Login / Register
 
Studio Build in Virginia--Help!!
New Reply
Subscribe
Melody Jones
Thread Starter
#1
9th February 2013
Old 9th February 2013
  #1
Gear interested
 
Joined: Jan 2009
Location: New York, New York
Posts: 1

Thread Starter
Melody Jones is offline
Studio Build in Virginia--Help!!

Hello,
I am building a recording studio in Spotsylvania, VA. We have one wall that has the HVAC unit on the other side. We are going to add rubber mounts underneath it, and actually re-route all the vents into the booth and the mixing room from another HVAC unit at the other end of the house.

I am trying to learn if I need to decouple the studs from the concrete floor. We purchased bath-tub rubber to cut and put green glue underneath so that it would decouple the 2X4 that nails along the floor. Then we are building a room in a room. We are planning to use two 5/8" sheetrock walls with green glue inbetween the sheets.

Do we need to Decouple more by adding g-clips/iso-clips and hat track?

I have heard that resilient channel is not as good as iso-clips and hat track? Is that true? Where do you get hat track?

Would it help to stop more noise if we added MLV on the studs, then iso-channels, then sheetrock/GG/sheetrock? Or do we even need the MLV?

The ceiling is already there, so we are trying to drop another ceiling down to stop the floor noise from above.

Was also wondering if rockwool would be best to use, since we are in the basement with moisture? Also have learned that the spray insulation is the best noise stopper. What is the best spray insulation to use?

Where is the best place to get the door seals to secure no noise transmission thru the doors?

Want to sing in the studio and do VO. Can I put down a wood floor with a carpet over it for the different uses?

Thanks for your help
Melody Jones
#2
9th February 2013
Old 9th February 2013
  #2
Gear Guru
 
Ethan Winer's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2002
Location: New Milford, CT, USA
Posts: 13,667

Ethan Winer is offline
Lightbulb

Quote:
Originally Posted by Melody Jones View Post
Where is the best place to get the door seals to secure no noise transmission thru the doors?
I'll let Rod or someone else more knowledgeable about HVAC answer your other questions, but I can help with this one:

Zero International

--Ethan

The Acoustic Treatment Experts
__________________
Ethan's Audio Expert book
#3
9th February 2013
Old 9th February 2013
  #3
Lives for gear
 
Rod Gervais's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2003
Location: Central Village CT
Posts: 4,721

Rod Gervais is offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by Melody Jones View Post
Hello,
I am building a recording studio in Spotsylvania, VA. We have one wall that has the HVAC unit on the other side. We are going to add rubber mounts underneath it, and actually re-route all the vents into the booth and the mixing room from another HVAC unit at the other end of the house.
Be careful with how you take this into the rooms so you don't have issues with weak isolation points caused by duct penetrations - the best method is to build some baffles to bring the duct into.

Quote:
I am trying to learn if I need to decouple the studs from the concrete floor. We purchased bath-tub rubber to cut and put green glue underneath so that it would decouple the 2X4 that nails along the floor.
This is a waste of both time and cash - Personally I would not bother with this.

Quote:
Then we are building a room in a room. We are planning to use two 5/8" sheetrock walls with green glue in between the sheets.
Good idea - be sure to focus on the ceiling as well - isolation is generally only as good as your weakest link.

Quote:
Do we need to Decouple more by adding g-clips/iso-clips and hat track?

I have heard that resilient channel is not as good as iso-clips and hat track? Is that true? Where do you get hat track?
Nope - if you're going to build isolated wall frames this too would be a waste of cash.

Quote:
Would it help to stop more noise if we added MLV on the studs, then iso-channels, then sheetrock/GG/sheetrock? Or do we even need the MLV?
Again - no - the cheapest mass on the market is drywall - if you want a lot of isolation - add more drywall - MLV is a waste of cash......

BTW - you will get better low frequency isolation with 2x6 on 24" centers than with 2x4 on 16" centers - and the cost breakout is just a little more for the 2x6 due to plate size. High frequencies take care of themselves in either case - low frequencies are always the problem.

Quote:
The ceiling is already there, so we are trying to drop another ceiling down to stop the floor noise from above.
The devil is in the details with all of this - constructing in a manner that avoids direct connections between the house and the new space - a good manner to deal with this is to make the base layer of sheathing in the room with a structural board - i.e." plywood, waferboard, etc., whatever is less expensive for you in your area - 7/16" is just fine for that purpose.

This way you will not have to brace the new back to the old - nor will you need to buy special acoustic isolators.

As far as the ceiling goes - you need to do one of 2 things - and that is either make sure you have new ceiling joists that are capable of carrying the load - or you will have to install some mid-span isolation hangers to transfer some of the load to the existing building.

Quote:
Was also wondering if rockwool would be best to use, since we are in the basement with moisture? Also have learned that the spray insulation is the best noise stopper. What is the best spray insulation to use?
My best suggestion to you would be to solve your moisture problem.

While it's true that rockwool does not support mold growth - the wood will - the drywall will - the concrete behind the rockwool and drywall will - etc., etc., etc.

This is not something you really want to ignore......

That having been said, rockwool will work - however you want the lightest weight you can get - the best "bang for the buck" when it comes to these things is standard fiberglass house insulation.

The problem with a spray type insulation is tat it is physically impossible to spray it and not create a bridge between the foundation and new wood frame - so although it is excellent insulation from a thermal point of view - it is not what you want from an acoustic isolation point of view in this case.

Quote:
Where is the best place to get the door seals to secure no noise transmission thru the doors?
Ethan provided an excellent answer to this - Zero Intl. makeS some excellent products.

Quote:
Want to sing in the studio and do VO. Can I put down a wood floor with a carpet over it for the different uses?
Sure - no problem with that - however I would again point out that you need to deal with your moisture issue - all of these little areas with voids are the love of mold's life.....

I hope this helped,

Rod
#4
13th February 2013
Old 13th February 2013
  #4
Lives for gear
 
Salty James's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Location: alexandria va
Posts: 646

Salty James is offline
__________________
"We all stand on Rupert Neve's shoulders. Literally"

-Dave Pensado
New Reply Submit Thread to Facebook Facebook  Submit Thread to Twitter Twitter  Submit Thread to LinkedIn LinkedIn  Submit Thread to Google+ Google+ 
 
Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Similar Threads
Thread
Thread Starter / Forum
Replies
Doublehelix / Photo diaries of recording studio construction projects
23
Clueless / Photo diaries of recording studio construction projects
1768
EduardoApolonia / Photo diaries of recording studio construction projects
741
Matthew Murray / Photo diaries of recording studio construction projects
326
Seti808 / Photo diaries of recording studio construction projects
589

Forum Jump

SEO by vBSEO ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.