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2'x4'x8" fluffy absorber. Solid back or leave it open?
Old 17th November 2016
  #1
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24"x48"x12"(depth) Open back against side walls

I ended up making them 12" thick. These things are blackholes ! I should have them painted and finished this weekend 12-14-16

The backs are open, moot point to put backs on since they back to the walls anyway

Last edited by kgveteran; 15th December 2016 at 07:21 PM.. Reason: Finished project, title resembles thread content
Old 28th November 2016
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Here ya go ! I gotta get em all glued together
Old 21st December 2016
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One obsevation i made with these new absorbers. When i set up my surround system, my left and right were not balanced, the right speaker seemed quieter at the LP. I dropped the left by a half a db and raised the right by a half db. That worked fine, but something just wasnt right.......

Yesterday i installed my monster first reflection point absorbers and had to readjust the levels, they are now balanced and the image is really amazing. With out the reflections off the side walls, i get a focused image and some more output, due to the lack of reflection. Everytime i add a new position of acoustic treatment im able to raise the volume a bit more and really enjoy the music and not get a blurred soundstage. Next the ceiling........

Now i understand why there is so much upgading of speakers, amps, processors, in my world of home audio, at least 90% of the rooms out there are untreated, they are hoping new equipment will help, not a chance, not with the the charactor of the room interfering with the music. I understand we all cant have dedicated rooms, but at least acknowledge acoustic treatments

Im now looking at my vaulted ceilings to see what i should do to them.

PS: The room seems more pleasant to just sit in and talk :0) Another myth is deadening a room too much, they did the exact opposite, it opened up the soundstage, magic. One more thing, before these were in place i had to sit dead center to get any kind of balance, its perfect across all three seats !!!!! I can go on and on LOL
Old 21st December 2016
  #4
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Congratualtions and thank you for the update!

Andre
Old 1st January 2017
  #5
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New pic of the absorber. I cut back to one, and now using the other two for a cloud above the main LCR
Old 1st January 2017
  #6
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Not sure what this is gonna do, but it looks a bit intimidating to me LOL......

Old 18th January 2017
  #7
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Looking good, what insulation did you use for them?
Old 18th January 2017
  #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mashie View Post
Looking good, what insulation did you use for them?
JohnMansville R38 batts (24"x48"), its 13" thick, i made the absorber 12" thick, and the actual thickness of the compressed insulation is 10.5".
Old 20th February 2017
  #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kgveteran View Post
JohnMansville R38 batts (24"x48"), its 13" thick, i made the absorber 12" thick, and the actual thickness of the compressed insulation is 10.5".

Awesome work. How did you get the R38 from sagging or settling once everything was wrappe were wrapped?
Old 21st February 2017
  #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L-Fire View Post
Awesome work. How did you get the R38 from sagging or settling once everything was wrappe were wrapped?
Theres a small amount of compression. The insulation is 13" thick, the screens that hold the insulation are about 10.5" So that holds it also the friction from the surface of the screen material.

The insulation is kind of thick and once its expanded ( it took a few weeks for it to open up from being compressed for packaging ) , i could get it to stand on end in my garage on the 2' height and 4' width, unless it suffered an injury or being dropped, they stay in place.
Old 21st February 2017
  #11
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When you did the wrapping, did you attach the fabric to the inside of the frame first and then added the insulation or did you wrap the insulation first and then pushed it all into the frames?

I may do one or two of these if I have enough leftovers in my last 100mm Knauf Acoustic roll.
Old 8th March 2017
  #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kgveteran View Post
Theres a small amount of compression. The insulation is 13" thick, the screens that hold the insulation are about 10.5" So that holds it also the friction from the surface of the screen material.

The insulation is kind of thick and once its expanded ( it took a few weeks for it to open up from being compressed for packaging ) , i could get it to stand on end in my garage on the 2' height and 4' width, unless it suffered an injury or being dropped, they stay in place.
You gave me a good idea. I'm compressing R30 (9") to about 7" inside of frames made from 1x10's. I almost went with a screen material but I stumbled upon some small eyelets with screws on the ends. I just screwed 5 or 6 eyelets on the inside of the frames and used thin but strong twine strung through the eyelets to hold the insulation in and up. The good thing about it is that the R30 is only compressed over about 15%-20% of the total surface area. This allows it to be kept up from sagging as well as kept in, making the front clean and non-pillowy. I'll then place the panels on wheels. They measure 6' x 45" x 9.25"

I'll post some pics when I'm done. Thanks.
Old 10th March 2017
  #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mashie View Post
When you did the wrapping, did you attach the fabric to the inside of the frame first and then added the insulation or did you wrap the insulation first and then pushed it all into the frames?

I may do one or two of these if I have enough leftovers in my last 100mm Knauf Acoustic roll.
I made frames like speaker grills, and stapled the material just like speaker grills. Used some velcro to hold them in place.

FRP absorbers are amazing, everytime i add absorbers and remove a reflection point i hear the main speakers even more.
Old 10th March 2017
  #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L-Fire View Post
You gave me a good idea. I'm compressing R30 (9") to about 7" inside of frames made from 1x10's. I almost went with a screen material but I stumbled upon some small eyelets with screws on the ends. I just screwed 5 or 6 eyelets on the inside of the frames and used thin but strong twine strung through the eyelets to hold the insulation in and up. The good thing about it is that the R30 is only compressed over about 15%-20% of the total surface area. This allows it to be kept up from sagging as well as kept in, making the front clean and non-pillowy. I'll then place the panels on wheels. They measure 6' x 45" x 9.25"

I'll post some pics when I'm done. Thanks.
"Pillowy" good discription to avoid, thats why i did a little compression, to hold it in place and keep the insulation from pushing out the grill material.

Please post some pics if you can
Old 10th March 2017
  #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kgveteran View Post
I made frames like speaker grills, and stapled the material just like speaker grills. Used some velcro to hold them in place.

FRP absorbers are amazing, everytime i add absorbers and remove a reflection point i hear the main speakers even more.
Ah ok, good idea. We will see what I end up using my leftover fluffy in. I like this design though.
Old 9th October 2019
  #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kgveteran View Post
"Pillowy" good discription to avoid, thats why i did a little compression, to hold it in place and keep the insulation from pushing out the grill material.

Please post some pics if you can
What's wrong with the pillowy look?
Old 16th October 2019
  #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by px256 View Post
What's wrong with the pillowy look?
Nothing at all, if thats what ur looking for, i wanted them flat......
Old 16th October 2019
  #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kgveteran View Post
Nothing at all, if thats what ur looking for, i wanted them flat......
I mean, is it generally frowned upon by the community?
Old 16th October 2019
  #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by px256 View Post
I mean, is it generally frowned upon by the community?
It's all up to you if you want them to look like sacks of potatoes or not. You are the one that have to look at them.
Old 16th October 2019
  #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mashie View Post
It's all up to you if you want them to look like sacks of potatoes or not. You are the one that have to look at them.
Hehe, sacks of potatoes. There we have it ?
Old 16th October 2019
  #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by px256 View Post
Hehe, sacks of potatoes. There we have it ?
Ok a more serious reply. From an acoustic point of view it doesn't matter, however putting in the extra time to make the surface flat will most likely make you feel better about it over time. It all really depends on the over all style you want in the room.

Someone here used what looked like drycleaning bags filled with insulation stacked on top of each other. Great if you like the look of Santa's grotto.
Old 16th October 2019
  #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by px256 View Post
I mean, is it generally frowned upon by the community?
Speaking about pillows, i use a dozen zippered pillowcases full of pink fluffy for speakers that are behind my acoustically transparent screen. It had an odd sound without them, so I kind a placed them randomly here they’re on top of the speakers you can’t see any of them because they’re behind the screen but they definitely help out with the decay time in the room.
Old 21st October 2019
  #23
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I abandoned the fluffy design anyway ?
Didn’t manage to get a nice surface with the thin chiffon fabric.

Here is my latest 95 mm design:
New attic studio for vocal recording
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