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alternatives to CRAP! Behringer ADA8000 Ultragain Pro-8 A/D/A Converter
Old 7th August 2010
Lives for gear
Stitch333's Avatar

Ima bump this post as it very informative.
FWIW: Gyraf is a genius.
Originally Posted by drtechno View Post
crackaly noises are cased by bad optical cable or improper sync settings. Its best to run these things as slave adat and your interface as internal sync.

I encounter it at times with the one connected to my m-audio FireWire 1814 system. I just turn off/on the ada8000 and its ok.
I have never had it mess up on my Event EZ8 ADAT card system.

once you bypass the mic pre's you have a very nice line level a/d converter.

the a/d converter is an Alesis/Wavefront Semiconductor chipset
they set up perfectly with my soundcraft studio board's direct outs.

this is how the mod goes - this is done on the skinny board in the front on all channels:

this is what you have to do for each channel:

1. remove both sets of 47uF capacitors
2. remove both 6.8k resistors (I just cut all of them out with some clippers)
3. remove both glass surface mount diodes
4. remove both 825 ohm resistors
5. remove both 2.49k resistors
6. remove both A1316 pin in hole transistors
7. remove both A06 surface mount transistors
8. install jumper wire across where the 47 uF caps were
9. install jumper wire across where the base to collector juntion of the A1316 pin in hole transistor was.

And there you go, if you feel that you cannot perform this mod yourself, consult your local TV/VCR repair shop. They would have the knowledge and equipment to do this task. and trust me, this mod is worth it.

attached is the schematics for it, GYRAF submitted it in the original thread. print it out and take it to the shop. Happy mods
Old 14th August 2010
Gear Maniac
Samuelito's Avatar
HI everyone!!!!

I'm needing some help.
I acheived the mod and worked great for a moment, but suddenly the only thing I could hear was noise.
Opened the box and found a blue cable disconnected. I tried to solder it to the power source as I thought it should go there, but as I reconnected the ADA, one of the caps blew away.
So, changed the cap, disconnected the blue cable again and everything was as before.
Still noise and no signal.
Does anyone know were should that blue cable be connected???
Can someone open this F...... box and guide me???
I leave a photo of mine for u 2 see what I'm talking about.

Thx in advance

Attached Thumbnails
alternatives to CRAP! Behringer ADA8000 Ultragain Pro-8 A/D/A Converter-ada8000_-cable.jpg  
Old 14th August 2010
Lives for gear
tampa's Avatar

Originally Posted by S.F.Sorrow View Post
I've heard many say that the best results are with the pres turned all the way down on the ADA8000. Problem is, when turned down the signal out is considerably lower than a normal line level signal. I have to turn i up around 3-4 steps to get a "normal" signal out of it. Is my unit faulty or is this normal for the ADA8000? And is it normal that some steps boost the gain a lot more than others (but the same on every channel)?.

I've tried contacting Behringer about this but they just gave a very vague reply that didn't really answer the question. After that they simply stopped answering any questions at all...
Your unit is not defective. The ADA8000 is what it is, it is a very cheaply built unit on many fronts. I got rid of mine a while ago and never looked back.
Old 14th August 2010
Lives for gear

Sam (had one disconnected right beside me with one screw holding the cover on heh)-

On this US model, it's from the back of that power jack/fuse assembly on the rear panel (in the upper right corner of your picture). It looks like it goes to a pin on the far right side the way yours is facing. Mine's wrapped in electrical tape. The wiring looks different than your model, but one of your pins will probably look like something broke off. It should have had a little segment of heatshrink tubing on it like those other connections.

Hope that helps!


--Just attached a pic
Attached Thumbnails
alternatives to CRAP! Behringer ADA8000 Ultragain Pro-8 A/D/A Converter-ada8000-usa-model-.jpg  
Old 15th August 2010
Gear Maniac
Samuelito's Avatar
Thanks George!!!

That was exactly what I thought on first instance, but the third pin from the power jack/fuse had notthing. Clean!!! I solder it there anyway cause I was sure that was the position, but then the cap exploted.

Now I looking again and the third pin (left 2 right) of the power jack/fuse is linked to the fuse and gets inside the PS by the red cable that comes out from the other side of the fuse.
The first pin of the power jack/fuse goes straight to the power on button and back into the PS.
The second one is the mass, earth, whatever...connected to the chasis.
The blue cable comes out of the PS...
Considering that the PS has both sides of the power entrance, should the blue cable be connected to the chassis also???

I must be ********!!!!!!
Old 15th August 2010
Lives for gear
stagefright13's Avatar

I had one of these for over a year no problem. I piped my adat signal from my Trango24 converter wich has an extra adat out to it and it synced perfect. It was the slave in tracking room. No pops or clicks. And I used a ridiculously cheap and long and thin light pipe cord.

I have heard these 8000's blow up but I keep all equipment cool. I suggest not working in a hot environment. And keep your rack well ventilated. Converters and reverbs can run VERY hot. And need some special care.

Another post that is just as useful as tit's on a nun.

Old 19th August 2010
Gear Maniac
Samuelito's Avatar
Thx John!!!

I think I'll go to church this Sunday and check out the nuns in town.

Anyone else with and idea for reparing this piece of s.h.i.t.???

I need it for the time being till I buy a AI-3 or a Tango 24 and send it to BLA for a mod.


Old 19th August 2010
Gear Maniac
Samuelito's Avatar

Hope is not much to ask.
If you still have the ADA8000 beside you, could take of the tape and take a photo of the jack/fuse connection?
Or even just tell me exactly were the blue cable is connected.

Sorry for bodering you again, you are the only one who gave me some info.
And thank you very much for your time.


Old 20th August 2010
Lives for gear


No problem. I started to do that the other day anyhow.

I'll attach a CAD sketch too, but keep in mind this is the US model. I'm not sure how yours was originally wired.

The drawing is of the rear (connection) side of the assembly. The red & blue at the top go to the transformer. The black at the bottom left heads to the front power switch, and the green is chassis grounded.

Hope that helps!

Attached Thumbnails
alternatives to CRAP! Behringer ADA8000 Ultragain Pro-8 A/D/A Converter-ada8000_xfrmer.jpg  
Attached Images
alternatives to CRAP! Behringer ADA8000 Ultragain Pro-8 A/D/A Converter-ada8000_power.jpg 
Old 20th August 2010
Gear Maniac
Samuelito's Avatar
Thanx George!!!!!

I only have one question. the fuse goes between the red and the blue???
Yesterday I tried to connect the blue one to ground and at least it didn't explote.
I have to put some signal through it and see what happens.
Anyway, I'll re-check everything with your sketch and photos before soldering.

Thanks again for your time and have a good weekend.

Old 20th August 2010
Lives for gear

Hey Sam,

I guess we don't know how that fuse part is wired internally, unless we find a similar one somewhere online. The red and blue are just the outside connections.

If you have enough trouble with this issue, you may want to try posting into one of those threads over at the Prodigy forums or wherever most of that mod info used to be. I remember some pretty long threads so I'm guessing there are a bunch of guys who are quite familiar with ADA guts out there.

Take Care

Old 20th August 2010
Lives for gear
The ADA8000 does have a known quality problem that many describe as a "frying eggs sound" that's different from a sync issue. Google will show multiple instances of it; however I'm not sure what the preventative care is if at all.

In some cases, people never have this problem; a lot of live sound people who use them as 01v expanders carry 2 so that when one dies (not if) they've got a backup.

I don't have a horse in this race, but at one point did have an Alesis AI3 which seemed stable; I believe Black Lion is still modifying those. No preamps, but at that pricepoint that's probably a good thing.
Old 20th August 2010
Gear Head
goodone's Avatar
yeah, presonus digimax series is good -- i don't have the D8 but went for the FS model because it has inserts on all channels, which is worth the extra bucks to me. i use it via ADAT to my 1814 and the pres are a significant improvement to the onboard ones on the interface, to my humble ears. one change i made a little while in to using it was to run BNC from the FS to the 1814 and sync them that way -- having dedicated sync apart from ADAT seemed to clean up noise and weirdness a lot.
Old 20th August 2010
Lives for gear

Nedorama & Sam,

I actually have an AI-3 here as well, which is what I "upgraded" from. I liked the pres in the ADA enough for drum mics and it saved me an extra unit and cabling for that. I think an AI-3 is a bit dated in 2010 unless you get one super cheap. Its sync features are a bit limited. It auto clocks to external if there's ADAT input present, and there's no WC input. This posed a problem for me as it didn't seem to approve of the ADAT clock from my MOTU 2408mk3 and made really subtle clicks and fuzz. The Behringer worked fine feeding both directions simultaneously. My AI-3 also has a couple malfunctioning LEDs (seems to be an "Alesis thing" here). If you're set on a non-Behringer, there might be an SM Pro Audio or something out there in that same range.

Take Care
Old 20th August 2010
Gear Maniac
Samuelito's Avatar
Thanks everyone!!!!

I appreciate all the info u've posted.
I'll tell how the story goes for me at the moment.
My setup is:

* Digi 002R BLA mod (Signature series) (no BNC input or output, just ADAT in/out)

* Behringer ADA8000 modded (as on the thread) (worked till that cable disconnected)

*Amek Scorpion 12 channels (mic pres)

The idea was always using the ADA8000 as line inputs (the preampos don't work no more) clocked to the 002 as slave and use the board for tracking. EQ's + outboard gear. heh

I want to keep the signal as clean as possible that's why a AI-3 or a Tango 24 would do the work (modded would be my salvation), but they are just hard to find sometimes.
The thing about SM pro audio is that the card has only ADAT output and I can not lock it as slave to the 002 (s.h.i.t.y thing cause I like does pres - really clean).

I think prodigy is the answer but first I'll try to ground that blue cable and see if works. Is the only possibility left. At least it didn't explote the cap when I tested.


Would you consider selling the AI-3 if u don't use it?? I might be intrested as I think u are in the US and I could send it directly to Black lion audio, get that thing modded and end this story ones and for all.
I'll understand if u want to keep it as a backup.


Thanks again to you all, and have a nice weekend.


Old 20th August 2010
Lives for gear

Hey again Sam,

I'm out of a studio right now, but I'm hanging on to the AI-3 for line level i/o to the handful of analog stuff I still have left. the Behringer stayed in the tracking room near the drums. I'd still look around for others though if you need an 8x8 converter with no pre's. With the cost of modding there may already be something comparable new.


PS- You know those ADA's have the same Wavefront Semi converter chips as the Alesis? (not that that's all there is to the circuit though)
Old 20th August 2010
Gear Maniac
Samuelito's Avatar
Yes I knew that. That's why I tried to mod the behringer.
They say is practically a copy of the schematics aswell for one model of RME that I don't rememeber right now.
The BLA mod is around 250 bucks + 250 for the gear, I don't think I'll get something that good for that price.

I've been following BLA since their early years when they started with the SM pro audio PR8 mod and I really trust the guys. I think they do a great job.
IMHO one of the outbreaking companies in recording industry of the last years. (don't know if I'm using the term correctly)

Take a look, I've just found one modded on ebay.
Hope the seller will agrre shipping it outside US.

Alesis AI3 with Black Lion Mod Pro Tools LE - eBay (item 260652874714 end time Aug-25-10 20:14:26 PDT)


Old 23rd June 2012
Here for the gear

Late but useful

This is the answer to Samuelito's detached wire problem, even thou the original post is from 2009, now 3 years later in jun 2012 the answer may help to someone with the same question...

First: almost all Behringers use the fuse holder position (on top of the power cable connector) to select the operating voltage between 110 V and 220 V NOW PAY ATTENTION ! ! = just flipping the fuse holder.

Now.. the news: If you are using the Behringer with 110 volts coming out of the wall plug... nothing bad will happen with the disconnected wire or either fuse holder positions.

But if you are working with 220 volts and the wrong fuse holder position (110 Volts) you may have blown some serious **** inside. that's probably what happened when the cap blew, pushing 220 Volts into a unit wired for 110 Volts..
POOOOF ! ! ! the cap and a few other components, like voltage regulators and more to come

If you took the fuse holder to check the fuse and put it back without paying attention to the right position or ignoring what you were doing... well... a recipe for disaster.

A last possibility, the fuse was in the 220 Volt position (and the wire for 110 V was disconnected, which don't really matters in this case), That means, unit wired for 220V but receiving 110V.. it will do something but definitely will not work right. maybe that was your noise...? GET A TECH, before you finally burn it beyond repair ! ! !

Check the attached diagram
Attached Thumbnails
alternatives to CRAP! Behringer ADA8000 Ultragain Pro-8 A/D/A Converter-graphic1.jpg  
Old 23rd June 2012
Gear Maniac
Samuelito's Avatar
Gracias rdelplaza!!!!

Long, short story. I blew a cap from the behringer trying to connect the cable.
Sent it to a tech, changed the cap and he was not sure where to put the cable so he didn't charged me.
Taped the cable and left it unconnected and it was all good to go.
Used it a while and the I bought a Tango 24 from Frontier Design and send it to BLA for a mod.
Behringer is now in use with a friend. Still running smoothly!!!

Anyway thanks for the reply. it will surely help someone!!!

Old 30th June 2012
Here for the gear

Recorded entirely on a PRO-8

I hate all this Behringer bashing - yes some products are trash but the PRO 8 is really good, especially for us guys with a limited budget. I recorded this entirely using the Pro8 and am happy with the results... cover of a Who song for my tribute band:

Its a stock unit, no mods. Mixed in Sonar with LiquidMix and various other plugs especially the Bootsy stuff.
Old 30th June 2012
Here for the gear

Originally Posted by ModMan68 View Post
I hate all this Behringer bashing - yes some products are trash but the PRO 8 is really good, especially for us guys with a limited budget. I recorded this entirely using the Pro8 and am happy with the results... cover of a Who song for my tribute band:

Its a stock unit, no mods. Mixed in Sonar with LiquidMix and various other plugs especially the Bootsy stuff.
Chinese mics too! Sontronics STC1 for vocals, SM57 snare, Glyn Johns setup on drums with Superlux small diapraghm condensers, Samson and D12 kick drum mics, Samson C3 on bass cab, Mimic no name mic on it!
Old 1st July 2012
Lives for gear

All comes down to verifying that you have synch lock.
On the right side of the ADA are two buttons. "master" and "synch"
If the "synch" on isnt lit up it doesnt matter WHAT you are doing with the other one.

And OP: I have to agree - learn what you are supposed to be doing before you rant.
It is a lot less embarrassing than being pilloried for bad attitude and dumbness later.

I expect you'll all be wondering how I know this.... (grin)
Old 2nd July 2012
Gear Addict
UPRYZ's Avatar
If you can hear any improvement in a Digimax over the ADA8000 i'll buy you a snickers.
Old 2nd July 2012
Here for the gear

ADA8000 is one of the best converters out there. Its price cant be beaten and the quality is comparable to some high end converters costing 15 times more. There is a thread in the forums of someone posting samples recorded with lynx Aurora and Behringer and guess what? 70 % or more of the Slutz said the best clips are the Behringer(without knowing which is which)
Its worthless bypasing the pres because at minimum gain, the diference is undistinguishable from the bypased Mod.
Be aware of the power Supply if in the Usa. The toroid tranny fries because of bad design in 110 V.
Keep using it. It rocks
Old 2nd July 2012
Gear Maniac

Originally Posted by sleeper1400 View Post
well, its not often used. but i dont like the optical outs, they crackly.
A 5 second search would give you the solution to the problem. Considerably less time than what it took you to make your behringer bashing thread. We really don't need anymore of those.
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