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Stack 4x4 Panel Bass Traps Safely
Old 30th June 2020
  #1
Here for the gear
 

Stack 4x4 Panel Bass Traps Safely

Hi All,

Long time lurker, first time poster. Due to COVID, most post studios in LA are closed and more of us are being asked if we can work from home. I need to convert a spare bedroom/office to a usable work space (5.1 surround).

Because of many issues that I don't want to get into here, I cannot hang panels from the walls. As a result, my plan is to build 4x4 (6-inch) panels and "stack" them for 4x8 feet of coverage. My question is, what is the best and safest way to securely stack the panels and prevent them from tipping over? For reference, the floor in the room is laminate wood so no carpet.

I was thinking of using Quake Hold putty so secure the bottom panel to the floor. My concern is the top panel. Would industrial strength velcro be strong/secure enough to attach the top panel to the bottom? Or do I need to physically attach the top panel to the bottom (mending bracket, furring strips, etc)?

Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks!
Old 3rd July 2020
  #2
Home Depot has all sorts of brackets. You could screw L brackets to the front on the bottom and then some long flat ones for the back.

I treated a wall 8' x 8' without hanging wood panels.

I made 4 columns, two rows high of R-38. The lower row stood on it's own and I used binder clips for the top row and just hung the raw batts. I used 8 nails total, but there are definitely ways it could be done without nails.

Then you stretch a piece of fabric in front so that you have a fabric wall.

I used 24x48x12 batts. The 16x48x12 are lighter and work better with the binder clip approach.


I get a 1x6 board and press it against the ceiling with some auto-poles, sometimes called a third hand or self-tensioning rod. You could use that to pin the fabric against the ceiling and it would hang and create your wall and also secure eye hooks to hang the batts.

Make a pocket in the fabric that will hold a pole along the bottom to keep it pulled down to the floor, or use a second 1x6 on the floor too.


You can hang the top row of batts directly to the hooks and you can use multi-strand wire, like picture frames, that's 4 feet long to help suspend the lower row, which will be pretty close to standing on its own anyway.

If a foot is too much depth to give up, I'd use R30 and compress it a little. A small room really needs deep absorption.
Old 4th July 2020
  #3
Here for the gear
 

Hi Mike,

Thanks for the reply and info! You've given me a lot to think about.

These panels will only be 6" deep so 6" of Thermafiber SAFB or similar. I'll probably do the bracket thing to attach the top panel to the one on the floor.

I was actually planning on using R38 for the front and back walls. I just didn't know how to stabilize the frame without attaching it to the existing wall. I was also planning on using a tension rod to hang the fabric, but using one to hang the batts never occurred to me. If I use Kraft R38, I can clamp the clips onto the Kraft backing and I can also staple the bottom batt to the top. Brilliant!

Thanks for the idea!
Old 4th July 2020
  #4
Quote:
Originally Posted by WFH_Guy View Post
Hi Mike,

Thanks for the reply and info! You've given me a lot to think about.

These panels will only be 6" deep so 6" of Thermafiber SAFB or similar. I'll probably do the bracket thing to attach the top panel to the one on the floor.

I was actually planning on using R38 for the front and back walls. I just didn't know how to stabilize the frame without attaching it to the existing wall. I was also planning on using a tension rod to hang the fabric, but using one to hang the batts never occurred to me. If I use Kraft R38, I can clamp the clips onto the Kraft backing and I can also staple the bottom batt to the top. Brilliant!

Thanks for the idea!
The paper backing and clips don't hold a ton of weight, so if you go that direction, I think you'll find the 16 inch width far easier to manage than the 24 inch with. I had success with just 2 binder clips on the 24 inch width, but three clips was better and even one clip on the 16 was comparable.

You could also clip the sides at the joint of the top and bottom batts.

With just a little support from the top, the bottom batt pretty much stands on its own. I think running one piece of picture frame wire from the bottom batt to whatever you have the top batts hung from should be even safer.

There's another thread discussing the idea that anything thinner than 8 inches isn't broadband absorption. just mids and highs, maybe low mids.

I agree with that and having gone through the process in a a small room of starting with a couple of 4 inch deep panels and then systematically adding 12 inch deep batts until every coverable inch was covered, it's clear to me that the thiner than 8 inch guideline is a good one.

I can't see any reason to go thinner than 12 inches unless you have very little space, but I'd also consider the small size an argument for why you need at least a 12 inch depth.
Old 4th July 2020
  #5
If you’re getting or have tension rods, my recommendation for temporary treatment would be as follows.

Empty your room and wear a mask.

Buy unfaced R30 in 15” rolls.

Cut them to twice the height of your ceiling

Put a tension rod at the midpoint of the R30 that you cut. Fold them in half over the bar
Lift the tension rod into place at the front of the room. Leave a gap behind them. They will end up being compressed at the top, but should be very effective elsewhere.

Get a cheap spandex Projector screen on Amazon.

zip tie or bungee the projector screen to a second tension rod. Secure with gaff tape.

Install second tension rod in front of insulation flush with ceiling.

Bungee or zip tie bottom of projector screen to weighted rod (1.5” PVC should be enough). Secure with tape.

You could use command strips to stretch the sides.

Vacuum.

Your front and rear wall can be treated this way.

To treat an 8’ high wall with framed traps you could build them a little oversized for your ceiling height.

Use nonslip padding to brace the bottom trap at an angle at your wall/floor boundary. Place the second trap on top of the first, friction fit between top of floor trap and ceiling.

If you don’t care how it looks you could use some Lighting T Bars and lawn fabric instead of tension rods. Use some conduit or PVC with zipties to extend the T Bar to the width of the room.

Another way to do this, is to buy cardboard boxes and lawn fabric. Leave one end of the boxes open.

Stack the insulation so that it does not compress in the boxes. Staple the lawn fabric over the open end of the boxes. Stack them to fill the wall.
Attached Thumbnails
Stack 4x4 Panel Bass Traps Safely-ff9d3407-cc6a-4095-a0f3-a8cca4f1c756.jpg   Stack 4x4 Panel Bass Traps Safely-2575802e-39b7-42e7-9694-a172417a69f8.jpg  

Last edited by Grovestand; 4th July 2020 at 05:17 PM..
Old 4th July 2020
  #6
That seems like a great way to do it.

My idea with the tension rods is a little different in that I'd install them vertically.

Have you tested spandex to see what effect it has sonically?

White spandex is the only fabric I've found in an eight foot width, but I have no idea how acoustically transparent it is.
Old 4th July 2020
  #7
Spandex is the fabric usually used for acoustically transparent screens.

You could also use a cheap muslin photography drape since they come in a lot of different colors.

The advantage of the projector screens is that they come with grommets which is nice for a temporary install.

People often build AT screens with a layer of black spandex behind a layer of white. I’ve never seen any data suggesting that they block any sound under 20kHz.

If this really is temporary, I highly recommend the cardboard boxes. You can get a very effective full wall trap with no compression, wall holes or carpentry, that can be modified and moved easily. Covering is also very quick and easy.

Safety disclaimer, you should paint all the boxes with fire ******ant.
Old 5th July 2020
  #8
Here for the gear
 

Hi Grovestand,

Thanks for the suggestions and info. Much appreciated!

I like your idea except that it really takes a lot of space off my front and back wall. I was thinking of using the tension rod across the front wall and use curtain clips that "pierce" a pleated curtain to pierce the Kraft backing on R38. Then place another curtain rod in front of the insulation and attach the fabric for that. I'd only lose a little over 12-inches from each wall

Speaking of fabric, my room is exactly 9ft high and 11ft wide so 108x132. You can buy a 100% polyester poplin tablecloth in that exact size. 100% Polyester poplin is what GIK uses for their panels and traps. Also, 100% polyester is inherently fire resistant.

The cardboard box idea is another case of brilliance. I love the innovative ideas that this community comes up with. Home Depot sells a moving cardboard box that is 24x24x44. Fill that up with fluffy and stack and you'd have a monster bass trap.

Thanks Again Everyone!
Old 5th July 2020
  #9
Here for the gear
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Caffrey View Post
The paper backing and clips don't hold a ton of weight, so if you go that direction, I think you'll find the 16 inch width far easier to manage than the 24 inch with. I had success with just 2 binder clips on the 24 inch width, but three clips was better and even one clip on the 16 was comparable.

You could also clip the sides at the joint of the top and bottom batts.

With just a little support from the top, the bottom batt pretty much stands on its own. I think running one piece of picture frame wire from the bottom batt to whatever you have the top batts hung from should be even safer.

There's another thread discussing the idea that anything thinner than 8 inches isn't broadband absorption. just mids and highs, maybe low mids.

I agree with that and having gone through the process in a a small room of starting with a couple of 4 inch deep panels and then systematically adding 12 inch deep batts until every coverable inch was covered, it's clear to me that the thiner than 8 inch guideline is a good one.

I can't see any reason to go thinner than 12 inches unless you have very little space, but I'd also consider the small size an argument for why you need at least a 12 inch depth.
Hi Mike,

Thanks again for the info. The batts don't weigh that much that I'd worry about them tearing the backing. I was also planning on placing hole reinforcement stickers where I pierced the backing to prevent them from tearing. I figure 4 clips with stickers across the back should distribute the weight evenly enough.

I agree on putting R38 everywhere but I'd lose so much space. Thermafiber SAFB at 6-inches provides great absorption down to about 80Hz. The R38 covering the front/back wall and corners should handle frequencies below that. I hope anyway. :-)
Old 5th July 2020
  #10
Here for the gear
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Caffrey View Post
There's another thread discussing the idea that anything thinner than 8 inches isn't broadband absorption. just mids and highs, maybe low mids.

I agree with that and having gone through the process in a a small room of starting with a couple of 4 inch deep panels and then systematically adding 12 inch deep batts until every coverable inch was covered, it's clear to me that the thiner than 8 inch guideline is a good one.

I can't see any reason to go thinner than 12 inches unless you have very little space, but I'd also consider the small size an argument for why you need at least a 12 inch depth.
Mike,

Wasn't that in regards to rigid/semi-rigid vs fluffy insulation? I agree with fluffy, anything less than 8-inches is a waste, but 6-inches of semi-rigid @2.5pcf has proven to be effective down to about 80Hz. It drops off a cliff after that, but that's where the R38 kicks in.

Thanks!
Old 5th July 2020
  #11
Here for the gear
 

Speaking of cardboard boxes...

https://www.amazon.com/Aviditi-48241...8QKVPKKE482N7X

That's the exact size of a R38 batt. Fill those up, cover the fronts and stack em up for the perfect temporary and portable wall of acoustic goodness!
Old 5th July 2020
  #12
Quote:
Originally Posted by WFH_Guy View Post
Speaking of cardboard boxes...

https://www.amazon.com/Aviditi-48241...8QKVPKKE482N7X

That's the exact size of a R38 batt. Fill those up, cover the fronts and stack em up for the perfect temporary and portable wall of acoustic goodness!
That’s cool. Super expensive though.

Edit: I guess $4 per box isn’t super expensive. Haha.

I’m not sure if r38 stood on its edge would compress under its own weight.

I was looking for something like that for a long time.

I have heard that it’s better to have the fibers parallel to the sound waves (if that makes sense) ie edges of fluffy exposed vs the flat side exposed.

Keep in mind that I’m not sure if that’s true, but it does make sense to me that the edge of insulation would break up a sound wave faster than the face.

Maybe someone can provide a link to some data on that.


I just went to Lowe’s and bought a bunch of cardboard boxes that were 16x18x18.

They’re about $2 each.

Cut the R30 into 18” pieces and lay them on their edge.

One roll will provide enough insulation for 16 boxes.
Attached Thumbnails
Stack 4x4 Panel Bass Traps Safely-cc6c7551-f081-4d54-9f49-388fbdc24f7f.jpg  
Old 5th July 2020
  #13
Here for the gear
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grovestand View Post
That’s cool. Super expensive though.

Edit: I guess $4 per box isn’t super expensive. Haha.

I’m not sure if r38 stood on its edge would compress under its own weight.

I was looking for something like that for a long time.

I have heard that it’s better to have the fibers parallel to the sound waves (if that makes sense) ie edges of fluffy exposed vs the flat side exposed.

Keep in mind that I’m not sure if that’s true, but it does make sense to me that the edge of insulation would break up a sound wave faster than the face.

Maybe someone can provide a link to some data on that.


I just went to Lowe’s and bought a bunch of cardboard boxes that were 16x18x18.

They’re about $2 each.

Cut the R30 into 18” pieces and lay them on their edge.

One roll will provide enough insulation for 16 boxes.
Yeah, I'd probably tape the top and bottom edge to the inside of the box. Also, if I stacked the boxes horizontally, the weight would be distributed more evenly. If I bought Kraft R38, I could staple the backing to the box as well.

So many cool ideas here. Luv it!
Old 5th July 2020
  #14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grovestand View Post
Spandex is the fabric usually used for acoustically transparent screens.

You could also use a cheap muslin photography drape since they come in a lot of different colors.

The advantage of the projector screens is that they come with grommets which is nice for a temporary install.

People often build AT screens with a layer of black spandex behind a layer of white. I’ve never seen any data suggesting that they block any sound under 20kHz.

If this really is temporary, I highly recommend the cardboard boxes. You can get a very effective full wall trap with no compression, wall holes or carpentry, that can be modified and moved easily. Covering is also very quick and easy.

Safety disclaimer, you should paint all the boxes with fire ******ant.
The screen info is helpful - thanks!

Is the black behind the white for better reflection when projecting or something else?


I've been considering something with grommets for making a fabric ceiling. You could use bungee cords to pull it tight.
Old 5th July 2020
  #15
Where did you find the tablecloth?

Quote:
Originally Posted by WFH_Guy View Post
Hi Grovestand,

Thanks for the suggestions and info. Much appreciated!

I like your idea except that it really takes a lot of space off my front and back wall. I was thinking of using the tension rod across the front wall and use curtain clips that "pierce" a pleated curtain to pierce the Kraft backing on R38. Then place another curtain rod in front of the insulation and attach the fabric for that. I'd only lose a little over 12-inches from each wall

Speaking of fabric, my room is exactly 9ft high and 11ft wide so 108x132. You can buy a 100% polyester poplin tablecloth in that exact size. 100% Polyester poplin is what GIK uses for their panels and traps. Also, 100% polyester is inherently fire resistant.

The cardboard box idea is another case of brilliance. I love the innovative ideas that this community comes up with. Home Depot sells a moving cardboard box that is 24x24x44. Fill that up with fluffy and stack and you'd have a monster bass trap.

Thanks Again Everyone!
Old 5th July 2020
  #16
I've been mounting mine on a stretched canvas that leaves the sides open for more surface area.

Then just lean them against the wall. I hung the top row, but I'm getting ready to experiment with bracketing the top and bottom in one piece.

Adding a canvas in front had some positive effects on the low end.

I've ordered a couple extra to experiment with in making a frame and I'm going to compare with and without the canvas on the front of the frame.

It's a little more expensive than cardboard boxes, but it means I can make my own panels with a can of spray glue and 4-6 wood screws.



Quote:
Originally Posted by WFH_Guy View Post
Speaking of cardboard boxes...

https://www.amazon.com/Aviditi-48241...8QKVPKKE482N7X

That's the exact size of a R38 batt. Fill those up, cover the fronts and stack em up for the perfect temporary and portable wall of acoustic goodness!
Old 5th July 2020
  #17
I'm pretty sure the direction makes no difference, especially if you're using something 12 inches thick.

If the R-38 has a paper back, it doesn't really compress, but if you stand it up raw, it will expand further.

The only issue with cardboard is that if someone bumps into it and bends it, it's going to need to be replaced. Especially if the weekend part happens low with the weight above it.

If you make a wall of the boxes so there's support for the edges, it will probably be less of an issue.

Also, the boxes may have a resonance which if you're adding multiple boxes with the same resonance will multiply its effect. The effect could be good or bad though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grovestand View Post
That’s cool. Super expensive though.

Edit: I guess $4 per box isn’t super expensive. Haha.

I’m not sure if r38 stood on its edge would compress under its own weight.

I was looking for something like that for a long time.

I have heard that it’s better to have the fibers parallel to the sound waves (if that makes sense) ie edges of fluffy exposed vs the flat side exposed.

Keep in mind that I’m not sure if that’s true, but it does make sense to me that the edge of insulation would break up a sound wave faster than the face.

Maybe someone can provide a link to some data on that.


I just went to Lowe’s and bought a bunch of cardboard boxes that were 16x18x18.

They’re about $2 each.

Cut the R30 into 18” pieces and lay them on their edge.

One roll will provide enough insulation for 16 boxes.
Old 5th July 2020
  #18
The main reason I’m using cardboard boxes is because I don’t want to repeat mistakes I’ve made.

Also, noise dust and time. I have a decent shop and the skills to do stuff but unless I am following a plan everything ends up taking forever or looking half assed.

So with the cardboard boxes I am committing to the half assed look.

Resonance is a possibility... however with the weight of the boxes and the amount of fiber in them I can’t imagine that they will resonate at a low enough frequency to cause any unsolvable problems.... unless it’s 300Hz... oh gee lol.

Built in traps look way better and you have a lot more options, but if you don’t get it right or you want to change something then it can be an expensive or time consuming mistake.

I’ve attached a sweep (1/48 smoothing) after doing the rear wall, 2 narrow band LF EQ boosts 80Hz and 125Hz, and moving my prebuilt treatment into this crazy arrangement.

As far as bumping into them, I was considering using carpet tape to attach a piece of 1/4” Luan over the sides of the box wall to make it look less terrible. But it is temporary.

Edit:

Black behind white is to prevent the projector light bleed from showing what’s behind the screen.

Yeah, 16” is a lot of depth. I built my room with the expectation to lose at least 4’ and up to 8’ because I wanted to keep as much width as possible.

Double edit:

Hmmm... I have some canvas...
Attached Thumbnails
Stack 4x4 Panel Bass Traps Safely-382cea90-fcd8-4277-8685-3b89fedc1f6f.jpg   Stack 4x4 Panel Bass Traps Safely-ce5b118a-e3bd-4775-ab81-0889e34972f2.jpg   Stack 4x4 Panel Bass Traps Safely-8d3bdd2b-b3e6-4e76-8c23-77b237fe51ed.jpg  
Old 6th July 2020
  #19
Here for the gear
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Caffrey View Post
Where did you find the tablecloth?
https://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Text...07L5WR123?th=1

Not bad for $30 and I don't have to cut anything. If you look around you can find even larger sizes and shapes. Square 132x132 is also available.

Cheers!
Old 6th July 2020
  #20
Here for the gear
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Caffrey View Post
I'm pretty sure the direction makes no difference, especially if you're using something 12 inches thick.

If the R-38 has a paper back, it doesn't really compress, but if you stand it up raw, it will expand further.

The only issue with cardboard is that if someone bumps into it and bends it, it's going to need to be replaced. Especially if the weekend part happens low with the weight above it.

If you make a wall of the boxes so there's support for the edges, it will probably be less of an issue.

Also, the boxes may have a resonance which if you're adding multiple boxes with the same resonance will multiply its effect. The effect could be good or bad though.
Interesting thought about resonance... The boxes I linked to are 32-ect which is the lightest single wall box available. They are NOT moving boxes and have a very low weight rating. They are barely more than Kraft paper. Hopefully not enough mass for resonance to be an issue. Of course I won't know until I try it.
Old 6th July 2020
  #21
Quote:
Originally Posted by WFH_Guy View Post
https://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Text...07L5WR123?th=1

Not bad for $30 and I don't have to cut anything. If you look around you can find even larger sizes and shapes. Square 132x132 is also available.

Cheers!
Damn!

5 yards of 108” unbleached muslin is about $40 from joanne’s fabrics and it isn’t fire rated nor does it block light.

Definitely looking forward to seeing your results!

Btw, my calculations were off. 1 R30 roll 25’ long is enough to fill 8 18x18x16 traps.

I don’t think resonance will be an issue, but if it is you can easily adjust it by drilling holes in the box while playing a sine wave at it. Stop when the resonance lines up with with a frequency you want to treat.
Old 6th July 2020
  #22
Here for the gear
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grovestand View Post
Damn!

5 yards of 108” unbleached muslin is about $40 from joanne’s fabrics and it isn’t fire rated nor does it block light.

Definitely looking forward to seeing your results!

Btw, my calculations were off. 1 R30 roll 25’ long is enough to fill 8 18x18x16 traps.

I don’t think resonance will be an issue, but if it is you can easily adjust it by drilling holes in the box while playing a sine wave at it. Stop when the resonance lines up with with a frequency you want to treat.
Yeah, I stumbled on the tablecloth when I was searching for large rolls of 100% Polyester Poplin fabric. The tablecloth is made of the same thing so it came up on my Google search. When I saw the sizes available, and that one came in the exact size of my front wall, I was thrilled! Not having to cut or sew fabric together to make a fabric wall is great. And price wise, it's about the same as if you bought the raw fabric by the yard. Doesn't get much better than that.

BTW, 100% Polyester isn't necessarily FR rated. But 100% Polyester is itself, inherently fire resistant. Some sellers offer a true FR rated version with a certificate, but that is usually specified in the listing.
Old 6th July 2020
  #23
It's not just canvas, I'm using "stretched canvases" because they come on a wood frame. They're more expensive than a box, but still pretty cheap and it's a pre-made wood frame.

Initially I was just using them to hold the R-38 with the idea of a fabric wall. I'm getting ready to experiment with using one as a front and one as a back to sandwich the R-38.

I may cut the canvas off the front and wrap them with guilford of main fabric or if leaving the canvas on the front tests better, I may stick with white or just wrap the whole thing.

You could attach some strips of molding to the sides of the boxes for a little extra strength and stability.

Home Depot sells something called Demo Bags which are trash bags for contractors.

I got some for transporting a bunch of opened R-38 and found that they fit two 16x48x12 batts perfectly and they'll even stand up.

I'm pretty sure the bags would hold grommets too, so that's a very cheap option that requires minimal skills/tools to make an extremely effective wall.

You could lie them sideways and make a stack behind autopoles which would be great for temporary scenarios.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Grovestand View Post
The main reason I’m using cardboard boxes is because I don’t want to repeat mistakes I’ve made.

Also, noise dust and time. I have a decent shop and the skills to do stuff but unless I am following a plan everything ends up taking forever or looking half assed.

So with the cardboard boxes I am committing to the half assed look.

Resonance is a possibility... however with the weight of the boxes and the amount of fiber in them I can’t imagine that they will resonate at a low enough frequency to cause any unsolvable problems.... unless it’s 300Hz... oh gee lol.

Built in traps look way better and you have a lot more options, but if you don’t get it right or you want to change something then it can be an expensive or time consuming mistake.

I’ve attached a sweep (1/48 smoothing) after doing the rear wall, 2 narrow band LF EQ boosts 80Hz and 125Hz, and moving my prebuilt treatment into this crazy arrangement.

As far as bumping into them, I was considering using carpet tape to attach a piece of 1/4” Luan over the sides of the box wall to make it look less terrible. But it is temporary.

Edit:

Black behind white is to prevent the projector light bleed from showing what’s behind the screen.

Yeah, 16” is a lot of depth. I built my room with the expectation to lose at least 4’ and up to 8’ because I wanted to keep as much width as possible.

Double edit:

Hmmm... I have some canvas...
Old 6th July 2020
  #24
As far as the graph, boosting lows can really tax your system and it looks like after filling in the holes you've got a ton of excess low end.

You may be better off with a wide cut.

It's also possible that you've got a big sub resonance with a first harmonic resonance too and you filled in so space between the octaves and after the first harmonic.


One thing to consider is the idea of trapping the corners is not because that's where the problems are it's because that's the most efficient place when trying to minimize materials.

You might find that moving the pile of boxes to a first reflection point or setting them up above and below you speakers gets you better results.

My current philosophy for small rooms is to use deep porous absorption on every part of the room and not start with anything special in the corners. I found that worked way better than filling the corners and covering first reflection points and leaving the rest open.

I also like covering the entire ceiling rather than just having a cloud.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Grovestand View Post
The main reason I’m using cardboard boxes is because I don’t want to repeat mistakes I’ve made.

Also, noise dust and time. I have a decent shop and the skills to do stuff but unless I am following a plan everything ends up taking forever or looking half assed.

So with the cardboard boxes I am committing to the half assed look.

Resonance is a possibility... however with the weight of the boxes and the amount of fiber in them I can’t imagine that they will resonate at a low enough frequency to cause any unsolvable problems.... unless it’s 300Hz... oh gee lol.

Built in traps look way better and you have a lot more options, but if you don’t get it right or you want to change something then it can be an expensive or time consuming mistake.

I’ve attached a sweep (1/48 smoothing) after doing the rear wall, 2 narrow band LF EQ boosts 80Hz and 125Hz, and moving my prebuilt treatment into this crazy arrangement.

As far as bumping into them, I was considering using carpet tape to attach a piece of 1/4” Luan over the sides of the box wall to make it look less terrible. But it is temporary.

Edit:

Black behind white is to prevent the projector light bleed from showing what’s behind the screen.

Yeah, 16” is a lot of depth. I built my room with the expectation to lose at least 4’ and up to 8’ because I wanted to keep as much width as possible.

Double edit:

Hmmm... I have some canvas...
Old 6th July 2020
  #25
Thanks Mike,

I don’t want to hijack this thread for advice.

But I appreciate it.

I will start a separate thread for my room.



I will probably move the Panels at the front of the room to the ceiling once I’ve made more R30 boxes for testing up there at the front.

There is also some SBIR or phase stuff going on with my left speaker and sub.

You may be right about cutting the low end, or maybe just turning the subs down, or plugging the ports.

AMROC put my first mode at 25Hz. The second one is around 40. One of the reasons I made the room as long as I did was to try to get the first mode low enough that I wouldn’t have to treat it. But I got a second sub and now there is a bit more power under 35Hz or so.
Old 6th July 2020
  #26
Thanks! That might work very well for me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by WFH_Guy View Post
https://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Text...07L5WR123?th=1

Not bad for $30 and I don't have to cut anything. If you look around you can find even larger sizes and shapes. Square 132x132 is also available.

Cheers!
Old 6th July 2020
  #27
I bet it's the subs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grovestand View Post
Thanks Mike,

I don’t want to hijack this thread for advice.

But I appreciate it.

I will start a separate thread for my room.



I will probably move the Panels at the front of the room to the ceiling once I’ve made more R30 boxes for testing up there at the front.

There is also some SBIR or phase stuff going on with my left speaker and sub.

You may be right about cutting the low end, or maybe just turning the subs down, or plugging the ports.

AMROC put my first mode at 25Hz. The second one is around 40. One of the reasons I made the room as long as I did was to try to get the first mode low enough that I wouldn’t have to treat it. But I got a second sub and now there is a bit more power under 35Hz or so.
Old 7th July 2020
  #28
Quote:
Originally Posted by WFH_Guy View Post
BTW, 100% Polyester isn't necessarily FR rated. But 100% Polyester is itself, inherently fire resistant. Some sellers offer a true FR rated version with a certificate, but that is usually specified in the listing.
That amazon link you posted seems to be rated.

It doesn’t hurt to have the certificate, and so cheap. I will definitely use that instead of muslin for my rear wall and ceiling if I do fabric there.

Please post pictures when you’re done!
Old 7th July 2020
  #29
Here for the gear
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grovestand View Post
Thanks Mike,

I don’t want to hijack this thread for advice.

But I appreciate it.

I will start a separate thread for my room.



I will probably move the Panels at the front of the room to the ceiling once I’ve made more R30 boxes for testing up there at the front.

There is also some SBIR or phase stuff going on with my left speaker and sub.

You may be right about cutting the low end, or maybe just turning the subs down, or plugging the ports.

AMROC put my first mode at 25Hz. The second one is around 40. One of the reasons I made the room as long as I did was to try to get the first mode low enough that I wouldn’t have to treat it. But I got a second sub and now there is a bit more power under 35Hz or so.
Grovestand,

You do not need to start a separate thread on my account. I love all the information that is being shared. All the info I've received from you and Mike has me totally rethinking my original plan. Please continue.

Thanks!
Old 7th July 2020
  #30
Here for the gear
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grovestand View Post
That amazon link you posted seems to be rated.

It doesn’t hurt to have the certificate, and so cheap. I will definitely use that instead of muslin for my rear wall and ceiling if I do fabric there.

Please post pictures when you’re done!
Yes that one is fire rated, but a lot aren't. I just didn't want people to think that all 100% Polyester fabric is fire rated.

Cheers!
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