Best way to install 2-layers of Drywall on RSIC ceiling and walls
I'm going to be installing drywall to my rehearsal space over Christmas break. I am using RSIC-2 clips ordered from PAC International and I already have the 5/8" fire rated drywall ordered and ready to deliver on Dec 26th.
My question is, what is the best method to install the drywall? I've seen the staggered method with backer rod between each ceiling-to-wall and wall-to-wall connection point. But I've also seen where people install both layers of drywall on the ceiling first and then the 2-layers on the walls, still with backer rod between all ceiling-to-wall and wall-to-wall connection points.
What is the preferred or best option? The main reason I want to know is I want to make sure my last layer of drywall matches up with the center of the hat track to be able to install the maximum amount of full 4x8 sheets of drywall.
For example the last sheet on the ceiling using the staggered method will start 2.625 inches away from the framing member (using RSIC-2 and 5/8" drywall), putting the 'drywall edge' hat track at 50.625 inches from the wall framing member. Whereas just installing both ceiling layers first I just need to make sure I have a gap (thinking 1/2 in) from the wall framing members, putting the 'drywall edge' hat track at 48.5 inches.
I think 2 1/8" is a big difference in where to install the 'drywall edge' hat track and won't allow the first piece of the last layer on the ceiling to be a full 4x8 sheet of drywall without having the butt joint of the next piece not be on the hat track.
I may be over analyzing this ...
As far as the whole project I'm in a basement with 8ft high walls and I have properly isolated the HVAC system, light fixture, power outlets, and will be correctly treating the window and door per Rod's book.
OK - so you are 2 sheets wide - great dimension for drywall - it's meaningless how far from the wall your starters are as long as your prime is located dead center.... which should be controlling your layout.
That would be cuts on 2 sheets to fit to wall (clearance of course for seal) - and then a full sheet centered on that to lap the joint - which would leave you slightly less than 4' cuts to finish..... virtually no waste this way....
When using RSIC, should the first layer of drywall on the ceiling be sealed with backer rod and caulk to the wall framing members?
Or should it not be connected to the framing members and instead sealed to the first layer of drywall attached with RSIC to the walls?
I've seen it explained both ways on several a sites and got confused.
Rod, I apologize if this is explained properly in your book. I have your book, but i have not been able to find a clear answer on this topic in the book. It could be my 15 month old and lack of sleep ... Just sayin'
So my building supplier is no longer stocking 25 gauge drywall furring channel so he sent me 20 gauge instead. It's really hard to bend to get into the RSIC ... And in not even sure if I should be using it. The site I got the RSIC from suggests 25 gauge furring channel NOT 20 gauge.
Anyone here ever use 20 gauge furring channel or should I return it and get 25 gauge from somewhere else?
The added cost (and weight) gains you nothing if you don't need it for structural reasons..... however by the same token - you really lose nothing with the heavier gauge from an isolation point of view.
It all boils down to a cost issue - if the difference in cost is so little that it is (virtually) meaningless - then I would not worry about it - that doesn't deal with the difficulty of installation however - which is always challenging with stiffer materials.
I see no reason why you could not simply order the lighter material online and spend the extra cash you are spending on heavier gauge materials to rush the delivery along.