yes you can use blockwork everywhere. in very general terms timber is cheaper. when you start to use multiple stud walls with multiple layers of plasterboard the tables can turn. but in some countries/regions blockwork is cheap as it's standard building practice.
the pros of using blockwork are that it performs very well with lower frequencies. it's performance decreases where impact noise or flanking concerns are in play.
adding a cavity followed by drywall and insulation decreases the low frequency attenuation of the blockwork wall marginally (depending on depth) but increases the attenuation in most other frequency bands. say above 100hz, so overall you get a higher stc rating. swings and round abouts.
double stud walls perform as good as blockwork with cavity/stud walls in most frequencies, but loose out with frequencies below about 100hz in genral terms.
it all dpeends on the resonant frequency of the wall which varies depending on mass, cavity depth etc.
so it depends to some degree on cost, noise sources, structural requirments, attenuation level required etc as to which is the best way to go.
single leaf blockwork walls also perform poorly with regards to thermal control of buildings.
internally, in general terms, rooms built from blockwork require more lower frequency treatment as the lower frequencies get trapped in the space because of the high level of mass. with lightweight walls the lower frequencies pass through the wall. but again, it depends on which frequencies and the total mass of the wall.
full blockwork construction will also alter rt60 figures and tend to suffer from more pronounced flutter echos. acoustic treatment and/or angled walls are the solution there.
your costs will also vary based on your site and access to the building pad.
if i can make a susgestion, on how to start the process
*put off trying to decide what the building is made from for now*
also avoid sketchup.
go to your local art supply shop, and buy a roll of yellow trace, a scale ruler, a .6mm black pen and a .2mm black pen.
think about how you want the spaces to relate to each other and where on the site you best see them being placed.
then, using single lines draw up a layout including surrounding buildings, fences, landscape, site conditions north point etc. then place another piece of yellow trace over your layout and redesign it trying out different options.
once you've tried out multiple options based on your brief,
redraw it on yellow trace and allow 300mm thick walls throughout and work in ideal room ratios.
once that's done. write down on the drawing what level of isolation each wall needs. also include the ceiling/roof.
from there you can look up which wall makeups achieve the attenuaton figures you are chasing and get copies from the usual data/test reports the acoustic engineers in here refer to.
take that to a builder and have him cost it based on your desired wall/floor/ceiling details gotten from the acoustic test reports.
take the cost the builder says and add on 20-25% contingency.
then take that figure and double it for a pro level fitout of acoustic treatments, wiring etc. if you are going to do those things yourself then you need to work out the quantites and apply costs to those. excel is excellent for this.
if the total cost is above what you can afford then go back and redesign the building.
this doesn't take into account code compliance etc.
now download sketchup.
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yes, but they play different roles 
Dumb me.
