GREAT JOB!!thumbsup
Old 12th December 2009
  #67
Gear Nut
 

Hey, do you happen to have any pictures to share on your desk build? Thanks!
Old 12th December 2009
  #68
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takman's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Millo 3.1 View Post
Hey, do you happen to have any pictures to share on your desk build? Thanks!
no but it was fairly simple...

i drew up a sketchup of my desk...i had to figure out the height of the TV..width of the desk to accomodate the speaker stands and the height of the desk and to make it comfortable to work at....

i went to the sawmill/lumberyard, told them what laminated particle board color i wanted, gave them the dimensions....

took the pieces home, used L brackets and put it together. then i drilled two holes in the top for all the wiring...and i used two plastic pieces i found at the dump to make it look nice...

Also, made a 1/2" gap between the back piece and the two side pieces to allow the wiring to pass through.

Getting everything level/even/flush was the hardest part.
Old 13th December 2009
  #69
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sorry...i cant seem to let this thread die haha

made a design on my back wall out of boredom...and i though the room needed something to make it more interesting





i'm also contemplating dragging up my drum set from the untreated bat cave ( my garage) into my studio..I want all my music equipment in one room....

do you think the drumset will create unwanted resonances while playing/creating music? Besides the snare wires..which i can just release....

just wanted some opinions, cause its gonna be pain to bring the drum set into my studio....


thanks!
Old 14th December 2009
  #70
Gear Nut
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by takman View Post
no but it was fairly simple...

i drew up a sketchup of my desk...i had to figure out the height of the TV..width of the desk to accomodate the speaker stands and the height of the desk and to make it comfortable to work at....

i went to the sawmill/lumberyard, told them what laminated particle board color i wanted, gave them the dimensions....

took the pieces home, used L brackets and put it together. then i drilled two holes in the top for all the wiring...and i used two plastic pieces i found at the dump to make it look nice...

Also, made a 1/2" gap between the back piece and the two side pieces to allow the wiring to pass through.

Getting everything level/even/flush was the hardest part.
Excellent, thanks for your response. I think eventually I will have to see I have that lumberyard-cutting availability and build one myself.
Old 3rd January 2010
  #71
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hirocaster's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by takman View Post

Then i cut the holes in templates with a hole saw. If you are going to do this with MDF, you have to have a drill with low RPMS and a lot of torque. MDf doesnt like anything high speed, drills, router etc.....it creates a lot of smoke ( which i am sure is not good for you) and it burns as well. Luckily i had the perfect drill. Also, need to do it in an area with a lot of air circulation.


These traps looks so good! I need to buy I drill to start, in near future, build my own traps, do you mind to tell the model or specs of your drill? I saw a Skill branded drill, which is very common brand here in Brasil, did you use that or another drill (I saw a orange drill too)?

This MDF is 15mm thick or 18?

Thanks for your post!
Old 3rd January 2010
  #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hirocaster View Post
These traps looks so good! I need to buy I drill to start, in near future, build my own traps, do you mind to tell the model or specs of your drill? I saw a Skill branded drill, which is very common brand here in Brasil, did you use that or another drill (I saw a orange drill too)?
If you know someone with a drill press (drill on a column with a table) cutting such holes would be much easier and quicker.

Paul P
Old 3rd January 2010
  #73
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takman's Avatar
 

Yep, Paul is right.......draw your design and take it to someone to cut. For my friends bass traps we are building right now, thats what we did...will save a lot of time....

Hiro, that skil drill was a piece of junk, It died not too long after starting.....

luckily i had the orange drill, which is like over 20 years old, but it is a good quality. It had a lot of torque which is good, but it also ran at 500 RPMS, a lot more than your standard battery powered drill. So it caused the MDF to smoke and burn a lot. Ideally you would want a drill with a lot of torque and low RPMS.

The MDF is 1.6 cm ( 16mm) thick
Old 10th January 2010
  #74
Here for the gear
 

first off wow!! those look killer!


"Then i cut the holes in templates with a hole saw. If you are going to do this with MDF, you have to have a drill with low RPMS and a lot of torque. MDf doesnt like anything high speed, drills, router etc.....it creates a lot of smoke ( which i am sure is not good for you) and it burns as well."

as a plumbing professional, i drill holes on a 40 hour a week basis. and i can give you a little trick. When using a hole saw remember to frequently clear out the hole saw. if the teeth of the hole saw are gummed up with saw dust the wood on wood friction will literally light on fire, lol. well not literally, you would have to really work on it to get it that hot. but all you have to do is as you are drilling pull it out all but the pilot bit, then get back in there and keep drilling. This also saves your bits. They aren't cheap. but i agree with you, the black holes look sweet with the red fabric. so next time don't listen to me, or i quess you could paint it...... ha
Old 10th January 2010
  #75
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takman's Avatar
 

the hole saw teeth did get gummed up...but i had to drill 260 holes...so cleaning the teeth a few times every hole wasnt practical....

I built bass traps for my friend identical to mine...we took it to someone to drill the holes this time....and he did a horrible job...

when i did mine...yea the holes came out black..but at least they were straight, even, and had a smooth finish...

MDF is a pain when it comes to using a hole saw...even if you have good tools......
Old 24th November 2010
  #76
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takman's Avatar
 

doing some improvements to the studio, thought i would stick some pics here..

built a wall and a door to the entrance of the studio, to eliminate the hallway that leads to the room.




rockwool in..




just finished covering the rockwool with fabric. Tomorrow i will add trim around the edges to make it look pretty. The door will also have rockwool, and window to look through.

Old 25th November 2010
  #77
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lectric's Avatar
 

Nice work¡¡¡ What plastic do you use in bass traps for restoring the hi frecuencys???
Old 25th November 2010
  #78
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takman's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by lectric View Post
Nice work¡¡¡ What plastic do you use in bass traps for restoring the hi frecuencys???
none.

Its called tile floors and hard stucco walls.
Old 25th December 2010
  #79
Gear Maniac
 

What density did you used ?
Old 3rd January 2011
  #80
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takman's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pale1 View Post
What density did you used ?
50kg
Old 1st February 2011
  #81
Gear Maniac
 

Nice work!
Old 4th February 2011
  #82
Gear Maniac
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by takman View Post

Hi takman !

I'm wondering how you fixed the fabric on this design to have the right tension on it but make so we don't see the staples ???
Old 13th February 2011
  #83
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takman's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by daal View Post
Hi takman !

I'm wondering how you fixed the fabric on this design to have the right tension on it but make so we don't see the staples ???

I laid them on the ground on top of the fabric, stapled one side to the back, stretched it around, and stapled it on the back again.
Old 14th February 2011
  #84
Gear Maniac
 

Thanks man I think I will use that design for larger corner absorbers of mine !
Old 15th February 2011
  #85
Gear Maniac
 

I got another question : The wood you use for the corners should have a right angle (90°) on on corner, and a thinner angle for the others. For those last, did you use a right angle stick anyway ? Or did you manage to find wood with thinner angles ?
Old 19th February 2011
  #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daal View Post
I got another question : The wood you use for the corners should have a right angle (90°) on on corner, and a thinner angle for the others. For those last, did you use a right angle stick anyway ? Or did you manage to find wood with thinner angles ?
all the sticks/pieces are 90 degree angles.

The two pieces that make up the front of the bass trap ( largest side of the triangle) do not contour to the angles of the rockwool, because the triangle tips are like 45 degrees or something. i used 90 degree pieces on two corners of rockwool that had 45 degrees.

So the sticks flare out a bit, kind of creating a triangle with flat tips rather than pointed. But it didnt matter because once you put the fabric over it and put it in the corner, you dont even see it. Even with being able to see it, it looked fine anyways.

The tip of the triangle...that faces into the corner is 90 degrees, and the stick fits perfectly with the rockwool.

hope that makes sense.
Old 19th February 2011
  #87
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takman's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by daal View Post
Thanks man I think I will use that design for larger corner absorbers of mine !
really, i went with this design because i had a corner that i needed to be able to remove the corner trap sometimes.

Thats what nice about this design, they arent built into the wall, so you can remove them if you need to.
Old 21st February 2011
  #88
Gear Maniac
 

Yes that's my need too
Old 21st February 2011
  #89
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PaulP's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by takman View Post
really, i went with this design because i had a corner that i needed to be able to remove the corner trap sometimes.

Thats what nice about this design, they arent built into the wall, so you can remove them if you need to.
You should make them a lot bigger than takman did. The better ones are 34" (86cm) wide at the front.

It might be more practical to build them in shorter sections, then stack them one on top of the other. And when installed, leave a small airspace behind them to prevent moisture problems.
Old 22nd February 2011
  #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulP View Post
You should make them a lot bigger than takman did. The better ones are 34" (86cm) wide at the front.

It might be more practical to build them in shorter sections, then stack them one on top of the other. And when installed, leave a small airspace behind them to prevent moisture problems.

i agree....if possible make them bigger. my situation called for smaller size, and being able to remove them.

although i must say, for their small size they work really well.
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